Well... it happened. I got my DR350 street legal and decided to clean the carb. While dissasembling it, I decided to take off the brass bolt holding the accelerator pump lever on. Big mistake. The threaded portion of the bolt snapped off in the carb body. Awesome. I ended up measuring the diameter of the threads, 1/10'. Any sort of force would shear that apart. I've seen eyeglasses with thicker screws. So off the the hardware store to firgure out what I could do. I decided to get a bolt just a little larger and try to drill and tap the opening to 10x24. Went great until the tap broke off in the hole. Now things are really fun. Pics to come soon. Here are my options: #1. http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Slide-...C5XRRCX4P2&qid=1348019258&s=automotive&sr=1-1 Brand spanking new TM33 for $216. It really wouldn't bother me to spend that and have a new carb on this bike and another carb for spare parts. #2. I ended up extracting the broken tap, but part of the carb casing cracked off. Everything is soaking in a citirc acid bath and tomorrow I will see if I can thread a stud into the remaining threads and salvage this carb. Needless to say, I've started popping open some cold ones
Initially the brass (why in the $h1T is this made of brass?!) bolt broke off in the threads. Then the tap broke and the wall of the casing came off while extracting it... I can still fix this
Hi Guys, Ive been on my DR 350 travelling the world for the past 2 years and Ive only just got around to purchasing and installing a temperature gauge. Before today I would normally test the frame with my thumb through the hole in my glove. Today I road out of Kampala (Uganda) and I found my bike quickly rose to 120 deg, C and started to rise further. I stopped the bike at a gas station to let it cool off before continuing. Through out the day I kept an eye on it... yes its a new gadget and its so shinny compared to the rest of the bike! Through out the day, it ranged on average 100-110 deg. C. on 80km/hr on boring highway riding. At its lowest it was 75 deg C. due to the air temperature dropping - But as soon as I hit some road construction it shot up from 80 to 120 deg. C. once again. My speed also dropped to 40 km/hr. Is this normal? I am now not looking forward to muddy sections through West Tanzania.... as I can only imagine the temperature going through the roof!
Normal? Probably. I seem to have read a few concerns about the oil temperature by people who've fit temperature gauges. I ride in high ambient temperatures out here in the Arizona deserts. I've never fit a gauge nor an oil cooler. I've put my DR350 through some very long days enduring very high temperatures with zero damage. I honestly do not wish to know (and then worry about) the oil temperature. My recommendation is to get rid of that gauge or learn to ignore it :> :> :> Regards, Gregory Bender
I've had one on my bike for a bit and I usually see about 80-120C depending on ambient temperature and how quickly I'm moving. Like Greg said, it seems to run fine either way so I mainly use the gauge as a way to make sure I've got enough oil in the bike. If it doesn't rise above 40c after a few minutes of riding, it probably needs to be topped off with oil.
I was always looking for a good reason to buy one of these oil temp thingies. But oil temp really makes sense!!!
I'll be checking the shift drum bolt after work today. It looks pretty straightforward. I'll hope it doesn't die again and just revisit the issue at that point. The oil weight was a case of using what was available late at night. Thanks!
I don't have an oil temp gauge, but I have been running a Vapor speedo with a temp sensor attached to the head for almost 10k miles. When I originally installed it I didn't know what "normal" temp range should be, but I did know that my bike was in great shape and running well so I monitored the temps to see where it usually ran and then I watched for any significant abnormal spike in temp that would indicate a problem. Temps on these air-cooled motors can vary quite a lot. The gauge provides useful information. You're not the first person to get concerned after installing a temp gauge and seeing the actual temps. Sorry I can't help more, but it looks like you probably have what you need at this point.
There are some folks who run 10-50 weight synthic oil in hot climates to comensate for the high temps. I usualy run some kind of blend between 10-40 and 50. No more than 50/50 as I do not live in a hot climate. YOu got to think to yourself. I have been running the DR around the world for 2 years now with no problem...
SWEET!!!! I got this bike last night from a really vague CL ad. The PO said he got it from his cousin in California who raced it "a long time ago" in the Baja1000 and barely finished with a clapped out engine. Last year he put a Pro-Cycle 440cc kit in it and freshened up the head and bottom end as well as putting on the edelbrock quicksilver carb. Turns out he injured himself and couldn't finish the project, so in I step! It has a lot of nice bits on it. Suspension is by "Pro-Action" out of CA, nice billet top triple, bars, throttle, badass oldschool Supertrapp, 4.4 gallon tank, and best of all, old school UFO plastics! I'm gonna ditch the Edelbrock and put an old DR350E TM33 that Greg Bender sold me on it. Any guesses on jet sizing? I'd like to put the airbox back on, but I'm missing the boot that goes from the airbox to the carb. Anybody got one they want to sell? Also I need some side covers as well. Gotta get back to working on it. I want to ride it tonight!
Looks like you have a fair bit of stuff missing on the bike. Regulator recitfier for one. Maybe it was relocated. Battery box, though you really don't need that. Good idea on putting a air box on there, as those pod filters, like the one sitting on the work bench doesn't nothing for filtering and clogs up super fast in the dirt. If you have an air box then I would not worru about the snorkle. If you follow jesses reccomendations he would most likey tell you to cut the top out of the airbox as well. My experiance is that this jsut burns more gas and make more noise and doesn't really make the bike go any faster. Since you have a big bore kit I don't rememebr off the top of my head what peeps jet to. Look at distec and pablos DR350 builds, they both have bigger displacement DR's and have their jet specs in their writeups. Not sure how important fuel eccomny is to you, but with the stock 127.5 main jet and a stock airbox with a CV carb, tall gearing, fireroads, I can glen 70+mpg. Buddy with a 140 main air box mod CV carb, gets 40. Even with low gears knobbies single track honning, I get 50mpg. Super CRAP muffler... don't even get me started
I'm with you on the superbrapp. It'll fetch a few bucks on ebay though. I didn't mean the snorkle actually, I meant the boot that goes to the carb from the airbox. (I corrected my post). I'm looking for another TM33 or FCR for this bike. I put the other one on my XT225 and it woke that little thing right up! I found a couple hidden deep in CL, but no replies yet.
Guys..... Anyone have an extended idle mix screw they would like to sell me here in the UK? There is one on Ebay here but it's $50! Jesse sells them for $15, but no longer ships to the UK apparently.... Anyone help? Thanks very much Jon
You might could grind off the bad stuff flush, then make a new piece (alloy, brass or steel) as large as possible for more purchase. Drill and tap the new piece and JB Weld it to the carb. Just be sure to get it in the right spot. It will probably be as strong as that POS brass thing.
I make my own extended mixture screws. Get some brass rod and a brass nut that you can make fit the rod pretty close and solder them to your stock screw. Measure the length you need to extend it, carefully. I use the "Little Torch" that I use in my jewelry work and "hard" silver solder. The hardest part is keeping it straight. A jeweler shouldn't charge you much to do it, if you supply him the parts ready to solder. Here's a pic of the one on the Transalp. And here's the one on the DR350.
Ok so if you take those Acerbis frame/boot guards off and sell them to me; that will help you get that bike fixed up.
The problem is that the case is very thin and I would end up drilling through to the slide housing and interrupt the movement of the slide. Check out my thread here to see my current progress.
