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Old 10-04-2012, 09:16 AM   #69826
eakins
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:09 AM   #69827
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Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Thanks all for posting and verifying the correct orientation of the Intiminators. I did install them in the correct position, so I am still puzzled and confused on why my fork is making the sounds that it makes, and moves slowly.

I think at this point I just need to disassemble it again and inspect.
Someone else was having problems with his Intiminator front suspension. When he took them apart he found the outer fiber/plastic? ring was distorted. I think it had expanded slightly and was sticking in the fork tube a bit. One fix was to file the ring ends a bit (just like on an engine piston ring). It seems RICOR was helping and working with him.

Several users have mentioned clicking when riding.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:24 AM   #69828
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
As noted in above post. In A&P school we learned to do criss cross or star patterns on most assemblies, and doing 3 stages of tightening to ensure
even pressure and alignment. No idea if Suzuki provide more detail on this. I've never seen any specifics ... just following standard practices.

One thing to add: Once everything is loose ... make certain motor is fully seated correctly and not hung up anywhere. Basically, just wiggle it around a bit and look at motor mounts to see if all looks OK. Then tighten back up. Look specifically for cracked mounts, bolts or frame bosses.

The more I read, more I feel its a counter balancer issue. But just a guess.

Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement. Do not get me wrong, it is still nowhere nearly as smooth as my buddy's DR, but some improvement exists. At least now it seems OK-ish at 70km/h in 3rd and 90km/h in 4th gear, previously it wasn't.
It seems that the engine mounts were tightened to well over 100Nm. At least they required over 100Nm to break loose. I re-tightened them in criss cross pattern to the specified torque of 65Nm.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:37 AM   #69829
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement. Do not get me wrong, it is still nowhere nearly as smooth as my buddy's DR, but some improvement exists. At least now it seems OK-ish at 70km/h in 3rd and 90km/h in 4th gear, previously it wasn't.
It seems that the engine mounts were tightened to well over 100Nm. At least they required over 100Nm to break loose. I re-tightened them in criss cross pattern to the specified torque of 65Nm.
I don't know if this was mentioned but sometimes it helps to tighten up the motor mounts with the motor at full operating temperature.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:37 AM   #69830
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement.
Did you also check the head-stay bolts?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:49 AM   #69831
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I don't know if this was mentioned but sometimes it helps to tighten up the motor mounts with the motor at full operating temperature.
Thanks, I will try that as well.

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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Did you also check the head-stay bolts?
Definitely not, but it is not clear to me exactly to which bolts are you referring. Are you referring to the bolts that hold the small engine support "plates" to the frame? If I recall correctly 3 engine mounts hold directly to the frame and 2 to some adapter plates.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:15 AM   #69832
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Definitely not, but it is not clear to me exactly to which bolts are you referring.
3 bolts under the tank. Connect the top of the motor to the frame with 2 triangular plates. These would be the most important ones for transmitting vibrations.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:25 AM   #69833
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
3 bolts under the tank. Connect the top of the motor to the frame with 2 triangular plates. These would be the most important ones for transmitting vibrations.

part # 29 is the bolt through the head
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID.../CYLINDER_HEAD

and the plates shown here as #5:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID..._MODEL_T_V_W_X
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:33 PM   #69834
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Someone else was having problems with his Intiminator front suspension. When he took them apart he found the outer fiber/plastic? ring was distorted. I think it had expanded slightly and was sticking in the fork tube a bit. One fix was to file the ring ends a bit (just like on an engine piston ring). It seems RICOR was helping and working with him.

Several users have mentioned clicking when riding.
THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.



I just got off the phone with Ricor and explained my problem, and what they told me was the first round of Ricor's (mine were probably installed by the original owner around 2007-2009) had a slight issue with the seal ring being slightly too large. This is also exasperated by the fact that once it soaks and swells slightly from the fork oil, it becomes even bigger (Pro Tip: Belray sends to cause more swelling, even in regular fork seals). This makes sense with what I saw last year when I "rebuilt" the forks with new oil and new seals....it took a bit of force to get the Intiminator's out, as in I had to turn the fork leg upside down and compress it until the Intiminator shot out with force into my plastic oil collection pan. Likewise during installation, I simply could not just "drop them in"...I had to use the fork spring to help them slide in the fork.

So the guy from Ricor confirmed that I will need to trim down this seal ring. I just pop it off the Intiminator like a piston ring, remove some material either by filing or cutting with diagonal cutters, and reinstall. Once that ring is back on the body of the Intiminator, it should drop right down the fork tube with no resistance. Ricor confirmed that it is OK if it's slightly loose, the effects are not very noticeable.

Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

planemanx15, this may fix your problem!

isaac004 screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 09:44 PM
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:29 PM   #69835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.

I just got off the phone with Ricor and explained my problem, and what they told me was the first round of Ricor's (mine were probably installed by the original owner around 2007-2009) had a slight issue with the seal ring being slightly too large. This is also exasperated by the fact that once it soaks and swells slightly from the fork oil, it becomes even bigger (Pro Tip: Belray sends to cause more swelling, even in regular fork seals). This makes sense with what I saw last year when I "rebuilt" the forks with new oil and new seals....it took a bit of force to get the Intiminator's out, as in I had to turn the fork leg upside down and compress it until the Intiminator shot out with force into my plastic oil collection pan. Likewise during installation, I simply could not just "drop them in"...I had to use the fork spring to help them slide in the fork.

So the guy from Ricor confirmed that I will need to trim down this seal ring. I just pop it off the Intiminator like a piston ring, remove some material either by filing or cutting with diagonal cutters, and reinstall. Once that ring is back on the body of the Intiminator, it should drop right down the fork tube with no resistance. Ricor confirmed that it is OK if it's slightly loose, the effects are not very noticeable.

Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

planemanx15, this may fix your problem!
Quite often, the sealing ring is a little too large for a fork leg.

The internals of the fork legs are not completely true and the tighter tolerances of the sealing ring can cause problems.
Try swapping the Intiminators around and see if they still make the noise.

They should slide down the fork tube with the weight of the spring and only a tiny bit of pushing.

Trim a couple of mm off one end of the rings and you'll be sweet.

When I was looking for some for my TT350, Ricor wouldn't just supply some for 41mm forks as the internal measurements (wall thickness) is different with different forks.
They wanted the internal measurement down to the 1/10th of a mm.
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:31 PM   #69836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.



Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

planemanx15, this may fix your problem!
I love it when a Wild A$$ Guess makes me look good.

Now I wonder if the clicking is an audible signal that the Intiminator ring is swelling and starting to stick?

Eakins, I hadn't read your Intiminator thread for awhile and had forgotten how well it was explained and photo'd.
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:50 PM   #69837
disconnected
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Hi Gang, I used the Search function and found some tid-bits. My DR has the stock tires still and they are pretty warn out. I am looking for some 50/50 tires, what rides well with the DR? I am considering the TKC and Maybe the Kenda Big Block. What type of miles do you guys get from these and what else do you suggest. Mainly for dirt roads, paved commuting and maybe some light singletrack.

greg
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:52 PM   #69838
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Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Hi Gang, I used the Search function and found some tid-bits. My DR has the stock tires still and they are pretty warn out. I am looking for some 50/50 tires, what rides well with the DR? I am considering the TKC and Maybe the Kenda Big Block. What type of miles do you guys get from these and what else do you suggest. Mainly for dirt roads, paved commuting and maybe some light singletrack.

greg
Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:05 PM   #69839
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Great, Thanks, I was going to look up the T63, since the search function found those in my previous search!. :)

greg

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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:34 PM   #69840
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T63 is pretty awesome for the offroad bits, but they wear quickly, cup, and run hot on pavement. They are my tire of choice for the KLR, but it doesn't see much dry pavement.

If you aren't playing in the mud, I'd look at the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv tires. Smoother on the pavement, enough tread for everything else, and better wear. If it helps, I've run BT003s in the conditions you listed on my 'tarded DR, the muddy sections were, ummm, fun(?), but otherwise, they offered a tolerable level of traction offroad.
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