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Old 10-04-2012, 05:16 PM   #14566
NoobIAm
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Originally Posted by greasy rider View Post
The only plus is that their is a store that sells beer within walking distance of my apartment.
Sounds like you're gonna be drinkin' a lot of it if you keep doing business there.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:55 PM   #14567
ducnut
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Originally Posted by Top Gun View Post
Hey Guys,
I've been lurking for a couple of years and thought I'd join up and show off my new bike. Traded in a 2008 KLR for this 2013 Tiger 800. Ordered in July and just came in last week. I wanted to wait for one in Explorer blue. I'm glad I waited.
I test rode numerous bikes and did massive research (thanks to this site) before deciding the T800 would best fit my style of riding.

Accessories include Triumph factory front beak fender, radiator guard, crash bars, skid plate, larger windscreen, handguards, and headlight protector. Added Rox risers (these were a great addition), SW-Motech racks and the TraX boxes. Top rack and box yet to come. Still working through the break-in period before my first trip.
Darrell
If you lay a tape measure from the bike's centerline to the outside of each TraX box, are they symmetrical?

I really dislike some of the BMW GS systems where one box clearly sticks out further than the other.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:01 PM   #14568
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Originally Posted by greasy rider View Post
Sorry for the long post.

I took my t800xc in for the 6000 mile service yesterday. When leaving to today after picking the bike up i immediately notice that the check engine light came on and that the speedometer was reading zero at any speed. I promptly turned around and headed back to the dealer where they pulled it in the shop and started looking at it. They got back with after a half hour ( kudos for the quick diagnosis ) and this is the story i got. When they hooked the bike up to the computer to check for any codes and sync the throttle bodies the computer prompted for a tune update. The tech went ahead and let triumphs auto configuration program run and loaded the new tune. The explanation gets kind of fuzzy at this point,but in the end the non abs tune ended up on a abs bike and since the abs models pull the speed from the wheel sensors and not the crankcase sensor the tune isn't able to give the computer a vehicle speed. The computer also kicks a check engine light for a speed sensor fail because their isn't a speed sensor on the bike to read. The computer wont let them load the right tune so they are going to call triumph in the mourning to see what they can do. I planned on leaving for a 4day trip/vacation in the mourning and am now frustrated and need a drink.
Isn't there software out there that will let you correct this?

Oh yeah, I guess you would need an OBD connector to do this. I have one that came with my Cobb Accessport that tunes my Subaru WRX. I am thinking of downloading the software so that I can maintain this kind of stuff myself. You can also find out what kind of coded triggered the check engine light with a tool like this.

BTW, Autozone or a similar type of shop may have one you can borrow so that you can do it yourself. I am sure there is a lot of info on the forums about this.

That being said, I will be going to my dealer soon for my 6000 mile. How much $ did it run you?

JG
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:26 PM   #14569
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Originally Posted by live2ridetahoe View Post
Isn't there software out there that will let you correct this?

Oh yeah, I guess you would need an OBD connector to do this. I have one that came with my Cobb Accessport that tunes my Subaru WRX. I am thinking of downloading the software so that I can maintain this kind of stuff myself. You can also find out what kind of coded triggered the check engine light with a tool like this.

BTW, Autozone or a similar type of shop may have one you can borrow so that you can do it yourself. I am sure there is a lot of info on the forums about this.

That being said, I will be going to my dealer soon for my 6000 mile. How much $ did it run you?

JG
The invoice was 295 but i bought the dealer service plan when i got the bike. I ride enough that the 3 years free maintenance will pay for itself about twice over. So far seven months and 6000 miles. The only thing is that they are trying to get out of paying for the chain rubbing strip on the swing arm that the owners manual specifies to replace every 6000 miles. I need to pull the contract and re read what it says.

Edit: The contract has in big bold letters UNLIMITED SERVICES AS SPECIFIED IN OWNER'S MANUAL AT NO CHARGE TO THE CUSTOMER. As their is no disclaimer as to what applies and what doesnt i plan on taking the manual and contract with me the next time im their and let them look at the plainly worded replace at 6000. Im not usualy this much of an a$%hole but i dont like paying for stuff i dont recieve.

greasy rider screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 06:37 PM
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #14570
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Even though the service wasn't major you were still putting it in the hands of the dealer and who knows what can get wrong at that point.
I had the 12K service done at the dealer because I wasn't comfortable doing the valves myself. I got the bike home and 500ish miles later pulled the rear wheel to change the tire. Rear pads were shot. Toast. Maybe, 500 miles until grinding. Jeez.

I feel sorry for those that depend on dealers for service. They didn't mention anything to me about my brakes, then what? I know there are some good ones out there. Choose wisely folks! I took the old pads back and the sales guy was pissed. Unfortunately, he doesn't have much control over service at the Harley dealer
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:50 PM   #14571
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Originally Posted by greasy rider View Post
I'm not usualy this much of an a$%hole but i dont like paying for stuff i dont recieve.
After looking up the part and seeing that its only six bucks it might be better just bite the cost instead of getting into a pissing match and ruining any sense of goodwill i have with the service department. Since i have to keep coming back for maintenance for the next two and a half years, or pay for the parts to do it myself.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:51 PM   #14572
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Originally Posted by levain View Post
I had the 12K service done at the dealer because I wasn't comfortable doing the valves myself. I got the bike home and 500ish miles later pulled the rear wheel to change the tire. Rear pads were shot. Toast. Maybe, 500 miles until grinding. Jeez.

I feel sorry for those that depend on dealers for service. They didn't mention anything to me about my brakes, then what? I know there are some good ones out there. Choose wisely folks! I took the old pads back and the sales guy was pissed. Unfortunately, he doesn't have much control over service at the Harley dealer
I just finished doing the valves on my wife's Street Triple, wasn't too bad, a little more room than on my Honda CBF, there's just a ton of connectors and hoses to get the air box off. All the valves were in spec so I didn't have to pull the cams, two were just at the spec but I figure within spec is within spec so they're good till next time. I got the bike all back together and tried starting it but no fuel pump? Had to go pick up my wife and it hit me, I had forgotten to plug in the spark plug coils. I was taking my time and being methodical but I must have tucked the connectors up out of the way while checking the valves. So now I have to pull the whole entire thing apart again! I really wish I could fire the guy or just yell at him, but it wouldn't do any good. At least I work cheap.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #14573
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Darrel - great looking bike my man! I have been waiting to see pictures of the blue as that is what I will be ordering. Looks fantastic. Don't be shy of posting some more pics taken from different angles.

Viper770- we will have the same bike combination. I have a "11 WR250R and will be getting a Tiger XC after I sell the Goldwing. I had a KLR for three years as well so it sounds like we also share a history.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #14574
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Originally Posted by bross View Post
I just finished doing the valves on my wife's Street Triple, wasn't too bad, a little more room than on my Honda CBF, there's just a ton of connectors and hoses to get the air box off. All the valves were in spec so I didn't have to pull the cams, two were just at the spec but I figure within spec is within spec so they're good till next time. I got the bike all back together and tried starting it but no fuel pump? Had to go pick up my wife and it hit me, I had forgotten to plug in the spark plug coils. I was taking my time and being methodical but I must have tucked the connectors up out of the way while checking the valves. So now I have to pull the whole entire thing apart again! I really wish I could fire the guy or just yell at him, but it wouldn't do any good. At least I work cheap.
Well, that's just it; you didn't have to pay someone for the mistake.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:11 PM   #14575
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Originally Posted by greasy rider View Post
After looking up the part and seeing that its only six bucks it might be better just bite the cost instead of getting into a pissing match and ruining any sense of goodwill i have with the service department. Since i have to keep coming back for maintenance for the next two and a half years, or pay for the parts to do it myself.
I think if you went in there and started off the conversation with "Look, I'm not trying to be a hardass, but,....." you'd probably get the guide. If they still refuse, then, threaten to contact Triumph NA. The bottom line is that you paid good money for the service contract. They need to honor that.

I went through the same crap, with my GF's car and her dealer. She didn't spend the money, up front, for all these services only to have them try and skimp out of doing the work. Likewise, I paid for an OLF with complete chassis lube, on my truck. When I saw that the zerks hadn't been touched, I headed right back in and went through a heated discussion with the service advisor. He tried to blow it off as if the tech missed them. I corrected him and pointed out that he missed every single zerk on the truck, as I had already been under it checking. I further pointed out that the techs get bonuses, based on generated shop hours, and I don't appreciate paying for something that the tech decided to skip to save time. Now that both vehicles are out of warranty, I do all my own services. So many of these arrogant dealers treat customers as if they're dumbasses. It makes me sick.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #14576
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Thanks for the kind words everybody. I appreciate it.

Yohan - The Tiger feels really nice, especially coming from a KLR. The KLR was great, and it took me many cool places, but the Tiger is a much, much nicer bike. I decided that I was pretty much done with trails filled with mudholes and ledge rocks as I don't heal very fast anymore. Getting the T800 vs. the XC will hopefully keep me primarily on the nice roads. Pretty much a toss up between the two of those but I preferred the tubeless tires and what I perceive to be the better cornering manners of the T800 so that's what I went with. Plus I really wanted the blue one.

Ducnut - I would swear that the boxes are exactly symmetrical as it looks like they are from the rear, but when I measured them the right side smaller box was 21 inches out from center, and the left side bigger box was 20 1/2 inches out from center. I understand what you are talking about and agree. You can't see the half inch when looking at the bike. I'm just borrowing the silver boxes from the dealer until the all black ones that I ordered come in. I looked at both colors on the bike, and prefer the look of the black boxes.

Riverman - More photos...



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Old 10-04-2012, 08:20 PM   #14577
Vzuke
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New Rubber for the Tiger & Wheel install question.

I bought a set of Dunlop Trailmax TR-91's. Nice looking tire, DEEP tread on the rear, should last awhile. I had to measure the tread depth, it was 8MM or about 5/16". It's almost a knobbie! I'll let you know how they perform.

The question I have is with the front wheel install. The way I took it off was to remove the front fender, this enabled me to pivot the lower fork legs/calipers out of the way to pull the wheel off. I didn't look at the set up before I removed it but the right caliper (sitting on the bike) looks very close to the rotor. Very Close.

I figured that installing the axle should put the lower fork legs and calipers back into alignment, right? I mean the fender bolted up normally so they should be aligned.

I even went to the PartsBandit site to make sure those wheel spacers were the same size on both sides, and they are.

Signed
Worry Wart
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:13 PM   #14578
bross
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
Well, that's just it; you didn't have to pay someone for the mistake.
And I was way quicker getting in there this time now that I knew what went where. Actually did have the coils plugged in but not the fuel pump connector. Took me longer to find the damn plug than to pull the tank and airbox off. No wonder I missed it. Never again though. Bike runs WAY better now that the fuel pump is plugged in.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:46 PM   #14579
browneye
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Originally Posted by Vzuke View Post
I bought a set of Dunlop Trailmax TR-91's. Nice looking tire, DEEP tread on the rear, should last awhile. I had to measure the tread depth, it was 8MM or about 5/16". It's almost a knobbie! I'll let you know how they perform.

The question I have is with the front wheel install. The way I took it off was to remove the front fender, this enabled me to pivot the lower fork legs/calipers out of the way to pull the wheel off. I didn't look at the set up before I removed it but the right caliper (sitting on the bike) looks very close to the rotor. Very Close.

I figured that installing the axle should put the lower fork legs and calipers back into alignment, right? I mean the fender bolted up normally so they should be aligned.

I even went to the PartsBandit site to make sure those wheel spacers were the same size on both sides, and they are.

Signed
Worry Wart

I just saw those tires for the first time last weekend at a show. Great looking tire. Definitely want to hear how they perform on and off pavement. Available in the stock sizes to boot.

My front wheel comes out without removing the fender. Just tweak the legs out a bit and the wheel comes out.

One of the easiest front wheel R&R's I've seen. Except the stupid factory doesn't give you a tool for the axle. Wow - how do you fix a flat without one?????
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #14580
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