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Old 09-21-2012, 11:25 AM   #24316
bobnoxious67
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I just sold my '06 with over 16,000 miles with a broken battery tray...with the original battery
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #24317
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
I just sold my '06 with over 16,000 miles with a broken battery tray...with the original battery
I think the FI bike are a bit harder on the batteries. Being that yours only starts the bike and i would think the stator runs the lights, your battery lead a very easy life.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:03 PM   #24318
BrandonR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
Yes, After seeing the electrical system output on the scope without the battery I can't believe they didn't build something that simple into the electrical system from the factory.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:18 PM   #24319
Rattletrap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
Would be nice if there was a clear writeup of this, either here or on CH

Yes! A nice "How To" video would be helpful.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:43 PM   #24320
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonR View Post
Yes, After seeing the electrical system output on the scope without the battery I can't believe they didn't build something that simple into the electrical system from the factory.
I can't believe they used playdough bolts for the subframe and footpegs
I can't believe they took away the compression adjustments on the front shocks in 2008
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still
I can't believe...

Post up a more detailed writeup of your fix, Brandon
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:34 PM   #24321
Dualsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still

Big Dogs old worn TE shifts like butter.
Neutral is sooo smooth to find. Beat the heck out of it and somewhere around 30 - 35k it will loosen up
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:36 PM   #24322
bobnoxious67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dualsport View Post
Big Dogs old worn TE shifts like butter.
Neutral is sooo smooth to find. Beat the heck out of it and somewhere around 30 - 35k it will loosen up
Yeah, gotta say mine shifted and found neutral pretty smooth too.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:31 PM   #24323
shootis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
Would be nice if there was a clear writeup of this, either here or on CH
If I understood Brandon correctly, you would hook up the cap as shown below and get a jump start. The positive cable is on the left and the arrows on the capacitor point to the negative cable.

Once started you would want to make sure the terminals were taped off to prevent shorts.

Maybe the best/easiest way to go is to wire in a battery tender ring terminal hookup on the battery end, and use the alligator clamp set up for the jumper cables,,,

ETA: Well I just looked at my battery tender and the colors on the clamps would be ass backwards but should be fine otherwise.

Clear as mud?

I'm off on a long DS this weekend and just made the set up pictured, so I hope I got it right. I'm sure Brandon will be along soon to confirm!



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Old 09-21-2012, 07:32 PM   #24324
xymotic
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Location: Federal Way, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I can't believe they used playdough bolts for the subframe and footpegs
I can't believe they took away the compression adjustments on the front shocks in 2008
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still
I can't believe...

Post up a more detailed writeup of your fix, Brandon
I can't believe nobody realized that the kickstand was an April Fool's day joke.

Oh, and let's talk about the instrument cluster(f*ck)
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:21 PM   #24325
AntWest
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Hi All, Just done an oil change on my bike and decided to check out the screens.
07 with ~11k km on the clock. Typical oil change is every 1k km.

1) The left side had heaps of crap on it, metal filings, black plastic and a few bristle like strands? Also I shined a torch into the recess and there was heaps of crap in there too, big bits of plastic mostly. It's possible these have never been cleaned since new, first time for me and I am the 2nd owner.

2) Right side mostly clean but, cluch basket, grabbed and gave it a wiggle, bit of movement there ~1-2mm on the outer. Is this the flogged out bush syndrome? How long can I ride it like this? got a 100km ride tomorrow and ~ 400km next weekend. Will it hold up?

3) As I had the side cover off for the first time the oil pump got dismantled too, I've since closed the motor up and filled it with new oil, turned it over on the button for 2-3 sec 2 times then stopped. Is there any need to prime this oil pump? I put some new oil into it after cleaning and re assembly but I'm not sure it will start to draw oil once I start it up and idle it.

I gotta say, some things I notice when working on this bike make me wonder what the Italians were thinking but those oil screens are very well made, stainless, and looked like new.

From the above banter, mine still has the original battery, needed to weld up the battery holder tho once.

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Old 09-22-2012, 04:50 AM   #24326
FXRBILL
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Ant go over here for help http://www.cafehusky.com/
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:37 AM   #24327
singletrak
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I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

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Old 09-22-2012, 08:48 AM   #24328
Taranis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still
Motul 300V fixes this.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:57 AM   #24329
shootis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singletrak View Post
I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

Singletrak
I'm looking at the X2 DOT light also. I think the beam cut off would be better for not pissing off on coming drivers at night.

Here's a comparison of the patterns: http://trailtech.net/x2.html
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #24330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singletrak View Post
I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

Singletrak
They have the regular X2, Model specific X2 ( plugs right in ) and they have the HID X2. The X2 and mod specific X2 are the same, just ones easy to install and a few more $. The HID X2 is $200-300. That's all I've seen. This dual sport X2 is new to me.

Edit: I just looked at the link and sure enough I saw the dual sport one. Funny I never saw that before. Let us know which one you get and how well it works.
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