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Old 04-27-2012, 06:38 AM   #31
Ritalin Boy
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 5,200
*And* I'm getting my steering dampner issue resolved.

Thanks Claude!
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:27 AM   #32
Stroker
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Connecticut
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We're having fun now!

This bullshit is about what I'd expect from Jay. Yes "seething and laughing" is a good sumation of what I am feeling. I am not in the sidecar business, and originally built the wheels for my own rig out of neccesity. A few others wanted what I had built for my own rig for there use, so I made a few more. And even though Jay "never heard of Stroker" that did not stop him from taking $6000 plus dollars from me for one of his early Ural based "experiments", with all the features you would expect, crooked wheel, shitty welded axle, broken tilt pivot, up-side-down actuator, feeble sub-frame, etc. By the way I didn't just fall off the turnip truck, I adapted a set of 15'' magmesuin drag racing wheels to my 102 cu. in. Harley Flathead/Goulding Rocket sidecar in 1978. I find it very curious to me is the FACT that very soon after I sent one of my wheels to Daunted Motors(against my beter judgement) for one of Jay's better customers, I got a brochure in the mail showing all of Jay's "new" products. He even had the nerve to ask about how I like the items advertised. I really wanted to puke.After seeing one of these "new" wheels I didn't feel so sick, as in my mind there was no comparison. And for the record, my wheels are also made using bolted adapters and an unmodified production rim, so swapping out a damaged rim is not big deal. Changing a tire on any of these wheels is so easy that you don't have to go to any shop for help.
Claude is a great guy, who I am blessed to have as a friend. We bounce ideas off each other, hang out at bike meets, and yes, he does sell my wheels. He has some at his shop for BMW Oilheads and Harleys(Oh God, lets not start bashing the poor "Highway Tractors" and their riders).
I did not intent to join in on this thread, but felt compelled to comment. Jay if you want to square off with me be ready. You did not invent the sidecar, the wheel, or many of the features used on these machines...get over it. I still have all the emails I sent you after buying you "fine product", and will share them with the ADVRIDER Inmates if you like.

Stroker screwed with this post 04-28-2012 at 09:39 AM
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:00 PM   #33
KHJPHOTO
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Here for now; but leaving soon
Oddometer: 643
Welllllll I reckon I'm a bit late to this dog fight; but as stated before; I can second that Claude has been a gentleman, an excellent craftsman, bent over backwards to work with me on my hack. As much jawing we have done; I hope I can call him a friend too.

Don't know a thing about the other guy; but this is not the forum to wack a guy across the face with a gauntlet!
Sad indeed.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:02 AM   #34
Melrone
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Cheese Head Country
Oddometer: 914
I've kept my mouth shut during this thread.But I will say this If I knew now what I know I would not have bought a USED all ready built Dauntless rig.The guy I bought it from didn't ride it much.It was immacutate shape.But when I started to really ride it mainly on the road the mounts started to break.After buying the Wheel kit,trail reduction tree.&the heel toe shifter that first winter. I caalled for some help when the camber adjuster broke,you acted like you didn't give a damn,when the main support mounts broke all I got from you was "what do you want me to do" alittle advise would have been nice.But you acted like you didn"t give a shit.Claude didn't know ne from adam,but his advise was great help.I've had to rebuild every mount you made..You got to WAKE UP man.Antbody ask me who to goo to I push them towards Claude or Kurt at SCF..I one of those guys who put bad threads out there about your stuff..Sorry Jay I'm the type that will praise good work,but I will also tell it the other way if the work is shit...Enough said....
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:16 PM   #35
BeeMaa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: NoVA
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Not to get off topic...but

Claude - that is one sweet looking trail reducer.
Nice job.
Gonna have to take a look at that the next time we come up to visit.
Cheers.
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:41 PM   #36
Grotmeyer
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Pennsylvania
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Claude's proven his true self time and time again through all customer dealings; even during this "adversity", he's let his integrity, honesty, and reputation speak for him. Thank you Claude for being you....
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:58 PM   #37
claude OP
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Joined: Mar 2002
Location: Middleburg, Pa. (Snyder County)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claude View Post
Wanted to let all of you here know that we are now offereing a CNC machined billet aluminum trail reducer for the R1200GS or GSA bikes here at C Stanley Motorsports Inc. This design is quite beefy and provides much easlier steering on these bikes. Stock brake lines etc can be used. The unit is provided with it's own bolts for the pinch blocks on the fork tubes and also for the front fender attachement. The design will not lose ground clearance like some others on the market have in the past. Introductory price is $800 which includes shipping with in the lower 48 states.
With that being said we are also thinking of doing a similar trail reducer for the 1150 series of GS machines.. $750.
If you are interested in the 1150 version let us know. Email : Claude@freedomsidecars.com

To follow up on the orginal post above we now have the 1150GS trail reducers in stock. Those who have them are liking them. I finally got one on my own 1150GS/ Outback sidecar rig today. Steering is very easy but you can still 'feel the road' so to speak.
Over the winter we will be building two leading link setups for two different 1200GS outfits. If anyone is intertested feel free to call. They will have a car tire on them and floating calipers.
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http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...rsandTrailers/

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Old 08-06-2012, 07:24 PM   #38
Boondox
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: North Central Vermont
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I have 8k miles on the rig since Claude made this (and other) mods to my GSA/Hannigan. To say it has enhanced my spirited riding is a bit of an understatement! It has made steering not effortless, but easy enough that with Barley as ballast I can really haul ass thru twisties.

This was illustrated on the way back from the MOA Rally in Missouri last month. We were on some rural sweepers in Ohio's Amish country when I noticed a Harley rider coming up fast behind us. The sight bumped me out of sightseeing mode and into booking mode. We quickly lost him in the sweepers. Half an hour later we came to a small town with a really nice village green, and pulled over for a hydration break under the shade trees.

I was sitting there with my dog a few minutes later when the Harley pulled up next to our rig, then spotted us in the shade. "Holy shit!" he shouted with a big grin. "You ride the f*ck out of that rig!"

Made me all warm and fuzzy inside.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:06 AM   #39
BeeMaa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: NoVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claude View Post
To follow up on the orginal post above we now have the 1150GS trail reducers in stock. Those who have them are liking them. I finally got one on my own 1150GS/ Outback sidecar rig today. Steering is very easy but you can still 'feel the road' so to speak.
Over the winter we will be building two leading link setups for two different 1200GS outfits. If anyone is intertested feel free to call. They will have a car tire on them and floating calipers.
Gonna want some pics/drawings/whatever you have of this set up.
Definitely interested and subscribed.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:20 AM   #40
Agent Wayward
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: UK
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Good work Claude, sorry to see this sort of thing on here, Jay has done his company no favours with this. It's about as ridiculous as Triumph complaining that Suzuki use telescopic forks. Claude's design is clearly no copy of Jay's, as any right thinking person can see.
Those who live in glass houses should not throw stones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boondox View Post
pulled over for a hydration break under the shade trees.
We do that over here too, we call it "a drink".
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:18 PM   #41
claude OP
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Joined: Mar 2002
Location: Middleburg, Pa. (Snyder County)
Oddometer: 3,558
We have done some upgrades on our trail reducer since last posting here. The design is still the same as far as dimensions go though.
Since there was an incident reported here related to what we felt was a ball loosening up on another manufacturers product which I feel was no fault of his we just decided to go the extra mile to produce what we feel is a better, even though not needed, upgrade to our product.
Note that I even the other manufacturer to say that I felt it was not the fault of his product that caused to incident for what that is worth.
Anyhow,,,,,,,
OUR new version has the same layout as our previous one but has a steel insert that the ball will thread into so it is no longer a steel to aluminum connection. We have also gone to 7075 aluminum instead of 6061 aluminum. Yes, it is a little more costly to produce but we are offering it at the same price as our earlier version. This is, as before, a CNC machined part built to OUR specifications.
Hopefully the picture below will make sense.
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Founder: Internet Sidecar Owners Klub at SCT
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SCT/

President: C Stanley Motorsports Inc.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...rsandTrailers/

http://freedomsidecars.com/
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:40 AM   #42
Chinookmark
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: New Hartford, CT
Oddometer: 211
I recently installed Claude's trail reducer on my 1150GS/Ural rig, and it made a HUGE difference. It still drives like a drunk atv, but now it's easy to go with the flow and gently guide it between the lines, instead of having to muscle it down the road. I hate to be cliche', but it's like someone fixed the power steering.

The reducer is a nicely machined piece. Installation was straightforward -easy for anyone that has removed a set of forks before. The Clymer manual helped a lot though.

I used a brand new ball joint ($135 from Max BMW), rather than risk damaging the original removing it. Make sure to replace the top nut on the ball joint-- that's a one time use part.

Now to just save up for some Stroker wheels...
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