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Old 10-05-2012, 06:44 PM   #13801
sallydog
no more Green KLR
 
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Joined: May 2007
Location: exit 98 NJ
Oddometer: 5,323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
I much prefer to make my own harness with a simpe relay and fuse or circuit breaker. It's not a true plug and play. It could be, it comes that way from the factory, but you don't want to run 55w HIDs through the factory wiring, especially with the known weak connectors.
35w HIDs should be fine with factory wiring. 55w you'll want to run a harness or relay.

Besides that, yeah, mount the ballasts and the bulbs fit right in.
so new 10 wire to the fuse block with the factory headlight wire to a relay to the new ballast harness
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sallydog screwed with this post 10-05-2012 at 06:53 PM
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:29 AM   #13802
johnpitts01
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Location: Philly
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NJ HID buy

Sallydog - post on here or PM me if you pull the trigger on this. I'd like to go HID on the S 10. But I am no electrical wiz. If you figure this out I'd like to takae advantage of you and just copy your install.

John
South Jerz

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Originally Posted by sallydog View Post
so new 10 wire to the fuse block with the factory headlight wire to a relay to the new ballast harness
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:31 AM   #13803
sallydog
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Joined: May 2007
Location: exit 98 NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnpitts01 View Post
Sallydog - post on here or PM me if you pull the trigger on this. I'd like to go HID on the S 10. But I am no electrical wiz. If you figure this out I'd like to takae advantage of you and just copy your install.

John
South Jerz
dont need to be a whiz, this is an easy one
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Its not who dies with the most toys.. Its who wears out the most toys
Just dip me in beer and toss me in the drunk chicks.
if you havent grown up by age 50 you dont have to
Heaven's the place where all the dogs you've ever loved come to greet you
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:27 AM   #13804
Mikef5000
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It is straight forward. Here's how I wired it (in more detail), this is going to sound more difficult than it really is.

Positive battery terminal goes to the input on a circuit breaker (but a fuse would work just fine here too).
Output of the circuit breaker goes to terminal 30 on a relay.
Terminal 87 on the relay goes to the 2 red wires coming off the HID Ballasts.
The 2 black wires coming off the HID ballasts, as well as terminal 86 on the relay connect to ground.
Terminal 85 on the relay needs to connect to a switched positive; I ran a wire up and into one of the headlight housings, and it connects with a spade connecter into the OEM headlight plug (the positive one, which in my case was blue). With a good wiring diagram, I'm sure you could find the correct wire behind the side cover, and running a wire into the headlight housing wouldn't be necessary.)

That's it!

Also worth mentioning, you're not cutting or defeating the factory headlight wiring/connectors at all, so, if something fails while you're out on the road, whether it be an HID bulb or ballast, or even just the relay, you can simply pop a standard H7 bulb back in there and plug the factory connector back into it, and all will be good.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:17 AM   #13805
sallydog
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Joined: May 2007
Location: exit 98 NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
It is straight forward. Here's how I wired it (in more detail), this is going to sound more difficult than it really is.

Positive battery terminal goes to the input on a circuit breaker (but a fuse would work just fine here too).
Output of the circuit breaker goes to terminal 30 on a relay.
Terminal 87 on the relay goes to the 2 red wires coming off the HID Ballasts.
The 2 black wires coming off the HID ballasts, as well as terminal 86 on the relay connect to ground.
Terminal 85 on the relay needs to connect to a switched positive; I ran a wire up and into one of the headlight housings, and it connects with a spade connecter into the OEM headlight plug (the positive one, which in my case was blue). With a good wiring diagram, I'm sure you could find the correct wire behind the side cover, and running a wire into the headlight housing wouldn't be necessary.)

That's it!

Also worth mentioning, you're not cutting or defeating the factory headlight wiring/connectors at all, so, if something fails while you're out on the road, whether it be an HID bulb or ballast, or even just the relay, you can simply pop a standard H7 bulb back in there and plug the factory connector back into it, and all will be good.
nice. im ordering today
__________________
Its not who dies with the most toys.. Its who wears out the most toys
Just dip me in beer and toss me in the drunk chicks.
if you havent grown up by age 50 you dont have to
Heaven's the place where all the dogs you've ever loved come to greet you
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:56 PM   #13806
crazyjeeper
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas, TX
Oddometer: 377
Got some new rubber spooned on mine. I decided to try the Pirelli Scorpion Rally.

Front:


Rear:


I put about 35 miles on them and so far I am pleased. The front hooks up really well in gravel and the rear has awesome drive. It does have a bit of a tendency to step out under power but TC2 keeps that under control quite nicely.

Only real downside is that they probably won't last that long, and they encourage me to ride everywhere pretending I'm running the Dakar.



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Old 10-06-2012, 06:01 PM   #13807
sallydog
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Joined: May 2007
Location: exit 98 NJ
Oddometer: 5,323
they look god. what did the cost and i wonder what kind of mileage they will give you... i got 15600 from a k60 rear and 14000 from a k60 front. i paid $325 for the set delivered. my new front k60 was 107 from the dealer my brother works at but that rear perelli looks sweet
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Its not who dies with the most toys.. Its who wears out the most toys
Just dip me in beer and toss me in the drunk chicks.
if you havent grown up by age 50 you dont have to
Heaven's the place where all the dogs you've ever loved come to greet you
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:04 PM   #13808
sallydog
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Joined: May 2007
Location: exit 98 NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnpitts01 View Post
Sallydog - post on here or PM me if you pull the trigger on this. I'd like to go HID on the S 10. But I am no electrical wiz. If you figure this out I'd like to takae advantage of you and just copy your install.

John
South Jerz
order your set, you come up, we will do both together. if you buy the beer
__________________
Its not who dies with the most toys.. Its who wears out the most toys
Just dip me in beer and toss me in the drunk chicks.
if you havent grown up by age 50 you dont have to
Heaven's the place where all the dogs you've ever loved come to greet you
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:05 PM   #13809
johnpitts01
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Philly
Oddometer: 856
HID's

It's a deal! I will order tomorrow.

The only remaining reason I had for not going to HID's was the idea that if the lights blow while traveling then I am SOL. Seems the stock bulb housing remains. As he said "just plug in a bulb and you are good to go".

What kinda beer you like? How about Yuengling?


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order your set, you come up, we will do both together. if you buy the beer
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:07 AM   #13810
johnpitts01
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Philly
Oddometer: 856
Stoltec Suspension

Spent the day with Nick at Stoltec. He installed the Penske shock, new fork springs and valves. Then Nick worked his suspension tuning magic dialing the bike in just for me.

All I can say is
WOW! HOLY COW! FOOKIN FANTASTIC!

The bike is transformed.

With the stock suspension I could feel every ripple in the road. Nothing harsh but I knew they were there. Now I dont feel those little ripples at all. Bigger bumps the bike just soaks them up. The roads from my house to Nicks have some nasty frost heaves. A couple of them would pitch the bike pretty good with the stock suspension. Lift my ass off the seat. No more!!

And now the best part.
Cornering is super. The bike is completely neutral. Just point it and go. Feels like its on rails.

Well worth the investment. I am completely satisfied.
Nick is a super nice guy and will work with you to optimize the suspension for you. Whether you install yourself or have Nick do it. If you are within range of Nick's place in Bangor you should strongly consider making the trip and having Nick do the install and optimization. I arrvied at Nick's @8am and was driving home @ 3pm.

John






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Old 10-07-2012, 06:11 AM   #13811
ANutt
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Location: Canton, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnpitts01 View Post
What's that case you have behind your seat?
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:16 AM   #13812
twinrider
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Joined: Aug 2002
Location: 日本
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnpitts01 View Post
Spent the day with Nick at Stoltec. He installed the Penske shock, new fork springs and valves. Then Nick worked his suspension tuning magic dialing the bike in just for me.
Sounds great, what valves and forks springs did you use? Any chance you can post the suspension settings for those folks too far away to visit him?
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:41 AM   #13813
Dallara
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: South Texas
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Thumb Stoltec...

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Sounds great, what valves and forks springs did you use? Any chance you can post the suspension settings for those folks too far away to visit him?

I got a custom Penske shock from Nick at Stoltec as well as the forks revalved, new springs, etc. and I live in South Texas. It was no problem. Get Nick your size, riding style, riding preferences, etc. info, he orders up the shock from Penske with the appropriate valving and spring along with the fork valves and springs he needs. When he knows those are shipping from Penske he lets you know and you ship your forks to him. Everything hits his shop about the same time, he's done with the fork rebuild within a couple of days depending on his work load, and then everything is shipped back to you.

Fast, easy, and perfect service. My forks and the new shock were in my hands within a week from when I shipped them out.

Oh, and the new compression and rebound valve bodies he installs are Penske also, but with valve stacks he works up for your specs.

I was more than satisfied with his work, and I was even more impressed with his customer service, communication, and support.

http://www.stoltecmoto.com/

Please note, I am not connected with, nor affiliated in any way with Stoltec, other than as a 100% satisfied customer.

BTW, there are complete threads over on the Yamaha Super Ténéré forum about Stoltec and his shocks, fork revalving, etc.

Dallara



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Old 10-07-2012, 08:57 AM   #13814
johnpitts01
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Philly
Oddometer: 856
Rear Case

The case is from Axio.
Not sure if they still make it.
I bought mine online from Twigg Cycles. They have (had) some in stock.
I was hoping the blue would match the S10 blue. It didn't. So I painted it to match.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MudNut View Post
What's that case you have behind your seat?
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:01 AM   #13815
johnpitts01
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Philly
Oddometer: 856
Stoltec Suspension settings

Nick did the suspension completely. If you contact Nick at Stoltec and reference my bike he can give you the settings.

I told him I always ride solo - never a passenger. I weigh @ 200 pounds nekked. Mostly ride with no additional weight. For extended travel I will have 40-50 pounds of gear in panniers and bags mounted to the rear of the bike. Ride 80% on paved surfaces. Off road will be fire roads and gravel. Don't expect anything too technical with the S10 but want the suspenstion to handle gravel road washboards well. Nick configured the suspension based on these requirements.

I urge you to contact Nick and tell him what you want from the suspension and he will work with you until you are satisfied.


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Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Sounds great, what valves and forks springs did you use? Any chance you can post the suspension settings for those folks too far away to visit him?
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