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Old 10-06-2012, 07:42 AM   #31
runnin4melife OP
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What picture are you referring to? I have definitely seen some slap together mods that are functional but not aesthetically pleasing. I was tooling around on a trail about a month ago and was going slow enough that it didn't snap my front fender but the TKC picked up a rock and sucked it up, it left a good 1-2 cm gash all through the inside of the fender and I felt the bike slow down like I was hitting the brakes before I heard a slight pop and watched it spit out the rock about 15 ft in front of me. After that I was determined to complete the mod for my safety. Seeing as I usually only drive on the road to get off road it is highly beneficial for me. That and since I am running the TKCs I do not go over 80mph so I am not too worried about the wind issues from the modification.


"You got me started thinking again about the eliminating of the low fender, with the addition of the SM fender.... But every time I see someone doing this.... I'm scarred from one inmates picture of Gonzo........ It's terrible.... I'm scarred for life.... It is a fantastic solution, but I don't feel I am there yet...."
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #32
SDDinNH
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
But every time I see someone doing this.... I'm scarred from one inmates picture of Gonzo........ It's terrible.... I'm scarred for life....
He's probably talking about my avatar. It really doesn't help that my 658 is the dark blue one, so the resemblance to Gonzo is even more striking. That and the fact that when someone asked what kind of creature Gonzo was, he was always referred to as being a "Whatever"

But I think the difference in the way the two look (stock vs raised fender) is that the beak goes more or less straight out where the raised fender has that "hooked" look to it because it's curved not straight. I would guess that it's a matter of taste as to which one looks better.
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SDDinNH screwed with this post 10-06-2012 at 08:19 AM
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:04 PM   #33
ebrabaek
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Wow that would be sweet it is a bit beyond my skill-set I believe but none the less it would be awesome. The vacuum sealing will have to wait for now but I like your idea of the custom mold etc... It would def have a market, as we cannot stop it with the farkle. I have seen quite a few of the custom high fenders and am trying to make mine look like it was intended to be that way, the issue like you said is following the lines of the body work and that will be difficult unless you fab a completely new upper panel. If you go that route will you just eliminate the need for a high front fender and absorb all the stuff flying into your face?
Most likely I will use a SM fender like everyone else did....But break the beak lines, as to avoid the " Gonzo Look" ...sorry...
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:08 PM   #34
ebrabaek
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I do offer my deepest apologies....as my earlier comment really was meant as a compliment, because of the fact that your setup got me thinking about this....again, as I dropped it last time,,,,because of,,,the ,,,ehhhhh.... Puppet thing....
I know better than to critique someone else taste.....and if you took it as such.....for that I am sorry. It is absolutely each own individuals taste..... nothing else.... I just shot my toe off.... by mentioning mine.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:02 AM   #35
runnin4melife OP
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Didn't offend me haha and if you did I didn't notice. I cut down the "wedge" that may suffice for the snub nosed section. Will play with it on Friday!!!!!

I will also be working on the CF, I am curious after watching your videos/stalking everything you published about CF fabbing in regards to the vacuum method to remove bubbles from your resin etc... is this necessary?

Also I have seen a video published by Polymer products regarding the use of acetone sprayed on the surface after it has set for a while to get a good bubble free piece. Besides the aesthetics should I be concerned about bubbles? Also would this be a good way to get a nice finish, I imagine this only works on completely flat surfaces to self level.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PKn-59pHNM <--- Acetone at 6:28
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:13 AM   #36
ebrabaek
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Didn't offend me haha and if you did I didn't notice. I cut down the "wedge" that may suffice for the snub nosed section. Will play with it on Friday!!!!!

I will also be working on the CF, I am curious after watching your videos/stalking everything you published about CF fabbing in regards to the vacuum method to remove bubbles from your resin etc... is this necessary?

Also I have seen a video published by Polymer products regarding the use of acetone sprayed on the surface after it has set for a while to get a good bubble free piece. Besides the aesthetics should I be concerned about bubbles? Also would this be a good way to get a nice finish, I imagine this only works on completely flat surfaces to self level.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PKn-59pHNM <--- Acetone at 6:28
I could answer that with a single ...yes.... But trying to be realistic... I'l change that to a perhaps. Try to pour a little cup of cool syrup in a cup before you eat your pancakes.... then pilfer a stir stick, and stir it. It will be almost impossible not to agitate the mix...or should I say aerate it a little. The bigger bubbles will get mashed out and popped with each layer of fabric, but the smaller get's trapped in there, and for your projects, most likely....all will be well. Unless you are making a rear swing arm....or anything structural. So in that case.... no .... it is not important. The moment you switch to a stronger epoxy requiring a post heat cure, that all changes, as the tiny bubbles now expands as air does while heated....and now they get big and ugly..... Just like the bully in fifth grade..... So it is desirable to de-gass the mix, before using it, and brush on the resin slooooowwwwweeeeely. How you do that, is up to you.... Heat... vacuum chamber.... de-gas dance.... your call....
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:34 AM   #37
runnin4melife OP
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
I could answer that with a single ...yes.... But trying to be realistic... I'l change that to a perhaps. Try to pour a little cup of cool syrup in a cup before you eat your pancakes.... then pilfer a stir stick, and stir it. It will be almost impossible not to agitate the mix...or should I say aerate it a little. The bigger bubbles will get mashed out and popped with each layer of fabric, but the smaller get's trapped in there, and for your projects, most likely....all will be well. Unless you are making a rear swing arm....or anything structural. So in that case.... no .... it is not important. The moment you switch to a stronger epoxy requiring a post heat cure, that all changes, as the tiny bubbles now expands as air does while heated....and now they get big and ugly..... Just like the bully in fifth grade..... So it is desirable to de-gass the mix, before using it, and brush on the resin slooooowwwwweeeeely. How you do that, is up to you.... Heat... vacuum chamber.... de-gas dance.... your call....

Ohhhhh this is going to be awesome, love learning new stuff. Just hope my garage trial and error schooling does not cost toooooo much haha! Also since I am using the Max Clear HP should I heat cure it a bit, I havent quite gotten to the big instruction booklet they sent with it yet.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:37 AM   #38
ebrabaek
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Ohhhhh this is going to be awesome, love learning new stuff. Just hope my garage trial and error schooling does not cost toooooo much haha! Also since I am using the Max Clear HP should I heat cure it a bit, I havent quite gotten to the big instruction booklet they sent with it yet.
As long as you have the garage over 75 deg. F. It will cure over night. If you want to speed things up a bit, then hop over to the hardware store, and spend 15 on a 150 watt or heat lamp.... Get the matrix to about 100-125..... It'l now set in a few hrs.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #39
runnin4melife OP
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
As long as you have the garage over 75 deg. F. It will cure over night. If you want to speed things up a bit, then hop over to the hardware store, and spend 15 on a 150 watt or heat lamp.... Get the matrix to about 100-125..... It'l now set in a few hrs.
Roger Doger, I already have that setup. I went ahead and built a small 4x4x4 paint booth to house the setup to keep dirst/dust out of it as well as have to heat lamps to maintain temp etc... It is starting to get cool here in MD so this will most likely be the option I utilize.

Last pressing question I have, as far as the foam mold I am utilizing. Once I have it sanded down it is still fairly porous, do I still apply wax/parrafin to get it to release or should I first coat it with resin and let it cure then use that as the base for the mold before proceeding to the CF?

Sorry for so many questions I just don't want to waste a lot of time or material learning simple things I could avoid.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:02 AM   #40
Herr Bae M. Vae
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Awesome! Motorcycle rhinoplasty! So you're still in med school but you're already a "practicing" plastic surgeon!
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:36 AM   #41
ebrabaek
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Roger Doger, I already have that setup. I went ahead and built a small 4x4x4 paint booth to house the setup to keep dirst/dust out of it as well as have to heat lamps to maintain temp etc... It is starting to get cool here in MD so this will most likely be the option I utilize.

Last pressing question I have, as far as the foam mold I am utilizing. Once I have it sanded down it is still fairly porous, do I still apply wax/parrafin to get it to release or should I first coat it with resin and let it cure then use that as the base for the mold before proceeding to the CF?

Sorry for so many questions I just don't want to waste a lot of time or material learning simple things I could avoid.
No worries about the questions....Keep'em coming...... I do not use the wax anymore.... extra cost, and labor, not a necessity.... as it ensures better release of the uhhmmmm... release agent..... If you are making a foam plug to make a high utilization mold,then yes coat with epoxy/sand, and repeat as necessary. If you are trashing the foam after use....Don't waste your time.....with the epoxy.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:37 AM   #42
ebrabaek
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FYI....

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Old 10-07-2012, 11:48 AM   #43
runnin4melife OP
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Awesome! Motorcycle rhinoplasty! So you're still in med school but you're already a "practicing" plastic surgeon!
Ha! I have no ambition for surgery, something about quality of life etc... has me more interested in emergency medicine where I will work 3 days a week and have 4 to devote to my mistresses
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #44
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Thanks for the video, I already watched all of yours on youtube hahaha! If I come up with a design I REALLY like for the snub nose I may make a mold of it for anyone that chooses to go this route as opposed to making a whole new front cowling like you have suggested.

I picked up an awesome table sander like the one in your video via craigslist. If I was back in Missouri I would have access to way to many nifty tools. I am making a bunch of machined parts when I go on leave after next weekend such as spacers, and brackets for the bike.
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:14 PM   #45
Herr Bae M. Vae
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Another possibility might be to fab a piece that at least somewhat filled that space but that attached to the forks or fender and turned when you turn the bars. Maybe you already considered this and decided against it. Nice work. The Beemer's reduced shnoz has already given it a prettier face.
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