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Old 09-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #106
viola-tor OP
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In the process of being the first person in history to RE-INSTALL the SAS.

I want to try leaving the cannister off for now. The threads are kinda muddled with SAS and Cannister removals kinda merged. Do I leave the resistor I have in place of Cannister Valve? This one behind the triple-tree:



And if so, do I simply plug the SAS hose that would've gone up there and or leave the "S" hose between the TBs???



OR, perhaps I should go total stock and reinstall the cannister as well, to totally reset from the beginning?

What say ye?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:11 PM   #107
Wonko T. Sane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
OR, perhaps I should go total stock and reinstall the cannister as well, to totally reset from the beginning?

What say ye?
I'd put it all back together to try and get back to a decent fuel mileage. If that worked, I'd slowly do a mod at a time to try and figure out where it went bad.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:18 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Wonko T. Sane View Post
I'd put it all back together to try and get back to a decent fuel mileage. If that worked, I'd slowly do a mod at a time to try and figure out where it went bad.
Yes, I agree, thank you. After I posted that last one I thought "I'm in here, let's go back to the beginning."

Off to find some fresh rubber hoses!
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:54 PM   #109
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Or you can answer my PM and possibly avoid all that....
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:57 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
Yes, I agree, thank you. After I posted that last one I thought "I'm in here, let's go back to the beginning."

Off to find some fresh rubber hoses!
I think the PO gave me all the bits and pieces from SAS and canister removal. You can have those if needed.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:50 PM   #111
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SAS and Canni completely rebuilt and reinstalled. Left the ECU as-is to see where it's at (Akro map with 02s on). Went for a 200 mi. test ride. 28 mpg. Grrrrr.

I'm having immense frustration attempting to get TunECU to run on my Mac using a virtual machine. I don't know how to "drive" Windows, but it's not just me: A friend stopped by today (who does professional automotive F.I.) and he couldn't get it to work on my machine either, even though it seemingly worked fine on his pro laptop.

He flashed the stock map to the bike (KM601EU0704501) for me, and confirmed the O2 sensors are on. He showed the following error codes (which I've not seen before. Looked them up in the manual):

P0113 - Air temp sensor - (output signal too high/short circuit)

PO122 - Throttle position sensor - (output signal too low/interruption)

P0130 - Lambda probe - (rear cylinder/malfunction)

I would like to confirm these on another computer before proceeding. How could all of these get fried at the same time? Wiring problem maybe?

I've not test ridden with these settings/errors yet.

That's where I'm at. I apparently don't have a reliable computer to do more ECU stuff, which is making me, well, EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED. My friend suggested I go buy a cheap-O PC laptop just for the bike, and I'm seriously considering doing it, even though I want a PC in my life as bad as want a hole in the head.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:09 PM   #112
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Well, I could certainly see if your air temp sensor was faulted and the bike thinks it's really cold, that could make it run pretty rich, no matter what map is installed...

S
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:50 PM   #113
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If you opened your airbox (and unplugged your air temp sensor) and ran the bike, it will give you an error in the logs. If you clear it, it will most likely not come back.

Tps, you're probably out of spec. Set it at 0.60 with a warm engine. Engines turned off. That should go away as well when you clear the codes. (do a TB sync before your tps).

Your lambda, have you ran the bike with them off for a while? If so they're might be fried. If not then it might be a wiring issue. I have a few lambdas on the shelves if you want to try one.

Have you tried clearing the codes and see what comes back?
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:07 PM   #114
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Flashing it back to the stock map is a good step for your 2-1 exhaust, the Acro map was way too rich and had the O2 sensors turned off.

I'd also say to remove the pre-filter and put the stock intake horn back on, fuel injection is very sensitive to changes in the intake.

Your gearing is also too low for high-speed mileage. The best mileage on these is in the 3800-4200 rpm range, using less than 10% throttle. TuneECU will read out your throttle setting and you can mark it on the twist grip to help you analyze this.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:46 AM   #115
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Hey look at it this way: you found something new and it corroborates with what my tuner said, that to get that drastic of a drop in mpg you had to have some sensors go bad.

Now the question is what to do. If all three sensors are indeed bad, what caused it? Electric surge? Drop in water and they corroded? Shitty luck? I say this because you may be better off replacing all three at the same time instead of one by one in case a bad sensor has, somehow, caused all this in the other sensors.

You are to the point now where it might be better to buy/borrow a PC so you can run TuneECU. Or, better yet, can you download your tune and any diagnostic stuff and send it to me? I'm wondering if you can download a diagnostic file that Wheeler, or anyone here, may be able to use to confirm the sensors are bad. If you can get a second opinion then I dare say you just solved the mystery.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:32 PM   #116
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the reply.

Greetings Forumdwellers..

I am Viola-tors friend the professional mechanic …with the fancy laptops that scan vehicles..

My initial impression of this KTM.. in a rather scattered reply.

Dont skimp on any cheaper types of budget contact anti ox. Get the $15-$30 a can stuff.

get at least this stuff, (or something better) put it inside *every* electrical connection on the ktm that has to do with drivetrain control. Before replacing the sensors, do the wiring maintenance. ( I attempt to explain more below ) It will make the bikes ecm feel better.


http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_sim_MI_1


like Jacks fuel pump, or half the sensors or modules I worked on last year… that were failing, its often not the unit but the molex connector..

So..

With one of my fast laptop that’s talking to the bike as fast as a T1 line, scan the bike, after cleaning and tweaking all the molex plugs. After they have all been cleaned & treated with a no ox product.. IF, IF IF, its still messing up... then wiggle test it with a scanner that’s working well. ( not that wonky slow windows emulator, you need realtime if its going to drop any connection or module )
And… no...no second opinion needed from the toughbook pro...its scanning word has always been law …its never failed me. I have two other work laptops, you may use one for a second opinion if you want. I just need it back asap. For best confirm, Use a slightly different KTM software version, a different laptop…But I assure you, its really not needed. You’ve got some wonky electrical connections, or a bad sensors. .. but usually it’s a molex plug oxidized.

your KTM needs all its contacts - that chemical - and tweaking of the internal pins at each connector 4-7 degree gradual twist or so. . on each pin, inside each connector, with a strong hemostat or needle nose.. just enough to give it resistance going in, but not screw em up.
Ill show you how before another bike ride once the mud is dry. maybe next weds or sooner.

After an oxidized plug is serviced, for long term stability... FILL each plug with electric insulating goop. It displaces the bad things that causes grief.


Hey, and I could have sworn, (at least in my own separate reality,) I signed up on advrider long ago,… seems to have deleted my login info ..maybe if I didnt log in for more than 6 months ??
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:04 PM   #117
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Weathertight connectors

I believe most of the connectors use weathertight connections ( connectors with rubber seals on the wires and plugs)
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:07 PM   #118
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I believe most of the connectors use weathertight connections ( connectors with rubber seals on the wires and plugs)

well, watch the semi fearless way that viola-tor rides, then keep in mind, any connection, any part, is a varied degree of "weather resistant" and not proofed.

as he pointed out when I was working on his bike "were the kinda riders that break stuff"
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:42 PM   #119
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upon reading , back in this thread...
I did not look at all the ranges for all sensors, thats a bit more thought, time, reading, to the quickie scan and flash that I did that weds. . . . to see if they were within the spec ranges on my laptop scanner.. gotta check and examine each one in real time while its running.

I just skimmed most of them, that they were reading something, at all.. that you had hooked them up in all your bike surgery.

It looks like it might be a painfully long chore to check the specs on each sensor, while running, after it reaches operating temp.

so when you checked, .... How much are the KTM tuner guys getting within a couple hundred miles ?
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:12 PM   #120
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Hi Will! Welcome to the virtual party!
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