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09-14-2012, 10:11 AM
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#46 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2005
Oddometer: 13
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Fantastic job,will make a brilliant bike.
Exhaust primaries have to be the same length within reason, the odd 25mm is not going to make much difference to power output on that motor. Keep up the good work. |
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09-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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#47 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Wellington,New Zealand
Oddometer: 2,203
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would not be the first motor i would think of for an adventure bike but they are a nice motor for sure....extremley interested to see how this goes.
__________________
aka BMWST?
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09-17-2012, 12:25 PM
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#48 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,025
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I'll try to cut n bend n weld to make them fit, but as I remember the all exhaust pipes have to be same lenght, right?
[/QUOTE]I don't remember who did it, but somebody got around that by making the shorter headpipe a larger diameter than the long ones. I don't know if it could be calculated by volume, but might be worth a shot. Love that frame btw. Nice build so far. |
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09-17-2012, 04:35 PM
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#49 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Sunshine coast qld
Oddometer: 4,245
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Unfourtunatley tuning an exhaust pipe is not about volume.
Diameter and length affect different things. If you have a look at the exhausts on a lot of multi cylinder production bikes you'll see there along way off being balanced. I'm not sure if it's done on purpose to spread the torque and power curve out or if they do it because it's easier and cheaper. If your looking for peak power and torque in a specific rpm range then youll get better figures if all the pipes are kept the same diameter and length. there are online programs for working out length, diameter and collectors to suit your engine size and valve timing but generally if you want a top end screamer go big bore short headers and if you want a tractor go long small bore headers. Ill find the link to a realy easy to use exaust calculator that was designed by a legened of the motorcycle tuning and racing community. |
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09-17-2012, 08:29 PM
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#50 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: The Bluegrass
Oddometer: 4,139
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Quote:
I don't remember who did it, but somebody got around that by making the shorter headpipe a larger diameter than the long ones. I don't know if it could be calculated by volume, but might be worth a shot. Love that frame btw. Nice build so far.[/QUOTE] Ducati did just that with , I think , the 999. The rear cylinders pipe was shorter and larger diameter. Supposedly it worked satisfactorly.
__________________
RR's Catnip Hill to Peoria ___Loopin' Seattle to WestFest It started with some beers __1500 miles to the Dentist Skeedaddle to Seattle______ A 30 year old on a Three Flags Run |
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09-18-2012, 11:05 AM
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#51 | |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Oddometer: 41
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Quote:
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09-18-2012, 11:16 AM
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#52 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Oddometer: 41
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Pipes
Tried to bend 1.5mm wall pipes today, but impossible with hand bender - creates the wawes and flattens
the pipe. Also tried with electric bender but it has too large radius, so it makes quite large bends. Result with hand bender ![]() Electric bender with large radius ![]() Waiting for the silencers to arrive then I'll continue with the pipes and fabricate the meeting joints, not the best looking result at the moment. Maybe I should use thicker walled pipe to be able to make smaller bends with hand bender? ![]() ![]()
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09-18-2012, 11:43 AM
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#53 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,025
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I know it's your build and you're doing an amazing job but it looks like you're using the headpipes for a skidplate
How about running the headpipes on either side of the sump ? That should also make the difference in length between the front and rear cylinder headpipes slightly less. |
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09-18-2012, 06:34 PM
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#54 | |
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Lampin' it
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 4,140
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Quote:
I have a tubing bender as well but it's really hard to get those small radius bends in thin wall tubing. I ended up buying prebent sections from cone engineering and then using my bender to make up other sections where I needed an exact angle. The prebent sections are $$$ though. I used 0.065" tubing and with a 1.25" die could get very nice almost perfect bends to 180 degrees. 1.5mm is 0.059" so pretty close to what I am using. I think for tight radius bends you pretty much need to go mandrel bent to prevent deforming.
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We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town. Nessmuk |
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09-18-2012, 08:03 PM
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#55 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Okie near Muskogee
Oddometer: 3,204
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__________________
www.throttlemeister.net |
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09-19-2012, 01:29 AM
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#56 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Vienna, Austria
Oddometer: 4,904
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Wow, custom frame, that's pretty bad ass!! Looks really nicely done too.
What's your plan for the fuel tanks? Will be watching this one.
__________________
Proud member of the HUSABERG ADVENTURE TEAM! '12 Husaberg FE570, 09 KTM XC-F/ 450 RFS hybrid, 07 KTM 450 SMR, 08+09 BMW F650GS twins/F800GS conversion, 03+05 YZF-R6 |
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09-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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#57 |
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Pro Turd Polisher
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Foote of duh Lake, Wiscowsin
Oddometer: 523
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For the pipes? Have you thought of the stuff-them-with-sand-and-cap-the-ends trick. Ive seen others do this with great success!
Great build, I LOL'ed at the term Makeover. This is a complte scratchbuilt bike!
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Jerry ____________________________ Great forum and Resource for 1st and 2nd gen Honda V4s SabMagIntercept www.v4hondabbs.com |
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09-26-2012, 09:23 AM
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#58 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Oddometer: 41
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...
Not much progress, still waiting for the silencers to arrive to continue with exhaust pipes.
Today got the 1150GS gas tank, bought from ebay. The tank has a dent on the right forward side so it was quite a bargain. Don't know is it a standard 22L or larger 30L version, but feels quite huge. Unfortunately it's not a straight fit and needs some modification. Still deciding, should I keep the looks of the tank and lose some capacitiy or should I widen it by some heavy cutting and welding! The color kinda suits the bike ![]() To loose capacity or...will loose alot I quess ![]() Dent on the right side
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09-26-2012, 10:24 AM
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#59 |
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Lampin' it
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 4,140
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With your fab skills, I'd seriously consider a tank from scratch. I've fought with modifying tanks before and usually the result is less than stellar.
You also could consider redoing the subframe and putting a couple gallons there by replacing the entire thing and plating in some tubes. I tried this on my last build and got 2.16 gallons under there. I'm thinking about making a new one with 4 gallons as it's my only tank. You could make a slim tank on top with 4-5 gallons and get 3 under the seat.
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We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town. Nessmuk |
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09-26-2012, 12:10 PM
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#60 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2009
Oddometer: 56
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I thought the point of use the ktm as the start point was to bolt on the ktm bits after the engine was in?
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