Let's see your Man Castle

[mellowdave]

Originally Posted by koncha

My favorite part of this picture is the fertilizer stored with the fuel.

Originally Posted by dorkpunch

In my defense... It's not normally stored there and the only two gas cans that have fuel in them are sealed. Been moving lots of stuff around and re-organizing.

And people made fun of me for asking about a hazmat locker in a residential garage...

[txagfan]

Originally Posted by Fixnfly

I've been looking for someone to build a garage for me since my construction skills are not so great and I found a local contractor who specializes in garages. He is only offering a 1 year warranty on workmanship. Does anyone else think this is a little low?

That's standard for new home construction.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[PWRCRZR]

Originally Posted by Fixnfly

I've been looking for someone to build a garage for me since my construction skills are not so great and I found a local contractor who specializes in garages. He is only offering a 1 year warranty on workmanship. Does anyone else think this is a little low?

I am a builder in Maine and I will tell you that if you have any issues with your garage they should appear within the first year.

Check his references and maybe have a look at a past job of his..

Garages are really very simple for a competent builder.

[richarddacat]

Originally Posted by PWRCRZR

I am a builder in Maine and I will tell you that if you have any issues with your garage they should appear within the first year.

Check his references and maybe have a look at a past job of his..

Garages are really very simple for a competent builder.

As a builder are you familiar with the reflective type insulations like TEKFOIL?

I thinking of using this type between my ceiling rafters and the roofing and wonder if there needs to be a air gap between the roof decking and the foil?

Thanks.

[Gerg]

I'm not a builder nor do I play one on TV but they make plywood sheeting that has foil bonded to one side now. In California if you build with it and insulate you have yourself a "Green Roof" and get a tax credit for it (I did not use it but I did insulate to R38 in the ceiling and installed an attic fan).

Gerg

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by richarddacat

As a builder are you familiar with the reflective type insulations like TEKFOIL?

I thinking of using this type between my ceiling rafters and the roofing and wonder if there needs to be a air gap between the roof decking and the foil?

Thanks.

You have to have airflow, underneath your roof sheeting, to allow for moisture removal and cooling effect. I've seen frost, on the bottom-side of sheeting, in the winter. Not having that airflow, will void some shingle warranties, depending on the company and their inspector.

[HapHazard]

Originally Posted by richarddacat

As a builder are you familiar with the reflective type insulations like TEKFOIL?

I thinking of using this type between my ceiling rafters and the roofing and wonder if there needs to be a air gap between the roof decking and the foil?

I am not a builder either, but have used Tekfoil both in my garage and in an addition to my house (under a slab, as well).
You staple it to the bottom of the rafters, not to the top near the roof decking, so there's plenty of space.
It's easy to install and works great, keeping the heat in in the winter and out in the summer. I wouldn't build anything without it.

[plateau]

Haphazard,

did you use the Tekfoil with traditional fiberglass insulation in the walls and ceilings?

[HapHazard]

In the garage, no. I just stapled it over the empty wall cavities and the bottom of the trusses. Very quick, works great and REALLY brightens up the interior.

In my addition, yes. The only thing to be aware of is that Tekfoil is a vapor barrier. If your fiberglass insulation has a vapor barrier (like Kraft paper) slash the paper with a knife so you don't have 2 vapor barriers and get trapped moisture.
Also, the foil/bubble wrap/bubble wrap/foil material I used is quite thick - if your are sheetrocking over it, use longer screws, and plenty of them.

[richarddacat]

Thanks

[Patrol]

Epoxy question. Previous owner of my new pad did the garage floor with the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Home Depot. He must have done something incorrectly because it's basically turning to dust. All of the better quality products seem to want you to have pristine cement. The Rustoleum product, while not the best quality, says you can apply it over top of an existing Rustoleum floor. If I recoated it then sealed it with an atrocious amount of clear coat would this hold up or am I just creating a shit show?

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by Patrol

Epoxy question. Previous owner of my new pad did the garage floor with the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Home Depot. He must have done something incorrectly because it's basically turning to dust. All of the better quality products seem to want you to have pristine cement. The Rustoleum product, while not the best quality, says you can apply it over top of an existing Rustoleum floor. If I recoated it then sealed it with an atrocious amount of clear coat would this hold up or am I just creating a shit show?

Do some research but when I had my ( brand new) homes garage floor epoxy coated in PA they etched the floor with a muriatic acid wash the night before the epoxy finish went on. This was on a new concrete floor. I had spilled some motor oil on it and I told them was concerned the epoxy may not adhere to the area of the oil spill so they first washed the floor with muriatic acid. Not the kind of stuff you want to have a mishap with...dangerous stuff. The floor looked good for the 12 years I lived there. Sounds like you have some stripping to do before etching the floor. You may only have to strip the loose stuff, but you gotta think the more you remove the better the floor will look and the longer it will last. Maybe rent a rotary floor scrubber with a big 3M scotch brite pad to remove all the old Rustoleum.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.html

Tech23

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by Patrol

Epoxy question. Previous owner of my new pad did the garage floor with the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Home Depot. He must have done something incorrectly because it's basically turning to dust. All of the better quality products seem to want you to have pristine cement. The Rustoleum product, while not the best quality, says you can apply it over top of an existing Rustoleum floor. If I recoated it then sealed it with an atrocious amount of clear coat would this hold up or am I just creating a shit show?

From here: http://garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20

Pretty much you need a very well prepped floor for Epoxy to stick over the long haul. Most of the professionals (they allow vendors to post what they want there) say it is best left up to a pro to get lasting results. From lurking there for a while it has become obvious that even pro work is a bit hit and miss.

The prevailing trend has moved towards Porcelain Tile as the most durable, and DYI friendly, flooring system.

Jim

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by Patrol

Epoxy question. Previous owner of my new pad did the garage floor with the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Home Depot. He must have done something incorrectly because it's basically turning to dust. All of the better quality products seem to want you to have pristine cement. The Rustoleum product, while not the best quality, says you can apply it over top of an existing Rustoleum floor. If I recoated it then sealed it with an atrocious amount of clear coat would this hold up or am I just creating a shit show?

Nearly every finish failure I've seen is a result of poor prep. As another stated, the concrete must be etched with acid, even new concrete. I always spray the acid with a pump sprayer (use a respirator), keeping it wet. I pressure wash it off. Leaving it sit 3-4 days, with fans on it, will ensure it dries. If there's moisture in the concrete, your finish product will lift. In your case, you need to chemically strip it. Those Rustoleum kits are crap, so you gotta' get it off the concrete.

I've seen numerous epoxy kits, on the market. But, I've not seen a DIY kit that'll do what a professional can with industrial grade products. This is one area where "You get what you pay for." applies.

[squiffynimrod]

Originally Posted by Patrol

Epoxy question. Previous owner of my new pad did the garage floor with the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Home Depot. He must have done something incorrectly because it's basically turning to dust. All of the better quality products seem to want you to have pristine cement. The Rustoleum product, while not the best quality, says you can apply it over top of an existing Rustoleum floor. If I recoated it then sealed it with an atrocious amount of clear coat would this hold up or am I just creating a shit show?

Can you clarify the "turning to dust" part? Could be an inadequate film build just wearing out, or UV affecting the top of an epoxy surface. Some epoxies are not UV resistant and will chalk when exposed to sunlight or reflected UV's. Will appear as a dusty surface but is actually an appearance issue and not a coating failure.