'86 Interceptor 750?

danielcut · 10-15-2012, 12:50 PM

I have the option to pick up an '86 Honda Interceptor 750. I'm still working on an '80 CB750 and wasn't really looking for another project but the price is pretty unbeatable. I'm basically looking for opinions on the bike. I don't know a ton about them. I've been scouring the net but there seems to be pretty limited info on them. Apparently they were fairly rare in the states in the 750 orientation. It's in fairly rough shape but I'm told it runs.

sanjoh · 10-16-2012, 06:32 AM

vfrworld.com

awesome motor, nothing sounds like gear driven cams

Moto da Vinci · 10-16-2012, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielcut

I have the option to pick up an '86 Honda Interceptor 750. I'm still working on an '80 CB750 and wasn't really looking for another project but the price is pretty unbeatable. I'm basically looking for opinions on the bike. I don't know a ton about them. I've been scouring the net but there seems to be pretty limited info on them. Apparently they were fairly rare in the states in the 750 orientation. It's in fairly rough shape but I'm told it runs.

Bought one brand new in 86....loved it. I had it for 4-5 years and put on 25,000 miles. Loved it so much, I bought another VFR in 2002. Great motor.

danielcut · 10-16-2012, 12:49 PM

I picked it up this morning. It's pretty beat up but I only paid $100 for it and it had a title so I'm satisfied. It'll be a slow work in progress but hopefully I can make something decent out of it.

Side note: Does anyone know why people feel they have to do that with a rattle can? I bought a '94 CBR600 with the same thing done to it. How hard is it to just mask something off?

dentvet · 10-16-2012, 06:00 PM

$100 well spent. Are you sure its a 750? I think the 750 had gold calipers or something. The 700 was more common, i had a couple, first a RWB 700 then a pearl white 700. Nice steady wail as they climb in the RPMs. I bought the first one wrecked and the guy selling it swore that you could balance a nickel on its edge on the engine case as you revved it to the moon. Maybe an official honda promo/propaganda? Funny the things you remember sometimes. I still have the matching Freddie Spencer Aria helmet, thinks its still any good?

danielcut · 10-16-2012, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dentvet

$100 well spent. Are you sure its a 750? I think the 750 had gold calipers or something. The 700 was more common, i had a couple, first a RWB 700 then a pearl white 700. Nice steady wail as they climb in the RPMs. I bought the first one wrecked and the guy selling it swore that you could balance a nickel on its edge on the engine case as you revved it to the moon. Maybe an official honda promo/propaganda? Funny the things you remember sometimes. I still have the matching Freddie Spencer Aria helmet, thinks its still any good?

I'd heard the 700s were more common. Tariff busters. Not 100% sure on it being a 750, just what I was told by the guy I bought it from. I'm curious now, I'll have to check it out tomorrow and see what I can find out. Is there any real difference in the models other than engine size?

TUCKERS · 10-16-2012, 07:50 PM

IIRC there was an issue with valve guides leaking and the motors smoking a lot, I guess you'll find out when you start it!

motomike14 · 10-17-2012, 12:16 PM

http://jalopnik.com/5952274/how-to-g...eville-for-300

danielcut · 10-18-2012, 10:13 AM

Confirmed on the VIN plate that it is in fact a 750. I've put off starting work on it for now because we will be moving soon and I'd rather move the full bike than a frame and boxes of parts. That and I'm not even sure where to start...

H96669 · 10-19-2012, 11:00 AM

You can start just by looking at how hard it is to remove the carbs for a cleaning. I know had a Sabre....same design. My friend just picked up one of them Sabres.....I looked again just for old times sake.

His runs but not that well. Will be sitting for a few days with carbs full of Seafoam just in case that works and we don't have to remove them.

If you are crafty and like working in tight places with bent tools, you may be able to do as we did. Remove one of the bottom carb covers and inspect,left rear was the easier one. Then assess the amount of crap that may be in there. That one wasn't too bad....no grits so we are trying the Seafoam, just in case that works. I hope we get the "Miracle in that can". Phew....will know next Tuesday.

pjm204 · 10-19-2012, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H96669

You can start just by looking at how hard it is to remove the carbs for a cleaning. I know had a Sabre....same design. My friend just picked up one of them Sabres.....I looked again just for old times sake.

His runs but not that well. Will be sitting for a few days with carbs full of Seafoam just in case that works and we don't have to remove them.

If you are crafty and like working in tight places with bent tools, you may be able to do as we did. Remove one of the bottom carb covers and inspect,left rear was the easier one. Then assess the amount of crap that may be in there. That one wasn't too bad....no grits so we are trying the Seafoam, just in case that works. I hope we get the "Miracle in that can". Phew....will know next Tuesday.

I also had a sabre, wow did those carbs suck to work on. Avoid removing them at all costs!

markjenn · 10-19-2012, 12:01 PM

I've worked on a lot of V4 Hondas and if the bike is in as rough a shape as it looks, your chances of getting the carbs to work acceptably without removing them is essentially zero. They're difficult to remove and more difficult to put back on but you probably need to bite the bullet and do the deed.

The keys to getting them back on without too much cussing:

+ get the rubber boots as pliable as you possibly can by soaking in very hot water and/or use new ones
+ leave the hose clamps off all-together if you have to - even loosened, then can add stiffness to the boots that make it more difficult to seat the carbs; its tough to fish them in after the carbs are seated, but it can be done
+ don't be afraid to use considerable force

As I recall, it works best to first seat the front boots, then the back.

This is a very cool bike, but make an overall assessment of what is likely to need replacement to make it acceptable to you before you sink too much money into it. If too far gone, it is uneconomical to bring a bike like this back and it is better to punt and disassemble/sell for parts. This one looks like it would be totally uneconomical to bring back to stock but it could possibly be made into a decent runner. Early Honda V4 parts are quite valuable.

- Mark

moparren · 10-19-2012, 12:12 PM

I've got a VF1000R project going. Gotta add on about getting the carbs off and on is a pain. Make sure the bike is well suported when you go to beat the carbs back into position.

But that sound...

BikePilot · 10-19-2012, 12:18 PM

Cool bike, way advanced for that vintage. Generally a pain to work on, generally very high quality build. Cams were known to wear, probably due to marginal oiling to the cams and maybe partially due to soft metal used to make the cam. Check the lobe heights.

YOUNZ · 10-19-2012, 12:29 PM

It required three cans of Sea Foam to clean my carbs that were not run in twenty years. But it worked.

10-15-2012, 12:50 PM	#1
danielcut ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Sulphur, LA Oddometer: 22	'86 Interceptor 750? I have the option to pick up an '86 Honda Interceptor 750. I'm still working on an '80 CB750 and wasn't really looking for another project but the price is pretty unbeatable. I'm basically looking for opinions on the bike. I don't know a ton about them. I've been scouring the net but there seems to be pretty limited info on them. Apparently they were fairly rare in the states in the 750 orientation. It's in fairly rough shape but I'm told it runs.

10-16-2012, 06:32 AM	#2
sanjoh Purveyor of Light Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Sandbox, FL Oddometer: 3,659	vfrworld.com awesome motor, nothing sounds like gear driven cams __________________ Model 60 LED 3600 lumens . . LED thread in Vendors Dualsport Fairing w LED...Dirt Ninja Build...TAT 08...

10-16-2012, 07:50 PM	#7
TUCKERS the famous james Joined: Dec 2005 Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA. Oddometer: 8,033	IIRC there was an issue with valve guides leaking and the motors smoking a lot, I guess you'll find out when you start it! __________________ I am not intimidated by the DMV James and Colleen Tucker. Real Cafe Racers drink tea. Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

10-17-2012, 12:16 PM	#8
motomike14 Thumper Crusader Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Florida Oddometer: 1,015	http://jalopnik.com/5952274/how-to-g...eville-for-300 __________________ "Living just to keep going, goin' just to be sane." - The Black Keys I prefer kick starters, air-cooling, and carburetors over anything.

10-19-2012, 11:00 AM	#10
H96669 A proud pragmatist. Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C. Oddometer: 2,859	You can start just by looking at how hard it is to remove the carbs for a cleaning. I know had a Sabre....same design. My friend just picked up one of them Sabres.....I looked again just for old times sake. His runs but not that well. Will be sitting for a few days with carbs full of Seafoam just in case that works and we don't have to remove them. If you are crafty and like working in tight places with bent tools, you may be able to do as we did. Remove one of the bottom carb covers and inspect,left rear was the easier one. Then assess the amount of crap that may be in there. That one wasn't too bad....no grits so we are trying the Seafoam, just in case that works. I hope we get the "Miracle in that can". Phew....will know next Tuesday. __________________ Have tools, will travel!

10-16-2012, 12:49 PM	#4
danielcut ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Sulphur, LA Oddometer: 22	I picked it up this morning. It's pretty beat up but I only paid $100 for it and it had a title so I'm satisfied. It'll be a slow work in progress but hopefully I can make something decent out of it. Side note: Does anyone know why people feel they have to do that with a rattle can? I bought a '94 CBR600 with the same thing done to it. How hard is it to just mask something off?

10-16-2012, 06:00 PM	#5
dentvet Studly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2008 Location: hunt country virginia Oddometer: 982	$100 well spent. Are you sure its a 750? I think the 750 had gold calipers or something. The 700 was more common, i had a couple, first a RWB 700 then a pearl white 700. Nice steady wail as they climb in the RPMs. I bought the first one wrecked and the guy selling it swore that you could balance a nickel on its edge on the engine case as you revved it to the moon. Maybe an official honda promo/propaganda? Funny the things you remember sometimes. I still have the matching Freddie Spencer Aria helmet, thinks its still any good?

10-18-2012, 10:13 AM	#9
danielcut ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Sulphur, LA Oddometer: 22	Confirmed on the VIN plate that it is in fact a 750. I've put off starting work on it for now because we will be moving soon and I'd rather move the full bike than a frame and boxes of parts. That and I'm not even sure where to start...

10-19-2012, 12:01 PM	#12
markjenn Beastly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2003 Location: Swellvue, WA Oddometer: 9,698	I've worked on a lot of V4 Hondas and if the bike is in as rough a shape as it looks, your chances of getting the carbs to work acceptably without removing them is essentially zero. They're difficult to remove and more difficult to put back on but you probably need to bite the bullet and do the deed. The keys to getting them back on without too much cussing: + get the rubber boots as pliable as you possibly can by soaking in very hot water and/or use new ones + leave the hose clamps off all-together if you have to - even loosened, then can add stiffness to the boots that make it more difficult to seat the carbs; its tough to fish them in after the carbs are seated, but it can be done + don't be afraid to use considerable force As I recall, it works best to first seat the front boots, then the back. This is a very cool bike, but make an overall assessment of what is likely to need replacement to make it acceptable to you before you sink too much money into it. If too far gone, it is uneconomical to bring a bike like this back and it is better to punt and disassemble/sell for parts. This one looks like it would be totally uneconomical to bring back to stock but it could possibly be made into a decent runner. Early Honda V4 parts are quite valuable. - Mark markjenn screwed with this post 10-19-2012 at 01:01 PM

10-19-2012, 12:12 PM	#13
moparren Adventurer Joined: Apr 2009 Location: Tucson AZ Oddometer: 62	I've got a VF1000R project going. Gotta add on about getting the carbs off and on is a pain. Make sure the bike is well suported when you go to beat the carbs back into position. But that sound... __________________ I like to pretend I'm a writer! http://davidsreynolds.weebly.com/index.html

10-19-2012, 12:18 PM	#14
BikePilot Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Tampa Oddometer: 10,901	Cool bike, way advanced for that vintage. Generally a pain to work on, generally very high quality build. Cams were known to wear, probably due to marginal oiling to the cams and maybe partially due to soft metal used to make the cam. Check the lobe heights. __________________ '09 Buell XB12XT, TL1000S, H1F, M620, CR250R, DR250SE, XR650R, Cota 315R Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038 Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703

10-19-2012, 12:29 PM	#15
YOUNZ Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2011 Location: Around Pittsburgh Oddometer: 284	It required three cans of Sea Foam to clean my carbs that were not run in twenty years. But it worked.

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