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Old 08-16-2012, 04:24 PM   #1
RFVC600R OP
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: SAND LAND
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Fried wiring 1982 KZ750

Hello all.

My riding partner called me over to help him work on his bike. It is a mint condition 1982 Kawasaki KZ750. Anyway, his battery died and he could't get it started with the kick starter. So he decided to jump it and he must've crossed polarity or something cuz he smelt burning plastic and disconnected it. before I did any thing I looked at the wiring and the black wire to the voltage regulator is fried. I'm hoping we can just change the wire and it be good. but If if changing VR is necessary it will be done. $22.95 on ebay.

What else could be damaged? We haven't tried to start the bike, I told him we'll ask someone who knows more than us n00bs before we do anything.
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

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Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:59 PM   #2
CycleDoc59
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Joined: May 2006
Location: East Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracus124 View Post
Hello all.

My riding partner called me over to help him work on his bike. It is a mint condition 1982 Kawasaki KZ750. Anyway, his battery died and he could't get it started with the kick starter. So he decided to jump it and he must've crossed polarity or something cuz he smelt burning plastic and disconnected it. before I did any thing I looked at the wiring and the black wire to the voltage regulator is fried. I'm hoping we can just change the wire and it be good. but If if changing VR is necessary it will be done. $22.95 on ebay.

What else could be damaged? We haven't tried to start the bike, I told him we'll ask someone who knows more than us n00bs before we do anything.
The black wire is the ground wire for the rectifier. It could be that the rectifier is now shorted,
such that when a new battery is connected it will short to ground. And of course the rectifier
could be toast. Look around the wiring adjacent to the shorted/burned wire to be sure other wiring is ok
Then insure that the new battery does not short when connected. Assuming the bike starts,
check voltage at the battery to be sure it is being charged...... If there is no charging, don't assume
the rectifier is bad, as it could be the stator, or both.....
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:40 PM   #3
RFVC600R OP
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None of the other wiring is damaged. The battery was dead cuz he left the ignition on and the battery ran down. We're going to fix the wiring tomorrow and have some fun with a voltage meter.

It's a shame, its a really nice, cool old bike.
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:20 PM   #4
Beezer
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yep, Regulator is prolly shot, maybe the stator too.

to check stator - there are 3 wires from the stator to the R/R, usually yellow. pull the connector off the regulator/rectifier. you can test each yellow wire to ground with an ohm meter, there should be no continuity (reads infinite resistance). each pair (yellow to yellow) will read low resistance... very low... most meters are not accurate enough to get a good reading. you are looking to see continuity & low ohms, usually less than one ohm. if you get something else it's a bad stator. but thats not the only things that go wrong... then test each pair one of 2 ways. connect volt meter to each pair, set to AC volts, run the engine, voltage should rise with RPM, may go as high as 40 or 50 VAC. a better test is to connect a light bulb and watch it get bright, but not too bright or it will blow (easy on the throttle, no regulator).

for the regulator.. set the meter to read diodes (very important)-- touch the plus lead to the pins that have the stator wire connections (one at a time), and put the negative meter lead on the wire that takes the plus output from the R/R to the battery... the meter should read continuity (a diode number) something like 450 ohms or if your meter reads a bias voltage then consult your instructions, but 700 mV is about right. it should not read zero or infinite.... that would be bad. reverse the leads and you should get infinites. then put the plus lead on the R/R terminal that had the ground wire, and touch the meter minus lead on each or the 3 stator pins, should read a diode number. reverse the leads, should read infinite. if it passes it might still have a problem when under the stress of system voltage so.....

another quick test I like to do is with a clamp on amp meter. clamp over the batter lead, set the probe & meter to read AC amps, run the engine with all the steady loads on (not turn signals). any reading over 1 is bad. a bad stator or a bad diode in the R/R will cause pulsing DC that the meter will read as AC.

even if it tests OK, it may not last long... good luck
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:41 PM   #5
RFVC600R OP
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I know its been awhile but heres an update.

We fixed the wiring and put a new battery on it. The bike doesn't do anything and the voltage regulator/rectifier got really hot. Is is staying grounded like someone said earlier? So its bad and need a new one right?
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:23 PM   #6
RFVC600R OP
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We took it to the shop and got an estimate for $200. And we left it there for about 3 months. During that time my friend fot 3 phone calls, one said it was the regulator, then they called a week later and a different guy said it was the stator, not the regulator, lets send it off to ricky and get it repaired. I went searching on ebay and found a used stator for $35~ 7k miles off a running bike that was parted out. he even had a pic of it hooked up to the tester. I took it the shop my self and they said it would work. then they called my friend again and said "come get your bike, we don't know whats wrong with we can't fix it.."

Damn I'm just gonna go buy some volt meters and do it my damn self. they already put the stator in for free
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:43 PM   #7
RFVC600R OP
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Well at first they acted like it was a piece of cake. and then they cant fix it

I'll post up pics of the bike later, it's a real beauty
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:46 AM   #8
rwguzman
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Pissed Rectifier wire burning kz750

Did you ever fix this?

I have a similar problem and can't figure it out. I recently bought an '82 kz750. I bought it pretty cheap. The guy said their was an electrical issue but didnt have the knowledge to do anything with it. I'm starting to think I'm in the same boat. Really need some help.
First thing I did was charge the battery so I could use a voltmeter on it and find the issue. As soon as I hooked the battery back up the RED/WHITE wire from the rectifier/regulator to the starter solenoid started burning. By the time I could disconnect the battery it had melted all of the plastic off the wire directly next to the solenoid.

The battery reads 12v consistently.

Any help is appreciated
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:29 AM   #9
rwguzman
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Also I bought a new rectifier. didn't help...
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:07 PM   #10
aduthie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwguzman View Post
As soon as I hooked the battery back up the RED/WHITE wire from the rectifier/regulator to the starter solenoid started burning. By the time I could disconnect the battery it had melted all of the plastic off the wire directly next to the solenoid.
Sounds like this is the relevant wiring diagram:
http://kz.bike-night.com/media/KZ750-E2.jpg

If connecting the battery heated the R/W wire to the regulator/rectifier, then you have (or had) a short to ground somewhere on the other end of the wire.

One way for this to happen is for diodes inside the rectifier portion to be burned out such that they permit current to flow in two directions. Usually this results in a slow current "leak," usually noticed when the ignition switch is off. It's possible yours failed in such a way that it's a no-resistance short.

You say you bought a new regulator/rectifier and it didn't help. Are you saying that when you connected the new one, then connected the battery again, that the same R/W wire heated up and melted its insulation?

If you didn't replace that section of wire the first time, that could be trouble. If you didn't at least cover it with insulation (e.g. electrical tape), that could be new trouble. The best thing to do would be to replace the entire wire from the starter solenoid terminal to the regulator/rectifier.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:19 AM   #11
RFVC600R OP
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We replaced the whole wiring harness, stator/rectifier, and stator.

All is good.
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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