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Old 12-14-2011, 04:23 PM   #31
Konflict Motorsports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnf3 View Post
The bushings and the seals are identical between the closed chamber and open chamber WP forks. So, yes the kit I referenced will work. Like I said, the kit is designed for WP CC forks, so it has a few extra small seals meant to rebuild the cartridge seal that the open chamber forks on the Adventure do not have. There may be a SKF kit that KTM sells for open chamber, but I do not know the part number if there is one.
You will have 2 extra seals left over (the small damping rod purple seals) otherwise its the same. Its a great price for what you get! There was a major B/O on these a while back, some dealers are still having issue's getting them.
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Old 12-14-2011, 04:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by McVick View Post
I also found it difficult to tighten the cartridge back into the bottom of the fork leg.
It threaded into the piston rod just fine but getting it as tight as necessary is a bit of a trick.

The WP manual says to bend the piston rod a bit by pushing it to the side and holding it while you tighten the cartridge but even doing that I am concerned it is not as tight as it should be. Spec is 25nm but I do not have my torque wrench with me.

Brian
An easy trick is to slide the fork spring in and then invert the fork so the compression valve is facing up at you. Put your 19mm socket on the compression valve and press down as you tighten the valve body. The spring pressure from the fork spring will keep enough force on everything so it tightens right up. Don't overtighten your compression valve!
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:22 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by UngaWunga View Post
Bam! thanks

http://www.ktm-parts.com/R14020.html

Hmm... while those are listed as a kit for SXS WP 48mm, all the rebuild kits listed for 950/990 advs have different (lower) numbers. Is that number correct? Just want to double check. I have to tear down my forks this winter because one of the adjusters is stuck, might as well replace seals while I'm in there. Thanks.
No need to touch the seals to sort out an adjuster. In fact no need to remove the cartridge. Base valve unscrews out the bottom. Cap unscrews off the top, then hold the cartridge with a 8mm or slimmer wrench, then undo the cap off the cartridge by undoing via the preload hex.

Make sure the ally tube in the centre of the cartridge is almost flush as its a common mistake to assemble the cap onto the cartridge when the ally tube is not correctly seated. Also make sure the black plastic needle in the cap fits into the ally tube as your place the cap onto the cartridge.
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:34 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
No need to touch the seals to sort out an adjuster. In fact no need to remove the cartridge. Base valve unscrews out the bottom. Cap unscrews off the top, then hold the cartridge with a 8mm or slimmer wrench, then undo the cap off the cartridge by undoing via the preload hex.

Make sure the ally tube in the centre of the cartridge is almost flush as its a common mistake to assemble the cap onto the cartridge when the ally tube is not correctly seated. Also make sure the black plastic needle in the cap fits into the ally tube as your place the cap onto the cartridge.
Thanks for the tips.
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:38 PM   #35
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Wow,
that's a good deal for just about a complete service kit.

Not really, check this out.....

http://www.thousandoaksyamaha.com/fi...tnumber=R14020
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:43 PM   #36
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Bumping this up.... having a bitch of a time getting the last bushing to seat putting the inner tube back on the outer - even tried heating as the recommend for removal. Any ideas?
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:27 PM   #37
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Bumping this up.... having a bitch of a time getting the last bushing to seat putting the inner tube back on the outer - even tried heating as the recommend for removal. Any ideas?
I always use my seal driver to tap the bushing into place before I tap the fork seal into place. It just takes a few light taps, very light taps. If yours is not going together easily something else is wrong. You sure your bushing is the correct one?
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:56 AM   #38
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Old thread but very related to what I am dealing with now.

I got the KTM service kit for my 04 950 ADV. It has SKF seals.

It came with only one set of bushings. I contacted the dealer and they say it supposed to have two sets. One goes at the bottom and the other clips on at the top.

However, my forks had THREE sets. The dealer says the middle bushings are not needed ! Is that right?
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:14 AM   #39
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They cause extra friction and are left out on a lot of rebuilds. They will delay ware a little bit when in, so your choice..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-D802 met Tapatalk
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:01 AM   #40
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I found that without the 3rd bushing, my forks had what I consider to be unacceptable play.

I was trying to reduce stiction, but in my case, putting the SKF seals in was sufficient. They are as good as people say.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:50 AM   #41
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They cause extra friction and are left out on a lot of rebuilds. They will delay ware a little bit when in, so your choice..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-D802 met Tapatalk
so much so that KTM doesn't include it in their fork service kit ?! That's what the dealer told me.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:18 AM   #42
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The fork service kit your dealer has is probably for the smaller bikes that have only 2 bushings from factory on.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-D802 met Tapatalk
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:17 AM   #43
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If the synergy seals come with a little plastic spacer (washer) just remember you put it in the the next time you change your seals. Ask me how i know (on my 520 however).
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:19 PM   #44
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Grind one down to fit...

..
that is what I did. I have also put a needle nose vice grip on the black plastic piece (through the spring) and then screw the spring down until you can get your wrench on the nut. a lot easier when you get to heavier springs.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:00 PM   #45
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Dude, wrong thread.
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