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Old 10-11-2012, 08:12 PM   #69976
PPCLI-Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Here's a mod I think everyone should do to their DR's. It's a little hard to stabilize off road, but the benefits are obvious when you finally reach your destination.




Also, if you're working on your bike in the garage, it provides a much needed distraction.
thats awesome . I was actully checking out a pipe like that earlier this week
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:29 PM   #69977
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I like the look of that zip tie method a lot. Looks like it gets round the problem of getting the valve through the rim too. (that was a major PITA for me) I'm guessing that the valve goes in first which keeps the bead in the dish of the rim (Jeez, get me, I've done it once and I'm throwing all these technical terms round like a pro)
you are right,It is very easy to get the valve stem stem through the rim using zip ties (and put the locknut on it) , then remove the ties and inflate the tire...the tube needs to be inflated just enough to round it out before it is put in the tire and the zip ties are installed. I've only installed three tires this way but am completely sold on the method, no damage to the tube, the rim, or my fingers this way. The whole process goes very quickly with a little practice
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #69978
victor441
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Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Is there a thread with more details you could link me to? I want to be sure I understand how this works. I'm assuming you spoon on the tire complete and not one side at a time. Seems like a game changer?


Edit: I found this thread that describes using straps, sp the same concept. Still looking and learning!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597

that is indeed the one that enlightened me, I should have posted the link. FWIW 24" zip ties should be big enough for nearly any tire and they are easy to find, got mine at a big box hardware store
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:05 AM   #69979
TinMan207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post


Any pics of that "tire change" stand? or how it's made? Seems a world better than flopping around on the ground.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:04 AM   #69980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
thats awesome . I was actully checking out a pipe like that earlier this week
That poor old bastard hookah is currently held together with a combination of RTV gasket sealant and packing tape.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:07 AM   #69981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Wow. Just wow. This thread is awesome.

I am the proud new owner of a DR650. I can see my job performance is going to suffer due to this very thread. I just got a 2005 DR650 with only 800 miles on the clock. The guy I got it from only rode it 100 miles in the year he owned it!?! How that happened is beyond me because I just rode it 100 miles over the weekend. No adult should be able to have this much fun getting to work!

Question - since this bike is older, and has low miles, is there any particular maintenance I should do? I am assuming that I will need to do the oil, filters, etc. I do not know if the bike had the 600 mile valve adjustment tune up. It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms. I am sure I can find this info inside, but jeebus, there's a to sort through.

Any advice would be appreciated.
- Change oil as already suggested.
- Run a good dose of Techron fuel additive through it to clean out the pilot jet, etc.
- Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.
- Get some case guards ASAP (AMP or Procycle can supply them). One tip over can put the shifter through the case.


Edit: Also, as already touched on, the stock (cv) carb setup makes the bike a little touchy when RPMs are too low and can make the engine shutter, vibrate, and basically sound like a rod is letting go..
Don't panic just keep the RPMs a little higher.

Rumlover screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 07:23 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:45 AM   #69982
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Last night, I decided to have a go at cleaning out my carburetor. The bike had been down on fuel economy, and definitely down on power. I couldn't really shift into fifth gear until around 60 mph without it feeling bogged down and shaky. Just pulling the cap off showed years of dirt and grime that had accumulated. The BST bible thread was a damn near perfect guide to follow, though there were some minor differences. For instance, the pictures there showed some kind of white chicklet ring in the main needle spring, whereas mine was just a spring. I'm not 100% sure what it does, but I guess that I've been running without it for all this time so it couldn't hurt. I also noticed that my needle didn't have any notches for a clip to go into. I took the jets out and cleaned everything out with Simple Green and a hot water rinse. All the parts were dried out with a towel, some q-tips, and a box fan, and they looked shiny again. After getting everything put back together and on the bike, I took it out for a test drive around the neighborhood, there was an immediately noticeable difference. I dropped it into fifth gear at 45 and didn't get any of the bogging down feeling I'd previously had. So if you feel like your bike is down on power, it might just need a good cleaning.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:58 AM   #69983
buckrut1972
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New DR650 myself

Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

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Old 10-12-2012, 08:04 AM   #69984
thetable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

Because if it breaks off, and they have, it takes the frame with it.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:09 AM   #69985
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

The chain has been known to break the roller out of the frame, leaving a big hole in the frame. Although some argue it is ok to leave it on, I personally don't see the advantage.
There has been no problems ever reported (that I am aware of) from removing it. The general consensus is to just remove it and forget it.
Some with good fabricating skills have moved it to a different location.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:14 AM   #69986
sandwash
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They placed the roller too low on the frame,under the right conditions the chain will want to straighten out and will take the roller out along with part of the frame.Remove it and replace it with a locktite set screw.Then replace lower one with a bearing type,won't be as noisy as the stock one.This is where the upper roller used to be:
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #69987
FatChance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
No yellowing on the clear IMS after 3 years.
The 7 year old yellow IMS tank on my DR650 is still yellow...






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FatChance screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 09:52 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #69988
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
Any pics of that "tire change" stand? or how it's made? Seems a world better than flopping around on the ground.
sure, I posted some when I made it at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822721
and it was definitely worth the effort, it is much easier for me to change tires with the wheel clamped down and at waist level
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:15 AM   #69989
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
The 7 year old yellow IMS tank on my DR650 is still yellow...






It was white when you bought it. Right?
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #69990
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
For instance, the pictures there showed some kind of white chicklet ring in the main needle spring, whereas mine was just a spring. I'm not 100% sure what it does, but I guess that I've been running without it for all this time so it couldn't hurt.
The DR650 also uses a lower spring seat. Suzuki calls it a "ring" and its part number is 13331-12D00. Without it, the needle will rattle and the slide spring preload will be reduced.

Did you inspect the float needle, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide for wear?

With the needle having been allowed to rattle around like that, I would be most concerned about emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide needle hole wear.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?

Regards,

Derek

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