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Old 07-25-2012, 09:09 AM   #5476
muddyrabbit
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Location: Fugawee Land.
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Decided to get it done this morning. Here's the documentation:

First, remove filter paper:


Next, I scored the plastic with a razor knife, then folded it over for a nice clean break to remove the excess part:


Which left this:

I also used course sandpaper to remove the rest of the paper where it was glued in after this pic was taken.

Traced out the shape on a sheet of Uni filter foam with a fine tip permanent marker:


You can see you get plenty of foam for several filters in one sheet. Scissors work better than a razor knife for cutting the foam.

Note that I cut it a few millimeters over sized to make sure the frame would have enough to grab onto:


Then just line it all up and tighten the screws.
Installed in bike:


Now you have a cleanable filter. Took about 45 minutes including taking the pics. If you wanted to get really crazy you could order pre-filter foam, cut that to fit in the black cage and glue it in, then you would have a dual stage filter.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:07 AM   #5477
valvecrusher OP
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nice work

That's clean, and cheap!

To any future readers, if you choose this route, remember,
Unifilter foam is already fuel/gas/oil resistant...and your 'general foam sheet' from the fabric store/walmart is not fuel/oil/gas compatible.

(front page notation for you muddyrabbit, thank you!)

it's very similar to my approach, also...
I'm hoping the cage of the new Diahatsu filter drops into the rim of the old rubber from the original filter.

*post reserved* for VC air filter shots
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valvecrusher screwed with this post 07-25-2012 at 11:31 AM
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:08 AM   #5478
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*post reserved* for air filter fabrication
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:37 AM   #5479
muddyrabbit
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A whole sheet of that foam is only $13. I keep it around, never know when you'll need it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:45 PM   #5480
polarized
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Seems like a really quick and easy way to replace the stock filter.

How rigid is this Uni foam? Just wondering how it will hold up over time with induction trying to draw it inward.

cheers.
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #5481
muddyrabbit
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Well, since it is air filter foam I suspect it will work quite well as an air filter. Plus at $13 for enough to make 6 or 8 of them, who cares if it only lasts a year. It should last a bit longer than that though. I supose if you could back it with some screen, but i'm not concerned.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:19 AM   #5482
muzcuk
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Hey guys!

It seems that I am going to have to split the crankcase to see what's up with my transmission. This is my daily commuter so I want to be done as quickly as possible.

I am wondering what gaskets I have to replace when putting it back together.

Clutch cover gasket must be replaced
Crankcase gasket must be replaced
Head gasket was metallic and seemed reusable, what do you think?
In there anything between the cylinder and the crankcase ?
Anything for the alternator cover?

Do I have to order a whole kit or can I maybe get away with ordering the essentials?

Also, my original question is still valid : what makes it really hard to shift from N to 2, but does not affect anything else?
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:38 AM   #5483
StefanDB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mito-nx View Post
StefanDB
Look at this picture.

This is the engine side of intake manifold.
The restricted versions mainly have a smaler intake hole.
Otherwise look at the numbers on a microfiche, find the difecance between the parts of the ignition system, carburator, cilinder head...
Thank you Mito,

I found the parts eventually at a Honda dealer in Romania, they just arrived today so we're going to the garage after work to see what's what and since we're opening her up, also clean whatever needs cleaning (carb, air filter, check the coolant and look at the wiring. The parts I bought were as @fikse said: Main Jet and the intake, plus I bought a new gasket. Hope everything goes well, I'll tell you how it goes after the upgrade

I also got a XTZ750 Super Tenere which incidentally will also go under a little bit of electrical surgery today, as the charging of the battery is a little "absent"

Thanks again!
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:20 AM   #5484
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzcuk View Post
Hey guys!

It seems that I am going to have to split the crankcase to see what's up with my transmission. This is my daily commuter so I want to be done as quickly as possible.

I am wondering what gaskets I have to replace when putting it back together.

Clutch cover gasket must be replaced
Crankcase gasket must be replaced
Head gasket was metallic and seemed reusable, what do you think?
In there anything between the cylinder and the crankcase ?
Anything for the alternator cover?

Do I have to order a whole kit or can I maybe get away with ordering the essentials?

Also, my original question is still valid : what makes it really hard to shift from N to 2, but does not affect anything else?
You can't reuse the head gasket, it deforms as you torque the head. You also need to replace the base gasket between cylinder and the crankcase. There is an oil pump gasket that I'd recommend changing too, and the alternator cover has a gasket.

I have a complete NX250 transmission here if you find something you need.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:03 AM   #5485
StefanDB
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Hey guys,

Last night we changed the parts necessary for the power upgrade for the restricted model NX250 (Germany) and I was wondering if there are any specifications regarding the tuning of the carburetor. I'm thinking since there's a bigger main jet and the intake is larger, some more adjustments are in order. Do you have any suggestions regarding the settings of the carb for the new configuration?

Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:31 AM   #5486
muzcuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
You can't reuse the head gasket, it deforms as you torque the head. You also need to replace the base gasket between cylinder and the crankcase. There is an oil pump gasket that I'd recommend changing too, and the alternator cover has a gasket.

I have a complete NX250 transmission here if you find something you need.
Well, too bad I already did reuse it, twice.. Both cases were unexpected head removals due to misplaced/broken cam chain guide (plastic piece). I did not feel any difference with the reused gasket, and my coolant seems free of contaminants, but what do I know..

Complete transmission sounds good. I sincerely hope that when I open the sucker up I can SEE what the hell is wrong with it. It just happened one morning, which is ridiculous, and I keep asking the same question :

What makes it really hard to shift from N (or 1) to 2 but not affect anything else?

I honestly have no idea what might be wrong inside. All of my experience working on bikes comes from this particular one and the crankcase is still a virgin, so its a black box for me.

So, having a complete working transmission at hand, any ideas on what might be wrong? How is the N to 2 mechanism any different than all the other shifts, which do work flawlessly? N to 1 is also perfect, it is just N to 2 (or 1 to 2) that is stubborn.

I have been riding the bike like this (it does shift to 2 after a few tries) and I don't even know what kind of damage I might be doing.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:33 AM   #5487
scrambler66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanDB View Post
Hey guys,

Last night we changed the parts necessary for the power upgrade for the restricted model NX250 (Germany) and I was wondering if there are any specifications regarding the tuning of the carburetor. I'm thinking since there's a bigger main jet and the intake is larger, some more adjustments are in order. Do you have any suggestions regarding the settings of the carb for the new configuration?

Thanks!
the only difference as far as I know is the setting of the pilot screw. With the restricted model (GII type) you have to back it out 2 5/8 turns, the unrestricted modol 1 1/2 turns.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:51 AM   #5488
StefanDB
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Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post
the only difference as far as I know is the setting of the pilot screw. With the restricted model (GII type) you have to back it out 2 5/8 turns, the unrestricted modol 1 1/2 turns.

Thank you, will try that, although I'm not keen on dismantling the whole labyrinth again :) Hope it will make a difference, it felt a bit underpowered this morning...
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:52 PM   #5489
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzcuk View Post
Well, too bad I already did reuse it, twice.. Both cases were unexpected head removals due to misplaced/broken cam chain guide (plastic piece). I did not feel any difference with the reused gasket, and my coolant seems free of contaminants, but what do I know..
Ok, so you can re-use it, and it may work...but it's not wise. I guess you could re-use a condom too if you wanted to.

Your shifting problem is probably the shift drum, or maybe a shift fork. The slot in the shift drum could be worn a bit, causing the shift fork to catch as it tries to move the gears. Or, the shift fork could be bent slightly causing the same problem. I'll clean up the gears I have and if you find anything you need we can make a deal.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:18 PM   #5490
scrambler66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanDB View Post
Thank you, will try that, although I'm not keen on dismantling the whole labyrinth again :)
yeah, no chance to operate the pilot screw - not even with this special carb tool I bought



There is simply not enough space between the carb and the starter motor. Luckily the standard setting of 1 1/2 turns fitts pretty well, so you don´t have to play around
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