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Old 10-11-2012, 05:41 AM   #69946
thetable
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Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
As for the girl changing tyres; got any video.
No vid, but if you're google-foo is strong, you can find pictures... And an article to go with.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:24 AM   #69947
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Wow. Just wow. This thread is awesome.

I am the proud new owner of a DR650. I can see my job performance is going to suffer due to this very thread. I just got a 2005 DR650 with only 800 miles on the clock. The guy I got it from only rode it 100 miles in the year he owned it!?! How that happened is beyond me because I just rode it 100 miles over the weekend. No adult should be able to have this much fun getting to work!

Question - since this bike is older, and has low miles, is there any particular maintenance I should do? I am assuming that I will need to do the oil, filters, etc. I do not know if the bike had the 600 mile valve adjustment tune up. It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms. I am sure I can find this info inside, but jeebus, there's a to sort through.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Wow, it's not even broken in yet!!!

I'd go ahead and change the oil since the oil in it could be up to seven years old at this point. Check the chain adjustment, maybe put in fresh spark plugs (there are two). If it has original tires (likely), replace them ASAP. Tires should be changed every seven years because the rubber goes hard in that time. Besides, the stock tires suck anyway. Look at the Shinko 705.. great, inexpensive, long-lasting tire that is surprisingly good off-road as long as it isn't sand or mud. I'd do fresh tubes while you're at it too, heavy duty.

Next up you'll want to do something with the seat before your ass goes on strike.. for that, www.seatconcepts.com.

Oh yes... and the NSU screw. Order up a clutch-side gasket first, but you'll need to pull the clutch basket and lock-tite the NSU screws before one of them falls out and lunches the transmission. It's the one fatal flaw in the DR650. Somebody probably has a link to the how-to thread on that. It's really pretty easy.

Rob
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:33 AM   #69948
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Wow. Just wow. This thread is awesome.

I am the proud new owner of a DR650. I can see my job performance is going to suffer due to this very thread. I just got a 2005 DR650 with only 800 miles on the clock. The guy I got it from only rode it 100 miles in the year he owned it!?! How that happened is beyond me because I just rode it 100 miles over the weekend. No adult should be able to have this much fun getting to work!

Question - since this bike is older, and has low miles, is there any particular maintenance I should do? I am assuming that I will need to do the oil, filters, etc. I do not know if the bike had the 600 mile valve adjustment tune up. It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms. I am sure I can find this info inside, but jeebus, there's a to sort through.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Same as what Rob said - oil, tires, tubes. I'd also just check out the air filter to see if any bugs decided to take up residence in your air box in the years it didn't get used. My buddy bought a 2008 Ninja 250 with super low miles, and a family of bees had set up shop in there. Couldn't hurt to thoroughly clean the chain, check it for rust, and put some quality chain lube on there. Maxima chain wax has worked damn good for me so far. As for tires, I'll throw another vote in for the Shinko 705's. If you're using it as a commuting machine, they're excellent, cheap, and they throw themselves around off road decently too.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:39 AM   #69949
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
... It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms...
The pilot jet is probably partially clogged from all that sitting around.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:04 AM   #69950
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetable View Post
Having spent years in a bicycle shop, I can replace a bike tire in five minutes, but still takes me closer to a half hour to mount up a tube tire on a motorcycle, even after mounting up more than a dozen. Some of the technique is the same, but it is much more difficult.
do it this way, with cable ties...5 minutes is possible with practice and it is nearly impossible to pinch the tube, very little force is required to get the tire on the rim (did not invent the method, learned it from another thread here) Also get some tire lube from Napa, makes the job easier and works better than soapy water. No need to cut the ties one the tire is on the rim, it is easy to release the locking tab with a small screwdriver so they can be reused




victor441 screwed with this post 10-11-2012 at 08:13 AM
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:46 AM   #69951
Ren20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
do it this way, with cable ties...5 minutes is possible with practice and it is nearly impossible to pinch the tube, very little force is required to get the tire on the rim (did not invent the method, learned it from another thread here) Also get some tire lube from Napa, makes the job easier and works better than soapy water. No need to cut the ties one the tire is on the rim, it is easy to release the locking tab with a small screwdriver so they can be reused



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Old 10-11-2012, 12:00 PM   #69952
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
The IMS tank seems extremely durable, and the white one looks like yellowed hell after a bit of heavy use.
Mine is still white and as far as I know, has been on the bike since 2002.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:15 PM   #69953
isaac004
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Took my 06 DR650 for a spin last night, after having it sit un-started since Feb of this year. While cruising around the neighborhood, I noticed that while stopped or coasting (when clutch was in), it would idle high. At first I felt some resistance in the throttle cable system when I would go (with engine off) to WOT and then let it snap back closed...it would not snap, but instead had some hangup. After closer inspection, all I had to do was trim a few mm off of the throttle grip so it would not rub on the handlebar guards. Now when I move the throttle to WOT, it snaps back nice and fast like it is supposed to. But the bike still idles high. In fact, when putting around off the throttle but with clutch engaged, you can tell that the increased idle speed is higher and wants to move the bike along.

So any ideas on why the idle speed is high? 90% of the time this is the case, 10% of the time it idles normally as my idle speed screw has not needed adjustment in quite along time. It's not coming from the cables being sticky, so I'm thinking something inside the carb could be sticking, especially since I did not drain the carb while it sat un-started for the last 8 months. I can see the cable wheel at the carb move freely and firmly against the idle speed screw stop when this is happening
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:27 PM   #69954
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Mine is still white and as far as I know, has been on the bike since 2002.
Mine is still white too, after two years of heavy use. It's dirty (hard to get the marks off), but definitely white where the black marks aren't.

Rob
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:44 PM   #69955
sandwash
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No yellowing on the clear IMS after 3 years.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #69956
Burnt Toast
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Craigslist find

No affiliation here, just browsing I came across this:

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mcy/3332280864.html

Motorcycle Mufflers - $75 (Greensboro)


Date: 2012-10-11, 4:24PM EDT
Reply to: tjccj-3332280864@sale.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]




THIS IS A PAIR OF SUZUKI MUFFLERS FOR SUZ1GR1300 SUZUKI MOTORCYCLE. PART NUMBER IS 24FOA



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Old 10-11-2012, 02:50 PM   #69957
neo1piv014
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Here's a mod I think everyone should do to their DR's. It's a little hard to stabilize off road, but the benefits are obvious when you finally reach your destination.




Also, if you're working on your bike in the garage, it provides a much needed distraction.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #69958
Mongle
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Dude, slow down!

But, we just got passed by a KLR...

I don't care; we are going WAY to fast!
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:15 PM   #69959
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The pilot jet is probably partially clogged from all that sitting around.
This.

I agree with Jeff. The first thing that went through my mind was.... "what happened to the gas left in the carb all those years?"
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:25 PM   #69960
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Question - since this bike is older, and has low miles, is there any particular maintenance I should do? I am assuming that I will need to do the oil, filters, etc. I do not know if the bike had the 600 mile valve adjustment tune up. It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms. I am sure I can find this info inside, but jeebus, there's a to sort through.

Any advice would be appreciated.
It sounds a lot like mine. 2008 model but only 3,000kms. I changed the oil and filter and the old oil was like black water. The new oil went black pretty quickly so I changed it again after another 300 miles and the new oil has stayed cleaner looking. Anyway, I have noticed that the thing seems to sort of be self cleaning itself and the gear changing is getting smoother, especially the neutral to first change. I also put in a magnetic drain plug and filter magnet so try and catch any wear debris.

As for the bogging down at low revs, they are a bit like that even when they're running tip top I think. It took me a while to adjust my riding style so that I was in the right gear coming out of corners and still misjudge it a bit sometimes and have to slip the clutch a tiny bit to get past that low rev "hammering" that they seem to do. I don;t think the "hammering" does any real damage but it still makes my mechanically sympathetic teeth itch.

*edit* meant to mention that when I did the oil changes I also did an engine flush, basically add about 250ml of engine flush like Nulon and then let it idle for 10 mins before draining the oil. It will thin the oil and dissolve some of the sludge that builds up inside the engine.
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