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Old 09-29-2012, 06:18 AM   #69661
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Alright guys and girls I have a question about the rear shock. I just bought a 8.3 rear shock from An inmate. i weight 190 lbs and normally I ride 2 up with my girlfriend who is around 130 pounds. The shock should be fun for the both of us. I also went to the local motorcycle store and bought new Shock fluid. I'm going to put in 3.5 weight do you think this is okay? The mechanic at the shop said 3.5 would probably be my best bet since I got the Stiffer shock and I don't plan on taking the bike off road.
What is the Wt of stock fluid? I would think you would want something a little bit heavier than stock fluid to slow rebound a bit. Stock is already a boinger with the stock spring. A heavier spring will rebound faster IMO and I would want that slowed down.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:31 AM   #69662
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What is the Wt of stock fluid? I would think you would want something a little bit heavier than stock fluid to slow rebound a bit. Stock is already a boinger with the stock spring. A heavier spring will rebound faster IMO and I would want that slowed down.
Stock is 3.5
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:06 AM   #69663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Alright guys and girls I have a question about the rear shock. I just bought a 8.3 rear shock from An inmate. i weight 190 lbs and normally I ride 2 up with my girlfriend who is around 130 pounds. The shock should be fun for the both of us. I also went to the local motorcycle store and bought new Shock fluid. I'm going to put in 3.5 weight do you think this is okay? The mechanic at the shop said 3.5 would probably be my best bet since I got the Stiffer shock and I don't plan on taking the bike off road.
Many riders have had good results by stepping up to 10w shock oil. It's not as good as a proper re-valve but will make a significant improvement over the limp stock setup.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:11 AM   #69664
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Pull the horn off and test it direct to a battery with some jumper wires.
While testing the horn directly like this also loosen and adjust the phillips head screw on the back side of the horn. The screw adjusts the contact points inside. At least half the time all a dead horn needs is a twist of the screw.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:28 AM   #69665
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some of you may say, "wait, this last run has the airbox mod and the others don't". That is true, however the trends are still the trends.
This is exactly the point I've been trying to make. The best route to getting more power out of the DR is to mod the airbox. The DJ needle is the best (only) needle that will make it possible to run an opened airbox.

Seeing the trends is interesting and educational but does not offer an alternative solution.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:54 AM   #69666
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Eh? carby questions & info

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
this is exactly the point i've been trying to make.
The best route to getting more power out of the dr is to mod the airbox.
The dj needle is the best (only) needle that will make it possible to run an opened airbox.

Seeing the trends is interesting and educational but does not offer an alternative solution.
+1

Now if there was an alternate "jet kit" that worked better (than the ProCycle) I am sure many of us would buy it.

Does anyone other than Derek have the state of the art dyno & gas analyzer?

Since I don't, I rely on those who sell a complete kit to upgrade my bikes.

I am always trying to buy the best available too.
The best option I am aware of is the pumper carb and I will spring for that eventually.
But for now, the PC jet kit works a treat.
On both of my DR's.

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Old 09-29-2012, 09:31 AM   #69667
motolab
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
This is exactly the point I've been trying to make.
You are in fact missing the point. The DJ needle provides richness at the bottom/lower middle/leanness up top (in terms of rpm) - the exact opposite of the trend that is required to get uniform mixture when modifying the airbox.
Quote:
The best route to getting more power out of the DR is to mod the airbox.
Agreed.
Quote:
The DJ needle is the best (only) needle that will make it possible to run an opened airbox.
Based on the shape, and the trends that shape represents, it is the worst choice of the ones discussed so far.
Quote:
Seeing the trends is interesting and educational but does not offer an alternative solution.
Sure it does. Any needle that exhibits a trend going in the correct direction, that is one that, based on its shape, will provide a comparatively leaner mixture at the bottom/lower middle/richens up top (in terms of rpm), and is adjustable. That includes the FP needle (out in my opinion because it is likely to cause accelerated emulsion tube wear), both non-USA OEM needles, and the KTM needle.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:37 AM   #69668
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Sure it does. Any needle that exhibits a trend going in the correct direction, that is one that, based on its shape, will provide a comparatively leaner mixture at the bottom/lower middle/richens up top (in terms of rpm), and is adjustable.
Are you saying that one of these other needles can be used with a modified airbox and give better performance than the DJ needle? Nobody I know of who has tried this has been successful.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:00 AM   #69669
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Are you saying that one of these other needles can be used with a modified airbox and give better performance than the DJ needle?
I have been saying that all along.
Quote:
Nobody I know of who has tried this has been successful.
What are their qualifications, what equipment did they use, and what does "tried" encompass?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:35 AM   #69670
Mongle
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I have been saying that all along.What are their qualifications, what equipment did they use, and what does "tried" encompass?

Regards,

Derek
Moto,

You help a lot of people on here and I think you have a lot of valuable knowledge. BUT, you come off a little rough. You have the "my way is the only way" attitude which isn't always right.

Owning my own dyno (one that handles up to 2000 hp and 1600 ft lbs of torque) and done custom tunes on fuel injection and carbs I know a lot of stuff like your CO2 analyzer are NOT the only way to tune an engine. If I can tune a fuel injection 630 inch blown boat motor without it I know a 35hp motorcycle motor can. Also, you spout off asking people stuff wanting answers they probably can't provide just to make your "ideas" look better.

You still haven't ever answered my questions on what BSFC #/HrHP and Fuel F #/HR you are getting on the DR for max power. If you can't provide that...well, YOU don't have all the information

.

Mongle screwed with this post 09-29-2012 at 11:20 AM
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:38 PM   #69671
Load Clear
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Fuel question

Hi all:
Looking for some education.

I mentioned a while back that I get crappy gas mileage on my 2012 (41-43 mpg).

Tinkerinwstuff mentioned ethanol as the culprit. When I asked the dealer mechanic he suggested the same.

Anyway - I put in some startron enzyme treatment. Now the bike seems to need more throttle in first gear to keep from stalling. I had always thought the bike needed the choke left on for too long (maybe about a minute) but now it's even longer or the bike stalls.

Hoping someone can explain what is occurring - is this "lean" vs "rich"? Should I be using this startron stuff? The first tank did not seem to help the mpg.

Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:56 PM   #69672
motolab
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Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
I had always thought the bike needed the choke left on for too long (maybe about a minute) but now it's even longer or the bike stalls.
The need to leave the cold start enrichment (technically BST40 carbs do not have chokes) active longer points to a lean problem. It sounds like the pilot jet may be getting some deposits in it.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 09-29-2012 at 06:06 PM
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #69673
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Thanks ADV Grifter and the rest of you that came with suggestions regarding my feared gearbox failure. Internet was sparce but I'm now back at home. Turns out you guys were right. I need a new chain and front sprocket.
Cheers.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:14 PM   #69674
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Pull the horn off and test it direct to a battery with some jumper wires.

Mine died one day too, so got another from the wrecker. Dunno what it originated from, but it still works. I've heard that a few others have just dies too.
My stock horn died too, as well as a single horn Fiamm. Never get water in those Fiamm horns. In addition to that, I've lost two horns when riding off road. Bracket broke off. So take care with the mounting bracket ... no matter what horn you go with. I'm now using another random disc type that is actually pretty LOUD. It fits in the standard location, I've upgraded the bar stock and mount to avoid the work hardening break that's happened twice before.

For a Super Horn you will be best with a relay. More wiring but MUCH better sound. No idea where you put a horn with a Safari tank. Mine barely fits with my IMS tank.
Best!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 09-29-2012 at 02:24 PM
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:19 PM   #69675
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestate View Post
Thanks ADV Grifter and the rest of you that came with suggestions regarding my feared gearbox failure. Internet was sparce but I'm now back at home. Turns out you guys were right. I need a new chain and front sprocket.
Cheers.
That is great news!
I think you must own the only DR650 in Scandinavia ! I Hope your bike treats you well ... Get out and ride before Winter! Not much time left!
(or come to California ... where our riding season ... never stops! )

Cheers!
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