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Old 10-04-2012, 09:26 AM   #14791
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Medisyn,

first: to find TDC take out plug + the small cover in the stator cover. Trun the flywheel forward (anticlockwise) and forward only, until the markers show. Do not for a millimeter turn back (clockwise) as this will engage the decomp system and will lift an exhaust valve. Check valveplay at tdc.
second: measure the compression on your bike, with a meter. Beg, steal or borrow a gauge but do this. If you get a reading below say 8 then the valves are leaking.
third: get a new plug. A light smear of anti-seize on the thread, check gap & put it in.
fourth: take carb off bike. Set mixture-screw to 1.5 full turns (from closed, and don't close it 'hard' ever!), floatlevel to 18mm or thereabouts (15 is too low ergo a too high fuel level), and with the cables off turn the slide-stopper down until the slide stops. Then turn it up again say 3 or 4 full turns and leave it at that - you should see a gap under the slide, around a millimeter. Reassemble on bike, and leave enough slack in the cables.

Kick as follows: with decomp pulled in cycle the kicker say 4 strokes withOUT turning the throttle (but maybe once or twice with choke on, then off again), and keep yet mitt off the handle - NO throttle! Release the decomp and kick until it goes 'hard' and stops. Pull decomp and ease the kicker and inch further down. Release decomp, bring kicker up, breath in deep... and whack kicker down (again without touching the throttle!).
Be greeted with the bark you're after!!

Let it idle, ride it warm-enough, park it on your bikestand, run a hosepipe over a radiator, and adjust first the mixture screw to 'best' (highest revs) around the 1.5 full turn, and then set the idle revs by adjusting the slide stopper screw.
Repeat these steps (both!) until it purrs.
Switch off bike, turn off water, have a coffee (ie wait 5 mins).
Start the bike as per above, without turning the throttle ever!
It should start first kick, but if it won't start your stopper screw is set too low - so don't fuck with the mixture screw.
Repeat.

Remember that it may need upping the slide stopper when cold, in the morning - no biggie but remember it, otherwise you'll grow a developed calf plus a bad temper. Once it gets warm you can ease down the stopper screw again. Warm starting is a single kick (after cycling it 2 times) every time!
I will follow your advice. I have done everything other than check compression and raise the float to 18mm. When I am rotating the crank by hand counter clockwise I do hear a click, is this the decompress kicking in? I am wondering if I have the left side exhaust valve really off. I never turn the crank clockwise.

While I have not used a gauge yet there is signs of compression. Putting my finger into the plug hole will result in it getting pushed out on the compression stroke and the kick starter gets hard/immovable at/near TDC. I always have to use the decompress lever to get it one click past that so I can kick it. Thanks everyone for the advice. I know I will get it started if I just stay determined!
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:37 AM   #14792
galland1
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: S.W., MI
Oddometer: 114
Sounds like your stat might have failed. Mine was doing the same thing. See my post a few back with a pic of my stat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Gents,

Quick question about coolant temps in colder weather. I've noticed that my coolant temps aren't getting past about 135 to 140 degrees according to my Trailtech Vapor computer, in the mornings, when commuting to work with ambient temps around 50 degrees. My commute distance is about 7 miles on arterials. Anyways, I let the bike warm up for about 30 seconds or so before leaving in the mornings; maybe I should let it idle a little longer?

Will my temps being so low cause any long term issues? Otherwise, the motor runs just fine and pulls like a freight train.

Thanks!!

JT
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #14793
atreiou
XR 650R Rider
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Verona - Italy
Oddometer: 61
thats my setup with stock tank, maybe I can move in a lower position the fan



Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Clarke 4.3?

Must depend where you have your fan mounetd because both myself, and my buddy (using my 4.3 Clarke) easily fit the SPAL fan behind the right rad.

Our fan is mounted between the emissions tabs on the back of the fan. I could dig up a picture with enough searching.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:31 AM   #14794
bamfslap
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Joined: Apr 2012
Oddometer: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renazco View Post
Dunno yet but I'm estimating 3 times that going by memory of what a Joe Racer e-start used to cost.


I don't really know what the actual weight will end up being since the new Lithium batteries will shave a few pounds off.



Me too, if the price is similar to what Baja used to sell them for. I don't want to pay more then the next guy but there is a lot involved when putting these things together.

I'll keep you all posted on weight and price as soon as I know more.
In the meantime, mine kicks over first kick every time, it's when it's vertical, hot out and your exhausted that makes you want the e-start.
Damn. I heard a BD one on ebay went for under a 1000 awhile ago.

I'd like to buy one and keep it in storage if I ever wanted to build a supermoto, but at that price I'll just keep kicking (only takes a kick or two to light the beast up anyway).
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #14795
atreiou
XR 650R Rider
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Verona - Italy
Oddometer: 61
put the fan about 1 inch lower than the pic, and now there are no problem with the tank, problem solved.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:34 PM   #14796
MatttheHatt
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
The throttle stop or the pilot screw? I have no idea how to set the throttle stop right on a bike I cant get started. Also I have tried half turn out all the way up to 4.
I was referring to SCREW SET B, part #10 in the carb parts fiche. When I re-jetted, I set the pilot screw two or three turns out (or what ever was normal for my jetting) and once I gave it enough gas though the throttle stop (idle adjuster) it started easy as pie.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #14797
ZXRaziel
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 535
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw
That is normal , mine does the same .
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:51 AM   #14798
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
Guess what guys, after messing with the float height and getting a buddy to help push start it it FINALLY fired up. It felt so glorious for it to actually start. A messed with the idle screw a bit and turned down the idle a bit and shut it off. I was able to restart it after a few kicks after.

The valves sound great. Very sowing machine like. I think it will still take some tuning to get it easier to start but for it to actually start is pretty huge for me. Thanks everyone again. Thank you all for not telling me to fuck off several pages ago.

I am noticing it seems like the clutch dragged a bit when I had the clutch in all the way. Seemed to go away after the push start...

EDIT: After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!

medisyn screwed with this post 10-05-2012 at 02:03 AM
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:58 AM   #14799
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!
See, there you go! Tune the idling circuit as per above and it will start with one kick - after having cycled the kicker twice of course, to 'clear its throat'. I'll admit you must get used t that but that will take all of one day's riding, so go get yet butt out there. Enjoy this bike, it has very few equals if at all.


And Larryboy, if it worked for you then it did, no sweat. I just though to mention it to Medisyn as he clearly had to do some logical checking, and then failsafe is best.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:51 AM   #14800
mr. coffee
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: big sandy mush, western n.c.
Oddometer: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Guess what guys, after messing with the float height and getting a buddy to help push start it it FINALLY fired up. It felt so glorious for it to actually start. A messed with the idle screw a bit and turned down the idle a bit and shut it off. I was able to restart it after a few kicks after.

The valves sound great. Very sowing machine like. I think it will still take some tuning to get it easier to start but for it to actually start is pretty huge for me. Thanks everyone again. Thank you all for not telling me to fuck off several pages ago.

I am noticing it seems like the clutch dragged a bit when I had the clutch in all the way. Seemed to go away after the push start...

EDIT: After the bike was sitting for about an hour I was able to kick it to life with no choke with two kicks. A good sign!

congratulations dude!!! i have been following your posts and, as always, have learned much and have appreciated all of the help and technical info provided by the adv inmates.
the pig is still a fairly new bike for me and it is frustrating as hell when you can't get it started. for a week i couldn't get mine started, then one day i checked the valves, looked at the plug , and changed the oil and it fired right up. go figure. valves and plug were fine.
looking to get some tires that are more pavement oriented for the spring. any recommendations would be helpful.
happy fall riding everyone
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:50 AM   #14801
RZRob
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Oddometer: 1,667
Yeah!

Medisyn,
Like everyone else, I'm totally stoked for you. Mine was having similar issues and like yours, it was fuel starvation. I had to think about it for awhile. I hadn't messed with mine like you did, but had same symptoms. Occasional pop, but no life. For me it was further upstream (petcock). Because of their size, the kick starter is geared to not spin them fast enough, so margin for error is less. I know how they can take it out of you trying to start, so it had to be like a cool breeze when it finally did.

Congrats.

RZ Rob
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:12 AM   #14802
crypto666
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Joined: May 2011
Location: The best trails in Nevada
Oddometer: 1,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
I am noticing it seems like the clutch dragged a bit when I had the clutch in all the way. Seemed to go away after the push start..
Normal for a wet clutch. Its because of the London-dispersion forces and polar bonding of oil molecules on the clutch surfaces, I think. Really I just made that shit up, but it is normal.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:24 AM   #14803
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
Thanks guys! Now I just have one more issue, leaking left side fork. Anybody in the bay area already have the tools or have made them? So close to having the piggy fully operational!

Also where are you guys ordering your rad fans from?
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:49 AM   #14804
dohcfox
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by galland1 View Post
Sounds like your stat might have failed. Mine was doing the same thing. See my post a few back with a pic of my stat.

Thanks mang!! I'll have a looksee!
__________________
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:07 PM   #14805
supernick
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Location: Moscow, Russia
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supernick screwed with this post 10-05-2012 at 12:27 PM
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