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Old 10-12-2012, 06:58 PM   #70006
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The BST Bible was what I went off of. That was where I noticed that my spring was missing a part. I just didn't see where to get at that float needle thing. After many frustrating experiences, I've learned better than to try forcing small, plastic parts around. Now that I know they come apart, however, I can check them out. I'm also looking at getting a TM40 for this bike before too long anyways, so this might all be a moot point, but it's always good to learn.
You'll have to learn how a carb works, one way or another.

Something like this from the BST-Bible:



Hides in here on our DRs.

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:22 PM   #70007
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
You'll have to learn how a carb works, one way or another.

Something like this from the BST-Bible:



Hides in here on our DRs.

Ohhh! Yeah, I saw that part. I guess I just need to pull it out and check it for wear. So I guess I must have put something back together a little incorrectly. I thought it was running well, but now it has a very rough idle if you're not on the choke and pops like crazy on decel. I'm going to order that clip for my spring, and I guess I need to fiddle with my fuel mixture screw. I thought I had measured two full turns, though I could just be a quarter turn or so off when I reset it. Do you back the screw out to richen the mixture a bit?
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:33 PM   #70008
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Do you back the screw out to richen the mixture a bit?
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #70009
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Tell you what, I'm going to devise quick release systems for the side panels, seat, and fuel tank. Even if I don't become a millionaire, I'm sure I'll save about 10,000 man hours per year.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:12 PM   #70010
doug s.
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The BST Bible was what I went off of. That was where I noticed that my spring was missing a part. I just didn't see where to get at that float needle thing. After many frustrating experiences, I've learned better than to try forcing small, plastic parts around. Now that I know they come apart, however, I can check them out. I'm also looking at getting a TM40 for this bike before too long anyways, so this might all be a moot point, but it's always good to learn.
definitely stop wasting your time - get a tm40 or fcr39. the bst40 is simply not worth learning about, imo...

ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #70011
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Tell you what, I'm going to devise quick release systems for the side panels, seat, and fuel tank. Even if I don't become a millionaire, I'm sure I'll save about 10,000 man hours per year.
Ain't that the truth!!
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:11 PM   #70012
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I've also learned a valuable lesson about why I need to get that god damned extended fuel screw. So I backed the fuel screw out about 1/2-1/4 of a turn. The bike fired up, with choke, but when I gave it throttle, the engine would sputter and die. Assuming that I had the mixture too rich, I screwed it in about 1/4 turn, put everything back in place, and fired it up again. It's about the same. The idle is still very "chuggy" and dies after about 10 seconds, and now, when I open the throttle any more than 1/3 or 1/2, the engine sputters and dies. I'm assuming that I'm running too rich, but I also know next to nothing about carburetors, so I might be a bad judge here. Does it sound like I'm running too rich?
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:40 PM   #70013
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I've also learned a valuable lesson about why I need to get that god damned extended fuel screw. So I backed the fuel screw out about 1/2-1/4 of a turn. The bike fired up, with choke, but when I gave it throttle, the engine would sputter and die. Assuming that I had the mixture too rich, I screwed it in about 1/4 turn, put everything back in place, and fired it up again. It's about the same. The idle is still very "chuggy" and dies after about 10 seconds, and now, when I open the throttle any more than 1/3 or 1/2, the engine sputters and dies. I'm assuming that I'm running too rich, but I also know next to nothing about carburetors, so I might be a bad judge here. Does it sound like I'm running too rich?
The pilot screw should only be used to tune the idle mixture. Anything that is not idle is the responsibility of other components. Correspondences on CV carbs:

Low rpm all throttle positions: float height, needle base diameter, emulsion tube outlet size
WOT operation overall: main jet
WOT operation between HP peak and red line: main air corrector
WOT operation below red line: jet needle shape
1/4 throttle opening: jet needle clip position
1/8 throttle opening: pilot jet size
1/16 throttle opening: pilot jet size
idle: mixture screw adjustment

Realistically, the float needle condition should be verified and the float height set before the idle mixture is adjusted.

Procedure:

Hold the carb in one hand and hold the base of the float cage tightly against the carb body with the index finger of the same hand. Rotate the carb so that the float tang just contacts the float needle's spring loaded plunger, but does not depress it. With the float height setting tool set to the desired height, use the other hand to drop it down over the float so the tool's posts contact the bowl gasket surface and the posts are square to the body (front to back - the tool takes care of side to side). Flip the tool to check both sides (as the float may have some twist in it). Bend the float tang until the tang on the float height setting tool just contacts the highest point on the float, but does not depress it.

Procedure for setting idle mixture:

Start the engine and warm it up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

Once you have the correct fuel screw setting, there should not be too many reasons to have to revisit very often. I'm therefore not a big proponent of extended fuel screws. If you intend to own carbureted motorcycles in the future, I recommend procuring an angle-drive screwdriver, which will be universally applicable.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:44 PM   #70014
ER70S-2
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Screw it in snug, back it out 1-1/2 turns, ride. Some time ago (39,000 miles or so), I was browsing the internet and I kept seeing 1-1/2 turns. Sounded good to me. I've since bought the extended fuel screw and messed with it. I'm still at 1-1/2 turns, give or take. At my altitude (6000 +), I'm satisfied; although I've heard that riding a TM-40 or FCR will ruin me forever (or until I convert).



Yesterday, my baby turned 40.



205'd by motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:49 PM   #70015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Tell you what, I'm going to devise quick release systems for the side panels, seat, and fuel tank. Even if I don't become a millionaire, I'm sure I'll save about 10,000 man hours per year.
Thumb screws...made all the difference
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #70016
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got my single track setup. 18" rear wheel with 90/90-18 and drive hub with off road gearing.

I have a street tire for the 17" rear with another drive hub and highway gearing.



I've also made a different dog bone plus the larger wheel gives me about an extra inch of ground clearance.



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Old 10-12-2012, 10:10 PM   #70017
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The pilot screw should only be used to tune the idle mixture. Anything that is not idle is the responsibility of other components. Correspondences on CV carbs:

Low rpm all throttle positions: float height, needle base diameter, emulsion tube outlet size
WOT operation overall: main jet
WOT operation between HP peak and red line: main air corrector
WOT operation below red line: jet needle shape
1/4 throttle opening: jet needle clip position
1/8 throttle opening: pilot jet size
1/16 throttle opening: pilot jet size
idle: mixture screw adjustment

Regards,

Derek
1/4 Throttle opening sounds about right for where it starts dying, and if I remember my names correctly, that's where the clip is missing from the spring. So if that clip isn't there, I'm guessing that's letting the jet needle move around incorrectly. If that was jacking with my fuel flow, then maybe that's causing it to die out? I don't get why this didn't happen before, and I'm damn near positive that I didn't see that clip when I pulled out the spring, but I've been checking around my work area just in case it fell out when I was pulling it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Screw it in snug, back it out 1-1/2 turns, ride. Some time ago (39,000 miles or so), I was browsing the internet and I kept seeing 1-1/2 turns. Sounded good to me. I've since bought the extended fuel screw and messed with it. I'm still at 1-1/2 turns, give or take. At my altitude (6000 +), I'm satisfied; although I've heard that riding a TM-40 or FCR will ruin me forever (or until I convert).



Yesterday, my baby turned 40.



205'd by motolab
I'll give 1 1/2 a try tomorrow when I'm ready to get dirty again. I'm right at the same altitude as you, so it's at least a starting point. I've been wanting to snag a TM-40 after the first review I read for one. Considering all the stupid stuff I spend money on, $450 really isn't all that much.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:10 PM   #70018
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
got my single track setup. 18" rear wheel with 90/90-18 and drive hub with off road gearing.

I have a street tire for the 17" rear with another drive hub and highway gearing.



I've also made a different dog bone plus the larger wheel gives me about an extra inch of ground clearance.



Woah. That's a crazy skinny rear tire. Does it still have enough traction with that narrower profile?
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:38 PM   #70019
TinkerinWstuff
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Woah. That's a crazy skinny rear tire. Does it still have enough traction with that narrower profile?
should be ass-loads of traction on the single track.

probably not so good on the paved canyon twisties, but that's what the 17" wheel is for. This is my single track only setup.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:25 AM   #70020
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Cool2 Fortunes to be made on fasteners.

I don't know how old many of you are but WAYYY back in the day, I recall my old YZ 125 A to date myself. You know BEFORE the days of one shock suspension . It had aircraft DZUS (sp?) quick connects to hold the side panels on. To refresh old dusty memories, it was like a bolt with a single slot with a quarter turn and and a notch. On the other side there was a heavy gauge wire that would hold it together . Its along the lines of an interrupted screw.

For the gas tank you can use more of these OR there is the alternative of having a stud welded in with a hole drilled in the top of it so you can pass a cotter pin /' a linchpin with an integral sprung retainer through it(connect these to the frame with a small wire so you dont lose them). Add a washer then pin the tank down the tank into location . That along with the seat being held down holding the tank in position should seem secure.I may not be smarter then the average bear but I am almost as old as dirt. Now who's gonna send me a royalty check.
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PPCLI-Jim screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 03:37 AM Reason: A mind like mine is always abuzz with ideas
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