the DR650 thread

[thumpididump]

+1

I love them both. For the rear, the T63 tends to be a little cheaper, which usually makes it a slightly better bargain IMO, but the D606 can often be found for about $80 on sale. Both perform very well, and they last about the same amount of miles.

For the front, I prefer the 606 for offroad duty.

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.

[Phreaky Phil]

Originally Posted by isaac004

Ok, per the suggestion of inmates here I did verify a few things:
-With the front axle clamp loosened (and the axle tight), I still experience the same stiffness.
-I purchased a Motion Pro Fork Alignment Gauge, which verifies that the forks are parallel when measured below the fender and just above the brake rotor.

I also noticed today a strange noise today, which I recorded. The noise sounds like a clunking during each compression/rebound. The "stiction"/drag I am feeling may be more related to damping then actual friction...kind of hard to explain.

Watch the video and let me know what you think. Notice the noise, and how I have to pull the bike up and "aid" it on its rebound to return to a somewhat normal ride height.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI5ZEIfTJ_g

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the Ricor Intimidators, be it product flaw or operator error.

When I was talking to Robert at Kiwi Suspension Solutions about them, he told me they looked at using them but noticed a clicking sound and traced it to the Intiminators poping out of there seats when the suspension is first compressed.
If you want to contact him http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815869. His email is on there.
They won't use them because of this trait.

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by disconnected

Hi Gang, I used the Search function and found some tid-bits. My DR has the stock tires still and they are pretty warn out. I am looking for some 50/50 tires, what rides well with the DR? I am considering the TKC and Maybe the Kenda Big Block. What type of miles do you guys get from these and what else do you suggest. Mainly for dirt roads, paved commuting and maybe some light singletrack.

greg

It depends on what kind of surfaces you're riding. I run a cheap ($28), capable-in-dry-dirt Shinko 244 up front most of the time. It handles pavement well, wet or dry, and can be reversed if it starts cupping. It's no knobby in soft stuff or wet clay though. For that, I use an MX knob. In Florida, that means a $21 AMS Sand Snake. It grabs on mud, sand, clay, grass, deep gravel, riding buddies, small woodland critters, the sofa, and pretty much any other soft surface you can find. It doesn't do hard surfaces, like pavement, very well though. I ride it around town and on slab to get to trails, but it wears out much quicker than something like a Shinko 244, and I don't brake/corner hard on pavement with it.

I run a cheap, long-wearing DS tire in the rear...the $60 Kenda K761. I add extra grooves to the outer treadblocks on these, and make the shallow center grooves full-depth. While lateral traction isn't great offroad, it propels the DR surprisingly well through some nasty stuff if I can just keep it under me and stay on the gas. I got over 6K miles out of my last one, with tread still left on it. Some people see 10K+ miles with this tire.

[Jammin]

Originally Posted by procycle

Suzuki calls for the same CDI part number from 1998 to current. 96 and 97 are a different part number but I don't know exactly what the difference is.

The anti-theft resistor is in the key switch which is also the same for 1998 to current with 96 and 97 being different. That makes me think that your SA mechanic is correct but it would only apply to 96 and 97 bikes. I couldn't find any mention of what year your bike is.

HERE are instructions for eliminating the factory key switch and replacing it with a simple on/off switch. Details for wiring in a separate resistor can be found there.

A million thanks, Jeff That's the info I was looking for
Yup, I scoured the parts fiche and found the same P/N for the CDI for all the model years, but your info sounds more reliable and thanks for the link, that's exactly what I wanted to know, how to bypass the ignition switch if need be and sounds like I can make into a proper anti-theft device I'll take all the parts I need from here.

My bike is a 1998, so I just made the cut for the current CDIs this means my 2006 CDI should work. Good, one problem solved.

The South African mechanic said he thought the resistor changed from a 400 ohm to 100 ohm but wasn't sure what year that change happened.

[eakins]

thanks
oh hell i probably have one of the very 1st ones produced, but i don't have any clicking and they went in easily. i'm gonna change me oil out this winter so i'll pull them and see how they fit now.

what oil height have people settled on?

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I love it when a Wild A$$ Guess makes me look good.

Now I wonder if the clicking is an audible signal that the Intiminator ring is swelling and starting to stick?

Eakins, I hadn't read your Intiminator thread for awhile and had forgotten how well it was explained and photo'd.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

When I was talking to Robert at Kiwi Suspension Solutions about them, he told me they looked at using them but noticed a clicking sound and traced it to the Intiminators poping out of there seats when the suspension is first compressed.
If you want to contact him http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815869. His email is on there.
They won't use them because of this trait.

the lower sealing ring popping out of the lower body groove?
or the center body coming out of the lower body?

[neo1piv014]

Originally Posted by disconnected

Great, Thanks, I was going to look up the T63, since the search function found those in my previous search!. :)

greg

My buddy ran T63's on his KLR, and it handled a 1000+ mile trip that was 99.9% pavement without any complaints. After that, they still had plenty of tread left for us to go messing around in the desert. They aren't going to be great in the soft sand, but I don't think any 'dual sport' tire is going to be worth much in deep, soft crap.

Originally Posted by thetable

If you aren't playing in the mud, I'd look at the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv tires. Smoother on the pavement, enough tread for everything else, and better wear.

I run 705's on my DR650, and they're very awesome for what they advertise as being capable of. They're a solid 75/25 street/dirt combo, and if all you do is harder packed stuff, they won't let you down. Considering you can get a set of these tires shipped for the price of a single D606 rear, they're a complete steal. Still, if you want something offroad oriented, the 700's or 244's might be more worth consideration.

[NC Rick]

If anyone has a nice condition set of stock DR650 forks available, we would really like to have a set. Cash or trade for suspension work...

Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
(828) 628 9025
raceparts (at) motocd (dot) com

[Bronco638]

BergDonk (Steve) is making counter-shaft seal retainers. His first production run is complete and already spoken for. I would like one and if (at least) 5 others are interested, I'll be point man for another 6 units (or more).



I am not going to require any up-front money as long as your word is good. I have this posted in three different places. So, if you're interested, please send a PM to me. Common sense says to create a new "group buy" thread where I'll keep a running tally of who's in. Once we have (at least) 6, I'll place an order with Steve.

The price will be $40 for the retainer plus a portion of what it costs to get them from Oz to the US and then from me to you. I would imagine ~$50 each?

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by NC Rick

If anyone has a nice condition set of stock DR650 forks available, we would really like to have a set. Cash or trade for suspension work...

Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
(828) 628 9025
raceparts (at) motocd (dot) com

e-mail sent

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by vfr870

e-mail sent

I thought of you right away. New seat is the bomb. Did 110 miles with Viverid today You are the used parts guru.

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

I thought of you right away. New seat is the bomb. Did 110 miles with Viverid today You are the used parts guru.

I really should start getting rid of stuff. I've collected way too much over the years.
Nice day for a ride, hope you and Vince had fun.

[FuzzyNugs]

Originally Posted by letskeepriding

anyone used a Dirtracks.com rack & side crash bars ?

I just got mine in the mail tonight and they look very well made. Should be sturdy enough to withstand crashes and the finish is a glossy black. I'll be mounting them up in the morning with 720 seahorse cases and will post a pic tomorrow.

Did a quick bathroom scale check and the racks, crossbar, and mounting hardware come out to 8lbs even. Not terrible in my opinion.

[DockingPilot]

Originally Posted by 805gregg

Except put any weight on the XR and the subframe fails, and the 690, bad vibrations, and anyone like lots of and hard maintance? Get a DR and put a 790 kit it, it will blow the rest away.

Regarding the 690. Where did you get that from ? I own a DR and love it and my buddy owns a 690 that I ride from time to time. The fact is it vibrates no more or less then our DR's and maintenance is stupid simple. It's not the 950 adventure. I could buy a 690 tomorrow if I wished but I don't because the DR does it for me. Now if you said the DR was more reliable then I could agree with you. But the vibe and maintenance comments are just incorrect. keep it real eh ?

[isaac004]

Originally Posted by isaac004

THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.

I just got off the phone with Ricor and explained my problem, and what they told me was the first round of Ricor's (mine were probably installed by the original owner around 2007-2009) had a slight issue with the seal ring being slightly too large. This is also exasperated by the fact that once it soaks and swells slightly from the fork oil, it becomes even bigger (Pro Tip: Belray sends to cause more swelling, even in regular fork seals). This makes sense with what I saw last year when I "rebuilt" the forks with new oil and new seals....it took a bit of force to get the Intiminator's out, as in I had to turn the fork leg upside down and compress it until the Intiminator shot out with force into my plastic oil collection pan. Likewise during installation, I simply could not just "drop them in"...I had to use the fork spring to help them slide in the fork.

So the guy from Ricor confirmed that I will need to trim down this seal ring. I just pop it off the Intiminator like a piston ring, remove some material either by filing or cutting with diagonal cutters, and reinstall. Once that ring is back on the body of the Intiminator, it should drop right down the fork tube with no resistance. Ricor confirmed that it is OK if it's slightly loose, the effects are not very noticeable.

Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

planemanx15, this may fix your problem!

So yesterday I got around to making the modification described above. After draining some oil and pulling the spring out, I had to compress the fork while it was upside down in a oil pan, and slowly compress the fork to get the Intiminators out. Well not once but TWICE did I end up spraying oil all over the floor as it shot down with force into the oil pan. I should have built a little cardboard wall/fort around the pan so I did not have to spent half a hour wiping off of everything.



I removed about 1mm from each oil ring, and as I put everything back together it was MUCH easier to slide the Intiminators back in the forks. Now I had hopes. After finishing off the re-assembly with Maxima 5wt oil, I bolted everything back together. Time for the moment of truth...

..and no dice. It feels and sounds exactly the same as before.

Not sure what to do at this point. Might be a good time to upgrade to Gold Valves for slightly better off road performance!