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Old 09-27-2012, 05:22 PM   #13171
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Not so easy to do.
yah, what exactly is the easiet way to check compression with these bikes? i have tried to kick mine over without decomp and its a beeeech! then i read about ppl cracking the cases so i never tried again. lol the person i got my bike from had it serviced before i bought it, the ppl @ dealership did comp chekcs while using the de-comp lever and reported on the work report that it was "low" on compression. I just giggled and said, yah it'll be ok. hahahaha
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:53 PM   #13172
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,736
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaukasion View Post
hey i just bought a 96 dr350se that hadnt been started or ran in a few years previous owner was a friend of mine that died it only has 6000 miles on it and was well maintained. the bad gas gunked up the carb pretty good it was running really erratic and would not idle after draining and fresh gas so i decided to take it apart and carb cleaner it out out good and i replaced the idle mixture screw with a longer one that i can adjust while on the bike, i replaced the petcock with the raptor one and i replaced the main and pilot jet with stockers and the bike is running and idling great seemingly, but the damn thing will only go 50mph at max while under load with me on it in 6th gear... i weigh about 215 lbs and was wondering if this is normal or because im a heavier rider? i thought this bike or at least all reviews of the bike ive read said it should top out closer to 70

if this isnt normal where should i start looking for my missing 20mph? it seems to be getting great fuel economy and has a smooth somewhat snappy throttle response and im puzzled. i have read through this thread a few times and you guys seem like the only collection of people i can find online that really have any experience with this exact bike everyone else is talking about the bigger brother of it. i love the bike it seems as durable as a tank and i dont want to not be able to go outside of town because i cant go fast enough :(
If you have the CV carb, I'll suggest the diaphragm is torn. That means that you are only getting about 1/4 throttle or less, even when you think you are WFO. Valve timing off by a tooth could also cause you to lose a lot of top end power (but would require PO to have taken it apart) and so could a plugged exhaust (wasp nest perhaps?)
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:07 PM   #13173
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
yah, what exactly is the easiet way to check compression with these bikes? i have tried to kick mine over without decomp and its a beeeech! then i read about ppl cracking the cases so i never tried again. lol the person i got my bike from had it serviced before i bought it, the ppl @ dealership did comp chekcs while using the de-comp lever and reported on the work report that it was "low" on compression. I just giggled and said, yah it'll be ok. hahahaha
If you don't have the automatic compression release, you could probably tow it. Be Carefull !!! Some ACRs hold the exhaust valve/s open a little while cranking to reduce cranking compression. Not sure how this one works. Hope I don't have occasion to find out. Might be able to loosen the exhaust valve clearence enough to by pass the ACR enough to check compression. I'm sure someone here will know if this will work or not.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:08 PM   #13174
dirtyleg
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Location: mid. mo
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happy trails

Just sent the DR350 down the road with new owner, Happy Trails to them.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:42 PM   #13175
Ghostyman
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Location: LA face with the Oakland booty
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Hard shifting

I just torqued my shift drum bolt and also found that my clutch basket bolt had been completely loosened and was only held on by the lock washer. I torqued it down to 40 ft.lbs and then reassembled everything. Now I can barely shift. The lever takes a lot of force and I can't get past 3rd gear.

I pulled the clutch cover and basket off. The problem seems to be related to the shift drum bolt itself. When I have the bolt torqued, I can barely change gears. When it's loose, I can switch gears. I was careful and torqued it to 8 ft.lbs. when reinstalling.

Any ideas?

Oh yeah, how much drag should there be when rotating the clutch basket? With the nut torqued to 40 ft.lbs, I could spin it by hand but it took a little effort. Is that normal or should it spin freely?

Ghostyman screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 03:05 AM Reason: Updated after I pulled the clutch
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:49 AM   #13176
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
I just torqued my shift drum bolt and also found that my clutch basket bolt had been completely loosened and was only held on by the lock washer. I torqued it down to 40 ft.lbs and then reassembled everything. Now I can barely shift. The lever takes a lot of force and I can't get past 3rd gear.

I pulled the clutch cover and basket off. The problem seems to be related to the shift drum bolt itself. When I have the bolt torqued, I can barely change gears. When it's loose, I can switch gears. I was careful and torqued it to 8 ft.lbs. when reinstalling.

Any ideas?

Oh yeah, how much drag should there be when rotating the clutch basket? With the nut torqued to 40 ft.lbs, I could spin it by hand but it took a little effort. Is that normal or should it spin freely?
Hmmm...did you maybe bend the "L" shaped piece with the spring on it? IME, it is hard to see any bends until you remove it and examine it. That *might* cause the symptoms you describe.

IIRC, the clutch basket should spin freely. Perhaps you need to clearance it?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:06 AM   #13177
Domromer
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Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Oddometer: 1,084
I did a search but couldn't find a dr250 thread...I just had to share this little gem with you guys..I wish I had more room in my garage..for me this is just about the perfect little dual sport..yes 100cc extra would be nice but damn the owner has this kitted out right..I have no connection with this bike..just in my local craigs list and I love little air cool thumpers.

http://charleston.craigslist.org/mcy/3301156297.html
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:49 AM   #13178
Crenshaw
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
New member with DR350 and oil consumption question.

Hi all, lurked here for a while while gleening valuable dr350 info before buying one. Let me first say thanks to everyone for contributing all the information on this site.

Here is my "new" beater 1990 DR350. It's a dirt model, titled and plated. Some kind of rear rack, IMS tank, other random bits like bark busters, PD rear sprocket, etc... Mileage unknown.
The PO only owned it for 6 months or so while he replaced the cam and rockers (worn due to suspected stint of running low on oil). He had only put about 30 miles on it while he owned it and acted like I was crazy for preparing to ride it 100+ home to Salida, CO from Colorado Springs. It held up just fine.
I've changed the oil, adjusted the valves, checked the filter, and she runs like a champ.

I've been putting some miles on it in the past few weeks and am really really impressed with it. For a guy who's been off of motorcycles for 5+ years and lacking experience riding off road, I think this is the best bike I could've stumbled in to.

However! It seems to burn more oil than it really ought to after prolonged highway running. It has 15/44 gearing on it and I don't run more than 65mph on the highway usually, so I don't feel like I'm beating on the engine too bad. Seems to hardly burn any oil if I'm just bombing around in the woods without running at high speed. I don't have a tach, so not sure of what rpms I'm turning on the highway.
I've heard these can burn a little after long stints of high rpms, but it seems like I have to add 100ml or so after every ride that includes that type of riding.

Bad rings? It runs great and feels like (to me) it has plenty of power. Runs just barely faster than my friends old DR400 from a roll. Compression feels pretty good though I don't usually find it necessary to use the decomp lever when starting.
Valve stem seals?

Where do you guys recommend getting parts from should I decide to refresh this thing this winter?




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Old 09-28-2012, 08:13 AM   #13179
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
However! It seems to burn more oil than it really ought to after prolonged highway running. It has 15/44 gearing on it and I don't run more than 65mph on the highway usually, so I don't feel like I'm beating on the engine too bad. Seems to hardly burn any oil if I'm just bombing around in the woods without running at high speed. I don't have a tach, so not sure of what rpms I'm turning on the highway.
I've heard these can burn a little after long stints of high rpms, but it seems like I have to add 100ml or so after every ride that includes that type of riding.

Bad rings? It runs great and feels like (to me) it has plenty of power. Runs just barely faster than my friends old DR400 from a roll. Compression feels pretty good though I don't usually find it necessary to use the decomp lever when starting.
Valve stem seals?

Where do you guys recommend getting parts from should I decide to refresh this thing this winter?
Welcome and good find! I've ridden my dirt model 1993 DR350 at 65 MPH all day long with 15/41 gearing - no problem at that speed. As for oil consumption, a couple of years ago I found a stuck oil ring that was causing my oil consumption problems. I fit new rings and had the cylinder ball-honed. My machinist also performed a basic valve grind, but the valves and guides were fine (I fit new valve guide seals at that time). Since then, oil consumption was greatly reduced. Oh, I'll still burn some when I go on long, multi-day trips, but nothing I'm concerned about.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:30 AM   #13180
rubberband
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
Hi all, lurked here for a while while gleening valuable dr350 info before buying one. Let me first say thanks to everyone for contributing all the information on this site.

Here is my "new" beater 1990 DR350. It's a dirt model, titled and plated. Some kind of rear rack, IMS tank, other random bits like bark busters, PD rear sprocket, etc... Mileage unknown.
The PO only owned it for 6 months or so while he replaced the cam and rockers (worn due to suspected stint of running low on oil). He had only put about 30 miles on it while he owned it and acted like I was crazy for preparing to ride it 100+ home to Salida, CO from Colorado Springs. It held up just fine.
I've changed the oil, adjusted the valves, checked the filter, and she runs like a champ.

I've been putting some miles on it in the past few weeks and am really really impressed with it. For a guy who's been off of motorcycles for 5+ years and lacking experience riding off road, I think this is the best bike I could've stumbled in to.

However! It seems to burn more oil than it really ought to after prolonged highway running. It has 15/44 gearing on it and I don't run more than 65mph on the highway usually, so I don't feel like I'm beating on the engine too bad. Seems to hardly burn any oil if I'm just bombing around in the woods without running at high speed. I don't have a tach, so not sure of what rpms I'm turning on the highway.
I've heard these can burn a little after long stints of high rpms, but it seems like I have to add 100ml or so after every ride that includes that type of riding.

Bad rings? It runs great and feels like (to me) it has plenty of power. Runs just barely faster than my friends old DR400 from a roll. Compression feels pretty good though I don't usually find it necessary to use the decomp lever when starting.
Valve stem seals?

Where do you guys recommend getting parts from should I decide to refresh this thing this winter?
I had similar issues...if you look far enough back in this thread. I changed the old hardened valve seals, while I was in there I tossed in a new piston, rings, and valves....no oil issues since.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:40 PM   #13181
Teeeeeemu
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 104
Pissed No spark

Previous or his previous owner had done some weird wiring stuff when he removed the safety switches and ignition key etc. So we improved his mess and removed all the still useless wiring. Basicly taking the old out and doing the new stuff right after that. One by one, not all together. Currently it has no kill switches, no battery, no lights, no blinkers, basicly dirtbike. Regulator/rectifier isnt plugged to anything either, cause from what I (my cousin, I dont know much) know, the bike will run without it. Everything seems to be like the wiring diagram says, and then a couple grounding wires to make sure they are grounded, like the PO had it. Not sure if there was that many ground wires on the stock wiring but they shouldnt cause any problems anyway. SO, after doing the clutch clearance, new disks and springs and a new cam chain, it is usually the time to see if it works...

It doesnt give spark. Sometimes it gives once, then nothing. Then changing the spark plug position or plugging in and out some wires it might spark again, but only once. I tried with the old and new plug, both do the same. Old worked fine earlier.
Its a 91 S model btw. Unknown mileage but it has a 80mm wiseco piston. And now I have 2 old cam chains so the new one is at least third. My guess is around 20-40 000km.
Spark was weak but consistent with the old plug before the "rebuild" and cleaning the wiring.

First it didnt spark at all so we thought the coil is broken but then we got to the point where it sparks once sometimes. Doesnt that mean the parts like coil and cdi and regulator should be just fine? Does anyone have any solutions or questions or anything we havent tried yet?

E. Is there a way to tell which year my bike is? The frame is black but theres yellow underneath. It was plated october 91. Frame color says 90. Does the vin tell anything?
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:37 PM   #13182
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Previous or his previous owner had done some weird wiring stuff when he removed the safety switches and ignition key etc. So we improved his mess and removed all the still useless wiring. Basicly taking the old out and doing the new stuff right after that. One by one, not all together. Currently it has no kill switches, no battery, no lights, no blinkers, basicly dirtbike. Regulator/rectifier isnt plugged to anything either, cause from what I (my cousin, I dont know much) know, the bike will run without it. Everything seems to be like the wiring diagram says, and then a couple grounding wires to make sure they are grounded, like the PO had it. Not sure if there was that many ground wires on the stock wiring but they shouldnt cause any problems anyway. SO, after doing the clutch clearance, new disks and springs and a new cam chain, it is usually the time to see if it works...

It doesnt give spark. Sometimes it gives once, then nothing. Then changing the spark plug position or plugging in and out some wires it might spark again, but only once. I tried with the old and new plug, both do the same. Old worked fine earlier.
Its a 91 S model btw. Unknown mileage but it has a 80mm wiseco piston. And now I have 2 old cam chains so the new one is at least third. My guess is around 20-40 000km.
Spark was weak but consistent with the old plug before the "rebuild" and cleaning the wiring.

First it didnt spark at all so we thought the coil is broken but then we got to the point where it sparks once sometimes. Doesnt that mean the parts like coil and cdi and regulator should be just fine? Does anyone have any solutions or questions or anything we havent tried yet?

E. Is there a way to tell which year my bike is? The frame is black but theres yellow underneath. It was plated october 91. Frame color says 90. Does the vin tell anything?
If I'm reading the manual right. It will run without the RR not pluged in, but needs a "fully charged battery". Got to have power from some where. Try hooking up the RR and battery and see what you get. I think I read some where people have replaced the battery on the S model with a capacitor, but still gotta have a regulator of some kind even if just running AC. Don't think that CDI is gonna like 65+ volts AC or DC. Might be wrong, not much expeience with this set up.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:44 PM   #13183
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If I'm reading the manual right. It will run without the RR not pluged in, but needs a "fully charged battery". Got to have power from some where. Try hooking up the RR and battery and see what you get. I think I read some where people have replaced the battery on the S model with a capacitor, but still gotta have a regulator of some kind even if just running AC. Don't think that CDI is gonna like 65+ volts AC or DC. Might be wrong, not much expeience with this set up.
Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow. Just came up with trying the battery myself but since you read something frorm the diagram maybe it makes sense Forgot to say I didnt have a battery or capacitor before and it ran fine.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:51 PM   #13184
Ghostyman
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Location: LA face with the Oakland booty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hmmm...did you maybe bend the "L" shaped piece with the spring on it? IME, it is hard to see any bends until you remove it and examine it. That *might* cause the symptoms you describe.

IIRC, the clutch basket should spin freely. Perhaps you need to clearance it?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I've looked and I'm not sure which one is the "L" shaped piece. Any chance you have a pic where it's visible, part diagram or description?

I compared my two bikes and the one that is shifting fine has small amount of clearance between the shift drum bolt and the drum itself. The bike that doesn't shift right shifts fine if the bolt is backed out a bit to give this same clearance but then the shift drum bolt is loose and would come out eventually. Am I missing a washer somewhere?

I appreciate all the help. I'm going back out to the garage to wrench around a bit more.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:54 PM   #13185
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
I've looked and I'm not sure which one is the "L" shaped piece. Any chance you have a pic where it's visible, part diagram or description?

I compared my two bikes and the one that is shifting fine has small amount of clearance between the shift drum bolt and the drum itself. The bike that doesn't shift right shifts fine if the bolt is backed out a bit to give this same clearance but then the shift drum bolt is loose and would come out eventually. Am I missing a washer somewhere?

I appreciate all the help. I'm going back out to the garage to wrench around a bit more.
It is the piece the arrow is pointing to...with the spring hooked on the other end.



Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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