Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Myfuture_yourdebt]

I bought a KLR650 as my first bike back in 2008 and have put 28,000 miles on it since. When riding to ride the KLR (not commute, etc.), I ride minimal pavement but also minimal single-track super gnar, of course. I picked up a plated WR450f about 2 years ago and have learned to also love true dirt bike riding.

In all this, I've realized I actually prefer higher speed dual sport riding (jeep trails and flowing dirt bike/ATV trails) over relatively slower speed technical trail riding. I don't have issues with the technical aspects of trail riding but I think the distance and speed aspects are what make the difference for me. Don't get me wrong, I still hit some ATV trails on my KLR and certainly spend at least 75% of my WR riding time on true OHV trails as well. My preferences simply lie in dual sporting, not riding a plated dirt bike. But of course, I do enjoy a light, nimble-handling steed.

So if I wanted a bulletproof ultra-low maintenance dual sport that was a compromise between my KLR650 and my WR450, would looking towards the WR250R suit my riding preferences above? I'm mainly looking to use a WR250R as a dual sport and trail riding rig, relegating the KLR650 to commuting and ADV-touring duty, and then selling my WR450. Only the bad me needs that 450 performance

[theMISSIONARY]

Originally Posted by lukeinlondon

Hi. Great thread!

I am going to be in the market to buying a dirt bike strictly dirt and am seeing the higher popularity between them Suzuki dr350 and your Yamaha wr250 can anyone point to me to the black and white comparison of the two? (incl price points). Thanks

well IMHO the DR350e is very old tech type of bike

chugs well not a very revy engine

simple

horrid gearbox

only just enough electrical power to run things

carrys ADV gear well

handling it IMO.....just disgusting frame flex suspension steering seating position etc etc is just all wrong

bottom line its a good bike for hard slow riding.

WR250r the ONLY thing it doesn't do better is have the same amount of bottom end power IMHO everything else is better

[tmotten]

Originally Posted by Joe Watson

These are the clutch and brake levers I am using. They are rather cheap but nice and short. The only problem I have with them is they don't have adjustment in the brake lever to get rid of the bit of play before the brake engages, other than than, very happy with them for the last 4000km or so.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAZOMA-CN...item4ab794a43c

I went with them as we'll. was a bit dubious at first when you compare the price of brand folding levers but they're pretty nicely made actually. I ground of some material of the brake bit to get some more free play.

[noahdr]

Can someone help here...
I bought my WR 6months ago or so and it came with a yamalink installed. The more I ride the more I realize I want the bike back to where it was at stock height. I understand how to re-install the stock link, but how much do I raise the jam nut etc to achieve the stock height from factory? Also, it appears the forks have been raised in the clamps on the front. How much do I move the front forks to get the factory setting...or do I just move them as far I can before I hit the caps?

Thanks in advance!

[KansasBob]

Originally Posted by noahdr

Can someone help here...
I bought my WR 6months ago or so and it came with a yamalink installed. The more I ride the more I realize I want the bike back to where it was at stock height. I understand how to re-install the stock link, but how much do I raise the jam nut etc to achieve the stock height from factory? Also, it appears the forks have been raised in the clamps on the front. How much do I move the front forks to get the factory setting...or do I just move them as far I can before I hit the caps?

Thanks in advance!

You talked about the yamalink and the factory adjustment in the same sentence, but get that you know the difference.
If I remember the factory adjustment is only about a half an inch or less (at the shock). That measurement is amplified by the ratio of the linkage so it raises or lowers the bike by much more than a half an inch. Once you remove the Yamalink and install the standard link see if you like the seat height. If you want it taller........... start adjusting the shock out longer until you like it.......... just leave plenty of threads in the yoke,

As far as the forks go I remember the "caps" just sticking up above the top clamp, and that was all.

If you want to sell your yamalink, send me a PM.

[indypup]

[YZEtc]

Originally Posted by jgormley

I am swapping out a Q4 muffler and header with the stock muffler and header that came with the bike...
2010 wr 250r

and I have a collar that looks like its supposed to go on the junction between the two.
But it doesn't seem to fit.
Does this need to be there?
The header and muffler seem to go together just fine without it.

That item is used only if the Q4 muffler is to be connected to the stock header pipe.

[PYG RYDR]

indypup

Very cool video! Love the music! Kudos on just tractoring by the other riders!

[Nice_Rumble]

Originally Posted by noahdr

Can someone help here...
I bought my WR 6months ago or so and it came with a yamalink installed. The more I ride the more I realize I want the bike back to where it was at stock height. I understand how to re-install the stock link, but how much do I raise the jam nut etc to achieve the stock height from factory? Also, it appears the forks have been raised in the clamps on the front. How much do I move the front forks to get the factory setting...or do I just move them as far I can before I hit the caps?

Thanks in advance!

Look through here: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...Lowered-WR250R
This might help you get it back to the OEM settings.

[noahdr]

Originally Posted by KansasBob

You talked about the yamalink and the factory adjustment in the same sentence, but get that you know the difference.
If I remember the factory adjustment is only about a half an inch or less (at the shock). That measurement is amplified by the ratio of the linkage so it raises or lowers the bike by much more than a half an inch. Once you remove the Yamalink and install the standard link see if you like the seat height. If you want it taller........... start adjusting the shock out longer until you like it.......... just leave plenty of threads in the yoke,

As far as the forks go I remember the "caps" just sticking up above the top clamp, and that was all.

If you want to sell your yamalink, send me a PM.

Thanks for the info.. Yea I'll probably take your advice and just leave my shock as is and just raise as needed once the link is changed. I'll probably just move the clamps as high as they go on the forks.
Thanks again and I'll let you know if I decide to let go of the link

[noahdr]

Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble

Look through here: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...Lowered-WR250R
This might help you get it back to the OEM settings.

Thank you for the link. I plan to copy that to a tee haha.

[indypup]

Originally Posted by PYG RYDR

indypup

Very cool video! Love the music! Kudos on just tractoring by the other riders!

Thanks, one of the few times that I was the doing the passing.

[Dirtnadvil]

Keep passing those KTMs

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by Myfuture_yourdebt

I bought a KLR650 as my first bike back in 2008 and have put 28,000 miles on it since. When riding to ride the KLR (not commute, etc.), I ride minimal pavement but also minimal single-track super gnar, of course. I picked up a plated WR450f about 2 years ago and have learned to also love true dirt bike riding.

In all this, I've realized I actually prefer higher speed dual sport riding (jeep trails and flowing dirt bike/ATV trails) over relatively slower speed technical trail riding. I don't have issues with the technical aspects of trail riding but I think the distance and speed aspects are what make the difference for me. Don't get me wrong, I still hit some ATV trails on my KLR and certainly spend at least 75% of my WR riding time on true OHV trails as well. My preferences simply lie in dual sporting, not riding a plated dirt bike. But of course, I do enjoy a light, nimble-handling steed.

So if I wanted a bulletproof ultra-low maintenance dual sport that was a compromise between my KLR650 and my WR450, would looking towards the WR250R suit my riding preferences above? I'm mainly looking to use a WR250R as a dual sport and trail riding rig, relegating the KLR650 to commuting and ADV-touring duty, and then selling my WR450. Only the bad me needs that 450 performance

I've owned a KLR among many other DS bikes and honestly the KLR was not very high on my list. Its a work horse and reliable, but IMOP just too big and heavy to really have fun off road. Its certainly possible, but not always easy. When it really got to me is when I really started trying to push it off road, it just became a handful fast. Its much happier putting along and carrying you in no particular rush.

I've probably been in a similar boat as your WR450 when I had a tagged KTM 520. Fun on the technical trails and stuff, but when it ever it came to a long road jaunt, it pretty much sucked. I still very much enjoyed the bike, but it just didn't fit my needs any more. If I got rid of my actual dirt bike (GasGas 300) I could see me getting another one in that type of range to cover that side of things.

I most recently had a Husky TE-610 near the beginning of this year that I put 4k miles on in 3 months and loved that bike. It really was a wonderfully setup dual sport and so much fun, but it didn't meet that bulletproof and low maintenance one very well. Among other things of riding with my wife on her XT225, I decided to sell it and try the WR250R instead.

I can tell you coming from a Husky TE-610 to a WR250R, especially at 6'4"/240lbs was quite the change, but I am overall thrilled with my choice. So far I'm loving the WRR and on the dual sport stuff, its a great bike. Amazingly, its actually quite comfy on the road too. The motor is so smooth and the FI on the bike is really nice. The bike is so light, it is a breeze to throw around. It is a revvy little motor and not much torque down low so I had to change my riding style a bit to keep the motor revved up, but once I got comfy with that, I became really quick on the little bike. My buddy still has a TE-610 and I enjoy chasing him on the WRR.

[DaymienRules]

Has anyone tried a 7.5wt fork oil? My clickers are maxed, and its time to replace the oil.