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Old 09-22-2012, 05:53 PM   #24331
Rattletrap
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Location: Heart of Dixie
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I have the X2 halogen DOT version. Been running it for about 3 years now. My complaint is the dim light. While better than the original Husky light, it still sucks. I changed both bulbs (bright and dim) to 55 watt, while it really helped the bright light, it didn't do much for the dim light. I have a couple of PIAA lights on the side of my forks I run in addition to the X2. I point the PIAA's down more if I'm riding the highway. But in answer to your question, yes I like the X2, and have had zero problems with it.
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Old 09-22-2012, 06:13 PM   #24332
shootis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattletrap View Post
I have the X2 halogen DOT version. Been running it for about 3 years now. My complaint is the dim light. While better than the original Husky light, it still sucks. I changed both bulbs (bright and dim) to 55 watt, while it really helped the bright light, it didn't do much for the dim light. I have a couple of PIAA lights on the side of my forks I run in addition to the X2. I point the PIAA's down more if I'm riding the highway. But in answer to your question, yes I like the X2, and have had zero problems with it.
Did you reuse the Husky wiring harness or run the light off of relays wired back to the battery?

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:41 PM   #24333
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Originally Posted by AntWest View Post
Is there any need to prime this oil pump? I put some new oil into it after cleaning and re assembly but I'm not sure it will start to draw oil once I start it up and idle it..
When working on autos, I always fill oil pump with white grease.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:51 PM   #24334
uska
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ughh, this is crazy, so help me maybe?

08' te610 2400mi. ridden hard

Hi moto addicts. A bit of a situation here...
2 Days ago set my valve clearances, and installed an mcct from ape. Started right up after sweating a few hours on how to set the mcct as i could only feel the cold metal of the bolt and no internal part movement ... Anyway i think and hope i got that sorted out.. well kind of, so any advice helps. I have read installation tips but they're not much help as i have a hard time 'feeling' the internal parts through the bolt.

Anyway THATS NOT THE PROBLEM!
After all decided to replace all the oem crappy bolts with some nice SS hex head ones. Removed the clutch and stator covers for inspection of the very nice things inside.
Well now I got a new sound comin from the clutch side that sounds like a soft rattling purr... THAT IS UNTIL THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED, when clutch is engaged it goes away.

Any ideas of what it might be? What the hell did i screw up?

I have not checked tightened the gears as it was 2am and i did not have such a big wrench to make sure my counter balancer is tight and all. Ill do it later

I owe a brewski to whoever leads me to light.

uska screwed with this post 09-22-2012 at 09:23 PM
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:20 AM   #24335
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
08' te610 2400mi. ridden hard

Hi moto addicts. A bit of a situation here...
2 Days ago set my valve clearances, and installed an mcct from ape. Started right up after sweating a few hours on how to set the mcct as i could only feel the cold metal of the bolt and no internal part movement ... Anyway i think and hope i got that sorted out.. well kind of, so any advice helps. I have read installation tips but they're not much help as i have a hard time 'feeling' the internal parts through the bolt.

Anyway THATS NOT THE PROBLEM!
After all decided to replace all the oem crappy bolts with some nice SS hex head ones. Removed the clutch and stator covers for inspection of the very nice things inside.
Well now I got a new sound comin from the clutch side that sounds like a soft rattling purr... THAT IS UNTIL THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED, when clutch is engaged it goes away.

Any ideas of what it might be? What the hell did i screw up?

I have not checked tightened the gears as it was 2am and i did not have such a big wrench to make sure my counter balancer is tight and all. Ill do it later

I owe a brewski to whoever leads me to light.
Those little pegs that line up the side cover like to fall out and could have fallen in the case. The Ape is easy, just measure the ACCT and set the new one to the same or maybe 1/8 turn less.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:04 AM   #24336
uska
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Tell me more about the little pegs? I had no idea there was anythinh loose in there. How would pulling the clutch eliminate the sound?
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:15 AM   #24337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Tell me more about the little pegs? I had no idea there was anythinh loose in there. How would pulling the clutch eliminate the sound?
if there's a chunk of metal on there, it's making noise when it hits spinning parts. When you engage clutch, it stops spinning


The pins are in-between the cover and the case. on my bike the rear one "usually" stays in the case and the forward comes off with the cover. But I have spent like two hours looking for one in the grass before
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:52 AM   #24338
StolenFant
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Originally Posted by BrandonR View Post
It explains why the bike shuts down when there's no battery. And shows there's no crazy spikes in voltage as someone speculated. The bike can be more reliable with a simple capacitor added to the system, this shows it graphically. I believe it also may explain why they have so many batteries fail (Shitty charging method).
Brandon, thanks for info and the proof. Have you posted photos of this install, and specs on that capacitor?
Thanks
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:28 AM   #24339
uska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
if there's a chunk of metal on there, it's making noise when it hits spinning parts. When you engage clutch, it stops spinning


The pins are in-between the cover and the case. on my bike the rear one "usually" stays in the case and the forward comes off with the cover. But I have spent like two hours looking for one in the grass before
Is it the same pin thats in the oil pump?
What are the chances something broke
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:46 PM   #24340
tlking6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StolenFant View Post
Brandon, thanks for info and the proof. Have you posted photos of this install, and specs on that capacitor?
Thanks
X2.
Do you leave the Cap in all the time or just install it if theres an issue?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #24341
Rattletrap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
Did you reuse the Husky wiring harness or run the light off of relays wired back to the battery?

Thanks!
I run the lights off relays I bought from "Eastern Beaver". It is some quality kit. I also ordered some waterproof connectors. My X2 didn't come with some of the parts I needed to wire straight up, so I had to do some splicing.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:12 AM   #24342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
If I understood Brandon correctly, you would hook up the cap as shown below and get a jump start. The positive cable is on the left and the arrows on the capacitor point to the negative cable.

Once started you would want to make sure the terminals were taped off to prevent shorts.

Maybe the best/easiest way to go is to wire in a battery tender ring terminal hookup on the battery end, and use the alligator clamp set up for the jumper cables,,,

ETA: Well I just looked at my battery tender and the colors on the clamps would be ass backwards but should be fine otherwise.

Clear as mud?

I'm off on a long DS this weekend and just made the set up pictured, so I hope I got it right. I'm sure Brandon will be along soon to confirm!


Now I'm more confused. I thought you keep the battery and add the cap. What's the deal?
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:15 AM   #24343
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If I understood Brandon's video correctly, the pictured setup would get you up and running once you had a jump start.

You would use this if your battery crapped out totally and needed to get back home.

I also read that perhaps the setup would help filter the voltage going to the battery and provide it with a longer life.

Hopefully he'll be along soon to verify this.

This is quoted from one of his posts:

It explains why the bike shuts down when there's no battery. And shows there's no crazy spikes in voltage as someone speculated. The bike can be more reliable with a simple capacitor added to the system, this shows it graphically. I believe it also may explain why they have so many batteries fail (Shitty charging method).
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:11 PM   #24344
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Charin waveform

So much discussion on the capacitor and much confusion. I used to design power supplies for a living. The results in the video are quite predictable and not a problem,. In fact quite normal.

There are filtered and unfiltered charging systems. Most vehicles with alternators are unfiltered and use the very low internal resistance of the (good condition) battery as part of the component design for charging current and voltage output and the (good) battery provides the filtering. The alternator provides AC and rectifers (aka diodes) chop teh negative portion of the AC waveform to create a very rough DC voltage. A large enough capacitor can be of use to help filter the chopped AC waveform in the event a battery goes south. Maybe some devices in a system are sensitive to damage from an unfiltered waveform. For our bikes, that is specualtion still. For other bikes that do not require a battery to start and run (like the Carb'd TE450) all components are designed to run on poorly filtered DC power or have some minimal filtering added, or use a DC generator. The filtering is commonly a capacitor plugged into the wiring harness somewhere like under the seat. Some components on these bikes have filtering at the component where it matters. Light bulbs do not care about waveform They convert power to light and heat. Ignition systems do care as some parts of them need to be tightly voltage regulated.

Filtered supplies are common in non-battery powered devices or and communication systems where ripple voltage may cause noise and affect their function. Think of AC whine in a home stereo system or 2-way radio. For small systems/devices an external supply contains the filters (capacitors, inductors, resistors in some combo) to lower the component count inside the smaller device profile (think wall warts connected to a small phone). AC to DC conversion power systems function by rectifying the AC voltage - meaning chopping off the negative side of the waveform. Filtered and unfiltered systems my be voltage regulated and/or current limited. Systems with relatively large batteries, or that use power line noise tolerant components may use a lightly or totally unfiltered power supply.

The service manual shows the design of the TE610 voltage reglator (VR). It chops the 3 phase AC and combines all 3 phases to make rough DC. It regulates that voltage by controlling how much of the waveform is chopped. It has uppper and lower limits. For example, it cannot shut off completely and it requires a minimum load to maintain regulation. Too much load and the alternator cannot supply enough and the voltage droops. The VR makes little attempt to filter the voltage in an effort to contain the size of the unit and increase heat tolerance. Most capacitors do not like heat and they can be relatively large. I am sure cost savings count as well. The battery is close by and provides all the filtering needed -- as long as the battery is in decent condition.

Summary:
Large batteries can swamp the ripple or chopped waveforms such as seen on the oscilloscope when the battery was disconnected. When a battery goes south, it may no longer be able to filter the supply enough to satisfy all components in the system. It is possible the other devices in the system cannot tolerate the now unfiltered power. A capacitor can help filter the power in the event the battery fails to filter properly and help voltage senstive components get the relatively clean DC power they need to function correctly. There is very little downside to incorporating a large capacitor to your system, but it must be of sufficient voltage rating.

Whether the TE610 can start up on power filtered by the capacitor alone requires calculation or experimentation (as some have done already). Some systems like the FIs need to draw a fair amount of DC power to get started, This is when push starting can help (if you can) since it can create longer duration power at higher RPM (vs. kick start) to get things charged up enough to function. Too much load can exceed the ability of the capacitor to filter it cleanly. The charging system design is quite common and is like most other designs out there for many years and does the job. It depends on the battery is all. So does your car.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:50 PM   #24345
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FYI- Look at this on eBay:

TE / SM 610 Sub Frame 2006-2009

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19680300

or see it here.

1 lunger screwed with this post 09-25-2012 at 07:25 PM
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