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Old 08-14-2012, 03:54 AM   #12796
Canadian FJR
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Oddometer: 123
Valve Specs

"The valve gaps are listed in the factory workshop manual:

Intake: 0.05 - 0.10mm (0.002 - 0.004 inches)

Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.22mm (0.007 - 0.009 inches) "


Thanks Greg.


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Old 08-14-2012, 04:58 AM   #12797
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadChap View Post
...Sweet Cheeks. SweetCheeks for extra fuel or water, plus you'll solve the miserable seat problem in one fell swoop. Costs about $25
Amen, brother. Sweet Cheeks is awesome! A couple of weeks ago I rode 730+ pavement miles in one day from Jackpot, Nevada to Cave Creek, Arizona. There was plenty of heat and plenty of tired, but my butt never complained. I don't use it in the dirt, but it is fantastic burning up pavement miles getting to events.

http://cycle-analyst.com/sweetcheeks.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-14-2012, 03:04 PM   #12798
DualDog
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Location: Galesburg, IL
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Noob with oil question

I just bought a 1993 DR350S.

Got it home and oil leaking from around plug at botom of motor. Not much but enough to leave small oil area.

After about 3 days I finally get around to taking it for a ride. Check oil before the ride with bike in upright position. No oil. I have an oil quart bottle with about 26 oz of oil in it. Put in about 6 oz. Nothing on stick. Put in about 6 more oz. nothing on stick. Pour remainder of oil in. Now oil is completely up the dip stick way above correct limits. Take drain plug out of bottom of engine and let a little drain out. This plug has a washer on it and a bunch of blue engine gasket type sealant around it. Not going down of stick. Do this three times and nothing going down on stick. Drain a little out of frame bolt and it does down about half way on stick but still way above full mark. Start engine and let run for about 30 seconds. It is now showing about the high mark in the correct limits on the stick. Let it run another minute and wait about a minute and check again. Still within correct range. Go for a couple mile ride and still within correct limits.

Questions:
I have read on line about how to do an oil change removing the frame plug and the engine plug. Also states to remove filter. Then is says something about removing a tube and checking a strainer. Not sure what this tube or strainer is or where it is located?

I am 50 miles from a dealer. Does anybody know of a non Suzuki Oil Filter that can be bought at an auto store? I called a couple of my local stores and they say they can get a filter for a DR250 but their charts or parts do not even list the DR350.

What kind of drain plug gasket/seal is used on this? Does anybody know of diameter or thickness of this washer/seal? And its material it is made out of.

Alos, does the engine always need to be ran a little for the engine on the dipstick to go down to correct level?

Sorry for the long post an so many questions but want to do this right and not mess anything up here.

I will probably end up buying a Clymer Repair manual with pictures and explanations but want to get this thing correct in the meantime.
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:04 PM   #12799
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualDog View Post
Questions:
I have read on line about how to do an oil change removing the frame plug and the engine plug. Also states to remove filter. Then is says something about removing a tube and checking a strainer. Not sure what this tube or strainer is or where it is located?
Strainer is behind the bottom frame hose fitting (i.e. you have to remove the hose and unscrew the fitting.) I would only do that once in a while. Certainly not every oil change.

Quote:
I am 50 miles from a dealer. Does anybody know of a non Suzuki Oil Filter that can be bought at an auto store? I called a couple of my local stores and they say they can get a filter for a DR250 but their charts or parts do not even list the DR350.
You can buy a 3-pack of filters for a few bucks on eBay, Amazon, or many other places on-line.

Quote:
What kind of drain plug gasket/seal is used on this? Does anybody know of diameter or thickness of this washer/seal? And its material it is made out of.
It is a crushable copper or aluminium washer. You can buy them at just about any auto suppliers or Harbor Freight or... Just don't let them try to look it up by make and model.

I'd be a little concerned at the bodge used to make the seal by the previous owner. That kind of maintenance and repair ethic can have many other symptoms that may not become apparent for some time. I'd check the valves fairly soon and replace the oil sealing washers for the cam cover while you're at it.

Quote:
Alos, does the engine always need to be ran a little for the engine on the dipstick to go down to correct level?
As you discovered, yes, the engine needs to be run for a bit to get the correct level in the frame tank. The DR has two oil pumps, one to pump oil round the engine and another to return all the oil from the engine to the tank. Theoretically, the sump should be almost empty (dry sump) during normal operation. When the bike is parked for a while, oil can drain down to the sump, making the level in the tank lower and giving the uninitiated the impression that there is not enough oil - but you already discovered that!

Quote:
Sorry for the long post an so many questions but want to do this right and not mess anything up here.

I will probably end up buying a Clymer Repair manual with pictures and explanations but want to get this thing correct in the meantime.
Good plan!
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January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:09 PM   #12800
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by DualDog View Post
I just bought a 1993 DR350S.

Got it home and oil leaking from around plug at botom of motor. Not much but enough to leave small oil area.

After about 3 days I finally get around to taking it for a ride. Check oil before the ride with bike in upright position. No oil. I have an oil quart bottle with about 26 oz of oil in it. Put in about 6 oz. Nothing on stick. Put in about 6 more oz. nothing on stick. Pour remainder of oil in. Now oil is completely up the dip stick way above correct limits. Take drain plug out of bottom of engine and let a little drain out. This plug has a washer on it and a bunch of blue engine gasket type sealant around it. Not going down of stick. Do this three times and nothing going down on stick. Drain a little out of frame bolt and it does down about half way on stick but still way above full mark. Start engine and let run for about 30 seconds. It is now showing about the high mark in the correct limits on the stick. Let it run another minute and wait about a minute and check again. Still within correct range. Go for a couple mile ride and still within correct limits.

Questions:
I have read on line about how to do an oil change removing the frame plug and the engine plug. Also states to remove filter. Then is says something about removing a tube and checking a strainer. Not sure what this tube or strainer is or where it is located?

I am 50 miles from a dealer. Does anybody know of a non Suzuki Oil Filter that can be bought at an auto store? I called a couple of my local stores and they say they can get a filter for a DR250 but their charts or parts do not even list the DR350.

What kind of drain plug gasket/seal is used on this? Does anybody know of diameter or thickness of this washer/seal? And its material it is made out of.

Alos, does the engine always need to be ran a little for the engine on the dipstick to go down to correct level?

Sorry for the long post an so many questions but want to do this right and not mess anything up here.

I will probably end up buying a Clymer Repair manual with pictures and explanations but want to get this thing correct in the meantime.
Hi DualDog,

A DR250 oil filter should be the same as a 350 oil filter. I just buy the generic replacements from Rocky Mountain ATV MC.

Indeed, the dry sump engine will become a wet sump engine if left set for very long. Proper checking can only be done once the engine oil has been pumped back up into the frame. The factory workshop manual provides the details on timing, but I forget all that. Instead, I always check oil after each ride when the engine is warm. I park the bike, take off my helmet, grab a rag, and check the oil (top off if necessary at that time). To me, that is the easiest and most accurate method. Good on you for checking, though. Low engine oil will toast the top end on these machines (and it doesn't have to happen).

As for the drain plug washer, any generic one will get you by. Just bring your plug to the auto parts store and pick one out. Alternatively grab one from the OEM section of your favorite supplier (I typically use Rocky Mountain or ThumperTalk)

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:10 PM   #12801
DualDog
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Location: Galesburg, IL
Oddometer: 150
Thanks for the replies

The replies really help out so much.

I guess I am going to get the reapir manual very soon in order to get the procedure to check the valves and replace those oil sealing cam washers.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #12802
mustangwagz
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On the note of windshields/screens, that slipstreamer company has alot of cool looking windshields that i feel would fit the DR350 rather nicely. I think i'm going to purchase the universal one, as it is rather tall and i like the idea of gettin the turbulance UP over my big ole funny shapped head....rather than whipping it around like a weather balloon. lol They do have an intersting "Fairing" looking style windshiled that i bet would fit but i'd like to see it on our style of bike before purchasing it just to see how it looks for sure. however, it is tempting to buy it and do a write up on it. lol Thanks Kobukan for giving me the info on the site, i'm sure before to long ill have one on the front of my ole girl!


ANOTHER question for yinz guru's out there, Does a more powerful charging system exist for the DR350? I was contemplating on making this bike my "Cold weather" bike as well, and i was kickin around the idea of some additional power sources for possible heating devices? For example, heated grips? or maybe a heated coat? Was curious if one existed so that a coat, per say, could be plugged in without CONSTANTLY draining the battery and straining the alternator system.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:25 PM   #12803
_CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadChap View Post
Here are just my opinions on the rack vs. no rack question.

just thought I'd put in my thoughts. YMMV.
I guess we'll see how much my mileage varies.

Just received delivery of some Moose Racing Expedition bags ($99.00). Plan to do the cutting board rack / side bag deal (~$25.00), and use the top surface for mounting of either a duffel bag or a cooler. The cooler setup will be for local fishing trips.

Something like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...27&postcount=4

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Old 08-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #12804
auto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Yep, and all 903 pages of the Transalp Mod thread. I'm retired.
Can't wait till I retire and get to read the entire thread.Anyway,the problem was the needle had popped out of the slide and was not going into the jet.This caused the over rich mixtuire.Back to starting right up.Thanks for your imput.
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:28 AM   #12805
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
On the note of windshields/screens, that slipstreamer company has alot of cool looking windshields that i feel would fit the DR350 rather nicely. I think i'm going to purchase the universal one, as it is rather tall and i like the idea of gettin the turbulance UP over my big ole funny shapped head....rather than whipping it around like a weather balloon.
I know a lot of people like the slip streamer. Personally, I was unable to find a spot on my DR350 that did not produce buffeting. I took it off and have much preferred riding in clean air sans windshield (plus I don't have to worry about smacking the shield when I crash in the dirt! :>). I may have endured the buffeting if I lived in a cold weather place. But, I don't - so I sold it to another inmate.

Other people are obviously pleased with their set up and they may have it angled differently, fit a different model, etc. I have a long torso and that really puts a heavy burden on a windshield.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:57 AM   #12806
BigBob
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Found a new instrument cluster to replace the beat up one on my wife's 1995 DR350.

How the hell do I get the key switch out? Parts fiche is no help.



Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:47 AM   #12807
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBob View Post
Found a new instrument cluster to replace the beat up one on my wife's 1995 DR350.

How the hell do I get the key switch out? Parts fiche is no help.



Thanks!
Flip the unit over. The key switch is round and fits into the circular portion of the cluster via a couple of locking tabs. Take a small screw driver or pick and pry the locking tabs in while pushing the unit out (up is out, if the cluster is mounted).
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MrPulldown screwed with this post 08-15-2012 at 09:58 AM
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:57 AM   #12808
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Amen, brother. Sweet Cheeks is awesome! A couple of weeks ago I rode 730+ pavement miles in one day from Jackpot, Nevada to Cave Creek, Arizona. There was plenty of heat and plenty of tired, but my butt never complained. I don't use it in the dirt, but it is fantastic burning up pavement miles getting to events.

http://cycle-analyst.com/sweetcheeks.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
GOt more info. THe link is ok but pics are hard to see (wont upsize). What size did you get for the DR350. Think that I woudl fill the bottles with gas for extended range!!
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:32 AM   #12809
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
GOt more info. THe link is ok but pics are hard to see (wont upsize). What size did you get for the DR350. Think that I woudl fill the bottles with gas for extended range!!
Here is an updated link, seems they just changed:
http://cycle-analyst.com/sweetcheeks

I bought the one that accepts 2 liter bottles (it was the only style available at the time). I've only ever used water, though I think fuel might work (I've never tried). I bought size 7 and I think it works very well with my seat. Photo below of my DR350 loaded up for the initial pavement ride up to Mexican Hat, Utah were we began the UTBDR (and I changed tires to start out nice and fresh). That is as clean as my DR350 ever gets. Almost always it is covered in dust and dirt and mud remnants :> :> :>

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...es/utbdr_1.jpg

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:32 PM   #12810
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _CJ View Post
I guess we'll see how much my mileage varies.

Just received delivery of some Moose Racing Expedition bags ($99.00). Plan to do the cutting board rack / side bag deal (~$25.00), and use the top surface for mounting of either a duffel bag or a cooler. The cooler setup will be for local fishing trips.

Something like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...27&postcount=4

You can buy this stuff in 4 X 8 ft sheets, or cut to size. http://www.interstateplastics.com/Na...calculate.y=24 I've been making
skid plates out of it sense the "70s.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=2806
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