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Old 09-25-2012, 07:04 PM   #4246
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhorocks View Post
right on thanks.

how many watts does the KTM fan kit take and charging? that leaves me with what 60 usable?
2.2 Amps by Spal spec (for the fan). depends what rpm you measure stator power. Spec is 100W. I'm not sure what rpm that is at. H4 55/60 bulb draws more than fan.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:47 PM   #4247
bhorocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
2.2 Amps by Spal spec (for the fan). depends what rpm you measure stator power. Spec is 100W. I'm not sure what rpm that is at. H4 55/60 bulb draws more than fan.
My intent is to use one or two of the new Baja designs onx light bars.

Considering running one of sanjohs led lights the model 60.

Just want to male sure I have the juice.. the onx lights are 44 watts per bar.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:53 AM   #4248
LukasM
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I think the KTM type Spal fan draws about 29 Watts.

And the TT spec 100 Watts is supposedly available from idle. You can add their flywheel with stronger magnets for an extra 20 Watts if needed.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:08 AM   #4249
selaznog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhorocks View Post
right on thanks.

how many watts does the KTM fan kit take and charging? that leaves me with what 60 usable?
A lot of guys, myself included, put the fan on a switch to have more control over the power draw.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:36 AM   #4250
vgx
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Hi!
As I have said before, I bought an EXC520 (2000) before about 2 months.
So after riding about first 5 awesome hours the motorcycle stopped when I was switching gears, the engine was stuck and there was oil leaking through clutch side cover gasket. My friend who is good motorcycle mechanic, dismantled the clutch side and under the sprocket No.9 (in picture) there was needles of the needle bearing a little disordered.
He said that could be because of loosen nut No.1.

After the repair I have ridden about 1 hour and today after 20 minutes of riding, when I switched gear, THIS HAPPENED AGAIN!
The engine is stuck and oil leaking beside the new clutch side gasket (bottom).
(Additional info: the gears can be switched and oil level both times was OK)
Why is this happening, what could be wrong with the engine?

Update (26.09.2012 22:08)..
We have not yet opened the cover, but we just read the manual, which says: "Degrease the thread of the crankshaft and coat it with Loctite 243. Mount the collar nut and tighten to 150Nm."
Friend did not use Loctite and says he tighted it to about 80Nm (as he did not have the manual at the first time). So tommorrow we will probably see if this is the problem again.
He says that I should be happy because the engine instantly stucked/wedged and so no sprockets were damaged.

vgx screwed with this post 09-26-2012 at 12:10 PM
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:13 PM   #4251
bhorocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selaznog View Post
A lot of guys, myself included, put the fan on a switch to have more control over the power draw.

good idea...
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:00 PM   #4252
DRjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaco View Post
Why is this happening, what could be wrong with the engine?

Update (26.09.2012 22:08)..
We have not yet opened the cover, but we just read the manual, which says: "Degrease the thread of the crankshaft and coat it with Loctite 243. Mount the collar nut and tighten to 150Nm."
Friend did not use Loctite and says he tighted it to about 80Nm (as he did not have the manual at the first time). So tommorrow we will probably see if this is the problem again.
He says that I should be happy because the engine instantly stucked/wedged and so no sprockets were damaged.

Check the shift drum locking lever and also drop your oil and pull the screens to see if there are any bits of metal in them.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:40 PM   #4253
mookymoo
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Li Ion batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
I assume you are also running the TT regulator? It and the Lithium Ion batteries are supposedly not a great combo. Trailtech told me that they are not compatible with the Shorai. And for the Turntech Lithium, from the horses mouth: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/817...#entry10104600. Probably good you got the one with lots of capacity and have the HID Talking to Joe, if you have a lot of accessory draw, it sounds like it can be borderline.
Oh, that's disappointing. I was hoping to go for a li ion battery because the yuasa's don't like sitting around for long periods of time - which mine does...



I think there are typically 2 issues that can lead to incompatibility issues:
1) the charging voltage.
2) how much the RR relies on the capacitative effect of the battery to give a smooth voltage. As li ion batteries reach full charge, the current they will accept nears zero - so its capacitative effect nears zero.

Very long, informative thread here : http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:09 AM   #4254
vgx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Check the shift drum locking lever and also drop your oil and pull the screens to see if there are any bits of metal in them.
Well, yesterday I opened the cover, and checked the oil screens. The drum locking lever was ok. The screens were clean. And we predicted, the big nut on the crankshaft was loose again. So loose that it has lost about 0.5mm of itself by grinding against the clutch side cover.

I have got a Loctite-like threadlocker, a little stronger than Loctite 243. How do you think, will that loctite and 150Nm hold the nut forever? (I mean till I will want to open it myself ;) )
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #4255
DRjoe
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When the nut is loose can you turn the gear under it? It should have no play in it.
If the nut has been left loose to long the key and keyway will flog out which alows the gear to turn back a forward a few degrees.
If this has happened no amount of loctite or big spanners are going to stop that nut coming loose.

I had the same problem with mine so I fixed it by getting the next size key up and then grinding it down until it was a snug fit in the worn keyway.
I then put red loctite on the shaft then slid the gear on, loctited the nut and tightened it with the air rattle gun as tight as it would go.

It's never come loose since.
If I ever need to take it off a bot of heat and the rattle gun will break it loose.
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:37 PM   #4256
vgx
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Sorry, I did not understand you exactly. Do you mean play in the most top sprocket which has these 6 bolts and the big nut over it? It does not have any play, it is very hard.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:10 PM   #4257
DRjoe
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Yep that's it.

Sounds like you have caught it in time and no dammage was done.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:49 AM   #4258
clapped_r6
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talk to me about thermostat deletion for an 07 rfs. i remember seeing cody's "plug" on the right rad, i think that was part of the deal?
i was looking at samco hoses for the thermo delete, but can't seem to find it anywhere.

skooool me!

yes i searched, but there didn't seem to be any consensus.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:14 AM   #4259
CodyY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
talk to me about thermostat deletion for an 07 rfs. i remember seeing cody's "plug" on the right rad, i think that was part of the deal?
i was looking at samco hoses for the thermo delete, but can't seem to find it anywhere.

skooool me!

yes i searched, but there didn't seem to be any consensus.
I had a local radiator shop weld mine
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:16 AM   #4260
clapped_r6
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I had a local radiator shop weld mine
so you deleted the thermostat then?

does it cool better without it?

i ask because i have my (new to me) bike all apart, and would like to tackle all this kind of stuff at once. i have the fan kit, oil cooler on order, etc.
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