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Old 08-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #4906
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SigPig View Post
I have just over 5000 kms on my 2010 690 SMC. The only performance mod was a Wings silencer and an Akra remap which was at around 1500 kms. Everything was working perfectly until I rolled 5k. It's only been ridden on the street with an occasional gravel/dirt road. While I may think I ride it hard sometimes I am most likely not pushing this bike anywhere near it's potential. I've been deployed every summer since I purchased it so it's been in storage more than on the road.

My 690's fuel pump was failing intermittently and then stopped working all together. When replaced, the new pump fired up and the bike started. During the initialization cycle the bike died after only two minutes of idling. It will no longer start. There is a clicking noise from under the air box somewhere. The fuel pump still hums every time now where as the old one would not turn on at all so that is no longer the issue. It seems to have come up with a new problem now.

I've been skimming through this thread to find similar issues. Am I correct in assuming that the next thing to check would be the Regulator/Rectifier? Or is there something more simple that I could check next?

No, check the main relay ...right next to the battery. The rectifier wont cause the bike not to start
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:21 PM   #4907
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SigPig View Post
I have just over 5000 kms on my 2010 690 SMC. The only performance mod was a Wings silencer and an Akra remap which was at around 1500 kms. Everything was working perfectly until I rolled 5k. It's only been ridden on the street with an occasional gravel/dirt road. While I may think I ride it hard sometimes I am most likely not pushing this bike anywhere near it's potential. I've been deployed every summer since I purchased it so it's been in storage more than on the road.

My 690's fuel pump was failing intermittently and then stopped working all together. When replaced, the new pump fired up and the bike started. During the initialization cycle the bike died after only two minutes of idling. It will no longer start. There is a clicking noise from under the air box somewhere. The fuel pump still hums every time now where as the old one would not turn on at all so that is no longer the issue. It seems to have come up with a new problem now.

I've been skimming through this thread to find similar issues. Am I correct in assuming that the next thing to check would be the Regulator/Rectifier? Or is there something more simple that I could check next?
Not the R/R. That should probably be the last place for you to look.

You need the Big three. Air, Fuel & Spark

Check that you are first getting fuel at the fuel injector. Your hose might have come off inside the tank or something simple like that.

If you are getting fuel.

Next, see if you are getting a spark by pulling the spark plug and turning it over.

If both of those are good it becomes harder.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:35 PM   #4908
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I will start with those. Thanks guys.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:05 PM   #4909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advrider58 View Post
Good stuff! The wire on my bike has plenty of slack so is under no "pulling" stress. It hangs straight down from the sensor then over to a cable tie at the frame.

Did you splice in the wire for extra length or as a larger gauge wire to resist a break?

Mine keeps breaking right at the connector, which is making it very difficult to reuse it.
I disassembled the plug and used heavier and longer wire, re-crimping and soldering and then sealed the plug and wires with shrink wrap. No problem since.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #4910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel View Post
Why does everyone start throwing parts (like replacing fuel pumps) as soon as they have any problem. Whatever happened to doing diagnostics, like checking fuel pressure, ohmning the primary coils, source coils... reading fault codes, checking kick stand switches... etc... to determine what the problem actually is, before buying parts??? Seems like anytime someone's 690 has a hiccup they put a new fuel pump in it.
No codes, kick stand eliminator. When the pump doesn't prime, there is no fuel pressure. When it primes it starts and runs great. It has never failed to prime after waiting a variable length of time. My problem is so intermittent (sometimes nearly a thousand miles between occurrences) that I have not yet changed the fuel pump. The only part I've replaced was the filter which was quite dirty. A frustrating problem. Mine has always run like gangbusters just before and after. It has occurred in 100+ and high 30's temperatures.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:56 AM   #4911
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Headbutted a tree yesterday.. tree won . Parts is parts.

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Old 08-07-2012, 06:50 AM   #4912
Seth S
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Been there done that. Trail tech was kind enough to sell me a new light frame for a reasonable price
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:44 AM   #4913
Barman
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Originally Posted by Xmoto View Post
Headbutted a tree yesterday.. tree won . Parts is parts.


You could put the stock mask back on while you're waiting for parts.
Should be in with the spare bits that went with the bike.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:46 AM   #4914
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Ordered new light frame from trail tech, the p/n in 3832-00-frame if anyone needs it.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:49 AM   #4915
Roadracer_Al
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I agree with your assessment that vibration on an unsupported wire is the culprit. It is poor engineering to allow a wire to exit, unsupported, via a sharp-cornered hole. That will cause the wire to fatigue and break 100% of the time over the long run.

The solution is to add a stress relief rubber. It doesn't have to be anything fancy like a factory-made part. It can be a long, skinny cone of RTV or Shoe Goo (i.e. some type of goop that sets rubbery, not hard... i.e. no JB Weld!) that is built up from the connector outward to the wire. Make it the full diameter of the connector -at- the connector, and about 1" long, tapering down to the wire size. Just something that makes it impossible to kink the wire as it flexes.

a

Quote:
Originally Posted by advrider58 View Post
While I've added shrink wrap and cable ties to be sure the stress on the wire leading into the connector is minimum, I continue to break the wire regularly. It appears to be from vibration fatigue. I really could use a new connector to repair this again. Anyone know of a good source (other than a visit to the 100 mile away KTM dealer)?
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #4916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
No, check the main relay ...right next to the battery. The rectifier wont cause the bike not to start
Also check all earths are good. If coil earth is bad, starter will turn over and you'll have no hint of ignition. Checking relay a good place to start if you keep hearing a clicking sound
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #4917
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Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
Also check all earths are good. If coil earth is bad, starter will turn over and you'll have no hint of ignition. Checking relay a good place to start if you keep hearing a clicking sound
The fuel pump prime issue I have is likely not a grounding issue as the bike has always cranked strongly. It will not start without the fuel pump prime. No point even trying to start it without the prime; just runs down the battery. As soon as you can hear the fuel pump prime sequence, however, the bike always starts and runs normally.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:30 PM   #4918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezwindeSpoed View Post
What i think that happend is that a thooth broke and went in between the transmission shafts and bent them. So this is not the cause but the result. I did not know and just replaced all damaged transmission gears. After 200km, the transmission was f#cked again. Then I deceided to bring the engine to the dealer and let him fix the problem. When he rebuilded the thing he found out that the gearbox was not running smoothly and brought the shafts to a machine work shop were the measured the staightness.

KTM paid 30% of the cost of the parts of the first rebuild. The second rebuild I had to pay because KTM said they did not have the garantee I rebuild it well. My dealer gave me a lot of discount so fair enough.

My bike I from Dec 2008 (690 R model 2009) and what I believe is that the dakar bike suffered from another problem.

If you have any questions about the rebuild feel free to ask.
Thanks Gez. I have the engine out, and am going to see what a dealer has to say - in the meantime, gotta move tomorrow so this ass-pain with the Katoom will have to wait.

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Old 08-07-2012, 04:29 PM   #4919
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Talking Air Box Temperature Sensor Connector

Good advice. Thanks all! As of last night, it's fixed.

Rather than re-soldering to the "stub" wire exiting the connector, I took the connector completely apart this time right down to pulling the pins from the plug. I removed the stock wires and replaced them with eight inch leads of 14 gauge that I soldered to the pins. No relying on crimp connections. After reassembling the connector, I soldered the leads into the wire harness. Both leads are packaged together into shrink wrap from the connector to the wire harness, and I added a second outer layer of shrink wrap enclosing the wires and the entire end of the connector at the exit point.

Hopefully I've got it all covered now. Larger gauge wires, strain relief and enough mass to resist any vibration fatigue. All the wires are also zip tied to the frame rails with just enough slack for a natural unstressed bend.

I still would like to replace the connector (it's well worn now from all the wire replacements and rework), so if anyone finds a replacement source, please share.

Thanks again--let's ride!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
I agree with your assessment that vibration on an unsupported wire is the culprit. It is poor engineering to allow a wire to exit, unsupported, via a sharp-cornered hole. That will cause the wire to fatigue and break 100% of the time over the long run.

The solution is to add a stress relief rubber. It doesn't have to be anything fancy like a factory-made part. It can be a long, skinny cone of RTV or Shoe Goo (i.e. some type of goop that sets rubbery, not hard... i.e. no JB Weld!) that is built up from the connector outward to the wire. Make it the full diameter of the connector -at- the connector, and about 1" long, tapering down to the wire size. Just something that makes it impossible to kink the wire as it flexes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
I disassembled the plug and used heavier and longer wire, re-crimping and soldering and then sealed the plug and wires with shrink wrap. No problem since.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:36 PM   #4920
Michelangelo
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Can someone recommend a rear shock collar spanner wrench for the 2008 690E? I bought an Enduro Engineering one (for sale in Flea Market for $25) that turned out to be only for the single collar shocks. I'm told I need a hinged one to work on the 690's shock. Any recommendations?
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