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Old 10-13-2012, 10:13 AM   #70036
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Tell you what, I'm going to devise quick release systems for the side panels, seat, and fuel tank. Even if I don't become a millionaire, I'm sure I'll save about 10,000 man hours per year.
With some practice and a few tricks you should be able to remove panels, tank and seat in less than 3 minutes, easy.

I have an IMS tank ... so only two bolts for that. I use my electric drill with socket to whip out the two bolts, rubber bumpers are glued in place, so they don't fall, get lost or waste time.

Removing stock tank may take more time ... dunno, been years since I had a DR with stock tank on.

I only ever have ONE bolt holding my Corbin seat. No need for two. Side panels out in less than a minute.

Pulling fuel hose just takes a second ... have a plug ready to avoid drips.

I've also re-routed my crankcase vent hose to allow easier access to Carb.
More direct flow, no smog systems in line, less crap in the way.
So far, so good!
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:23 AM   #70037
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Screw it in snug, back it out 1-1/2 turns, ride. Some time ago (39,000 miles or so), I was browsing the internet and I kept seeing 1-1/2 turns. Sounded good to me. I've since bought the extended fuel screw and messed with it. I'm still at 1-1/2 turns, give or take. At my altitude (6000 +), I'm satisfied; although I've heard that riding a TM-40 or FCR will ruin me forever (or until I convert).



Yesterday, my baby turned 40.



205'd by motolab
One correction, I would NOT screw the fuel mixture screw in "Snug". It has a very sharp point on the tip which can be damaged from over tightening. Just screw in till it bottoms ... never force it, it will last a LOT longer this way and be more effective when fine tuning.

1.5 turns out works for me too at most altitudes. (I'm at sea level but ride frequently at altitude). When I'm up high I LEAN out the mix and go in a half turn or so on the Fuel mixture screw. Works a treat. At 12,000 PLUS ft. I got the DR idle to smooth out and starting recovered to normal ... and leaner settings save fuel!
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:35 AM   #70038
Adv Grifter
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Excellent as usual Derek!
But I do this just a bit different ...
For me, the extended fuel screw is invaluable if you ride at mixed altitudes. I ride the Sierra a lot and have ridden the high passes in CO a couple times, Mexican Sierra Tarahumaru and more.

The convenience of the extended screw has saved me every time. If your bike is jetted Super Lean, then perhaps the Fuel Screw may not need much fiddling. But at 12,000 ft. my DR was rough idling, running at too low RPM and was hard to start.

A quick tweak to the fuel screw fixed all that. I went in from around 1.5 turns out, IN (lean) to about 1 turn or less. Smoothed right out, idle came up, but I raised it manually another few RPM's faster to where it felt right.
All this done on the trail. Only a minute or so to correct it. Without the extended screw getting to that inset stock screw can be tricky.

At Sea Level I run my mixture quite lean ... and actually go IN past fast idle peak, until bike begins to idle just a bit rough. That's where I leave it.
In super hot weather, riding in traffic, I richen it a bit. (turn OUT) In my experience running it a bit on the lean side helps my Fuel economy as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post

Procedure for setting idle mixture:

Start the engine and warm it up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

Once you have the correct fuel screw setting, there should not be too many reasons to have to revisit very often. I'm therefore not a big proponent of extended fuel screws. If you intend to own carbureted motorcycles in the future, I recommend procuring an angle-drive screwdriver, which will be universally applicable.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #70039
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Excellent as usual Derek!
But I do this just a bit different ...
For me, the extended fuel screw is invaluable if you ride at mixed altitudes. I ride the Sierra a lot and have ridden the high passes in CO a couple times, Mexican Sierra Tarahumaru and more.

The convenience of the extended screw has saved me every time. If your bike is jetted Super Lean, then perhaps the Fuel Screw may not need much fiddling. But at 12,000 ft. my DR was rough idling, running at too low RPM and was hard to start.

A quick tweak to the fuel screw fixed all that. I went in from around 1.5 turns out, IN (lean) to about 1 turn or less. Smoothed right out, idle came up, but I raised it manually another few RPM's faster to where it felt right.
All this done on the trail. Only a minute or so to correct it. Without the extended screw getting to that inset stock screw can be tricky.

At Sea Level I run my mixture quite lean ... and actually go IN past fast idle peak, until bike begins to idle just a bit rough. That's where I leave it.
In super hot weather, riding in traffic, I richen it a bit. (turn OUT) In my experience running it a bit on the lean side helps my Fuel economy as well.
That makes a lot of sense! In the future I'll say that it shouldn't require much fiddling unless you will be riding in conditions where there are large changes in altitude.

I do have one more concern, and that is that the material an extended fuel screw is made of seems to be important. On other carbs I've seen galling and seizures when the extended fuel screw is made out of aluminum (that is a similar material as the body). I would therefore specifically look for one made out of stainless steel or brass, and I would put a dab of grease on the threads before installing.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 10:59 AM
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:09 PM   #70040
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
One correction, I would NOT screw the fuel mixture screw in "Snug". It has a very sharp point on the tip which can be damaged from over tightening. Just screw in till it bottoms ... never force it, it will last a LOT longer this way and be more effective when fine tuning.


I have a soft touch but now I can see an inmate going after the idle screw with an 18" pair of channel locks for their interpretation of 'snug'.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:32 PM   #70041
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Originally Posted by greer View Post
Westley's Bleache White (tire/whitewall cleaner from Walmart) worked very well on a white tank I had. I soaked paper towels in the Westley's and left them draped on the tank overnight. Soak them again the next morning if you need to.

Sarah
Thanks for the info Sarah I almost bought some of that Bleache White when I was in Walmart the other day, but after reading the label it made me a little nervous that it might damage or streak the tank, and damage the paint and other stuff on my bike if I wasn't super careful.
Maybe I ought to pull the tank off so I can really soak it good...
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:56 PM   #70042
rowie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
anyone ever noticed the grease seal on the inside of the speedo hub mount? suzuki doesnt list it as a separate part so i was wondering if anyone has found where you can buy one aftermarket. after 111 000km i think it only right by my girl that i replace for her.
I wanted to replace mine when I installed a new drive gear. It is an odd size and the only local bearing supplier was not able to find a replacement. So I filled it with grease and said she'll be right
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:52 PM   #70043
neo1piv014
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Well, I got the clip thing for the big spring in my carb, but it's still doing the "quarter to half throttle open then die" trick it started doing yesterday. So, I set the idle mixture screw to 1 1/2 turns out, and it wouldn't even start. I got it to turn over once, but that was it, so I backed it out to two full turns out, and it started right back up. Once again, it wouldn't let me open the throttle to any real degree (even with the clip correctly in place now), so I pulled the carb back off the bike to check it out as per Mr. Motolab. Here's to hoping it isn't anything major.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:04 PM   #70044
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While taking it apart, I did notice a few things that escaped me the first time I opened this up. The first is the main needle. It almost looks like it's bent or crooked.


Having never seen a different one, I'm not really sure if this is wrong or not, but there it is. I also noticed that the O-ring that sits on my float assembly - the larger of the two O-rings that goes underneath my float weight - is able to spin almost freely around in it's notch. Probably worn out. So it looks like I'm going to have a bit more of a shopping list for the procycle folks.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:07 PM   #70045
TinMan207
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Location: Southern Maine -- most days
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
sure, I posted some when I made it at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822721
and it was definitely worth the effort, it is much easier for me to change tires with the wheel clamped down and at waist level
Many thank for the link!

What are you using above the hub and below your "wing-nut"? Some kind of spacer? Large Socket?

Again, thanks. LOVE the idea!
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #70046
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
While taking it apart, I did notice a few things that escaped me the first time I opened this up. The first is the main needle. It almost looks like it's bent or crooked.


Having never seen a different one, I'm not really sure if this is wrong or not, but there it is. I also noticed that the O-ring that sits on my float assembly - the larger of the two O-rings that goes underneath my float weight - is able to spin almost freely around in it's notch. Probably worn out. So it looks like I'm going to have a bit more of a shopping list for the procycle folks.
That thing is definitely bent!
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:15 PM   #70047
neo1piv014
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Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
That thing is definitely bent!
What in the hell would have done that? There's only one place where the damn thing could go when putting it back together, and I've never had to force anything when working on this carb. Oh well. Looks like I'm in the market for a new needle in addition to O-Rings.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:24 PM   #70048
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I also noticed that the O-ring that sits on my float assembly - the larger of the two O-rings that goes underneath my float weight - is able to spin almost freely around in it's notch. Probably worn out.
I wouldn't worry about that too much. What I would worry about is if the float cage does not fit snugly in the carb body, i.e. it falls out by itself, and/or requires zero effort to install, or if the o-rings otherwise exhibit evidence of hardening, shrinking, deformation (i.e. no longer having a round cross-section) or cracking.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:25 PM   #70049
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
What in the hell would have done that? There's only one place where the damn thing could go when putting it back together, and I've never had to force anything when working on this carb. Oh well. Looks like I'm in the market for a new needle in addition to O-Rings.
Might I suggest an adjustable one?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #70050
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I wouldn't worry about that too much. What I would worry about is if the float cage does not fit snugly in the carb body, i.e. it falls out by itself, and/or requires zero effort to install, or if the o-rings otherwise exhibit evidence of hardening, shrinking, deformation (i.e. no longer having a round cross-section) or cracking.

Regards,

Derek
Ah. I had to use a little bit of effort to pull it out. It was definitely snug in there. So when I was putting the float assembly back into the carb, I was pretty strictly following the pictures from that BST bible post. When it was perfectly horizontal, the float was swinging out away from the carb body. When as I tilted it up to 60 degrees or so, the line on the float was running parallel with the edge of the carb body. Then, when I put the carb flat on the table, the float fell into the body like the pictures showed. I'm awful at explaining anything, but this is what I'm referring to:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
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