the DR650 thread

[therivermonster]

Good morning everyone!!

A month or so back I decided that I wanted to recreate all the body parts of my DR650 with carbon fiber parts. I started a thread to share my progress learning how to do composite work and making the pieces for my DR. The last part that I will make will be a Dakar style fairing with a dash to hold all the goodies that we need on our bikes.

Lots of people have posted greats tips and tricks on the thread and I've included a great resource page to help others get started.

Follow along and if you're interested in making carbon fiber parts for your DR, do it! It's really easy.

Fun With Carbon Fiber

Teaser Pic. You can find many more in the thread...

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Thanas

Hi Guys,

So my question is,

Does anyone know the numbers for the rear wheel bearings from SKF?
All three bearings, the on in cush-hub, and the 2 bearings in the wheel hub.

I did find this:
hub: 20mm x 47 mm x 14 mm
cush: 25mm x 52mm x 15 mm

Correct?

Thanks,
Thanas

Posts 21 and 43. If you're new at this, 81, 83, and 88 might help.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634749

Originally Posted by therivermonster

Good morning everyone!!

Lots of people have posted greats tips and tricks on the thread and I've included a great resource page to help others get started.

Follow along and if you're interested in making carbon fiber parts for your DR, do it! It's really easy.

Fun With Carbon Fiber

Teaser Pic. You can find many more in the thread...

Very cool.

[Load Clear]

Originally Posted by motolab

The need to leave the cold start enrichment (technically BST40 carbs do not have chokes) active longer points to a lean problem. It sounds like the pilot jet may be getting some deposits in it.

Regards,

Derek

Thanks Derek:

So, will this enzyme additive work its way out after a couple tanks or do I need to drain the fuel? I added it to one tank. I've refueled only once so far but did not add any more startron. It is still not running well in first gear or on start up.

Thanks again.

[jessepitt]

Originally Posted by wee-twin

I recommend you look at the Seat Concepts seat. Cost about half of a Sargent and I have had Sargent and Corbin on other bikes and Seat Concepts would now be my first choice. There is a ADV discount which covers the shipping cost. For the discount use "ADVRIDER". Oh, my bike had the Suzuki gel seat when I bought it and I found it very uncomfortable.

I just got a Seat Concepts Tall foam kit and it is awesome! It made room for my knees and is very comfortable. There customer service is excellent. I called and talked to one of the owners who basically told me I could have any cover option I could dream up for $160 with free shipping for mentioning ADV. I got a carbon top with gripper sides on a tall foam. The install was a breeze and if you don't like how it turns out you can always pull the staples and do it over.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by Load Clear

So, will this enzyme additive work its way out after a couple tanks or do I need to drain the fuel? I added it to one tank. I've refueled only once so far but did not add any more startron.

I don't know for sure if your additive is at fault, but I do know that the need to use the cold start enrichment longer indicates a lean issue with the pilot circuit. I would replace the float needle if the tip is found to have a witness line, set the float height with the help of a float height setting tool to 14.7mm, replace the pilot jet and set the idle mixture via the following method:

Start the engine and warm it up. Set the idle CO to 3-4%. Set the idle speed to 1500 rpm. If you don't have a way to measure CO%, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

It is still not running well in first gear or on start up.

For diagnostic purposes, the gear is mostly irrelevant. Throttle position is the important thing:

Put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. With the help of the marks, determine precisely during what throttle opening(s) it misbehaves. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Regards,

Derek

[acesandeights]

To what is the front axle supposed to be torqued? I just r/r my front tire and don't have my manual to let me know the torque of the axle or the four axle nuts. I think the rear was around 70 - 75...but I can't remember the front. Thanks.

[disconnected]

sounds good, I will look this up too. :()) Im 6'2" so I would like a tall seat.

greg

Originally Posted by jessepitt

I just got a Seat Concepts Tall foam kit and it is awesome! It made room for my knees and is very comfortable. There customer service is excellent. I called and talked to one of the owners who basically told me I could have any cover option I could dream up for $160 with free shipping for mentioning ADV. I got a carbon top with gripper sides on a tall foam. The install was a breeze and if you don't like how it turns out you can always pull the staples and do it over.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by motolab

If you don't have a way to measure CO%, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.

[canoli]

Originally Posted by GISdood

Here's that video...

Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by canoli

Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli

I've been involved with 2 attempted rotations and both abandoned due to the amount of force needed and concern about breakage. This was with the carb held securely in a vice and the use of a heat gun to try and expand the body a bit away from the pipe. We cut them off, and threaded it and fitted a straight pipe to both.

Others have had no problems.

Good luck.

[poppawheelie]

Originally Posted by canoli

Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli

It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.

[poppawheelie]

Originally Posted by procycle

This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.

Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by poppawheelie

It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone.

My experience as well. I gave up and lived with it the way it is.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by poppawheelie

Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.

In is indeed leaner.

Regards,

Derek

[Thumper Dan]

Originally Posted by poppawheelie

It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.

the other option is to to buy a TM40 pumper carb