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Old 09-14-2012, 01:07 PM   #69136
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamlander View Post
same bike, exact same problem, order with RegulatorRectifier still pending after more than a week,hate having bike not running. what the hell is up with this run of bad pickup coils?
I have no idea what's up with the pickup coil, but those phillips head screws holding it in place are giving me no end of headaches.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kamlander View Post
called RegulatorRectifier, regarding pending order. it was sent and received by my drop box in the u.s., so i guess they get a thumbs up from me. confusion arose from the fact that they do not provide tracking, so my mistake.
I wound up calling them yesterday afternoon and was told that my part was out for delivery that day. The lack of tracking notification threw me off as well, so I guess I judged a little harshly and a little early. Interestingly enough, did yours come with the red and white wires or the blue and green wires? The first post I read about replacing this thing was from a couple years ago and the general point was "came with blue and green wires, but you have to reverse them for it to work." Then, a couple people from more recently said "came with red and white wires. Put the red to green and white to blue." The company's website was even updated to show that it comes with the red and white wires and how to wire them in. However, mine came with green and blue wires. Before I solder it together, seal everything back up, and put the oil back in the bike, I want to know if they wound up making new replacement parts that are correctly wired. Just curious.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:23 PM   #69137
WilderRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
However, mine came with green and blue wires. Before I solder it together, seal everything back up, and put the oil back in the bike, I want to know if they wound up making new replacement parts that are correctly wired. Just curious.

Mine came with red and white, but it is really not a problem if you have to reverse them after you put it all together. Like I had said, they do not seem consistent on the coloring. I would connect them OUTSIDE the engine case to make it easier to do this. I had to.
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:30 PM   #69138
neo1piv014
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Originally Posted by WilderRider View Post
Mine came with red and white, but it is really not a problem if you have to reverse them after you put it all together. Like I had said, they do not seem consistent on the coloring. I would connect them OUTSIDE the engine case to make it easier to do this. I had to.
Connect them outside the case? That's a damn good idea....

New question, what's the best way to get the damn phillips heads out so you can pull that coil? I just barely got one out, but the second one turned into a perfectly smooth cone the second I twisted the screwdriver.
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:38 PM   #69139
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #69140
wayno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Ya keep us updated on the levers. The last owner of my DR cut his balls off to get a good fit with the handguards. I want to replace the whole setup.
I remember a guy who does not ride a DR anymore cutting the balls off then sliding the lever back into the whole that is on the bottom of ball and having some one heli-ark them back on...just a cheap suggestion.

There are also handguards that fit off the tripple tree that have room.
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:56 PM   #69141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Connect them outside the case? That's a damn good idea....

New question, what's the best way to get the damn phillips heads out so you can pull that coil? I just barely got one out, but the second one turned into a perfectly smooth cone the second I twisted the screwdriver.
I think I ended up using an impact driver on one of them. One of them came out fine for me. The trick was having someone hold everything while I whacked (I believe my wife was supporting it against the footpeg while I did this because the wire is still attached). Of course, just in case of future need, I ended up replacing the phillips head with allen bolts (like the NSU screws). I do not remember the pitch or size now. I was waiting on the gasket, so I just took the screws down to Ace Hardware and matched them up.
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:24 PM   #69142
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Originally Posted by WilderRider View Post
I think I ended up using an impact driver on one of them. One of them came out fine for me. The trick was having someone hold everything while I whacked (I believe my wife was supporting it against the footpeg while I did this because the wire is still attached). Of course, just in case of future need, I ended up replacing the phillips head with allen bolts (like the NSU screws). I do not remember the pitch or size now. I was waiting on the gasket, so I just took the screws down to Ace Hardware and matched them up.
I'm going to try getting my hands on an impact driver this afternoon when I pickup a soldering iron or some other way of connecting the wires in the right place. If that doesn't work, I'm really trying to make drilling out the screw my last option. Once I've got that taken care of, I'm definitely picking up some damn allen heads for everything that' got a phillips on it now. What the hell were they thinking...
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:50 PM   #69143
Kommando
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I'm going to try getting my hands on an impact driver this afternoon when I pickup a soldering iron or some other way of connecting the wires in the right place. If that doesn't work, I'm really trying to make drilling out the screw my last option. Once I've got that taken care of, I'm definitely picking up some damn allen heads for everything that' got a phillips on it now. What the hell were they thinking...
They're JIS, not Philips? I get tough screws out pretty easily with a cordless drill and a soft setting of the clutch. I gradually use a harder and harder setting until the screw breaks free. Just make sure to fully seat the bit in the screw head before applying torque.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:06 PM   #69144
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Originally Posted by bross View Post
I didn't have any problems with the Tiger handling wise or find it to be any more of a handful than my DR is on our ride. I did crash twice, well one crash and one just set it down slowly. No damage to the bike and I didn't even have time to fit the BarkBusters before we left so I just had the crappy plastic hand guards, but I loosened the lever bolts so my clutch just twisted instead of snapping when I crashed.




This ride ended up being way tougher than I was expecting. I suck in sand and that crash isn't a reflection on the bike but more my ability or more accurately, lack of it. Probably would have crashed my DR there too. We rode about 50kms on power line roads, these were steep rocky, loose climbs and descents with a few washouts thrown in. I didn't have any trouble on that knarly terrain, just the sand.
A sand-capable front tire could make a HUGE difference until you build skills in the soft stuff.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #69145
Eddieb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Ya keep us updated on the levers. The last owner of my DR cut his balls off to get a good fit with the handguards. I want to replace the whole setup.
I just bought the handguard extenders from Procycle, job done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Procycle website
Don't cut your balls off! I mean - don't cut the ball ends off of your levers. These billet spacers move your handguards outward to allow clearance for the full length of the stock levers. Designed to fit steel or aluminum bars. Includes longer stainless steel mounting bolts. Not compatible with Emgo
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:48 PM   #69146
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Do you think that a 790cc kit and something like the Wee-Strom seat would be sufficient for 2-up adventure touring?
Unless the 2 of you are over 400lb or at altitude or something, you don't even really need the 790 kit for 2up touring. Just open the intake/exhaust and tune the carb. If you get it right, it'll do over 90MPH on stock gears, and it'll get there quicker than most factory-stock cages. Not running lean jetting also makes the bike feel a little cooler.

We ride the DR 2up a LOT (dirt, street, AND slab), and our only real issue is that the seat isn't very long. This means that we can't move around much. We're also crowded by a tankbag, tank panniers, a steep IMS tank, and a rear topbox. The rider and passenger pegs are lowered, touring pegs are bolted to the skid, and the seat is a Seat Concepts kit on the stock pan. I also have stiffer springs front and rear. The lowered rider pegs allow my knees to tuck nicely behind the tank panniers. The topbox is moved back 3-4" from where it would normally be.

We're 5'8"/200lb/30"inseam and 5'4"/petite/30"inseam. If you're much bigger than us, I'd suggest a more spacious bike like a DL. The lowered/touring pegs, seat, and springs are highly recommended for much 2up on a DR.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:10 PM   #69147
kamlander
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I wound up calling them yesterday afternoon and was told that my part was out for delivery that day. The lack of tracking notification threw me off as well, so I guess I judged a little harshly and a little early. Interestingly enough, did yours come with the red and white wires or the blue and green wires? The first post I read about replacing this thing was from a couple years ago and the general point was "came with blue and green wires, but you have to reverse them for it to work." Then, a couple people from more recently said "came with red and white wires. Put the red to green and white to blue." The company's website was even updated to show that it comes with the red and white wires and how to wire them in. However, mine came with green and blue wires. Before I solder it together, seal everything back up, and put the oil back in the bike, I want to know if they wound up making new replacement parts that are correctly wired. Just curious.
__

mine came with the blue and green, and a little note saying to reverse them. fired right up, fuck yeah. knocked out the screws with a little 12 volt impact driver, worked perfect. you may be able to get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel inside the case and cut a slot in the head of the screw, rather than trying to drill it out. solder inside the case or out,either way pretty easy, did mine inside,just because. ________________
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:05 PM   #69148
Feelers
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Unless the 2 of you are over 400lb or at altitude or something, you don't even really need the 790 kit for 2up touring. Just open the intake/exhaust and tune the carb. If you get it right, it'll do over 90MPH on stock gears, and it'll get there quicker than most factory-stock cages. Not running lean jetting also makes the bike feel a little cooler.

We ride the DR 2up a LOT (dirt, street, AND slab), and our only real issue is that the seat isn't very long. This means that we can't move around much. We're also crowded by a tankbag, tank panniers, a steep IMS tank, and a rear topbox. The rider and passenger pegs are lowered, touring pegs are bolted to the skid, and the seat is a Seat Concepts kit on the stock pan. I also have stiffer springs front and rear. The lowered rider pegs allow my knees to tuck nicely behind the tank panniers. The topbox is moved back 3-4" from where it would normally be.

We're 5'8"/200lb/30"inseam and 5'4"/petite/30"inseam. If you're much bigger than us, I'd suggest a more spacious bike like a DL. The lowered/touring pegs, seat, and springs are highly recommended for much 2up on a DR.
My bike sounds a lot like yours - stiffer springs, IMS tank, lowered pegs, Aftermarket (Sargent seat)...

I know the 790 kit is unnecessary - just kind of an added benefit maybe. A longer seat would be the main thing. Do you think this would be sufficient? http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...671846&page=31
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:47 PM   #69149
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
My bike sounds a lot like yours - stiffer springs, IMS tank, lowered pegs, Aftermarket (Sargent seat)...

I know the 790 kit is unnecessary - just kind of an added benefit maybe. A longer seat would be the main thing. Do you think this would be sufficient? http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...671846&page=31
Works for me
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #69150
bross
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
A sand-capable front tire could make a HUGE difference until you build skills in the soft stuff.
What's a sand capable front tire? I had new TKCs mounted front and back. Sand was a very small component of this ride, basically about 1 km stretch. Rest was mostly hard pack gravel and then steep, loose rocky climbs and descents. And what's your recommended method for getting through this? My wife took the advice of a fellow inmate and sat way back on her seat, 2nd gear, steady throttle and made it easily on her DR200 running IRC GP1s.

I was on the pegs, steering with the pegs, in 2nd gear but felt like the front got caught in a rut and wouldn't climb out and that's when the front washed.

So, how do you guys who are better at this do it?
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