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Old 10-07-2012, 03:33 PM   #69871
Load Clear
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Now What?

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The need to leave the cold start enrichment (technically BST40 carbs do not have chokes) active longer points to a lean problem. It sounds like the pilot jet may be getting some deposits in it.

Regards,

Derek
Thanks Derek:

So, will this enzyme additive work its way out after a couple tanks or do I need to drain the fuel? I added it to one tank. I've refueled only once so far but did not add any more startron. It is still not running well in first gear or on start up.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:05 PM   #69872
jessepitt
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Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
I recommend you look at the Seat Concepts seat. Cost about half of a Sargent and I have had Sargent and Corbin on other bikes and Seat Concepts would now be my first choice. There is a ADV discount which covers the shipping cost. For the discount use "ADVRIDER". Oh, my bike had the Suzuki gel seat when I bought it and I found it very uncomfortable.

I just got a Seat Concepts Tall foam kit and it is awesome! It made room for my knees and is very comfortable. There customer service is excellent. I called and talked to one of the owners who basically told me I could have any cover option I could dream up for $160 with free shipping for mentioning ADV. I got a carbon top with gripper sides on a tall foam. The install was a breeze and if you don't like how it turns out you can always pull the staples and do it over.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #69873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
So, will this enzyme additive work its way out after a couple tanks or do I need to drain the fuel? I added it to one tank. I've refueled only once so far but did not add any more startron.
I don't know for sure if your additive is at fault, but I do know that the need to use the cold start enrichment longer indicates a lean issue with the pilot circuit. I would replace the float needle if the tip is found to have a witness line, set the float height with the help of a float height setting tool to 14.7mm, replace the pilot jet and set the idle mixture via the following method:

Start the engine and warm it up. Set the idle CO to 3-4%. Set the idle speed to 1500 rpm. If you don't have a way to measure CO%, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

Quote:
It is still not running well in first gear or on start up.
For diagnostic purposes, the gear is mostly irrelevant. Throttle position is the important thing:

Put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. With the help of the marks, determine precisely during what throttle opening(s) it misbehaves. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:20 PM   #69874
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To what is the front axle supposed to be torqued? I just r/r my front tire and don't have my manual to let me know the torque of the axle or the four axle nuts. I think the rear was around 70 - 75...but I can't remember the front. Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:25 PM   #69875
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sounds good, I will look this up too. :()) Im 6'2" so I would like a tall seat.

greg

Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I just got a Seat Concepts Tall foam kit and it is awesome! It made room for my knees and is very comfortable. There customer service is excellent. I called and talked to one of the owners who basically told me I could have any cover option I could dream up for $160 with free shipping for mentioning ADV. I got a carbon top with gripper sides on a tall foam. The install was a breeze and if you don't like how it turns out you can always pull the staples and do it over.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:11 PM   #69876
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you don't have a way to measure CO%, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.
This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:18 PM   #69877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GISdood View Post
Here's that video...

Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:41 PM   #69878
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli
I've been involved with 2 attempted rotations and both abandoned due to the amount of force needed and concern about breakage. This was with the carb held securely in a vice and the use of a heat gun to try and expand the body a bit away from the pipe. We cut them off, and threaded it and fitted a straight pipe to both.

Others have had no problems.

Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:48 PM   #69879
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli
It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #69880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.
Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #69881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone.
My experience as well. I gave up and lived with it the way it is.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:19 PM   #69882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.
In is indeed leaner.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:50 PM   #69883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.
the other option is to to buy a TM40 pumper carb

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Old 10-07-2012, 11:35 PM   #69884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli
Been there. With carb on bike and heated got about 20 deg. rotation. Tried for more and the tube kinked. Still runs fine 6K miles later. I'd probably leave it be or pull the stock tube and drill/tap for a straight fitting.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:06 AM   #69885
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For now I'm just going to leave it alone and before I head out to the middle of nowhere try to run my tank dry.

Thanks guys for the info. You just saved me from screwing up my carb.

Cheers,
Canoli
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