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Old 10-04-2012, 04:05 PM   #69856
disconnected
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Great, Thanks, I was going to look up the T63, since the search function found those in my previous search!. :)

greg

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:34 PM   #69857
thetable
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T63 is pretty awesome for the offroad bits, but they wear quickly, cup, and run hot on pavement. They are my tire of choice for the KLR, but it doesn't see much dry pavement.

If you aren't playing in the mud, I'd look at the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv tires. Smoother on the pavement, enough tread for everything else, and better wear. If it helps, I've run BT003s in the conditions you listed on my 'tarded DR, the muddy sections were, ummm, fun(?), but otherwise, they offered a tolerable level of traction offroad.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:47 PM   #69858
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+1

I love them both. For the rear, the T63 tends to be a little cheaper, which usually makes it a slightly better bargain IMO, but the D606 can often be found for about $80 on sale. Both perform very well, and they last about the same amount of miles.

For the front, I prefer the 606 for offroad duty.




Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:05 PM   #69859
Phreaky Phil
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Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Ok, per the suggestion of inmates here I did verify a few things:
-With the front axle clamp loosened (and the axle tight), I still experience the same stiffness.
-I purchased a Motion Pro Fork Alignment Gauge, which verifies that the forks are parallel when measured below the fender and just above the brake rotor.

I also noticed today a strange noise today, which I recorded. The noise sounds like a clunking during each compression/rebound. The "stiction"/drag I am feeling may be more related to damping then actual friction...kind of hard to explain.

Watch the video and let me know what you think. Notice the noise, and how I have to pull the bike up and "aid" it on its rebound to return to a somewhat normal ride height.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI5ZEIfTJ_g

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the Ricor Intimidators, be it product flaw or operator error.
When I was talking to Robert at Kiwi Suspension Solutions about them, he told me they looked at using them but noticed a clicking sound and traced it to the Intiminators poping out of there seats when the suspension is first compressed.
If you want to contact him http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815869. His email is on there.
They won't use them because of this trait.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:33 PM   #69860
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Hi Gang, I used the Search function and found some tid-bits. My DR has the stock tires still and they are pretty warn out. I am looking for some 50/50 tires, what rides well with the DR? I am considering the TKC and Maybe the Kenda Big Block. What type of miles do you guys get from these and what else do you suggest. Mainly for dirt roads, paved commuting and maybe some light singletrack.

greg
It depends on what kind of surfaces you're riding. I run a cheap ($28), capable-in-dry-dirt Shinko 244 up front most of the time. It handles pavement well, wet or dry, and can be reversed if it starts cupping. It's no knobby in soft stuff or wet clay though. For that, I use an MX knob. In Florida, that means a $21 AMS Sand Snake. It grabs on mud, sand, clay, grass, deep gravel, riding buddies, small woodland critters, the sofa, and pretty much any other soft surface you can find. It doesn't do hard surfaces, like pavement, very well though. I ride it around town and on slab to get to trails, but it wears out much quicker than something like a Shinko 244, and I don't brake/corner hard on pavement with it.

I run a cheap, long-wearing DS tire in the rear...the $60 Kenda K761. I add extra grooves to the outer treadblocks on these, and make the shallow center grooves full-depth. While lateral traction isn't great offroad, it propels the DR surprisingly well through some nasty stuff if I can just keep it under me and stay on the gas. I got over 6K miles out of my last one, with tread still left on it. Some people see 10K+ miles with this tire.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:38 PM   #69861
Jammin
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Suzuki calls for the same CDI part number from 1998 to current. 96 and 97 are a different part number but I don't know exactly what the difference is.

The anti-theft resistor is in the key switch which is also the same for 1998 to current with 96 and 97 being different. That makes me think that your SA mechanic is correct but it would only apply to 96 and 97 bikes. I couldn't find any mention of what year your bike is.

HERE are instructions for eliminating the factory key switch and replacing it with a simple on/off switch. Details for wiring in a separate resistor can be found there.
A million thanks, Jeff That's the info I was looking for
Yup, I scoured the parts fiche and found the same P/N for the CDI for all the model years, but your info sounds more reliable and thanks for the link, that's exactly what I wanted to know, how to bypass the ignition switch if need be and sounds like I can make into a proper anti-theft device I'll take all the parts I need from here.

My bike is a 1998, so I just made the cut for the current CDIs this means my 2006 CDI should work. Good, one problem solved.

The South African mechanic said he thought the resistor changed from a 400 ohm to 100 ohm but wasn't sure what year that change happened.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:53 PM   #69862
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thanks
oh hell i probably have one of the very 1st ones produced, but i don't have any clicking and they went in easily. i'm gonna change me oil out this winter so i'll pull them and see how they fit now.

what oil height have people settled on?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I love it when a Wild A$$ Guess makes me look good.

Now I wonder if the clicking is an audible signal that the Intiminator ring is swelling and starting to stick?

Eakins, I hadn't read your Intiminator thread for awhile and had forgotten how well it was explained and photo'd.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:56 PM   #69863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil View Post
When I was talking to Robert at Kiwi Suspension Solutions about them, he told me they looked at using them but noticed a clicking sound and traced it to the Intiminators poping out of there seats when the suspension is first compressed.
If you want to contact him http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815869. His email is on there.
They won't use them because of this trait.
the lower sealing ring popping out of the lower body groove?
or the center body coming out of the lower body?
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:47 AM   #69864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Great, Thanks, I was going to look up the T63, since the search function found those in my previous search!. :)

greg
My buddy ran T63's on his KLR, and it handled a 1000+ mile trip that was 99.9% pavement without any complaints. After that, they still had plenty of tread left for us to go messing around in the desert. They aren't going to be great in the soft sand, but I don't think any 'dual sport' tire is going to be worth much in deep, soft crap.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thetable View Post
If you aren't playing in the mud, I'd look at the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv tires. Smoother on the pavement, enough tread for everything else, and better wear.
I run 705's on my DR650, and they're very awesome for what they advertise as being capable of. They're a solid 75/25 street/dirt combo, and if all you do is harder packed stuff, they won't let you down. Considering you can get a set of these tires shipped for the price of a single D606 rear, they're a complete steal. Still, if you want something offroad oriented, the 700's or 244's might be more worth consideration.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:39 PM   #69865
NC Rick
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Forks wanted

If anyone has a nice condition set of stock DR650 forks available, we would really like to have a set. Cash or trade for suspension work...

Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
(828) 628 9025
raceparts (at) motocd (dot) com
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:46 PM   #69866
Bronco638
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BergDonk (Steve) is making counter-shaft seal retainers. His first production run is complete and already spoken for. I would like one and if (at least) 5 others are interested, I'll be point man for another 6 units (or more).



I am not going to require any up-front money as long as your word is good. I have this posted in three different places. So, if you're interested, please send a PM to me. Common sense says to create a new "group buy" thread where I'll keep a running tally of who's in. Once we have (at least) 6, I'll place an order with Steve.

The price will be $40 for the retainer plus a portion of what it costs to get them from Oz to the US and then from me to you. I would imagine ~$50 each?
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:14 PM   #69867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
If anyone has a nice condition set of stock DR650 forks available, we would really like to have a set. Cash or trade for suspension work...

Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
(828) 628 9025
raceparts (at) motocd (dot) com


e-mail sent
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #69868
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
e-mail sent
I thought of you right away. New seat is the bomb. Did 110 miles with Viverid today You are the used parts guru.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:37 PM   #69869
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I thought of you right away. New seat is the bomb. Did 110 miles with Viverid today You are the used parts guru.
I really should start getting rid of stuff. I've collected way too much over the years.
Nice day for a ride, hope you and Vince had fun.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #69870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letskeepriding View Post
anyone used a Dirtracks.com rack & side crash bars ?
I just got mine in the mail tonight and they look very well made. Should be sturdy enough to withstand crashes and the finish is a glossy black. I'll be mounting them up in the morning with 720 seahorse cases and will post a pic tomorrow.

Did a quick bathroom scale check and the racks, crossbar, and mounting hardware come out to 8lbs even. Not terrible in my opinion.
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