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Old 10-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #69811
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Ok, now for testing a CDI from a late model DR in an old DR. Jeff, do you have access to a 2006 or thereabouts CDI?

I was told by a mechanic in South Africa that Suzuki introduced a sort of anti-theft feature (to prevent hot wiring) on the DR by changing the resistance in the ignition switch over the model years so that a CDI from a late model couldn't be put into an old DR. Im not sure how true this info is. If it is true, I need to figure out what resistance the 2006 CDI needs and figure out a way to mod my ignition switch to match that.
Suzuki calls for the same CDI part number from 1998 to current. 96 and 97 are a different part number but I don't know exactly what the difference is.

The anti-theft resistor is in the key switch which is also the same for 1998 to current with 96 and 97 being different. That makes me think that your SA mechanic is correct but it would only apply to 96 and 97 bikes. I couldn't find any mention of what year your bike is.

HERE are instructions for eliminating the factory key switch and replacing it with a simple on/off switch. Details for wiring in a separate resistor can be found there.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:12 AM   #69812
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I have the instruction at home, but yes they slide in "bolt side up" and add about 1/2 inch to preload.

With the Intiminator you must use 5W fork oil.

There is a good thread here on adv rider with pictures on the installation procedures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
That is possible. I install them in the orientation you see here, with the nut side pointing up to the sky. I did this because it is how the Gold Line Emulators are installed.


I did buy this bike with Ricor's second hand, so I do not have the instructions. Can someone verify if this is the right orientation, and/or provide a copy of the instructions?
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #69813
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Here you go

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588



Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
That is possible. I install them in the orientation you see here, with the nut side pointing up to the sky. I did this because it is how the Gold Line Emulators are installed.


I did buy this bike with Ricor's second hand, so I do not have the instructions. Can someone verify if this is the right orientation, and/or provide a copy of the instructions?
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #69814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
That is possible. I install them in the orientation you see here, with the nut side pointing up to the sky. I did this because it is how the Gold Line Emulators are installed.


I did buy this bike with Ricor's second hand, so I do not have the instructions. Can someone verify if this is the right orientation, and/or provide a copy of the instructions?
That should be correct. Since no modifications are necessary to install them, you should be able to just pop them out too, and see if the issue resolves itself. Could be that one is bad. They should keep the front end from compressing while pushing on the handlebars, not from rebounding.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #69815
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Thanks all for posting and verifying the correct orientation of the Intiminators. I did install them in the correct position, so I am still puzzled and confused on why my fork is making the sounds that it makes, and moves slowly.

I think at this point I just need to disassemble it again and inspect.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:35 AM   #69816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Thanks all for posting and verifying the correct orientation of the Intiminators. I did install them in the correct position, so I am still puzzled and confused on why my fork is making the sounds that it makes, and moves slowly.

I think at this point I just need to disassemble it again and inspect.

I don t have a noise, but have the same issue with my forks. When I start to brake for a light, my forks move quickly through the first 2 inches, then slow. When I stop, they don't spring back until I start to throttle up and take off. Strange issue, not sure where to start so I'm just "observing" for now lol
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:44 AM   #69817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Thanks all for posting and verifying the correct orientation of the Intiminators. I did install them in the correct position, so I am still puzzled and confused on why my fork is making the sounds that it makes, and moves slowly.

I think at this point I just need to disassemble it again and inspect.
Sounds to me like there isn't any preload on the spring. Maybe hearing it rattle inside? Which would also make the fork rebound slowly. Just a thought.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:16 AM   #69818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:09 AM   #69819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Thanks all for posting and verifying the correct orientation of the Intiminators. I did install them in the correct position, so I am still puzzled and confused on why my fork is making the sounds that it makes, and moves slowly.

I think at this point I just need to disassemble it again and inspect.
Someone else was having problems with his Intiminator front suspension. When he took them apart he found the outer fiber/plastic? ring was distorted. I think it had expanded slightly and was sticking in the fork tube a bit. One fix was to file the ring ends a bit (just like on an engine piston ring). It seems RICOR was helping and working with him.

Several users have mentioned clicking when riding.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:24 AM   #69820
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
As noted in above post. In A&P school we learned to do criss cross or star patterns on most assemblies, and doing 3 stages of tightening to ensure
even pressure and alignment. No idea if Suzuki provide more detail on this. I've never seen any specifics ... just following standard practices.

One thing to add: Once everything is loose ... make certain motor is fully seated correctly and not hung up anywhere. Basically, just wiggle it around a bit and look at motor mounts to see if all looks OK. Then tighten back up. Look specifically for cracked mounts, bolts or frame bosses.

The more I read, more I feel its a counter balancer issue. But just a guess.

Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement. Do not get me wrong, it is still nowhere nearly as smooth as my buddy's DR, but some improvement exists. At least now it seems OK-ish at 70km/h in 3rd and 90km/h in 4th gear, previously it wasn't.
It seems that the engine mounts were tightened to well over 100Nm. At least they required over 100Nm to break loose. I re-tightened them in criss cross pattern to the specified torque of 65Nm.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:37 AM   #69821
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement. Do not get me wrong, it is still nowhere nearly as smooth as my buddy's DR, but some improvement exists. At least now it seems OK-ish at 70km/h in 3rd and 90km/h in 4th gear, previously it wasn't.
It seems that the engine mounts were tightened to well over 100Nm. At least they required over 100Nm to break loose. I re-tightened them in criss cross pattern to the specified torque of 65Nm.
I don't know if this was mentioned but sometimes it helps to tighten up the motor mounts with the motor at full operating temperature.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:37 AM   #69822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement.
Did you also check the head-stay bolts?
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:49 AM   #69823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I don't know if this was mentioned but sometimes it helps to tighten up the motor mounts with the motor at full operating temperature.
Thanks, I will try that as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Did you also check the head-stay bolts?
Definitely not, but it is not clear to me exactly to which bolts are you referring. Are you referring to the bolts that hold the small engine support "plates" to the frame? If I recall correctly 3 engine mounts hold directly to the frame and 2 to some adapter plates.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #69824
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Definitely not, but it is not clear to me exactly to which bolts are you referring.
3 bolts under the tank. Connect the top of the motor to the frame with 2 triangular plates. These would be the most important ones for transmitting vibrations.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:25 PM   #69825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
3 bolts under the tank. Connect the top of the motor to the frame with 2 triangular plates. These would be the most important ones for transmitting vibrations.

part # 29 is the bolt through the head
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID.../CYLINDER_HEAD

and the plates shown here as #5:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID..._MODEL_T_V_W_X
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