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Old 10-05-2012, 08:32 AM   #25366
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
Glad I found this thread!

Started cycling a couple of months back on a Trek Hard Tail 4300.

Got the road bug because I like speed and distance so I found a brand new Gios Drop which turned out to be a cyclocross bike(I had no clue).

Usually put 70 to 100 plus miles per week with one longer ride of 40 to 80 miles per week. Working on getting to the century and possibly doing some touring.

So far it has received a rack, speedplay frog peddles(my knees have been saved!), shorter stem to reduce reach, and tomorrow will get a nashbar full carbon fork with FSA Gossamer brake. Also have saddle bags and lights.

Need to learn the art of hydration and nutrition here in the desert as well as get a seat that will coddle past 30 miles.

When I ride I always breathe through my mouth and it is always parched.

Any suggestions on a seat? I think I have narrow sit bones.

Also, touring groupset? It has Sora running gear with Sugino triple crank. I want less moving parts and tiagra or 105 dual chain ring, and assorted running gear.
What Gios model do you have? Is it the Pure Drop?

Why are you swapping the fork and front brake to what you ordered? If you have the Pure Drop, the fork that's on it will ride better than a carbon fork.

As stated, if you're parched, you're probably already dehydrated before even starting. I make sure to down one 22oz bottle of water per hour, on the road, while sipping on a Gatorade at the beginning of each long ride. I, also, drink about a gallon of water, everyday. Yes. I urinate a lot.

You'll have to try seats, before buying. Most shops will allow you to do a test ride, before committing. Currently, I'm on a Brooks B17 Imperial (in addition to the cutout, the crown is different than a B17). I've found that I can pretty much tell if a seat is going to workout, within a mile. If I have pressure points, I know it won't work.

I think you'll find that the cost of upgrading your drivetrain to Shimano 105 is going to be fairly expensive, relative to what your entire bike costs. If you're just wanting a double chainring, then, look at installing a compact crankset and leave the rest. Compact cranksets are available in 50/34T or 48/34T. Your LBS can help you select and install the right components.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:04 AM   #25367
pierce
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re: seats, I've rather liked the less extreme of the Specialized Body Geometry seats. most of them come in several widths, as my sit bones are relatively wide, so I prefer the wide ones rather than the skinny. I haven't bought one in a few years, and of course, all the new ones are different, but the Avatar Expert looks like the sort of thing I'd put on a road bike for non-racing duty. A specialized dealer should have a saddle fitting thing you sit on to determine where your bones are and which seat size would be a good fit.


I rode on Brooks saddles in the early part of 1970s, and when Avocet introduced the first of the modern style saddles circa 1980, I couldn't wait to switch. I still like the classic Avocet Touring II, there's one on my 1970s Motobecane Grand Record touring bike, i rather wish someone still made seats like this.

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pierce screwed with this post 10-05-2012 at 09:20 AM
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #25368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
What Gios model do you have? Is it the Pure Drop?

Why are you swapping the fork and front brake to what you ordered? If you have the Pure Drop, the fork that's on it will ride better than a carbon fork.

As stated, if you're parched, you're probably already dehydrated before even starting. I make sure to down one 22oz bottle of water per hour, on the road, while sipping on a Gatorade at the beginning of each long ride. I, also, drink about a gallon of water, everyday. Yes. I urinate a lot.

You'll have to try seats, before buying. Most shops will allow you to do a test ride, before committing. Currently, I'm on a Brooks B17 Imperial (in addition to the cutout, the crown is different than a B17). I've found that I can pretty much tell if a seat is going to workout, within a mile. If I have pressure points, I know it won't work.

I think you'll find that the cost of upgrading your drivetrain to Shimano 105 is going to be fairly expensive, relative to what your entire bike costs. If you're just wanting a double chainring, then, look at installing a compact crankset and leave the rest. Compact cranksets are available in 50/34T or 48/34T. Your LBS can help you select and install the right components.
It is the Drop model with chromo fork. I could have gotten another bike with what I have put into this one.

I don't care much for the shifters/derailleurs as the seem a little sloppy and need constant adjustment.

Also not sure what bars are going to work best. I am never on the drop portion of the bars so bull horns with mtb style shifters and levers could be an option.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:30 AM   #25369
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
It is the Drop model with chromo fork. I could have gotten another bike with what I have put into this one.

I don't care much for the shifters/derailleurs as the seem a little sloppy and need constant adjustment.

Also not sure what bars are going to work best. I am never on the drop portion of the bars so bull horns with mtb style shifters and levers could be an option.
sounds like you should hav ebought a hybrid, then, and not a road bike.



(thats got rather fat 35c tires on it, there are hybrids with thinner wheels).

I second the motion on compact 50-34 cranksets... I put one on my last bike, and plan on doing the same to this one. I setup the last one so that the 50 could be used in all 8 rear gears and the 34 could only be used in the lower 4 or so, by modifying the chain line so the 50 was nearly centered on the rear. This was very effective, I rode the bike on the 50 most of the time, and only used the 34 for hill climbs. the modern setup is a 2x10 using a compact crank and a 10 speed rear, this gives you very close spaced gears with out having to constantly shift the front back and forth like you did with older setups like the classic 52-42 front on that old Motobecane I posted a couple back.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:38 AM   #25370
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Just back from a ride and about 5 miles from home, felt like I had a flat on the back. FUCK. Got off, took a look, nope tire is good - WTF the whole wheel is buckled to fuck. mmmm on closer inspection, a spoke nipple had broke - spoke was fine but the nipple had just broke clean off. Never seen that before. I figured I was OK to ride home - slowly - on it. I backed the brakes way off so it wouldn't catch and crawled home.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #25371
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Just back from a ride and about 5 miles from home, felt like I had a flat on the back. FUCK. Got off, took a look, nope tire is good - WTF the whole wheel is buckled to fuck. mmmm on closer inspection, a spoke nipple had broke - spoke was fine but the nipple had just broke clean off. Never seen that before. I figured I was OK to ride home - slowly - on it. I backed the brakes way off so it wouldn't catch and crawled home.
I've had spoke heads break off at the hub, usually on cheap wheels, but never had a nipple break. What sort of wheel was this?
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:44 AM   #25372
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A 32 yo male rider gone just hours ago.

Chicago is super bike friendly but I just saw this one on the news. Rider swerved to avoid a parked car, who's door came flying open, and unfortunately into the path of said semi traveling behind him.

The car driver was sited for opening the door into the bike lane.

Be on the ball at all times folks.

STORY
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #25373
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New pic.

Awesome movie

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Old 10-05-2012, 01:14 PM   #25374
ducnut
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Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
I don't care much for the shifters/derailleurs as the seem a little sloppy and need constant adjustment..
Make sure your cables are in perfect condition and that there's no slack in your derailluer cables. Make sure the cables and derailluers are properly lubed. Also, the quality of the chain and chainrings have a big influence on shifting performance. Some of the lower quality rings have ramps stamped into them, but, have no pins to grab the chain and lift it. Likewise, less expensive cassettes have less tooth manipulation, which affects rear shift performance. Lastly, inexpensive chains sometimes lack the finite manufacturing steps that allow a more expensive chain to climb teeth.

My GF's first road bike has the same setup as yours and it shifts fine. Granted, it's no Dura-Ace or Red, but, it gets the job done. I have scrutinized the drivetrain, but, still can't get it to shift as cleanly as the some of the other drivetrains we have. Some of it has to do with the aforementioned quality differences and some is the chainline issues that a triple crankset causes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
Also not sure what bars are going to work best. I am never on the drop portion of the bars so bull horns with mtb style shifters and levers could be an option.
Consider a more upright stem. There are 125 degree versions available, which will raise your bar position. QBP's housebrand is Dimension and they're usually around ~$20 each. You can go to QBP's site, where they have an online "flip" catalog and look at what's available.

It looks like the Gios bar is only 120mm drop, so you're not going to find much shallower than that.
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:35 PM   #25375
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2013 Kona bikes are up.

Diggin' the Rove.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:18 PM   #25376
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I feel the need to apologize for those of you in my neck of the woods experiencing this cold snap - and maybe even a little snow. I think I know why...the bike fairy came to see me yesterday


Nice bike Barrett. I've always been a Yeti fan and most recently had a ASR-sl until I went big wheels. I'm just waiting for them to come out with a x-country 29er and then I'll be back in the tribe.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:25 PM   #25377
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
What Gios model do you have? Is it the Pure Drop?

Why are you swapping the fork and front brake to what you ordered? If you have the Pure Drop, the fork that's on it will ride better than a carbon fork.
I was worried when I read this but it is on the bike now and damn this thing is light and super smooth compared to the chromoly fork.

Huge upgrade!

Will have to get some pics up here soon. Needs a bath.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:11 AM   #25378
ducnut
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Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
I was worried when I read this but it is on the bike now and damn this thing is light and super smooth compared to the chromoly fork.

Huge upgrade!
Hmmm. That's contradicts what I've experienced, as well as the bike forums I follow. I'm wondering if that Gios fork was originally a MTB design (stiff for extreme use and strength).

I'm glad it has worked out for the best, for you.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:43 AM   #25379
Chillis
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
Hmmm. That's contradicts what I've experienced, as well as the bike forums I follow. I'm wondering if that Gios fork was originally a MTB design (stiff for extreme use and strength).

I'm glad it has worked out for the best, for you.
Everything I have read states that carbon will smooth out road vibrations better than alternative materials.

I think the stock fork suffered from excessive oscillation when going over road imperfections.

I could watch the wheel bend back when on the brakes before.

Looking forward to more mileage with the smoother ride. Carbon frames must really be nice!

As for shifting, now that the cables have broken in it is OK. Fresh oil on moving parts does make the shifting/drivetrain more refined.

It would be nice to have a groupset that would require minimal fiddling and lubing for 3 to 500 miles at a time.

For the gent asking why I didn't get a hybrid; I wanted to try a road bike so I bought what I thought was a roadie. Ended up with my current ride and luckily it is set up for multiple conditions usage. Has mounts for the rack built in. Love having it even though it is not aerodynamic. Want to tour as I dial in comfort and increase mileage.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:33 AM   #25380
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Nice bike Barrett. I've always been a Yeti fan and most recently had a ASR-sl until I went big wheels. I'm just waiting for them to come out with a x-country 29er and then I'll be back in the tribe.

The 95 suspension is supposedly quite nice for xc as well, but I haven't had the opportunity to find out for myself. This new ride got here 4 days ago and I haven't had as much as the chance to bed the brakes yet . School's getting really tough and then a cold front moved in...didn't wanna ride in the cold with a cold. Now it's snowing/freezing rain...not really the best conditions to get the brakes ready and get everything adjusted.

Also just got a call that my hardtail is out of the OR. 3 black bikes in the house now. (err 4 if you count the DRZ). May go get the Gitane out of consignment today too...it ain't sellin'. Is there a point where this becomes hoarding?
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