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Old 10-11-2012, 12:07 PM   #54061
joenuclear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc-razor View Post
That's some awesome seamstress work!
She's looking for her tits.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #54062
sc-razor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenuclear View Post
She's looking for her tits.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:33 PM   #54063
wayno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenuclear View Post
She's looking for her tits.
You know we would all help her find them!
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:23 PM   #54064
DrLewall
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You know we would all help her find them!
BS! We'd all be tripping over them!
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:39 PM   #54065
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BS! We'd all be tripping over them!
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:07 PM   #54066
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:32 PM   #54067
TRZ Charlie
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I need clutch advice.

I replaced the aftermarket clutch perch and lever with an OEM clutch perch and lever because I keep breaking clutch cables. The clutch was working perfectly but it is at a slight angle which may contribute to stress on the cable.

When doing this I used the same cable that was on the aftermarket perch (and working) but after the replacement, the clutch actuator won't disengage the gearing.

I thought the clutch plates were wet locked so I lowered the bike and started it in neutral and pulled the clutch lever in and clicked it into gear and the bike died.

I did this three times and adjusted the lever from loose to tight and got the same result. Figuring that there was slightly better pull on the after market perch I put it back on and got the same result.

The manual states the the clutch actuator post should be rotated counter clockwise toward the engaged position (towards the center of the motor). It is positioned as indicated.

What am I missing here? The only other thing I can think of is the clutch actuator fork has somehow become fouled up. Thoughts?
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TRZ Charlie screwed with this post 10-11-2012 at 06:38 PM
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:50 PM   #54068
joenuclear
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Hve you checked the stator?

















































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Old 10-11-2012, 07:02 PM   #54069
BIGASSDIRTRIDER100
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Yes it could now who do we know that knows Stator's
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:34 PM   #54070
Vinduroman
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Charlie:

Is the clutch hard to pull at the handlebar lever? Or, is it very easy to pull it in?

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Old 10-11-2012, 07:53 PM   #54071
mdawg12
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It was probably the guy that tighten the bolts holding the cable guide when the cable broke on the trail. Everyone knows how those engineers can screw up anything they touch.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:05 PM   #54072
mouthfulloflake
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charlie, was your basket in good shape when you replaced the frictions and steels? ( the fingers smooth, no notches, or burrs?)


ive done alot of adjusting on the dr350 clutch too,( broken a few perches, and handles...) and its a very precise thing to get it right in the 'zone' where it will engage and hold, and disengage and release.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:08 PM   #54073
TRZ Charlie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdawg12 View Post
It was probably the guy that tighten the bolts holding the cable guide when the cable broke on the trail. Everyone knows how those engineers can screw up anything they touch.
Nah, that works fine. The engineer knew his stuff.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:09 PM   #54074
TRZ Charlie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
charlie, was your basket in good shape when you replaced the frictions and steels? ( the fingers smooth, no notches, or burrs?)


ive done alot of adjusting on the dr350 clutch too,( broken a few perches, and handles...) and its a very precise thing to get it right in the 'zone' where it will engage and hold, and disengage and release.
Didn't replace the internals just the clutch perch the engine only has about 2800 miles on it now.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #54075
mouthfulloflake
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that right fresh replacement engine... I forgot that.

its just tight man.




rock it back and forth, get it into neutral, crank it, let the engine and oil warm up, kill it, and then try adjusting the cable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
Didn't replace the internals just the clutch perch.
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