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[achile]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

If that how Honda ships their XRR's with a lighting kit, I'm glad they didn't do that job on mine.

My friend, a good job is a blow job, but not everyone gets it :))). Some of us have to home brew it

[RyanE]

Shibby and Achile:

Thanks for the information - when I took the stator cover off to check things out (and check the valves) I was a bit surprised at the appearance and quality of the windings. That's why I initially thought it was some kind of home-brew re-wind. But it does appear to be exactly the same as the one that you have Achile.

I had a look at my Honda service manual and it lists the US spec'd version at 55w and the Australian spec'd version at 75w. Now, I'm not all that experienced with these things, but I DO know that I've got a helluva lot more windings on my stator than the US version for only a 20w increase. So, perhaps there is some sort of typo there in the manual or perhaps Honda did in fact offer this thing with a bit more output.

Unfortunately I am 1000's of k's from the bike right now (work in a remote area) but I do know that the headlight and tailight run off AC while the turn-signals/indicators and horn work off DC. One of the previous owners has added a capacitor after the reg/rec to smooth out the flow and has added a 12v plug for a GPS on the bars. I haven't had a chance to run any accessories off the DC side so I am unsure if the capacitor has the capability to "smooth" things out sufficiently for say a GPS or phone charger. I don't have a GPS right now, and the primary use of the 12v plug would be to charge my phone or iPod. Both of those charge with a USB type charger that puts out 5v DC. So, even at idle, I think they should be getting sufficient power. However, it may be that at idle/low rpm's the output fluctuates and this may cause charging chaos. In that case, I might wire up a battery in place of the capacitor.

Shibby - thanks for the input and list of what you are running with yours. I currently have LED signals, NO fan (I don't do much slow speed, high temp stuff - just desert/adventure riding) and no grip heaters (I'm in Australia, cold hands are the least of my worries). One of the PO's has added a larger, glass headlight lens and a 55/60W H4 light. It does dim a bit at idle, but at operating RPM's it seems to do just fine. I try not to ride at night ever (too many kangaroos/cows) but it can happen.

I think that when I get home in a few weeks from this shift, I'll spend a bit of time with a multi-meter and see what kind of output I'm getting. I'll report back

[achile]

Originally Posted by RyanE

Shibby and Achile:

Thanks for the information - when I took the stator cover off to check things out (and check the valves) I was a bit surprised at the appearance and quality of the windings. That's why I initially thought it was some kind of home-brew re-wind. But it does appear to be exactly the same as the one that you have Achile.

I had a look at my Honda service manual and it lists the US spec'd version at 55w and the Australian spec'd version at 75w. Now, I'm not all that experienced with these things, but I DO know that I've got a helluva lot more windings on my stator than the US version for only a 20w increase. So, perhaps there is some sort of typo there in the manual or perhaps Honda did in fact offer this thing with a bit more output.

Unfortunately I am 1000's of k's from the bike right now (work in a remote area) but I do know that the headlight and tailight run off AC while the turn-signals/indicators and horn work off DC. One of the previous owners has added a capacitor after the reg/rec to smooth out the flow and has added a 12v plug for a GPS on the bars. I haven't had a chance to run any accessories off the DC side so I am unsure if the capacitor has the capability to "smooth" things out sufficiently for say a GPS or phone charger. I don't have a GPS right now, and the primary use of the 12v plug would be to charge my phone or iPod. Both of those charge with a USB type charger that puts out 5v DC. So, even at idle, I think they should be getting sufficient power. However, it may be that at idle/low rpm's the output fluctuates and this may cause charging chaos. In that case, I might wire up a battery in place of the capacitor.

Shibby - thanks for the input and list of what you are running with yours. I currently have LED signals, NO fan (I don't do much slow speed, high temp stuff - just desert/adventure riding) and no grip heaters (I'm in Australia, cold hands are the least of my worries). One of the PO's has added a larger, glass headlight lens and a 55/60W H4 light. It does dim a bit at idle, but at operating RPM's it seems to do just fine. I try not to ride at night ever (too many kangaroos/cows) but it can happen.

I think that when I get home in a few weeks from this shift, I'll spend a bit of time with a multi-meter and see what kind of output I'm getting. I'll report back

Stay tunner... I have a mod in mind. I want to rewind the DC part into 4 windings and free up two of them to get some extra juice for the AC . First, I have to finish the top end rebuild. I'm putting in rings, intake valves, porting the heathers and some other stuff

[jules083]

I have the first ever long ride planned for this weekend, going to give this adventure riding thing a chance. Think the bag will make it? Spent my money on brake pads and tires, going to get a giant loop next payday. Ride Report coming on monday I hope.

[Looper]

Shameless plug for a Kenaroo XRR Rally Fairing I have up for sale in the Flea Market: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824759

[Shibby!]

I'd do something like this for my next bike.

http://www.bajadesigns.com/products/...torcycle-light


3600 lumens. Not sure what my 35 W HID 8" is but 3600 is a lot.

I'd just reshape my windscreen and run one of these. Lighter, very power efficient, small package, more durable, etc. At 42 W it confuses me which LED's their running. To the best of my knowledge the "best" commercial ones are 10W, but where do the other 2 watts come into play? 10W LED's are BRIGHT! Hell, 5W are stupid bright, even 3's are bright.

The dimmer switch is another 50$, but it doesn't change the fact the light still scatters. Likely to still piss off cars. I wish those floods had little projector lenses instead. Then have those run all the time, and two spots as the highbeams.

[palla62]

I would like to introduce you my Italian BRP






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[DocAxeYarYar]

[Fantuzzi]

Originally Posted by palla62

I would like to introduce you an Italian BRP






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That's a beauty!

[BigToad]

On the Italian BRP how are those lowers mounted to the acerbis tank? Looks like bolts?

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

$600 dollars?

http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/eseries6.htm

I remember when HIDs cost that, now you can get a ballast and a bulb for $25.

Spend a few hours here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/content.php

And build your own. Same drivers, same leds, maybe better better reflectors, aluminum box with mineral glass.

Yes, 35w hid is around 3500 lumens i believe, and 55w is like 3800 if I remember correcty.

[AJ..]

Hi all...

It's been awhile on this thread to live up to the front page...

So...I am bringing it up again...

At presant stage of my XRR rallye build...




It's still not yet finish though...still got to re-do the inner fairing support bracket,the front signals,the dashboards,the low fender bracket,and few other stuffs before it will hit the road....
Rallye woohhoo....just for the pose...


Cheers.

[palla62]

Originally Posted by BigToad

On the Italian BRP how are those lowers mounted to the acerbis tank? Looks like bolts?

They are simply screws.
You can see them also on the upper Buell78753 post

[lukeinlondon]

[QUOTE=palla62;19789309]I would like to introduce you my Italian BRP







info please..

[RalphyDo]

Originally Posted by AJ..

Cheers.

I like that. Any plans on making a few to sell?