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Old 08-01-2012, 10:45 AM   #16
outofcontrol OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcjames.yu View Post
Hi duke, it looks yummy...
but all I suggest is trying "Gunk" or equivalent product spraying it through your carburetor, it'll be better boiling it in water. Good luck.
Actually, Gunk was the brand of carb cleaner I was using. I decided to boil it when I couldn't get a good stream of carb cleaner to come out the pilot jet passage way in the venturi. It was bleeding out, but not streaming. After the boiling, it shot out.

Rode to work today. I had to adjust the idle down, and it's much smoother. I'm assuming my complete cleaning and boiling had something to do with that.

I can't tell if there's a faint smell of gas or not. I think my nose is still ineffective from the cleaning session. Or there's some leftover cleaner/gas that still hasn't evaporated.

No results on mpg yet.

-Kevin
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:24 PM   #17
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I think the answer to your problem is likely to be that exhaust system. These things love the stock exhaust pipes for over all performance. I tinkered with different exhausts on mine with mostly negative results and all of them greatly reduced mileage. Even so, mine only gets around 60mpg. My 250 Elite does better.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by baloneyskin daddy View Post
I think the answer to your problem is likely to be that exhaust system. These things love the stock exhaust pipes for over all performance. I tinkered with different exhausts on mine with mostly negative results and all of them greatly reduced mileage. Even so, mine only gets around 60mpg. My 250 Elite does better.
You must have seen the other thread I had about the exhaust. I ended up finding a stock exhaust for $40 on craigslist. And as a matter of fact, I just sold that straight pipe on eBay for $70. (I was going to throw it away). I never even rode it with that nasty straight pipe except for a pre-purchase test ride, no offense to the battle scooter crowd.

I had a co-worker smell my bike at lunch to see if he could smell gas and he smelled nothing.

So three tests after doing carb work:
1. It runs.
2. it doesn't leak fuel (no smell)
3. TBD- 70+mpg

I wish I had time to just take her for a 100 mile ride, but I want to keep the testing mode the same; Commuting.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:52 PM   #19
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The power that goes to the bystarter comes directly from the stator. Check all the connections, clean everything. You can check for current when the engine is running, but not with just the key on.

The connections at the starter solenoid are also crucial to happy motoring, and if they are dirty the charging circuit won't function right, leading to dying batteries and some engine misses. Finally, multiple ground lines come together to a common stud on the frame below the nose of the seat, down low. If you find it, clean those contacts, too.

I like 32 pounds in the rear tire, 26-28 in front.

Enjoy!
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:35 PM   #20
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Good stuff! Thanks.

Bystarter works.

Not only did I clean the connections, but I slathered dialectic grease on them for the future. Charging system works well. I didn't check any body grounds, that's a great idea, and a common simple failure missed all the time.

34 rear, 24 front (by memory) Brand new Michelins, but I replaced the valves with 90 deg ones and set the pressure.

While I was in there this last time I also greased all the squeaky suspension joints. Now that the bike is so so quiet, I feel this very slight vibration when I'm off the gas. Feels like it's coming from the CVT, but it's not a familiar feeling to me. (this is my first CVT bike).

My idle is still too high after riding around today. I think I had some pilot jet issues and it was masked by too high of a idle setting and running off other circuits.

Thanks for the ideas!!!

-Kevin
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:30 AM   #21
Süsser Tod
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My 175cc Chinese scooter averages 43mpg, the absolute best tank was 54mpg. Do you still want a Chinese carb? I think the biggest bang for the buck mod on GY6 scoots is a new carb, replacing that Chinese junk carb with a good carb does wonders for them.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:07 PM   #22
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Filled up today finally: 1.68g, 93miles = 55.4mpg.

Moving on now.
Checked compression: 178psi. spec was 175-185, so OK there. ( Edit: spec is 184 +/- 28psi )

When I pulled the plug I noticed that it was black and sooty. I cleaned it off, and suck it back in and started the scooter; instantly sooty again. Tell me I'm not crazy, and this is a rich running plug indication.
So what can cause rich running?
  1. clogged air jets - verified clear
  2. faulty float valve - brand new and tested
  3. float level too high - brand new float, verified level
  4. auto bystarter faulty - bench tested OK.???
  5. dirty air cleaner - New and checked whole airbox for blockage


I'm a little confused: I drilled out the idle mixture screw to clean it, and set to 1-3/8 turns out when I boiled the carb. So after I saw that the plug was so sooty, I started playing with the mixture screw. Scooter ran best with it screwed all the way in tight??? I've always thought that if it runs best < 1 turn out, go with a smaller pilot jet as it's rich. Runs best > 2 turns out, go to a larger pilot as it's lean. So the air mixture screw is also telling me I'm rich. But I have stock everything; stock jets, stock pipe, stock air box, I'm at 250' elevation. (Sometimes just writing these posts out helps me to figure out WTF I'm talking about, but I'l love any corroboration)
Can I assume that there's another fuel circuit that's making this run rich at idle? Like the bystarter?
I guess I'm going to take this carb off for the 5th time and do more testing on the auto bystarter while it's connected to the carb like the manual says to do.

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outofcontrol screwed with this post 08-10-2012 at 02:33 PM
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:23 PM   #23
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Is the plug correct for the engine?
Is thermostat installed and working porperly?
Does ex pipe flow good?

I don't know, I'm thinking out loud.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:34 PM   #24
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http://www.exriders.com/archive/topic/229923-1.html
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayasakiman View Post
Is the plug correct for the engine?
Is thermostat installed and working porperly?
Does ex pipe flow good?

I don't know, I'm thinking out loud.
Great questions, and thanks for the ideas.

Plug is NGK DPR7EA-9 which is correct, and gap is correct. (looks newer than stock, but no idea of age).
Temp comes up after 5-10 min run time and then levels out. (only verified by gauge on dash).
Exhaust pipe: I don't really have a way to bench test this, but WFO performance is good. (I hit indicated 70mph)

So when I cold start this scooter, it idles high for about 60-90 seconds, then settles down into a nice idle. It just seems like the bystarter is working. I think I'm also going to buy a new main jet, main jet needle, and pilot jet. They look like they're 25 years old, so I'm assuming they're stock, but there's no #s on them. Who knows, but those are cheap parts. I might just buy a new bystarter as well, but I absolutely just hate buying parts on a whim. I like to prove they're faulty first.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:35 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by hexnut View Post
That's the directions that I'm accustomed to. The CH150 idle mixture screw modulates fuel delivery right? not air?

My scooter wouldn't die if I screwed the pilot/idle screw in all the way. Maybe I just have too big of a pilot jet? OR, maybe someone in years past cleaned it with a tool instead of fluid and reamed it out a little?

Most of the problems I find with fine machinery are user error. I shouldn't discount 24yrs of exposure to ill hands.
I also went out on some high speed WOT runs on the freeway today and she definitely was intermittently missing at 60+ mph. I'm going to re-check all my electrical connections in the ignition. Maybe a new CDI is in my future.

-Kevin
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:25 AM   #27
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I bought a new Iridium plug today and threw it in. Took a quick run 5 miles and plug was not sooty, and a nice brown.
With the last plug is was sooty in 30 seconds.

If this pushes me up over 70mpg and solves my problems.... $8 plug and 5 min of work???

It'll take me another week to find out driving 12 miles a day to work and back.

-Kevin
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:03 AM   #28
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I was wondering...

Are you sure it is even possible to achieve 70mpg in your commute? I mean, there are several factors involved that will take their toll on MPG even if the scooter is running perfectly. I know for a fact that I will never be able to achieve 70mpg on my AN125 because my commute is on very hilly terrain with lot's of stop and go, I'll be happy if I can average 60mpg.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:29 AM   #29
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The last time I checked my Kymco S 250 I got 70 MPG. That was around town. stop and go and 30 to 45 MPH. That was also being easy on the take off.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:57 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Süsser Tod View Post
I was wondering... Are you sure it is even possible to achieve 70mpg in your commute?
No, not sure.

I have a very hilly, stop and go commute.

But I don't think I have a perfectly running machine. I had a leaky petcock and float valve, and somehow a rich fuel mixture.
If I can verify it's running perfectly, and I still don't hit 70mpg, then my quest is over I guess.

I saw reports of 70-90mpg depending on the owner's right wrist, on a finely tuned machine. That's my goal.

Once I get it running as good as I can, I'll take her out for a whole tank at 45-50mph on flat terrain and see what happens.

I did crack 100 miles for this tank today. (that's a first) I'll fill up again today and report in.

-Kevin
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