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Old 08-21-2012, 08:49 PM   #511
DRONE
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Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytona View Post
I'm crushed! No call from stealer!! This is so not what the BMW logo stood for IMO. Just have to keep the RPM up when riding this fine bike. I will see what motorrad has to say about the rip off on warranty they did. (any have a way of getting to someone that cares?} Is this world F'ed up or what?
What country are you from?
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #512
jtw000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytona View Post
I'm crushed! No call from stealer!! This is so not what the BMW logo stood for IMO. Just have to keep the RPM up when riding this fine bike. I will see what motorrad has to say about the rip off on warranty they did. (any have a way of getting to someone that cares?} Is this world F'ed up or what?

You know, it's often not changing the battery that fixes these little gremlins. For instance, mine plays up occasionally, the other night she kept stalling but what you need to do is stop the bike and then turn on the ignition. Once the lights have finished flashing open the throttle all the way and the close it again. Then turn off the ignition and turn it back on again. This resets the computer and normally fixes everything. That might be why swapping the battery fixes the gremlins, you're effectively resetting the system but the throttle trick is a built in reset you can do whenever you feel like it.
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:06 AM   #513
jezuar
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Originally Posted by jezuar View Post
Same here else, I think it's the sensor temperature in the radiator

That makes me think that the warning light check high temperature multifunction display does not light in the pre-ride check.


finally with battery changing all the problems were solved
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:22 AM   #514
mikecbrxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtw000 View Post
You know, it's often not changing the battery that fixes these little gremlins. For instance, mine plays up occasionally, the other night she kept stalling but what you need to do is stop the bike and then turn on the ignition. Once the lights have finished flashing open the throttle all the way and the close it again. Then turn off the ignition and turn it back on again. This resets the computer and normally fixes everything. That might be why swapping the battery fixes the gremlins, you're effectively resetting the system but the throttle trick is a built in reset you can do whenever you feel like it.
I think what you are actually doing is resetting the throttle idle point. Mine often fails to run correctly/stalls and over time it seems to be caused by the throttle not being in its normal rest position when starting the engine or starting the engine too quickly after putting on ignition and not allowing the throttle to reset itself correctly.
In my case, sometimes I forget to unscrew the throttle lock when I stop the bike.

Opening the throttle as you describe simply has the effect of ensuring the throttle is in its correct position when you turn the ignition on the next time so allowing the bike to correctly set that as the idle position.

Mike
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:57 PM   #515
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytona View Post
I'm crushed! No call from stealer!! This is so not what the BMW logo stood for IMO. ...
What logo?

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Old 08-23-2012, 11:04 PM   #516
snooker
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Originally Posted by jtw000 View Post
... the other night she kept stalling but what you need to do is stop the bike and then turn on the ignition. Once the lights have finished flashing open the throttle all the way and the close it again. Then turn off the ignition and turn it back on again. This resets the computer and normally fixes everything. That might be why swapping the battery fixes the gremlins, you're effectively resetting the system but the throttle trick is a built in reset you can do whenever you feel like it.
Here is Drone's "gold standard" of XCountry procedures to reset the throttle positioning sensor (TPS) or idle or whatever the hell it is doing to try and minimize the cold stalling issue:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
key off
key on
throttle wide open
throttle full close
throttle wide open
throttle full close
key off
key on
start engine with no throttle
allow engine to find idle without touching throttle
once it settles into an idle, key off
you're done.
From: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=5702
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:06 AM   #517
mikecbrxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Here is Drone's "gold standard" of XCountry procedures to reset the throttle positioning sensor (TPS) or idle or whatever the hell it is doing to try and minimize the cold stalling issue:


From: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=5702
I'm not trying to be picky but the TPS position is set EVERY TIME the ignition is turned on so parts of this 'gold standard' are redundant.

Mike
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:10 AM   #518
maltese
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Oakland
Oddometer: 33
Model: xChallenge
Year 2007
ABS: no
Mileage at time of issue: 14000
Date of occurrence: 9/13/2012
Modifications (if any): Remus Exhaust, uniflow filiter, rg tail tidy
Description of Failure(s): I was riding along the freeway at about 70 mph and the motor cut. After getting to the side of the road, I was able to start it again, but the second the engine was under power, it would die. Then I got it to idle for about 5 min, and it died on its own. Then after getting it started one more time, when I shook the bike around it would die the further it was leaned ot the right. Also, when leaned to the right one time the over heat light came on while trying to start the bike.

The bike is new to me and never had a real problem of starting, had one time i can recall abotu amonth ago where the bike stalled on its own, and it may have been a little slow to start that evening, but that was about it.

Resolution (if any): Swapped out the battery, now using a Full Spectrum Power Pulse 2 battery (A123 type) I'll let you know how it goes!
Reference Thread

I am asusming it is the battery, but do you have any other recomendations?

maltese screwed with this post 09-16-2012 at 02:31 PM Reason: Fixed
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:59 PM   #519
August West
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Battery in top condition is a must. I was saved enormous effort on my X when I read on one of these threads that 90% of electrical gremlins can be traced back to faulty ignition switch.
The solder joints are prone to failure. They allow intermittent operation for awhile causing (me) great puzzlement.
I bypassed the key switch entirely with a rocker switch and all of my previous symptoms have disappeared.
Hope this helps. An inspection of the switch mechanism is worth doing IMO.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:05 PM   #520
daytona
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More battery woe's with this fine bike!

Anyone know if these (Shorai LFX14A4-BS12) help or have a bad reaction in a g650x? The Yuasa YTZ10S makes it run better but won't last if it doesn't start right up!
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:29 AM   #521
FinnDuro
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Originally Posted by daytona View Post
Anyone know if these (Shorai LFX14A4-BS12) help or have a bad reaction in a g650x? The Yuasa YTZ10S makes it run better but won't last if it doesn't start right up!
My Shorai is a "summer battery", both of the two that I've sampled. Soon as the temps go anywhere near cold let alone freezing point, problem arise, and it seems to take forever for the battery to really wake up and start the bike. Takes like 15mins or so, and I do know the drill required. Unfortunately, cannot promote Shorai for Xchallenge.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:42 AM   #522
pampaX
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Originally Posted by FinnDuro View Post
My Shorai is a "summer battery", both of the two that I've sampled. Soon as the temps go anywhere near cold let alone freezing point, problem arise, and it seems to take forever for the battery to really wake up and start the bike. Takes like 15mins or so, and I do know the drill required. Unfortunately, cannot promote Shorai for Xchallenge.
I have a gravity 8 cell and when its cold (-2 to +6 C) it takes a while to start the bike .. have to crank it 6+ times as well as turn ignition on an wait a few minutes ... may be that a bigger one is needed. However it always started and charge seems always ok and is very small and ligth
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Old 09-22-2012, 06:54 PM   #523
SCflyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by August West View Post
Battery in top condition is a must. I was saved enormous effort on my X when I read on one of these threads that 90% of electrical gremlins can be traced back to faulty ignition switch.
The solder joints are prone to failure. They allow intermittent operation for awhile causing (me) great puzzlement.
I bypassed the key switch entirely with a rocker switch and all of my previous symptoms have disappeared.
Hope this helps. An inspection of the switch mechanism is worth doing IMO.

Can you advise how you did this?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:06 AM   #524
Butters
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As much as I hope your Shorai battery fixes your bike's woes, I'm inclined to think the problem lies elsewhere.

Yes, the bike needs a working battery. But ANY working battery should be fine. Even an Exide is fine - until it fails. When the Exide fails, a cell goes bad and you have a battery making <10v. That doesn't fly. But any WORKING battery with 12v should do the job.

The ignition switch is a somewhat common failure point. You pop off the dome-shaped bottom of the ignition switch and you'll see where the wires are soldered. Several people had those solder joints fail. Could be due to bad soldering, poor strain relief of the wiring harness, also aggravated by bumpy offroad riding.

I checked mine as PM, and they were fine. But based upon your issues, it is certainly worth checking that as failure point. Your bike seems to have an intermittent electrical gremlin more than a battery issue. Unless your batteries are actually failing.
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:17 AM   #525
Miguel Pedro
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Greetings to all!
The polishing of the freewhel and freewhel and housing did not result!



As the price of these parts is absurd, I decided to repair the old ones.




I think that was a great job, better than new!

I put a hardned ring on each piece.
A week later and many startups, everything works perfectly!!
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