XR650R Thread!

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron

You rotate your tire/wheel backwards to get to TDC?

Yeh, I was scratching my head on that one too.

Anytime the crank moves backwards the decomp kicks in, correct?

[dohcfox]

Gents,

Quick question about coolant temps in colder weather. I've noticed that my coolant temps aren't getting past about 135 to 140 degrees according to my Trailtech Vapor computer, in the mornings, when commuting to work with ambient temps around 50 degrees. My commute distance is about 7 miles on arterials. Anyways, I let the bike warm up for about 30 seconds or so before leaving in the mornings; maybe I should let it idle a little longer?

Will my temps being so low cause any long term issues? Otherwise, the motor runs just fine and pulls like a freight train.

Thanks!!

JT

[BuRPsa]

Originally Posted by Renazco

I'll keep you all posted on weight and price as soon as I know more.
In the meantime, mine kicks over first kick every time, it's when it's vertical, hot out and your exhausted that makes you want the e-start.

Yes please, I'd be interested too.
If price is right (ie not over the top) I'll buy it in a heartbeat.... but probably and hopefully will wait eons with actually mounting it.
This bike I'll never sell, and once old/ancient and dilapidated I just might want to have the option of mounting the kit then - if I'll remember it, be free of Altzheimers that is.
Now, what were we talking about?



Serious, keep's posted on the price, an better tell the weight-gain to someone who cares a bout that

[BuRPsa]

Originally Posted by crypto666

Yeh, I was scratching my head on that one too.

Anytime the crank moves backwards the decomp kicks in, correct?

You're not alone, in fact I think Larryboy is deadwrong here.
You only may rotate backward if the auto-decomp system is inoperative, so with a HRC-regrind or maybe also with Stage 1/2/etc hotcams? Definitely not with a std cam, it'll lift the one exhaust valve immediately.
Pls note Medisyn?


Larryboy, you have no habit of posting wrong info, contrary even - you're sure bro?

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Larryboy, you have no habit of posting wrong info, contrary even - you're sure bro?

Never really thought about it, I have always done it that way. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong. The decomp activates under low rpm like a kickstarter going forward, I roll them around backwards with the rear tire, always have.

[medisyn]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Medisyn,

first: to find TDC take out plug + the small cover in the stator cover. Trun the flywheel forward (anticlockwise) and forward only, until the markers show. Do not for a millimeter turn back (clockwise) as this will engage the decomp system and will lift an exhaust valve. Check valveplay at tdc.
second: measure the compression on your bike, with a meter. Beg, steal or borrow a gauge but do this. If you get a reading below say 8 then the valves are leaking.
third: get a new plug. A light smear of anti-seize on the thread, check gap & put it in.
fourth: take carb off bike. Set mixture-screw to 1.5 full turns (from closed, and don't close it 'hard' ever!), floatlevel to 18mm or thereabouts (15 is too low ergo a too high fuel level), and with the cables off turn the slide-stopper down until the slide stops. Then turn it up again say 3 or 4 full turns and leave it at that - you should see a gap under the slide, around a millimeter. Reassemble on bike, and leave enough slack in the cables.

Kick as follows: with decomp pulled in cycle the kicker say 4 strokes withOUT turning the throttle (but maybe once or twice with choke on, then off again), and keep yet mitt off the handle - NO throttle! Release the decomp and kick until it goes 'hard' and stops. Pull decomp and ease the kicker and inch further down. Release decomp, bring kicker up, breath in deep... and whack kicker down (again without touching the throttle!).
Be greeted with the bark you're after!!

Let it idle, ride it warm-enough, park it on your bikestand, run a hosepipe over a radiator, and adjust first the mixture screw to 'best' (highest revs) around the 1.5 full turn, and then set the idle revs by adjusting the slide stopper screw.
Repeat these steps (both!) until it purrs.
Switch off bike, turn off water, have a coffee (ie wait 5 mins).
Start the bike as per above, without turning the throttle ever!
It should start first kick, but if it won't start your stopper screw is set too low - so don't fuck with the mixture screw.
Repeat.

Remember that it may need upping the slide stopper when cold, in the morning - no biggie but remember it, otherwise you'll grow a developed calf plus a bad temper. Once it gets warm you can ease down the stopper screw again. Warm starting is a single kick (after cycling it 2 times) every time!

I will follow your advice. I have done everything other than check compression and raise the float to 18mm. When I am rotating the crank by hand counter clockwise I do hear a click, is this the decompress kicking in? I am wondering if I have the left side exhaust valve really off. I never turn the crank clockwise.

While I have not used a gauge yet there is signs of compression. Putting my finger into the plug hole will result in it getting pushed out on the compression stroke and the kick starter gets hard/immovable at/near TDC. I always have to use the decompress lever to get it one click past that so I can kick it. Thanks everyone for the advice. I know I will get it started if I just stay determined!

[galland1]

Sounds like your stat might have failed. Mine was doing the same thing. See my post a few back with a pic of my stat.

Originally Posted by dohcfox

Gents,

Quick question about coolant temps in colder weather. I've noticed that my coolant temps aren't getting past about 135 to 140 degrees according to my Trailtech Vapor computer, in the mornings, when commuting to work with ambient temps around 50 degrees. My commute distance is about 7 miles on arterials. Anyways, I let the bike warm up for about 30 seconds or so before leaving in the mornings; maybe I should let it idle a little longer?

Will my temps being so low cause any long term issues? Otherwise, the motor runs just fine and pulls like a freight train.

Thanks!!

JT

[atreiou]

thats my setup with stock tank, maybe I can move in a lower position the fan

Originally Posted by Shibby!

Clarke 4.3?

Must depend where you have your fan mounetd because both myself, and my buddy (using my 4.3 Clarke) easily fit the SPAL fan behind the right rad.

Our fan is mounted between the emissions tabs on the back of the fan. I could dig up a picture with enough searching.

[bamfslap]

Originally Posted by Renazco

Dunno yet but I'm estimating 3 times that going by memory of what a Joe Racer e-start used to cost.


I don't really know what the actual weight will end up being since the new Lithium batteries will shave a few pounds off.



Me too, if the price is similar to what Baja used to sell them for. I don't want to pay more then the next guy but there is a lot involved when putting these things together.

I'll keep you all posted on weight and price as soon as I know more.
In the meantime, mine kicks over first kick every time, it's when it's vertical, hot out and your exhausted that makes you want the e-start.

Damn. I heard a BD one on ebay went for under a 1000 awhile ago.

I'd like to buy one and keep it in storage if I ever wanted to build a supermoto, but at that price I'll just keep kicking (only takes a kick or two to light the beast up anyway).

[atreiou]

put the fan about 1 inch lower than the pic, and now there are no problem with the tank, problem solved.

[MatttheHatt]

Originally Posted by medisyn

The throttle stop or the pilot screw? I have no idea how to set the throttle stop right on a bike I cant get started. Also I have tried half turn out all the way up to 4.

I was referring to SCREW SET B, part #10 in the carb parts fiche. When I re-jetted, I set the pilot screw two or three turns out (or what ever was normal for my jetting) and once I gave it enough gas though the throttle stop (idle adjuster) it started easy as pie.

[ZXRaziel]

Originally Posted by jwalters

Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw

That is normal , mine does the same .

[medisyn]

Guess what guys, after messing with the float height and getting a buddy to help push start it it FINALLY fired up. It felt so glorious for it to actually start. A messed with the idle screw a bit and turned down the idle a bit and shut it off. I was able to restart it after a few kicks after.

The valves sound great. Very sowing machine like. I think it will still take some tuning to get it easier to start but for it to actually start is pretty huge for me. Thanks everyone again. Thank you all for not telling me to fuck off several pages ago.

I am noticing it seems like the clutch dragged a bit when I had the clutch in all the way. Seemed to go away after the push start...

EDIT: After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!

[BuRPsa]

Originally Posted by medisyn

After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!

See, there you go! Tune the idling circuit as per above and it will start with one kick - after having cycled the kicker twice of course, to 'clear its throat'. I'll admit you must get used t that but that will take all of one day's riding, so go get yet butt out there. Enjoy this bike, it has very few equals if at all.


And Larryboy, if it worked for you then it did, no sweat. I just though to mention it to Medisyn as he clearly had to do some logical checking, and then failsafe is best.

[mr. coffee]

Originally Posted by medisyn

Guess what guys, after messing with the float height and getting a buddy to help push start it it FINALLY fired up. It felt so glorious for it to actually start. A messed with the idle screw a bit and turned down the idle a bit and shut it off. I was able to restart it after a few kicks after.

The valves sound great. Very sowing machine like. I think it will still take some tuning to get it easier to start but for it to actually start is pretty huge for me. Thanks everyone again. Thank you all for not telling me to fuck off several pages ago.

I am noticing it seems like the clutch dragged a bit when I had the clutch in all the way. Seemed to go away after the push start...

EDIT: After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!

congratulations dude!!! i have been following your posts and, as always, have learned much and have appreciated all of the help and technical info provided by the adv inmates.
the pig is still a fairly new bike for me and it is frustrating as hell when you can't get it started. for a week i couldn't get mine started, then one day i checked the valves, looked at the plug , and changed the oil and it fired right up. go figure. valves and plug were fine.
looking to get some tires that are more pavement oriented for the spring. any recommendations would be helpful.
happy fall riding everyone