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Old 10-13-2012, 04:28 PM   #70051
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Might I suggest an adjustable one?

Regards,

Derek
You definitely may. Any preferred source that I should snag it from?
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:44 PM   #70052
Paddle007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
One correction, I would NOT screw the fuel mixture screw in "Snug". It has a very sharp point on the tip which can be damaged from over tightening. Just screw in till it bottoms ... never force it, it will last a LOT longer this way and be more effective when fine tuning.

1.5 turns out works for me too at most altitudes. (I'm at sea level but ride frequently at altitude). When I'm up high I LEAN out the mix and go in a half turn or so on the Fuel mixture screw. Works a treat. At 12,000 PLUS ft. I got the DR idle to smooth out and starting recovered to normal ... and leaner settings save fuel!
I'll back you up on that. I had a friends DR with the TM40 carb that was kicking my behind with running problems. One of the problems was no adapter ring and the second was the tip of the mixture screw was broken and stuck in the bottom of the hole. No air could pass through and it created some strange running problems.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:03 PM   #70053
neo1piv014
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So with everything put back together again, jacked up needle and all, I got it back on the bike, and she fired up like nothing had ever happened. I let it warm up, verified that it idled without the choke after a minute or two, and took her for a ride. Knowing I have a messed up needle may be inducing some bias in the testing, but the fueling feels a little odd now. Nothing I can really put my finger on, but that's getting replaced, so we'll see. I've also noticed that it pops a good bit on deceleration/engine braking. It's not terribly annoying, and I might just be noticing it now because I usually ride with earbuds in place. Should I just hold judgement on this thing until I get the needle replaced? Thanks to everyone for chiming in on yet another of my little projects.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:10 PM   #70054
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
You definitely may. Any preferred source that I should snag it from?
Well, http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:12 PM   #70055
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you intend to own carbureted motorcycles in the future, I recommend procuring an angle-drive screwdriver, which will be universally applicable.

Regards,

Derek
What angle-drive screwdriver are you using? A quick glance around the hardware stores in my area showed a few right angle screwdrivers, but they were all quite stubby. If there's a nice, thin one, I'd get that in a heartbeat.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:45 PM   #70056
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Typically, as the contact patch decreases the contact pressure increases. As you lose floatation you often increase bite, or traction due to the smaller contact patch. I have more experience in offroad truck tires, but if you want to increase traction, you often need a narrower tire. There are trade offs and conditions can dictate what works in a given situation, but riding desert sand might favor a wider tire, where you need more floatation, and forest single track might favor a narrower tire, where the narrower tire has more traction.
What is interesting about this is that, all other things being equal, which of course they almost never are, if the only change is the tyre width, keeping the same type and construction of tyre, and the same air pressure, as the tyre gets narrower, the pressure at the patch increases, which flattens the contact patch. The net result is that the surface area of the contact patch is more or less the same, but its shape gets progressively narrower and longer. Arguably more relevant when talking about 4 wheeler tyres which of course have a nominally flat tread.

A wider leading edge to the contact patch creates more flotation on soft surfaces. In fact sand is like going up a hill all the time. The tyre sinks in and is always climbing up the front edge. Make it narrower, and its a steeper/deeper face to climb out.

A longer contact patch can add stabilty compared to a wider one. Its why we prefer 21" fronts to smaller ones with wider tyres on our dirt bikes. The contact patch isn't much different in size, but the shape is longer, hence more directional stability.

Make sense?
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:53 PM   #70057
Tex76
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Hey guys, anyone know where I can get a black rear fender? I've been changing plastics and I've ordered the rear black twice and both times they email me a couple days later canceling the order because its not available. What gives?


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Old 10-13-2012, 05:55 PM   #70058
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Procycle?
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:19 PM   #70059
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, anyone know where I can get a black rear fender? I've been changing plastics and I've ordered the rear black twice and both times they email me a couple days later canceling the order because its not available. What gives?


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What he said: Procycle. They do full plastic kits and regularly keep black in stock
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:22 PM   #70060
Tex76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
What he said: Procycle. They do full plastic kits and regularly keep black in stock
Thanks ill have to call them. I've seen their full plastics kit but I don't need all that, or want to spend that much lol.


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Old 10-13-2012, 06:53 PM   #70061
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
What angle-drive screwdriver are you using? A quick glance around the hardware stores in my area showed a few right angle screwdrivers, but they were all quite stubby. If there's a nice, thin one, I'd get that in a heartbeat.
I use a Kawasaki 57001-1239, which fits in very tight spaces because it has a cable inside a 90 degree bent tube. If you want a cable drive that's more readily available (and really inexpensive) there's the K&L 35-1968, but it's bent just a bit less than at a right angle. Then there is the Motion Pro 08-0229, which is gear driven and therefore not as compact, but has the benefit of using bits, so you can put a variety of different tips on it.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:42 PM   #70062
SingleTrackJeff
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Jet Kits

I found this Sigma jet kit on eBay. Haven never heard of them but I haven't looked a lot lately.


Has anyone tried it and does it work any better than the Dino jet, I never could get the Dino jet to work with out stumbling off closed throttle. Every one tells me the Dino jet needle is the prob but that is over my head.

Any other suggestions on a jet kit to try that works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-11-Suzu...8de276&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:17 PM   #70063
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
...
Make sense?
It does to me, but you seemed to use more words
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:23 PM   #70064
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
It does to me, but you seemed to use more words
Yeah, but the point I was trying to make is that the contact patch doesn't necessarily increase in size with a wider tyre, just its shape changes.

Fewer words
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:04 PM   #70065
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I found this Sigma jet kit on eBay. Haven never heard of them but I haven't looked a lot lately.

Has anyone tried it and does it work any better than the Dino jet, I never could get the Dino jet to work with out stumbling off closed throttle. Every one tells me the Dino jet needle is the prob but that is over my head.


Any other suggestions on a jet kit to try that works.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-11-Suzu...8de276&vxp=mtr
Cheap Chinese jets with questionable size markings on them. No needle, just some washers to shim it up. Not much of a value for $50.

The stumbling just off closed throttle can be blamed on the DynoJet recommendation of running the mixture screw at 2-1/2 turns out. That will be way to rich and cause a rich bog just off idle. Most riders have had good results by setting the idle mixture right on the lean edge of the smooth idle range - usually around 1-1/4 turns out.
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