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Old 10-12-2012, 07:45 AM   #69991
neo1piv014
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Last night, I decided to have a go at cleaning out my carburetor. The bike had been down on fuel economy, and definitely down on power. I couldn't really shift into fifth gear until around 60 mph without it feeling bogged down and shaky. Just pulling the cap off showed years of dirt and grime that had accumulated. The BST bible thread was a damn near perfect guide to follow, though there were some minor differences. For instance, the pictures there showed some kind of white chicklet ring in the main needle spring, whereas mine was just a spring. I'm not 100% sure what it does, but I guess that I've been running without it for all this time so it couldn't hurt. I also noticed that my needle didn't have any notches for a clip to go into. I took the jets out and cleaned everything out with Simple Green and a hot water rinse. All the parts were dried out with a towel, some q-tips, and a box fan, and they looked shiny again. After getting everything put back together and on the bike, I took it out for a test drive around the neighborhood, there was an immediately noticeable difference. I dropped it into fifth gear at 45 and didn't get any of the bogging down feeling I'd previously had. So if you feel like your bike is down on power, it might just need a good cleaning.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:58 AM   #69992
buckrut1972
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Location: New Kent, Va
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New DR650 myself

Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

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Old 10-12-2012, 08:04 AM   #69993
thetable
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Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

Because if it breaks off, and they have, it takes the frame with it.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:09 AM   #69994
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.

May I ask why?

The chain has been known to break the roller out of the frame, leaving a big hole in the frame. Although some argue it is ok to leave it on, I personally don't see the advantage.
There has been no problems ever reported (that I am aware of) from removing it. The general consensus is to just remove it and forget it.
Some with good fabricating skills have moved it to a different location.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:14 AM   #69995
sandwash
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They placed the roller too low on the frame,under the right conditions the chain will want to straighten out and will take the roller out along with part of the frame.Remove it and replace it with a locktite set screw.Then replace lower one with a bearing type,won't be as noisy as the stock one.This is where the upper roller used to be:
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sandwash screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 08:31 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #69996
FatChance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
No yellowing on the clear IMS after 3 years.
The 7 year old yellow IMS tank on my DR650 is still yellow...






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FatChance screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 09:52 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #69997
victor441
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
Any pics of that "tire change" stand? or how it's made? Seems a world better than flopping around on the ground.
sure, I posted some when I made it at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822721
and it was definitely worth the effort, it is much easier for me to change tires with the wheel clamped down and at waist level
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:15 AM   #69998
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
The 7 year old yellow IMS tank on my DR650 is still yellow...






It was white when you bought it. Right?
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #69999
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
For instance, the pictures there showed some kind of white chicklet ring in the main needle spring, whereas mine was just a spring. I'm not 100% sure what it does, but I guess that I've been running without it for all this time so it couldn't hurt.
The DR650 also uses a lower spring seat. Suzuki calls it a "ring" and its part number is 13331-12D00. Without it, the needle will rattle and the slide spring preload will be reduced.

Did you inspect the float needle, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide for wear?

With the needle having been allowed to rattle around like that, I would be most concerned about emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide needle hole wear.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 11:55 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:35 AM   #70000
ER70S-2
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Stock '04 DR650.

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Old 10-12-2012, 12:13 PM   #70001
Rusty Rocket
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Was out playing Tag-O-Rama last Friday. Last pic of this bike in "street attire" Turned 20,000 miles that afternoon.



Now she goes back to knobbies a smaller mirror and a 14 tooth sprocket. The tankbag will stay for the first dirt ride for evaluation purposes. Any problems and it comes off
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:20 PM   #70002
neo1piv014
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The DR650 also uses a lower spring seat. Suzuki calls it a "ring" and its part number is 13331-12D00. Without it, the needle will rattle and the slide spring preload will be reduced.

Did you inspect the float needle, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide for wear?

With the needle having been allowed to rattle around like that, I would be most concerned about emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide needle hole wear.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?

Regards,

Derek
The bike has 10600 miles on it, but I don't know how many of those were without that ring. The PO said he pit a DJ kit in there so it might have happened then. I didn't see any kind of noticeable wear on my Carb parts that made me concerned. What exactly should I be looking for? I'll try to find that ring online somewhere.

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Old 10-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #70003
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The PO said he pit a DJ kit in there so it might have happened then.
If the jet needle does not have more than one clip groove, it's not a DJ needle. Is the white needle spacer installed under the clip? If so, is it round, without a notch or being d-shaped?
Quote:
I didn't see any kind of noticeable wear on my Carb parts that made me concerned. What exactly should I be looking for?
The rubber tip of the float needle should be inspected under magnification. It should perfectly conical, with no witness line evident where it was contacting the seat. If any evidence is visible, or if there is a gap between the bottom edge of the rubber tip and the aluminum portion of the needle, if the plunger is stuck, or if the plunger return spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced. Not doing so means that the float valve is leaking, or will begin leaking soon.

Emulsion tube wear generally sets in rapidly when the slide guide has worn .010" or more. The way to tell is to measure the depth of the depressions that are located in the bottom corners, concentric to the bore. If they are .010" deep or less, the slide guide should be replaced. '96 and up DR650 emulsion tubes are nickel plated, and so a bit more wear resistant than those found on previous models or KTMs. I don't know how thick the plating is, but if the nickel has worn away to expose the brass, it's definitely time to replace. Replace the slide if the lift hole area has been increased over stock, if there is vertical grooving on the downstream side, or if the needle hole is enlarged and/or ovaled.

See (scroll down for description and links. Click image for high-res view):

Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Slide, used
Slide, new

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:13 PM   #70004
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Well, it looks like I'm going to be pulling the carb apart again this evening to check this all out. The needle does have a white spacer on it, and I think it was pretty much perfectly round. At least, nothing stuck out in my memory of it. Is the "float needle" that large needle in the slide?
Actually,. I might be better off waiting until I get home to ask questions since I can't check out the pictures at work. Thanks for the info dump, though. It's much appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If the jet needle does not have more than one clip groove, it's not a DJ needle. Is the white needle spacer installed under the clip? If so, is it round, without a notch or being d-shaped?The rubber tip of the float needle should be inspected under magnification. It should perfectly conical, with no witness line evident where it was contacting the seat. If any evidence is visible, or if there is a gap between the bottom edge of the rubber tip and the aluminum portion of the needle, if the plunger is stuck, or if the plunger return spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced. Not doing so means that the float valve is leaking, or will begin leaking soon.

Emulsion tube wear generally sets in rapidly when the slide guide has worn .010" or more. The way to tell is to measure the depth of the depressions that are located in the bottom corners, concentric to the bore. If they are .010" deep or less, the slide guide should be replaced. '96 and up DR650 emulsion tubes are nickel plated, and so a bit more wear resistant than those found on previous models or KTMs. I don't know how thick the plating is, but if the nickel has worn away to expose the brass, it's definitely time to replace. Replace the slide if the lift hole area has been increased over stock, if there is vertical grooving on the downstream side, or if the needle hole is enlarged and/or ovaled.

See (scroll down for description and links. Click image for high-res view):

Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Slide, used
Slide, new

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:32 PM   #70005
JTB488
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The float needle is a small brass needle with a rubber cone shaped tip on the pivoting end of the float.
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