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Old 08-13-2012, 08:58 AM   #31
LonerDave
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Location: Lisbon, WI
Oddometer: 118
Hey gP,

I ended up using the Magura MC with the dual-cable throttle housing that belongs on the later /6s.

The problem was the "nose" through which the throttle cables exit was interfering with the MC.

Rotating the throttle housing backwards (CCW) and keeping the cables aft of the MC put the blinker switches too far down and out of reach for my thumb. Plus the lever was too high.

Rotating the throttle house forward and putting the cables to the fore of the MC was OK in terms of the blinker switches, but the lever was too low and the shape of the throttle housing forced the MC to be mounted too far inboard (the place where the lever pivots was hitting the throttle housing). So I ground off (what I think ) are non-critical pieces of the lever pivot area and throttle housing to make them fit as close together as possible. Placement isn't perfect, bit I can live with it.

Brakes work fine. Lever is chrome instead of black and a bit shorter than the clutch cable on the other side. Not stock, but I saved the original pieces if I ever want to go back.

Will try to remember to send pix tonight.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:18 PM   #32
Brun
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Location: BorderBurg, South East Oz.
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I've got brakes!

Big Thanks to Johnny Cash for the inspiration to do this. I went with the Magura Series 225 13mm MC. Cost $87 from Amazon. A local bloke made up the hose for $70. Here's the result (please excuse dangling wires - I'm at the tail end of a refurb)



Only problem I had was finding sufficient room on the euro bars. My solution was to lathe up some bar extensions - friction fit into the bar ID and glued in with green Loctite. These were drilled and tapped for bar end mirrors. I like having the extra leverage on the bars, and the bonus is that there is less elbow visible in the mirrors.



Improvement in feel and braking performance is startling. Two finger braking does better than the previous 'grab a handful and pray' action.

I love this brake. Please accept more thanks, JC.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:44 AM   #33
JonnyCash OP
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^Hey thanks for thanking me. I'm glad that I've been able to help someone else on here. For the most part on here, I feel like I've taken a lot and contributed little. I like your bar end extensions, and may try that myself on the Guzzi I'm working on. It's got some really nice clip on bars, which unfortunately are about an inch too short to get my controls onto.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:12 AM   #34
nilsey
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Just hooked up th M/C - braje light switch?

Hey everyone --

Thanks for this thread - i just hooked up the brake m/c and bled the system. I would love to try it out but since its raining i may as well take a shot at hooking up the front brake switch.

Unfortunately the bike came to me without a front brake switch to begin with, so i have no idea where to connect it in the electrical system to work.

Can anyone help me out and find the place to wire in teh front brake switch?

this is for a 1974 R90/6.

edit: ok i think i found a wiring diagram that indicates the connectors are in the headlight bucket:

http://www.checkas.com/wp-content/up...1339227002.jpg

so now my question is, how to i get inside the headlight bucket? does the whole thing need to be removed at the ears?

nilsey screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 09:18 AM
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:30 AM   #35
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No, just split the headlamp bezel from the bucket. Not sure how it comes apart on a /6, but on the /5 it is just held in by spring tabs, which are usually enough to keep it from falling out.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:26 AM   #36
nilsey
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got it thx

Yeah, figured it all out.

Everything is working great, although its been raining here so haven't taken it to teh highway. Braking is very much improved, easily locking the front wheel at street speed.


r90mc by nilsey, on Flickr
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:59 AM   #37
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post

I see the spacer! Sweet set-up!! I have clip-ons now, but might end up hating them. Thinking ahead to the handlebar that might work for me. I tried an RS bar but it bangs into the gas tank at full lock (actually the controls hit before the steering stops hit). Nice work, Cash.
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:31 PM   #38
craydds
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'74 r90/6

Hey JonnyCash and fellow inmates, thanks for all the great info on this thread. Me and my 16 yr. old son have made some good progress on his grandfather's (my dad's) old R90/6. Got it running last Friday and rode it around the block! My son put a video on his facebook. Have not made many pics but believe me when I say it is in ROUGH condition. Been sitting in the dirt in a barn for 30 years! Will do the handlebar MC soon. Will be asking lots of questions.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #39
craydds
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It seems this thread should be moved to airheads. ???
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:22 PM   #40
JonnyCash OP
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^Doesn't matter to me, I look at both! Good for you and your son on the R90/6!
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:21 PM   #41
boxerboy81
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Has anyone ever changed the master cylinder and the throttle set up on an R series from the combined master cylinder/throttle assembly to a Japanese set up? Any pit falls apart from handlebar size and different cables? [R45 79 vintage but runs 750cc pistons with shortened R80 barrels.]
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:26 AM   #42
boxerboy81
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It seems this thread should be moved to airheads. ???
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:26 AM   #43
JonnyCash OP
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When I started this thread, there was no separate airheads page. I neither know how to, nor care to move it.
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:19 PM   #44
knary
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Where I've ended:

As mentioned, I just couldn't swallow the price of used parts in need of more money to make work and certainly couldn't swallow the price of new BMW parts.

I settled on the magura master and lever. To get it to work, I removed the stock lever perch and rotated the switchgear and throttle. Is it pretty? No. It's kludgy but it works. I picked up an 18" brake line and a fitting at a local hydraulic shop and -drumroll- for less than $120 in total I have working brakes.

Downsides: It's not going to be confused for a clean stock setup. the brake lever is chrome and doesn't reach as far down the bar though it's easily within reach for me and my average hands (FWIW, size 9 or so). I can't use the stock mirror mount. Reaching the switches might be fiddly to some, but hasn't been an issue to me.

Upsides: it works. It's affordable. I wanted bar end mirrors anyway.

(ignore the mess. I do)




I'll either grind off the stock mirror mount or find some creative use for it.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:17 PM   #45
bmwrench
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
Has anyone ever changed the master cylinder and the throttle set up on an R series from the combined master cylinder/throttle assembly to a Japanese set up? Any pit falls apart from handlebar size and different cables? [R45 79 vintage but runs 750cc pistons with shortened R80 barrels.]
Magura makes a nice conventional throttle with cables pointing downward. You may have to customize the cables.
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