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Old 09-07-2012, 05:35 AM   #2701
SV_Dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobmws View Post
Now if you want to talk about tightening the pivot screw on the light bracket........
Wouldn't it work better to flip the mount around, so the center of gravity of the body of the light is directly over the mount rather than in front? It would have less leverage on the pivot screw that way.
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #2702
OzRider64
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Cry model 44's on the blink, not happy.

G'day Sanjoh,

Back in October of last year I purchased a set of model 44's off you. Only got to fit them to my bike in Feb of this year.

For the first couple of months they worked fine. My bike is a 2010 R1200gs. The lights are fitted to a PC8 Fuse block with a IQ-170 from Skeene Products and a mini switch from Cyclenutz which is used to turn the lights on.

I sent you a post a couple of months ago regarding the flickering in one of the lights and you told me not to worry.

Well a week ago the other light went out totally and the other lights flicker is getting worse.

Decided to pull the tank of last week and check all the connections again. Everything checked out fine. Disconnected the mini switch and ran the lights through the IQ-170 same problem. Disconnected the IQ-170 and ran the lights connected to the battery same problem.

I understand from your website the lights had a limited warranty and I am well outside that time frame. I am more annoyed that other people are having a good run from them. I suppose Chinese manafactured items can have variable quality. Only three weeks ago I had to replace a ballast on my 35w HID from DDM which I have had on for the same time as the modell 44's.

Sanjoh, I don't no what to do here. Do I purchase another set and take the risk??. Can I send them back to you to have a look at or do I bin them and go for a set of Clearwaters.

Any help would be much appreciated Sanjoh.

Simon.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:32 PM   #2703
sanjoh OP
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Hi Simon,

If you purchased in October of last year, the lights are still under warranty. Please contact me by email sandjoh@gmail.com for further instructions.
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:36 AM   #2704
Bobmws
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dwayne View Post
Wouldn't it work better to flip the mount around, so the center of gravity of the body of the light is directly over the mount rather than in front? It would have less leverage on the pivot screw that way.
Tried that, don't remember why it didn't work, solution was to remove the bracket once the lights were aimed. That gave me access to the bolt & jam nuts. Lights haven't moved since.
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:11 PM   #2705
Rainier_runner
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60's, volt meter, flashlight!

Order placed! Can't wait to get these 60's mounted up, and to test out the flashlight! They'll be WABDR tested the last week of the month. Pics will ensue.

Thanks.

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Old 09-08-2012, 01:03 PM   #2706
Jazz62
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Some pics of the model 60's

Finally got a chance to get some pics of the model 60's on my '00 1150GS. Back wall of the garage is approximately 55 feet away. These pics are a very accurate representation (to my eyes) of how the output of the model 60's really look. Everything shot in full manual mode using a Nikon D90 and a Tamron 18-50mm 2.8 lens. No editing of any kind aside from JPG conversion.
I don't see how you could beat the performance of these lights at anywhere near the price.

***The only disclaimer is that in these pics the projection angle of all the lights is slightly lower than they would be if I were sitting on the bike***.
.
Pic 1 - Nothing but ambient lighting courtesy of City of Chicago



Pic 2 - 35W HID low-beam only



Pic 3 - 35W HID lowbeam and advmonster model 60's at 100% - SHAZAM!



Pic 4 - 35W HID lowbeam, 55W halogen highbeam, advmonster model 60's at 100%



Pic 5 - advmonster model 60's at 100%, no lowbeam or high beam


Jazz62 screwed with this post 09-09-2012 at 01:28 AM
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:05 AM   #2707
viz
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Location: Sydney, Oz
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Front lens broke...

Hey Sanjoh - just had a small rock go through the front lens on a 40 . The glass broke into shards which is not the safest...

Replaced the lens with an old one from a 10 that I had lying around - what are the chances of future lights having a lexan or polycarbonate front lens? Don't think it would add too much to the cost...

viz
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:24 PM   #2708
max384
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Sanjoh, I got your lights in yesterday (Holy crap! FAST shipping. I ordered Thursday afternoon and they arrived at my door on Saturday with standard shipping selected!). I went to install them and realized automotive wiring is definitely not my thing. I want to wire them independent of any of the headlights so that I can flip them on and off regardless of whether the high or low beams are on or whether the keys are on, etc.

In my simplistic mind, it makes sense that I can just add an inline fuse and switch to the hot wire and just run the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Here is a quick diagram of my proposed wiring plan:



Would I need a relay or a voltage regulator or anything? Is that diagram complete crap?

If anyone else has my answer, please feel free to jump in. This isn't just directed toward Sanjoh.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:32 PM   #2709
Jazz62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Sanjoh, I got your lights in yesterday (Holy crap! FAST shipping. I ordered Thursday afternoon and they arrived at my door on Saturday with standard shipping selected!). I went to install them and realized automotive wiring is definitely not my thing. I want to wire them independent of any of the headlights so that I can flip them on and off regardless of whether the high or low beams are on or whether the keys are on, etc.

In my simplistic mind, it makes sense that I can just add an inline fuse and switch to the hot wire and just run the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Here is a quick diagram of my proposed wiring plan:

Would I need a relay or a voltage regulator or anything? Is that diagram complete crap?

If anyone else has my answer, please feel free to jump in. This isn't just directed toward Sanjoh.
You'd want the switch after the fuse, wouldn't you?
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:36 PM   #2710
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz62 View Post
You'd want the switch after the fuse, wouldn't you?
Would you? I honestly have no idea. I never gave that even a second thought. It was arbitrary where I placed the fuse and switch in that diagram.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:36 PM   #2711
RoundOz
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Pretty close...

Generally a fuse should protect the whole circuit from shorting to the frame, so close to the battery and before the switch is best. As long as your wire and switch are rated for the amps you don't need a relay. (eg, a 10 amp switch and #14 wire should be heavy and physically robust enough for this small of a load. You could probably go smaller but won't save much money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Sanjoh, I got your lights in yesterday (Holy crap! FAST shipping. I ordered Thursday afternoon and they arrived at my door on Saturday with standard shipping selected!). I went to install them and realized automotive wiring is definitely not my thing. I want to wire them independent of any of the headlights so that I can flip them on and off regardless of whether the high or low beams are on or whether the keys are on, etc.

In my simplistic mind, it makes sense that I can just add an inline fuse and switch to the hot wire and just run the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Here is a quick diagram of my proposed wiring plan:



Would I need a relay or a voltage regulator or anything? Is that diagram complete crap?

If anyone else has my answer, please feel free to jump in. This isn't just directed toward Sanjoh.
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:01 PM   #2712
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundOz View Post
Generally a fuse should protect the whole circuit from shorting to the frame, so close to the battery and before the switch is best. As long as your wire and switch are rated for the amps you don't need a relay. (eg, a 10 amp switch and #14 wire should be heavy and physically robust enough for this small of a load. You could probably go smaller but won't save much money.
Thanks. I'll make sure to put it between the switch and the battery than. The rest of the diagram looks okay though?

The switch I have is rated to 30amps. I have an inline mini-blade fuse holder rated to 30 amps. I figured I'd use a 5 or 10 amp fuse since the lights are only 0.85 amp each. I already have 18ga wire, so I guess I'd just use that since they can handle roughly 16amps. Plus the wires from the lights look to be about 20ga, so that should work out fine, I would think. What do you think?
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:05 PM   #2713
watagans300exc
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Hey Sanjoh,

Will your rotary dimmer control the output of a 55 watt HID ballast? Or will the smoke come out of both......

Cheers,

Tony.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #2714
max384
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Just got 'em mounted, wired, and properly aimed. Thanks for the wiring help guys.

Wow! What a difference they make! I'm definitely glad I went with the model 30s for extending my low beams out a bit. The tight pattern is just what I needed.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:27 AM   #2715
RoundOz
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I think your work is just fine. I guess I assumed you were wiring a pair of 60s, which would pull more amps. Even so, the difference in voltage drop (the loss caused by the resistance of the wire)between 14 and 18 gauge is probably negligible and affects led lights less than halogens anyway...with 100 W halogens you can see the difference in the color and power of the beam if you go cheap on the size of the wire, and worse case you will melt it.

I personally prefer to stay at or larger than 14 for any additional auto wiring, but I have to admit it is mostly from old habits in dealing with larger loads and greater distances that tintops impose. There is something to be said for the thicker insulation that larger wire generally has, but if smaller wire is routed and secured the right way that becomes less of an issue.

An important point is that your wire needs to have enough current carrying capacity to blow the fuse you have installed. From your figures you have allowed for this. Many trailer homes are reduced to a pile of ash ( some would say this is an improvement) because they have very few outlet circuits, and fuses or breakers have been replaced with larger sizes to prevent nuisance tripping from a larger load than the wiring was designed to carry. In a well-designed circuit, the fuse will stop current flow before the colorful plastic falls off.

A fire on a bike is a scary thing. One of mine had flames coming from under the tank as I stood next to it at the gas station with the gas cap open and fuel filler hose in hand. It was an OEM starter solenoid that picked the least fortunate moment to melt down. No fuse between the battery and the solenoid meant that all the smoke got out and it quit working. Some cobbled together parts from NAPA got me going again and the only permanent damage was to my undershorts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Just got 'em mounted, wired, and properly aimed. Thanks for the wiring help guys.

Wow! What a difference they make! I'm definitely glad I went with the model 30s for extending my low beams out a bit. The tight pattern is just what I needed.
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