Dual Sport Trailer assembly thread - Page 38

DakarNick · 09-23-2012, 09:01 AM

If there were two nuts, I would drill them. Since there is only one nut, I would need to drill it out to the same inside diameter of the axle, because the other side is open (nutless) and the axle tube is like 40mm or something.

I have tried to get in touch with Mr. Bracket but no responses yet.

The lugs on the swingarm are for crash pegs and rear wheel stands, I learned.

DakarNick · 09-23-2012, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oPAULo

That's a $398.36 KTM nut!! You don't drill those....

Ha, "only" $10.

Good news! I took the nut off to measure the inside axle diameter. 11/16". Grind the top of the nut off and I'll go from there, I figured.

Digging in my scrap steel bucket I find an 11/16" OD tube that fits PERFECTLY inside the axle. Now, to just figure out how to put some bushings on it and adapt it.

MrBracket · 09-23-2012, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DakarNick

Ha, "only" $10.

Good news! I took the nut off to measure the inside axle diameter. 11/16". Grind the top of the nut off and I'll go from there, I figured.

Digging in my scrap steel bucket I find an 11/16" OD tube that fits PERFECTLY inside the axle. Now, to just figure out how to put some bushings on it and adapt it.

Hey DakarNick,
I simply buy the standard KTM nuts and machine the end off in a lathe. You could just sand the capped end off of yours.

Looks great!

DakarNick · 09-25-2012, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrBracket

Hey DakarNick,
I simply buy the standard KTM nuts and machine the end off in a lathe. You could just sand the capped end off of yours.

Looks great!

Thanks! I am redesigning for the axle mount. I ground the top of the nut off and have some bushings on order from McMaster-Carr.

I'm trying to build slowly since I probably won't have it done before the snow flies and it will make a good winter project but it's so fun to build.

DakarNick · 09-27-2012, 07:26 PM

Hi guys. Here's an update.

I made some brackets for the axle. I'll probably run 1/2" tube where the balsa strips are. The cut in the steel is so I could bend the ends of the V-shaped bracket toward the wheel. I'll then weld the "crack" and the other joint. The balsa also helped me bend the metal just enough to maintain wheel clearance.

I had to adapt the trailer axle to my bike axle. The bike axle is 11/16" ID. I found a tube that was 11/16" OD and 9/16" ID. But it wasn't long enough so I decided to run all-thread as the actual axle. The tube is just a reducer. I'm running two 9/16" OD x 7/16" ID bronze bushings inside the tube and then using a 7/16" all thread as the live axle.

Here is a pic showing an "exploded" view of how it all stacks together.

The nut will be replaced with a nylock nut. The bike's axle doesn't sit flush with the large axle nut, so the two zinc washers bring it flush and prevent any rubbing. The bronze washer will be drilled out to 7/16" and sit opposite the flange on the outside of the bushing. This will allow the threaded adapter (once cut down) to sit between the flange and the washer on top bushing.

This is an assembled view. Like I said, the nut will be a nylock, and the zinc washer is taking the place of the bronze washer that I need to drill out. The cut down threaded adapter will sit in this "channel". The bracket will be drilled and the threaded adapter will be welded in this hole. Both V-brackets will then be able to rotate freely on the bushings.

oPAULo · 09-27-2012, 08:18 PM

Looking good Nick! I like that setup. Looks beefy. That particular part of the trailer is most critical. If any other part of the trailer fails it probably wouldn't be too bad but if that part failed and got into the rear wheel?.....ouch.
I wouldn't trust a locking nut forever though. Maybe a longer piece of allthread that is drilled on the end for a cotter pin.
Through my whole build I kept thinking about the worst that could happen and that skewer coming out or breaking would be very bad.

I'm hoping to have some paint pics soon. Almost done tweaking and ready to tear it apart.

DakarNick · 09-27-2012, 08:37 PM

Thanks, Paul! I think I will weld the nut on one end. On the open end I can notch a flat spot and cross drill for a cotter pin to back up the nut.

oPAULo · 09-29-2012, 03:29 PM

Primered and painted. Think I'm done with it. Maybe a nice polished wheel and some new shocks.

Cut the brake drum off the wheel and made a spacer.

Danger4u2 · 09-29-2012, 06:38 PM

From conception to completion seemed to go fast. Nice work, looks factory.

We're ready for the moto cross video.

ag_streak · 10-05-2012, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oPAULo

Primered and painted. Think I'm done with it. Maybe a nice polished wheel and some new shocks.

oPAULo, that's friggin' awesome!

DakarNick, very impressive, well thought-out engineerin'!

ag_streak · 10-05-2012, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DakarNick

...Most of the cost will be in a tire and shock...

Scooter shop!

Got mine for $10 bucks.

Edit: Tire and wheel for $10 bucks, not the shock...

oPAULo · 10-07-2012, 04:07 PM

Good friend was drooling all over mine so we made another.
2 of us built it in 7 hours including lunch, football and Nascar breaks.
No, I am not selling these.

DakarNick · 10-08-2012, 08:50 AM

Nice, Paul! I have seven hours in mine just running to Ace Hardware, ordering from McMaster-Carr, and making the bracket

thatboatguy · 10-09-2012, 10:29 AM

Starting my trailer build. I am starting at the bike and working my way back. It's going to be a single wheel job. I can get all my camping gear for a weekend into belly bag, saddle bags and back rack but I can't do all that *and* carry my glider. I built a cargo box that bolts to the back rack but with all my gear and the wing stacked to the moon the bike is too light on the front end and doesn't handle well, particularly on mountain roads (which is where I need to go fly anyway). Thanks to everyone posting in this thread for inspiration.

I had some stainless bar stock around from a project I never completed so I'm using that for my hitch attachments.

Spot welded the indexing plate. Some day I'll make myself a CNC machine. For now I have to fab stuff.

I'm not sure this gusset is necessary but it was easy to add so...

Right side temporary installed on the bike. I wont drill it for the attachment until I've made the trailer forks up. Back to the scrap pile to see what's available.

Pitster · 10-09-2012, 08:52 PM

Here is a link to my trailer build for a KTM 950se. If I did it again I would lighten it up but overall it works great!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=751844

09-23-2012, 09:01 AM	#556
DakarNick Swabee Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Parker, Colorado Oddometer: 5,503	If there were two nuts, I would drill them. Since there is only one nut, I would need to drill it out to the same inside diameter of the axle, because the other side is open (nutless) and the axle tube is like 40mm or something. I have tried to get in touch with Mr. Bracket but no responses yet. The lugs on the swingarm are for crash pegs and rear wheel stands, I learned. __________________ 06 KTM 950 Adventure S 08 Dodge 2500, QC Shortbed, Cummins 6-speed auto, Big Horn

09-27-2012, 07:26 PM	#560
DakarNick Swabee Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Parker, Colorado Oddometer: 5,503	Hi guys. Here's an update. I made some brackets for the axle. I'll probably run 1/2" tube where the balsa strips are. The cut in the steel is so I could bend the ends of the V-shaped bracket toward the wheel. I'll then weld the "crack" and the other joint. The balsa also helped me bend the metal just enough to maintain wheel clearance. I had to adapt the trailer axle to my bike axle. The bike axle is 11/16" ID. I found a tube that was 11/16" OD and 9/16" ID. But it wasn't long enough so I decided to run all-thread as the actual axle. The tube is just a reducer. I'm running two 9/16" OD x 7/16" ID bronze bushings inside the tube and then using a 7/16" all thread as the live axle. Here is a pic showing an "exploded" view of how it all stacks together. The nut will be replaced with a nylock nut. The bike's axle doesn't sit flush with the large axle nut, so the two zinc washers bring it flush and prevent any rubbing. The bronze washer will be drilled out to 7/16" and sit opposite the flange on the outside of the bushing. This will allow the threaded adapter (once cut down) to sit between the flange and the washer on top bushing. This is an assembled view. Like I said, the nut will be a nylock, and the zinc washer is taking the place of the bronze washer that I need to drill out. The cut down threaded adapter will sit in this "channel". The bracket will be drilled and the threaded adapter will be welded in this hole. Both V-brackets will then be able to rotate freely on the bushings. __________________ 06 KTM 950 Adventure S 08 Dodge 2500, QC Shortbed, Cummins 6-speed auto, Big Horn

09-27-2012, 08:37 PM	#562
DakarNick Swabee Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Parker, Colorado Oddometer: 5,503	Thanks, Paul! I think I will weld the nut on one end. On the open end I can notch a flat spot and cross drill for a cotter pin to back up the nut. __________________ 06 KTM 950 Adventure S 08 Dodge 2500, QC Shortbed, Cummins 6-speed auto, Big Horn

09-29-2012, 06:38 PM	#564
Danger4u2 KX & CR 500 Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: OKC Oddometer: 311	From conception to completion seemed to go fast. Nice work, looks factory. We're ready for the moto cross video. __________________ Go faster than everyone. Only worry about what's in front of you. '08KX500AFC(my favorite) '07KLR650 '04KX500(street legal) '97CR500R '06KLX250(351cc kit) '08KFX450R quad

10-08-2012, 08:50 AM	#568
DakarNick Swabee Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Parker, Colorado Oddometer: 5,503	Nice, Paul! I have seven hours in mine just running to Ace Hardware, ordering from McMaster-Carr, and making the bracket __________________ 06 KTM 950 Adventure S 08 Dodge 2500, QC Shortbed, Cummins 6-speed auto, Big Horn

09-27-2012, 08:18 PM	#561
oPAULo jack of all terrain Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Bedford, Indiana Oddometer: 2,991	Looking good Nick! I like that setup. Looks beefy. That particular part of the trailer is most critical. If any other part of the trailer fails it probably wouldn't be too bad but if that part failed and got into the rear wheel?.....ouch. I wouldn't trust a locking nut forever though. Maybe a longer piece of allthread that is drilled on the end for a cotter pin. Through my whole build I kept thinking about the worst that could happen and that skewer coming out or breaking would be very bad. I'm hoping to have some paint pics soon. Almost done tweaking and ready to tear it apart.

09-29-2012, 03:29 PM	#563
oPAULo jack of all terrain Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Bedford, Indiana Oddometer: 2,991	Primered and painted. Think I'm done with it. Maybe a nice polished wheel and some new shocks. Cut the brake drum off the wheel and made a spacer.

10-07-2012, 04:07 PM	#567
oPAULo jack of all terrain Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Bedford, Indiana Oddometer: 2,991	Good friend was drooling all over mine so we made another. 2 of us built it in 7 hours including lunch, football and Nascar breaks. No, I am not selling these.

10-09-2012, 10:29 AM	#569
thatboatguy That Boat Guy Joined: Oct 2012 Location: Edgewater MD Oddometer: 9	Starting my trailer build. I am starting at the bike and working my way back. It's going to be a single wheel job. I can get all my camping gear for a weekend into belly bag, saddle bags and back rack but I can't do all that and carry my glider. I built a cargo box that bolts to the back rack but with all my gear and the wing stacked to the moon the bike is too light on the front end and doesn't handle well, particularly on mountain roads (which is where I need to go fly anyway). Thanks to everyone posting in this thread for inspiration. I had some stainless bar stock around from a project I never completed so I'm using that for my hitch attachments. Spot welded the indexing plate. Some day I'll make myself a CNC machine. For now I have to fab stuff. I'm not sure this gusset is necessary but it was easy to add so... Right side temporary installed on the bike. I wont drill it for the attachment until I've made the trailer forks up. Back to the scrap pile to see what's available.

10-09-2012, 08:52 PM	#570
Pitster miniac Joined: Aug 2007 Oddometer: 343	Here is a link to my trailer build for a KTM 950se. If I did it again I would lighten it up but overall it works great!! http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=751844 __________________ www.pitsterpro.com Pitster Pro, Mini Bikes, Pit bikes and Play bikes, Side x Side, ATV www.nomadrider.com Adventure luggage and gear

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