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Old 07-28-2012, 10:59 PM   #4756
Night Falcon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touser View Post
I have an 08 e with 20,000k,s on it and at times when i shut down the throttle it doesn't can be a little slow to react. Only does it now and then but it can be a bit hairy comming into a corner.

i havn't had it put on a diagnostic machine as it has been faultless so far and I'm a bit concerned that someone might f#ck it up.

Also I have some rally raid tanks and was wondering does it drain from them first?


any thoughts appreciated?

dave
Hi Dave,

I have experienced similer thing on my 09 a few times. In my case it was due to my hand position on the throttle. I ride with two fingers on the front break which can prevent me from fully closing off the throttle due to my fingers locking on the break lever. Only happens under breaking cos your gripping the throttle harder. My bad technicque but now I'm aware I make sure I release my grip just before hauling on the anchors!!
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:43 AM   #4757
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Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
There are a lot of things that dealers should know, but don't. It's not a good idea to disable the clutch switch on 690 and 990 bikes. Beyond safety, there is logic in the Kehin FI which cuts all fuel to the injectors if the motor is above a certain RPM, in gear, clutch not pulled and the throttle is closed rather than use the idle map. This is done for emissions and fuel economy. Of course, if the ECU cannot determine cllutch state, the bike will die. This does not happen when the bike is cold since the FI operates in non loop-back mode (fixed mapping) and the above logic is bypassed until the motor is up to normal operating temp.
I'm no expert, but if the clutch switch is disabled, the bike thinks the clutch is pulled in, hence the fact it will start in gear. So, when the bike is on the over-run, it thinks the clutch is pulled and will continue to provide fuel to keep the engine running, not cut the fuel as you say.

I'm not saying the dealer was right to do what they did, but i can see some logic to it.
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:43 AM   #4758
BK.RD.RNR
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Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
I have been thinking about getting a 690, but the last few pages have me a little leary. I do appreciate all the info you guys are sharing.
As someone who has an extremely expensive repair on his hands right now, and can't bear the thought of life without my 690. Get one! Miles of smiles and then some!
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:42 AM   #4759
MookieBlaylock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touser View Post
I have an 08 e with 20,000k,s on it and at times when i shut down the throttle it doesn't can be a little slow to react.
if it's got a vacuum leak or the "carb" boot has loosened it can cause it to hang
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:49 AM   #4760
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechie View Post
John has delivered what he promised, a new tank kit for our 690s - rally replika look a like.
Great job John!!!
http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...ture-evo2-kit/



I like the looks of that lower projector beam. I've got a light I use on my KLX I personally think is the best street legal beam pattern (50 watt Hi CRI FX Bi-Xenon projector) but am having a tough time mounting in on the 690. Is that mount for the light something you could sell seperate from the rally fairing? I just want something to hold my projector to the bike and my projector looks just like that lower one you have.

rickypanecatyl screwed with this post 07-29-2012 at 07:59 AM
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:20 AM   #4761
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garp View Post
I'm no expert, but if the clutch switch is disabled, the bike thinks the clutch is pulled in, hence the fact it will start in gear. So, when the bike is on the over-run, it thinks the clutch is pulled and will continue to provide fuel to keep the engine running, not cut the fuel as you say.

I'm not saying the dealer was right to do what they did, but i can see some logic to it.
Disanlimg the clutch switch by splicing the wires together so the bike thinks that the clutch is in all the time is nad news. The nike has a different map setting for clutch in and the bike will rum like shit if you try and ride like this...learned thos after disanling the switch on the australian rally.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #4762
Seth S
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Disanlimg the clutch switch by splicing the wires together so the bike thinks that the clutch is in all the time is nad news. The nike has a different map setting for clutch in and the bike will rum like shit if you try and ride like this...learned thos after disanling the switch on the australian rally.
All spelling errors thanks to an impossible smartphone touchscreen keyboard
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:50 AM   #4763
AWM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
All spelling errors thanks to an impossible smartphone touchscreen keyboard

Put down the phone and just drive!




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Old 07-29-2012, 09:57 AM   #4764
Maxacceleration
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
No idea on the throttle, but I use my brakes for slowing for corners. Do not leave the petcocks open on the RR tanks until you have used up some fuel from the stock tank, or it'll overflow. Normally I run 100km or so before opening the taps, or wait for the reserve light to come on before opening them up.
The RR tanks work sweet. I leave the petcocks off until I hit my low fuel light on the stock tank. I can turn on one or both tanks. Using just one tank (same with both tanks) the pumps seems to pull the fuel back enough so your (my) low fuel light goes off. Then when you are low again the low fuel light comes on again. Switch to your 3rd tank and the fuel is drawn back and your low fuel light goes off again.
Better get fuel after your 3rd low fuel light!! lol.
Nice as that way you can estimate mileage left...

Also if your RR tanks have different amounts of fuel in them, switch them both on and your fuel load will balance.
Nice for us symmetrical types.
If I know the miles in between fuel stops I don't always fill my RR tanks to the top - for keeping it light (er) in the technical stuff. Which I would estimate at 25 +-lbs of additional weight (full tanks). Not more really than a full tank bag or fender bag. Light set-up.

Other than a 'massaging' install of RR tanks, they work very well IMO.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:05 AM   #4765
alongat
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I'm sure this has been discussed to death already but can someone please help me understand why something like a 690 smr tank wouldn't work on a 690 enduro in addition to the stock rear tank? Something like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-06-09-K...#ht_2167wt_958
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:52 PM   #4766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
All spelling errors thanks to an impossible smartphone touchscreen keyboard

Seth,
For a minute there I thought you were still drunk and had fingers full of peanut butter

Glad it was "the phone's fault"

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Old 07-29-2012, 01:00 PM   #4767
Evil Invader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alongat View Post
I'm sure this has been discussed to death already but can someone please help me understand why something like a 690 smr tank wouldn't work on a 690 enduro in addition to the stock rear tank? Something like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-06-09-K...#ht_2167wt_958
Different frames for a start. And by that it needs a LOT of massage to fit....
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:42 PM   #4768
alongat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Invader View Post
Different frames for a start. And by that it needs a LOT of massage to fit....
Are you serious? Are both bikes not essentially the same apart from wheels/suspension?
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:51 PM   #4769
StevenD
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Nope, completely diffrent animals. The tank sits where our air filter box does for example.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:56 PM   #4770
Garp
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Originally Posted by alongat View Post
Are you serious? Are both bikes not essentially the same apart from wheels/suspension?
The 690 SMC and 690 Enduro are the bikes you're thinking of. That tank is off a 690SM, which is a completely different beast.
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