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Old 10-06-2012, 05:58 PM   #16
One Less Harley
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might as well do the 434 BB, as it doesn't cost anymore.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:42 PM   #17
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I havent heard any negative on a BB kit, however the very nature reduces longevity. Im slightly concerned with the head bolts. I had a xr600 with a 660 BB kit (10% over bore same as a 400 to 440) and it pulled the head off.

The big suck with my bike is I need a new head, thats $600 for a blank head. Im not reusing any parts from the seized head.

By rebuild I mean the kits they sell on line, theyre mostly bearings and gaskets, top end comes with a new piston...I dont think I need to go hog wild on a head, nothing fancy just stock parts aside from cams.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:50 AM   #18
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I would also suggest pulling apart the oil pump and look for wear/scoring. Then replace if necessary.

I rebuilt a blown up Yammie once and the oil pump had sucked some material and was surprised at the noticeable wear on the internal parts.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:22 PM   #19
Luke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
....I have to check the oil and water pump and inspect bearings.....

I was helping a friend with a DRZ that had a chronic overheating problem. Repeated blown headgaskets, warped head, etc. It turned out that the waterpump impeller had unglued itself from the shaft and would turn on the shaft with only a little resistance. Or, not turn when the bike was running. It looked good, though.

Doesn't sound like your problem, but it's easy to check when you're in there.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:46 PM   #20
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So im slowly going over the frame as well, looking for damage. I have noticed 3-4 spots where the paint has chipped away revealing some surface rust. Need to take care of that, just need to find a similar color spray paint...

Im srarting to think a yearly engine pull is in order, theres alot of nooks and crannies that harbor dirt/mud. Plus engine mounts need greasing. Pulled the frame drain plug to check the filter, looked clean aside from a lone long hair?!

Plan on splitting the case tomorrow and seeing what parts I need to start ordering.

Stay tuned...
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by focallength View Post
... I have noticed 3-4 spots where the paint has chipped away revealing some surface rust. Need to take care of that, just need to find a similar color spray paint...
Bookmarked this post a few years back.

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Old 10-07-2012, 07:52 PM   #22
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Nice ill go pick some up, ty.
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:13 PM   #23
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so here is the score so , far. Im waiting for a puller for the fly wheel then Ill split the case. Initial inspection shows some slight play in the rod, which means shes shot. I ordered a complete hot rods lower parts kit, to rebuild the bottom end. The gears arent blue, but I wont know until I can split the case. So far no definitive causes, the cylinder does show signs of previous wear and oil could have slipped passed the rings. The cylinder is nice and flat, but the head is pretty well warped.

Ill have the case honed just in case, so that both parts fit together perfectly.

Now the cylinder is salvagable, Ill prob. send it off to cylinder works or millenium and have them hone and replate it. Still not sure if I wabt to go with a BB or not.

The head is just a big paper weight, however there are signs of dirt being sucked into the valves, which is not that uncommon with a dirt bike. Just means Ill have to really check my air intake when I re install it. Most likely it happened over time, however I did notice that the FCR-MX carb dosent fit quite so well, so Im going to have to do something about that. Maybe find a airboot from another bike thats a little bit longer.

So lower parts kit should be here tomorrow as well as the puller, in addition Ill replace the countershaft bearings. Heres hoping the gears are good. Stay tuned, sorry no pics, nothing new to show...

I may pick up a kick starter kit though, should be easy to install with the engine in pieces...

focallength screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 02:49 PM
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:50 PM   #24
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Ok, one thing I wanted to fix was the fcr-mx airboot issue. Anyone who has one knows it barely fits and is prone to air gaps.
so I bought a 2 inch rubber coupler, trimmed the inside of one side so the air boot fits. I also trimmed the tab and one row of the rubber rings. The carb fits in with a little gap, which is no biggie as the ring tightens it down nice. I cut the coupling to about an inch, you only need about an extra 1/2 inch to make it fit.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Oh, never look into a pumper carb and turn the throttle wheel
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:20 PM   #25
Starchamp
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Why not just get an E boot? MacGyvering is best left for trailside repairs.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:44 AM   #26
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Agreed, mostly, and I wasn't referring to your exhaust tubing suggestion in particular, but rather the entire approach. I just think that with all the money being put into the engine, if it were my bike I'd not skimp on a $50 rubber boot (about how much they're going for on ebay, complete with entire airbox) and risk sucking unfiltered air into the works. To each his own, I guess.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:01 AM   #27
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Is the E boot longer? I just assumed the s and e boots were the same.
ive never heard anyone suggest the E boot, if its longer and makes the.carb fit properlly ill get one.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:39 AM   #28
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Yes. 4strokes.com offers the below as the complete list of parts needed for the FCR conversion, but you can probably get away with just the outlet boot:

Suzuki Part Numbers:
FCR Carb: 13200-29F10
Velocity Stack: 13670-29F00 (plus gasket and 2 screws)
Intake: 13111-29F00
Outlet: 13881-29F00
Clamp: 09402-58208
Clamp: 09402-60208
Throttle Cables: 58301-29F00

But again, I'd just grab one off of ebay rather than go through Suzuki.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:04 PM   #29
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Ok, so I finally got the cs bearings in, going to split the case, soon. But I was thinking, the head got real hot and may have damaged the head bolt threads on the case. So...ill send the case halves ofg and get some timeserts installed. This will prevent any strippage of the head bolts when putting the engine together, plus if I go BB itll strengthen the case so the head dosent pull itself apart. $100 will make the engine stronger and give some peace of mind.

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Old 10-17-2012, 04:10 PM   #30
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So, I think I finally have a solid number for a rebuild

Bottom end $575 w/cs bearings
cylinder, bored (434) plated with piston, clips/bearings etc... $450 (millenium, will ship a bored stock cylinder with a JE piston)
head $575
cams (hot cams) valves, springs etc...$625
rebuild clutch $400
timing chain,timeserts $175

$2800, not including parts for carb.

Will get a drz w/13.5 compression, 434 BB, stg 1hot cams, kibblewhite valves, hot rod bottom end, complete new clutch, strengthend head bolts.

focallength screwed with this post 10-17-2012 at 04:15 PM
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