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Old 08-10-2012, 11:49 AM   #3016
Wadester
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Originally Posted by JAFO View Post
So yeah, that's gonna be fun having it stored in my garage...
It's not that bad. Just be sure to keep that 3rd leg of the triangle (heat/ignition) under control. Make sure fittings are clean and dry (no oils!) when connecting. And always open valves slooooooowly to reduce the chance of particle impact ignition. It's not like the old days when you were making acetylene by dropping calcium carbide into water in a big sealed tank (an exothermic reaction that creates a gas that can detonate/explode).
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:21 PM   #3017
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Honestly, the heat is the biggest concern. This will be in an exterior, unattached garage. In South Cackalacki. 100 degrees in the shade during the summer...
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #3018
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What happened here





Welding Class....Welded an aluminum box using stainless steel rod...

Why? Did you grab the wrong TIG rod? That looks like poop.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #3019
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Honestly, the heat is the biggest concern. This will be in an exterior, unattached garage. In South Cackalacki. 100 degrees in the shade during the summer...
i have cut outside all day for weeks on end in direct sunlight and never had a problem. People use torch sets in much hotter places then your backyard shed like the ship yards in NC/SC/VA. Don’t worry about it people on the internet told you it was safe.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:25 AM   #3020
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Well hello, then I know it is true...

Hey ya'll watch this... I saw it on the Internet..... :-)

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:31 PM   #3021
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From my dim memory of engineering class gas storage pressure vessels usually have a design temperature of 50C/120F, then on top of that there are all sorts of other safety factors. Ask your gas supplier.

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:48 PM   #3022
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i have cut outside all day for weeks on end in direct sunlight and never had a problem. People use torch sets in much hotter places then your backyard shed like the ship yards in NC/SC/VA. Don’t worry about it people on the internet told you it was safe.
Or drive by your local gas supply in the middle of the day. Bet they don't have their tanks in air conditioned storage, no matter where you live.
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:51 PM   #3023
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Your Oxy fuel bottles are fine in the hot sun. Just dont let them leak in a closed room or car and light them. Also dont let more than 14 psi out of an acetalylene bottle or it tends to self ignite. Keep an acetelyne bottle upright to keep the acetone inside from coming out of the bottle. If you do knock it over you should give the bottle time to settle the acetone to move back to the bottom of the bottle. The bottle has a menbrane that keeps the acetone and acetelene stable and safe. Sorry no spell check.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:54 AM   #3024
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i hope this hasn't been asked already--i want to use some old tin roofing for a project, but don't want to get zinc poisoning. is there a (best) way of doing this? Cross wind from a fan? respirator? ( if so, a simple vapor one?)
I've read about removing the zinc plating with acid, but this seems nearly as problematic as the zinc plating its self. i heard vinegar will work, but takes a long time.

Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #3025
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i hope this hasn't been asked already--i want to use some old tin roofing for a project, but don't want to get zinc poisoning. is there a (best) way of doing this? Cross wind from a fan? respirator? ( if so, a simple vapor one?)
I've read about removing the zinc plating with acid, but this seems nearly as problematic as the zinc plating its self. i heard vinegar will work, but takes a long time.

Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks
Outdoors with a breeze works well with oxy/acetylene. Respirator with zinc fume cartridges would be safest.

The one time I wanted to clean the zinc off and away, I used muriatic acid. Takes off zinc like washing off mud. Didn't attack the steel underneath, but I did wash/neutralize it after.
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This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:57 AM   #3026
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thanks wadester.

How will I know when the zinc is gone, if I use the acid method? I know what the zinc plating looks like, will it just look like regular metal when the zinc is gone?

if I wire brush it off, how far from the weld area do i need to take off to be safe? Also, again, if i use this method, how will i know when it's gone?

Thanks again!
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:22 PM   #3027
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I think muriatic acid fumes are as dangerous as the zinc, be careful with that crap. Outdoors during a tornado would be good.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #3028
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Muriatic fumes are irritating, nasty. Zinc fumes are poisonous and can cause permanent damage. Well ventilated spaces are always a good idea.

You can easily tell when the acid has taken away the zinc. Obvious color difference, plus no more bubbly mess. Wire wheel will not remove all the zinc. Grinder, maybe.

How far to clean? How big is the heat discolored area gonna be? A bit more than that. Clean a generous area. You'll need to paint/coat the area if you want rust protection anyways.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:14 PM   #3029
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Can I get good results by brushing the acid on the areas to be welded? I think the size of the pieces to be welded might make finding a large enough container to soak them in difficult.

thanks again!
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:47 PM   #3030
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Originally Posted by ivantheterrible View Post
Can I get good results by brushing the acid on the areas to be welded? I think the size of the pieces to be welded might make finding a large enough container to soak them in difficult.

thanks again!
How much welding are you going to be doing on those things? If it's not going to be hours worth I would think doing the work in a well ventilated area and keeping your face out of the fumes would be sufficient.

http://www.sperkoengineering.com/htm...Galvanized.pdf
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