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Old 10-09-2012, 08:37 PM   #25441
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman955i View Post
Well after 7 years of doing absolutely nothing as far as exercising. I have decided to get the mountain bike out and air the tyres up and try riding. I started last Thursday. I rode 10 miles and had 2 heart attacks a few coronaries and I'm not sure but I believe that I gave birth some where in there. It took me 1 hr and 51mins to ride 10 miles on flat ground. Skipped a day and road 10 miles on Saturday. not to bad I shaved it down to 1 hr and 10 mins and felt ok, besides the muscle burn and knee pain. I road 10 miles Monday and stayed in high gear the entire time with no stops forgot to carry a watch so I don't know how long it took. And it wasn't that bad at all. The only problem is my knees feel like they have ice picks jammed in them during and after. I know that the body posistion and seat height have a lot to do with this. I made sure the when my leg is in the fully extended position that it has a slight bend in it. But what else could I do or do I need to just keep pedaling and it will go away. Answers
drop the seat another 1/2" or so. stay in a lower gear so you're pedaling faster but easier, that requires more wind but less grunt, and less strain on your knees.

if that old mtn bike has knobbies on it, and you're mostly riding on bike trails and occasional hard pack, get some slicks or semi-slicks in like 26x1.75 instead of gnarlies in x2.125 or whatever you got now. for mostly pavement, run the tire pressure up near the max and it will roll easier. oh and clean and lube the chain..
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:46 PM   #25442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
drop the seat another 1/2" or so. stay in a lower gear so you're pedaling faster but easier, that requires more wind but less grunt, and less strain on your knees.

if that old mtn bike has knobbies on it, and you're mostly riding on bike trails and occasional hard pack, get some slicks or semi-slicks in like 26x1.75 instead of gnarlies in x2.125 or whatever you got now. for mostly pavement, run the tire pressure up near the max and it will roll easier. oh and clean and lube the chain..
I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:54 PM   #25443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
and... wheels.

WE7256 Handspun Pavement Series 5 Rear Wheel 700c 36h Shimano LX / Mavic A319 / DT Champion All Silver
WE7254 Handspun Pavement Series 5 Front Wheel 700c 36h Shimano LX / Mavic A319

(the number is QBP's PN).. those look to be a $200 'touring' wheelset. near as I can tell, Handspun is a QBP house brand for machine made wheels with a range of decent components, obviously these are at the lower end, but last I heard, Deore LX was OK stuff, as are Mavic rims (the A319 are a pinned 6106 alloy box 622x19 rim, recommended for 28 to 47mm tires, so my target range of 32-35mm should be fine... and if I get skinny and start riding farther, I can even put 28s on them).
That is a SOLID wheelset if they are built well.

LX is great stuff and A319's are good tough rims.

This would be a pretty typical budget (but still good) wheel for a loaded tourer around 200lbs rider weight.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:03 PM   #25444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman955i View Post
I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"
frame geometry has changed considerably since the classic bike days. in the 70s/80s, you wanted the tallest frame you could barely straddle for a road bike, and maybe 2-3" shorter for a pre-suspension mountain bike. with a 34" inseam, yeah a 26 or 27" frame would have been typical in a road bike. I am 6' tall, have 32" inseam, and rode a 24" road bike frame.

now days, the seattube length is less important, its really the top tube length that counts, and you want that sized to your torso... you can adjust for your leg length with the seat post, and your arm length with the stem and bar rise.. with those numbers, I'd say you're a L to XL bike in most lines.

if you do get a new mountain bike, look for a '29er' (29" wheels, really 700c mountain bike wheels), these are much better suited for big guys. if you're going to be mostly riding bike paths and occasional hard pack, a hybrid might be the way to go, and if you're going to get serious about speed and long distances, a full out road bike.

i'm back down to 210 lbs after being weighed in at 230 a few months ago, this is my 'hybrid' trail eater.



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Old 10-09-2012, 09:11 PM   #25445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud View Post
That is a SOLID wheelset if they are built well.

LX is great stuff and A319's are good tough rims.

This would be a pretty typical budget (but still good) wheel for a loaded tourer around 200lbs rider weight.

or for an overweight guy riding empty on that blue hybrid in my last post, eh? :)

so $200 for that pair is a pretty good deal, from what all I can see?

http://www.amazon.com/Handspun-Pavem.../dp/B007S4QXZ2
http://www.amazon.com/Handspun-Pavem.../dp/B007S4QXGQ

my frame has a 135mm BDC so that eliminates most road wheels. I just wish those came in black (the A319s' do but it doesn't look like handspun has them)

they have a whole line of these 'pavement' wheels aimed at touring/trekking/commuter bikes.

http://handspunwheels.com/products/#pavement
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:05 AM   #25446
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The wind was against me again. I failed to achieve my desired time/ average speed.

However, I WAS thwarted by the same road construction that has thwarted me the last three times. And i am getting better at semi spinning up the hills, maintaining better speed, and most important, stamina in the latter uphill sections.

I normally stop and rest, buy a candy bar, eat a Gu, just before a vicious 9 minute climb. About an hour and 15 minutes into my ride. I ate the Gu on the bike and hydrated while riding. Don't know if that helped or hurt.


2:10 hrs (3rd time with this exact time.)
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:44 AM   #25447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman955i View Post
I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"
Do you have any bike shops nearby? If so, I'd highly suggest going in a finding the most experienced mechanic/sales guy to pick their brain about sizing and components. You'll learn quite a bit about what has changed by just asking the right questions and looking over the bikes they have to offer. We're always here to help with the details, but you should at least get an idea of what is on the market today for your needs. I would imagine they've changed quite a bit since the purchase of that last bike. FWIW, I'm 5' 10 with a 32" inseam and ride a 19" frame... With setback seat posts and the plethora of stem combinations on the market today, you can really dial in a bike's geometry to fit your comfort and measurements. It's just going to take some time and understanding of what you want out of the cycling experience to get it right. Great job for getting back out there and riding again.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:09 AM   #25448
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Anyone here thinking of buying a new helmet?

I purchased this one with a new bicycle purchase last weekend and really decided I didn't need the helmet after getting home. I paid $85 as you see on the sticker, but I'll let one of y'all have it for $70 shipped. It says sm/md on size and I normally wear a 7-1/4 fitted hat or large moto helmet.





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Old 10-10-2012, 06:58 AM   #25449
mud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
or for an overweight guy riding empty on that blue hybrid in my last post, eh? :)

so $200 for that pair is a pretty good deal, from what all I can see?

http://www.amazon.com/Handspun-Pavem.../dp/B007S4QXZ2
http://www.amazon.com/Handspun-Pavem.../dp/B007S4QXGQ

my frame has a 135mm BDC so that eliminates most road wheels. I just wish those came in black (the A319s' do but it doesn't look like handspun has them)

they have a whole line of these 'pavement' wheels aimed at touring/trekking/commuter bikes.

http://handspunwheels.com/products/#pavement
Yeah, they should be great.
The LX/XT hubs are really quite good. Not very fancy but with very little care they will last many thousands miles.

Thanks for the Pavement info, I am looking for another set of wheels for my road bike (650B) and they have a good selection.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:46 AM   #25450
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"Gummee!" is correct, on the spacer. If the back of the cassette "spider" is flat, you'll need it. Otherwise, the "spider" will have a raised lip around the center hole, which eliminates the need for a spacer. If in doubt, your LBS can make a quick assessment.
Just as a note: I answer to Gummee! in meatspace too. No quotes needed.

Hey Pierce: if you hold out a bit, you may be able to finagle a SRAM 11sp cassette from the 1x11 setup on there.

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Old 10-10-2012, 07:49 AM   #25451
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Originally Posted by mud View Post
Yeah, they should be great.
The LX/XT hubs are really quite good. Not very fancy but with very little care they will last many thousands miles.

Thanks for the Pavement info, I am looking for another set of wheels for my road bike (650B) and they have a good selection.
The 'handspun' series of wheels from QBP are some well-built wheels for the $$. All the people building those things do for a living is build wheels.
Beats my couple pairs/year.

I've seen pricing on em. You can get the handspun stuff pre-built for less than you can get the bits and DIY. ...and that's wholesale!

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Old 10-10-2012, 07:53 AM   #25452
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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
The 'handspun' series of wheels from QBP are some well-built wheels for the $$. All the people building those things do for a living is build wheels.

I've seen pricing on em. You can get the handspun stuff pre-built for less than you can get the bits and DIY. ...and that's wholesale!
I agree.

Just the cost of DT SS spokes is alarming, compared to what a complete wheelset costs.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:32 AM   #25453
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Simply AMAZING!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #25454
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Had a long ride today. The goal was to finally get the century under my belt. Unfortunately the actual mileage number does not indicate 100 miles. Ended up with 86. But...the whole way back, half of the mileage, was done into a 20+ mph headwind which not only was ridiculously tough to push through, it was also deafening. I hated life the whole way back.

Near the Air Force base in Indian Springs, NV.


Pretty sure the calorie count is not taking into account that wicked head wind. At one point I was ready to stop and start shouting at mother nature.


As seen above, that is my new top speed...only limited by the short gearing of my bike. I know I can eek out 50+ if I had the gearing to keep torquing.

Also set my fastest ever mile under human power: 1m 37s. Had a bunch of sub 2 minute miles with that awesome tailwind on the ride out. Matter of fact, I averaged of 20mph for the first 44 miles.

So glad the day is over.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:51 PM   #25455
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Can anyone recommend a good dual chainring crank with wide ratio option for my bike?

Want to go Tiagra or 105 shifter and have my low gears and higher than what I have now.

I often times run out of gearing on top where I just can't spin the pedals any faster.

I am keeping the drop bars. The multi positions are a life saver on long rides.

Edit: One other thing, do they make add on guards so I can wear pants and ride without greasing the right pant leg or my leg for that matter?

Like on Pierce's hybrid but for a compact crank.

Chillis screwed with this post 10-10-2012 at 09:14 PM
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