Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[huzar]

Originally Posted by BrandonR

Yes, After seeing the electrical system output on the scope without the battery I can't believe they didn't build something that simple into the electrical system from the factory.

I can't believe they used playdough bolts for the subframe and footpegs
I can't believe they took away the compression adjustments on the front shocks in 2008
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still
I can't believe...

Post up a more detailed writeup of your fix, Brandon

[Dualsport]

Originally Posted by huzar

I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still

Big Dogs old worn TE shifts like butter.
Neutral is sooo smooth to find. Beat the heck out of it and somewhere around 30 - 35k it will loosen up

[bobnoxious67]

Originally Posted by Dualsport

Big Dogs old worn TE shifts like butter.
Neutral is sooo smooth to find. Beat the heck out of it and somewhere around 30 - 35k it will loosen up

Yeah, gotta say mine shifted and found neutral pretty smooth too.

[shootis]

Originally Posted by huzar

Would be nice if there was a clear writeup of this, either here or on CH

If I understood Brandon correctly, you would hook up the cap as shown below and get a jump start. The positive cable is on the left and the arrows on the capacitor point to the negative cable.

Once started you would want to make sure the terminals were taped off to prevent shorts.

Maybe the best/easiest way to go is to wire in a battery tender ring terminal hookup on the battery end, and use the alligator clamp set up for the jumper cables,,,

ETA: Well I just looked at my battery tender and the colors on the clamps would be ass backwards but should be fine otherwise.

Clear as mud?

I'm off on a long DS this weekend and just made the set up pictured, so I hope I got it right. I'm sure Brandon will be along soon to confirm!

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by huzar

I can't believe they used playdough bolts for the subframe and footpegs
I can't believe they took away the compression adjustments on the front shocks in 2008
I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still
I can't believe...

Post up a more detailed writeup of your fix, Brandon

I can't believe nobody realized that the kickstand was an April Fool's day joke.

Oh, and let's talk about the instrument cluster(f*ck)

[AntWest]

Hi All, Just done an oil change on my bike and decided to check out the screens.
07 with ~11k km on the clock. Typical oil change is every 1k km.

1) The left side had heaps of crap on it, metal filings, black plastic and a few bristle like strands? Also I shined a torch into the recess and there was heaps of crap in there too, big bits of plastic mostly. It's possible these have never been cleaned since new, first time for me and I am the 2nd owner.

2) Right side mostly clean but, cluch basket, grabbed and gave it a wiggle, bit of movement there ~1-2mm on the outer. Is this the flogged out bush syndrome? How long can I ride it like this? got a 100km ride tomorrow and ~ 400km next weekend. Will it hold up?

3) As I had the side cover off for the first time the oil pump got dismantled too, I've since closed the motor up and filled it with new oil, turned it over on the button for 2-3 sec 2 times then stopped. Is there any need to prime this oil pump? I put some new oil into it after cleaning and re assembly but I'm not sure it will start to draw oil once I start it up and idle it.

I gotta say, some things I notice when working on this bike make me wonder what the Italians were thinking but those oil screens are very well made, stainless, and looked like new.

From the above banter, mine still has the original battery, needed to weld up the battery holder tho once.

Ant.

[FXRBILL]

Ant go over here for help http://www.cafehusky.com/

[singletrak]

I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

Singletrak

[Taranis]

Originally Posted by huzar

I can't believe it's impossible to find neutral on that transmission if standing still

Motul 300V fixes this.

[shootis]

Originally Posted by singletrak

I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

Singletrak

I'm looking at the X2 DOT light also. I think the beam cut off would be better for not pissing off on coming drivers at night.

Here's a comparison of the patterns: http://trailtech.net/x2.html

[1 lunger]

Originally Posted by singletrak

I want to get the Trail Tech X2 headlight for my TE610. There is the standard X2 and X2 Dual sport version. The dual sport version is DOT approved, not sure what makes it DOT approved and what are the differrence between the two lights? Standard X2 is 80-90 dollars, the dual sport version 110-130 dollars. What are you using on your dual sports? The DOT version? Any problems using the standard X2 on my TE610?

Singletrak

They have the regular X2, Model specific X2 ( plugs right in ) and they have the HID X2. The X2 and mod specific X2 are the same, just ones easy to install and a few more $. The HID X2 is $200-300. That's all I've seen. This dual sport X2 is new to me.

Edit: I just looked at the link and sure enough I saw the dual sport one. Funny I never saw that before. Let us know which one you get and how well it works.

[Rattletrap]

I have the X2 halogen DOT version. Been running it for about 3 years now. My complaint is the dim light. While better than the original Husky light, it still sucks. I changed both bulbs (bright and dim) to 55 watt, while it really helped the bright light, it didn't do much for the dim light. I have a couple of PIAA lights on the side of my forks I run in addition to the X2. I point the PIAA's down more if I'm riding the highway. But in answer to your question, yes I like the X2, and have had zero problems with it.

[shootis]

Originally Posted by Rattletrap

I have the X2 halogen DOT version. Been running it for about 3 years now. My complaint is the dim light. While better than the original Husky light, it still sucks. I changed both bulbs (bright and dim) to 55 watt, while it really helped the bright light, it didn't do much for the dim light. I have a couple of PIAA lights on the side of my forks I run in addition to the X2. I point the PIAA's down more if I'm riding the highway. But in answer to your question, yes I like the X2, and have had zero problems with it.

Did you reuse the Husky wiring harness or run the light off of relays wired back to the battery?

Thanks!

[Countdown]

Originally Posted by AntWest

Is there any need to prime this oil pump? I put some new oil into it after cleaning and re assembly but I'm not sure it will start to draw oil once I start it up and idle it..

When working on autos, I always fill oil pump with white grease.

[uska]

08' te610 2400mi. ridden hard

Hi moto addicts. A bit of a situation here...
2 Days ago set my valve clearances, and installed an mcct from ape. Started right up after sweating a few hours on how to set the mcct as i could only feel the cold metal of the bolt and no internal part movement ... Anyway i think and hope i got that sorted out.. well kind of, so any advice helps. I have read installation tips but they're not much help as i have a hard time 'feeling' the internal parts through the bolt.

Anyway THATS NOT THE PROBLEM!
After all decided to replace all the oem crappy bolts with some nice SS hex head ones. Removed the clutch and stator covers for inspection of the very nice things inside.
Well now I got a new sound comin from the clutch side that sounds like a soft rattling purr... THAT IS UNTIL THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED, when clutch is engaged it goes away.

Any ideas of what it might be? What the hell did i screw up?

I have not checked tightened the gears as it was 2am and i did not have such a big wrench to make sure my counter balancer is tight and all. Ill do it later

I owe a brewski to whoever leads me to light.