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Old 09-17-2012, 12:50 PM   #7576
gbacque
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Location: Baton Rouge
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accessories relay

I don't want my accessories to drain the battery when I forget to turn them off so I ran two blade type fuses through a relay so when the bike is off so are the electronics. But where to get the on signal? I can tell you now, nothing off the starter relay works. That will either keep the starter spinning or tun everything off unless in neutral or the clutch is pulled. To prevent the same mistake three times I put the bike in gear and found a hot wire that was cold when the key is off. What I didn't count on is the wire I chose did satisfy this condition but also turned off when the bike was in neutral.

Annoying at first, this turned out the be really handy. My GPS beeps when it looses power so any time I would accidentally shift into neutral it would beep at me. Saved me several times this weekend riding around on trails. Never did I twist the throttle expecting power when I was in neutral. Then the GPS would beep again when I found a gear.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:59 PM   #7577
Reposado1800
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Originally Posted by Drtyfun View Post
During my rear tire change, the brake side rear bearing just fell out of the hub. It feels rough when rolled, and appears to have spun in the hub. The new bearing drops right in, with just a little slop.
Any options other than buying a new hub? Could I use Locktite and have it staked to buy me one more tire change? Do bearings have the same inside I.D. and different outside diameter that I can have the hub machined?
Anybody run into this before? Please give me your thoughts or suggestions.


(Any suggestions will be a short term repair. A rear wheel rebuild is in my future. )
I would stake it and use loctite green. I have done this on cars and it works great.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:49 PM   #7578
Drtyfun
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Originally Posted by Clayjars View Post
I would stake it and use loctite green. I have done this on cars and it works great.
This is what I went with yesterday. Rode to work today, and will pull the rear wheel this weekend to see if it is holding. I am going to do some research on the rear wheel/disc brake conversion before I order the new hub. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:39 PM   #7579
jspringator
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Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
I have had a Russel Day Long on all 5 of my Vstrom's and now has over 100k miles on that seat and I absolutely love it. No other seat comes close in comfort. I've never really thought of putting one on a DS although it certainly will be comfy! You even got the double Russell! Do you really go 2up that much on your XT?
It cost a little over $500, plus shipping. I need the 2 up capability. I don't know how much I will use it.

Rode it the other day. Seat was very comfy, but I still wanted to slide forward. It is probably the bars. I have a hard time touching the ground. I think I will need to wear my ST disco boots. I've ordered a set of Turbo City windshield bars and Madstad brackets and windshield.

I have some first generation ST1100 Helibars that are infinitely adjustable that I don't use on my ST. I think I'm going to see how they will work. I think If they came back a little bit I wouldn't be sliding forward. The seat isn't canted forward at all. I only use the bike for street riding.

Next, radial tires
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:00 PM   #7580
Drtyfun
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Originally Posted by Clayjars View Post
I would stake it and use loctite green. I have done this on cars and it works great.
Loctite and stake so far is holding. I am ordering a new hub and spokes Saturday anyway. I will take it apart again Friday and check again, if it has moved, I was thinking of putting it back with JB Weld until parts arrive. What do you think?
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:18 PM   #7581
Tom S
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Originally Posted by Drtyfun View Post
... What do you think?
I think Iíd have tried to shim it all around with something real thin & just run it. You can buy very thin stainless steel shim material in different thicknesses. Hell, you could probably still try it. Might even start out with a cut up aluminum beer can. You can cut that stuff with scissors. 0.0035Ē thick.



Probably way too thick since it most likely was not all that loose & will work just fine as is. You would need 0.007Ē of total clearance.
I wouldnít try the JB Weld. If you do that it will most likely be stuck in there for good, or you, or someone else, would play hell getting it out & never have the chance to fix it in another, better, way.
Itís your money.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:20 AM   #7582
Drtyfun
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Originally Posted by Tom S View Post
I think Iíd have tried to shim it all around with something real thin & just run it. You can buy very thin stainless steel shim material in different thicknesses. Hell, you could probably still try it. Might even start out with a cut up aluminum beer can. You can cut that stuff with scissors. 0.0035Ē thick.
Probably way too thick since it most likely was not all that loose & will work just fine as is. You would need 0.007Ē of total clearance.
I wouldnít try the JB Weld. If you do that it will most likely be stuck in there for good, or you, or someone else, would play hell getting it out & never have the chance to fix it in another, better, way.
Itís your money.
I like the beer can shim idea better, Thanks! As far as the hub, I am ordering a new one this weekend, probably will take a week or so to get it. I am just trying to buy time if the loctite fails to hold it. Thanks again.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:38 PM   #7583
woofer2609
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Originally Posted by Drtyfun View Post
I like the beer can shim idea better, Thanks! As far as the hub, I am ordering a new one this weekend, probably will take a week or so to get it. I am just trying to buy time if the loctite fails to hold it. Thanks again.
+1 for the beer can shim. Even if you know it won't work before you start, the worst thing you've done is enjoy a beer
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:33 AM   #7584
n16ht5
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Hey, I can't get the exhaust tip off on my father in laws 2001 XT225. We drilled out the rusted frozen bolt on the underside but I can't get the tip off the end. We have sprayed WD40 all over the lip and let it sit for a few days to no avail with a big rubber mallet. Afraid of damaging it by hitting it harder.

Any tricks? Is there something else holding it on?
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:06 AM   #7585
Reposado1800
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Originally Posted by Drtyfun View Post
Loctite and stake so far is holding. I am ordering a new hub and spokes Saturday anyway. I will take it apart again Friday and check again, if it has moved, I was thinking of putting it back with JB Weld until parts arrive. What do you think?
That loctite green is seriously strong stuff. If it can hold a bearing in on a 69 oldsmobile that weighs like 6,000 lbs an XT225 is nothing.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:39 PM   #7586
TTRPaul
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insert

@n16ht5 The same thing happened to me. I drilled out the screw but in so doing damaged the thing enoough to want to still hold the insert in place. What I did was take 3 screw drivers and GENTLY pryed the insert in three places at once. My two hands and my neighbors one. It didn't take much to get it moving. After doing the hole in the muffler I spot welded the insert in place. (I made sure it ran better first).
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:04 PM   #7587
J5k
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Ttr225 gas tank?

Does anyone know if the ttr225 gas tank bolts up to the xt225? I noticed some rust in my carb bowl when I did the jets. I know there's the Clarke tank but I don't need capacity, I'm more looking to get rid of the rust, be a hair lighter and a bit more dent resistant. If not the ttr, any info on other (cheap) plastic tanks anyone has fitted would be great.

J5k screwed with this post 09-20-2012 at 06:07 PM Reason: My phone sucks at posting
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:14 PM   #7588
J5k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n16ht5 View Post
Hey, I can't get the exhaust tip off on my father in laws 2001 XT225. We drilled out the rusted frozen bolt on the underside but I can't get the tip off the end. We have sprayed WD40 all over the lip and let it sit for a few days to no avail with a big rubber mallet. Afraid of damaging it by hitting it harder.

Any tricks? Is there something else holding it on?
Have you tried heat? If you can find a short piece of steel pipe (thicker wall the better) that fits snug in the end of the exhaust, you should be able to heat the exhaust and pop the end cap right out. The pipe should soak up the heat and allow the exhaust to expand. Just don't set your bike on fire! (ps, no idea if this will work as I've never done it for this particular application)
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:26 PM   #7589
Tom S
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Originally Posted by J5k View Post
I noticed some rust in my carb bowl when I did the jets.
I donít think it is that unusual to find very small particles of what may appear to be rust in the bottom of float bowls. Seen it many times. But I donít think it is necessarily always rust. The important thing is what it looks like inside your tank. Drain it out & take a real good look in there. I have rarely added filters but maybe thatís all you need. A small in line filter.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:09 PM   #7590
J5k
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I donít think it is that unusual to find very small particles of what may appear to be rust in the bottom of float bowls. Seen it many times. But I donít think it is necessarily always rust. The important thing is what it looks like inside your tank. Drain it out & take a real good look in there. I have rarely added filters but maybe thatís all you need. A small in line filter.
An inline filter is on its way. What I was told by the po was that he bought it for his wife in 06 for her to learn on. That didn't happen. Every spring he drained the gas (put it in his lawn mower), rode it to get inspected and filled it back up only to sit in the garage the rest of the year. I'll pull the tank again and take a look, but I still would like to know if a plastic tank exists that will bolt up with minimal modification (preferably to the tank not the bike).
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