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Old 10-16-2012, 04:02 AM   #70141
mud390
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Location: Japan
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Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:08 AM   #70142
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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i had a problem with the small copper spring inside the starter switch. it managed to overheat with too much current somehow, lost its spring and no longer made contact with the other little copper pieces in there. took a while to work that one out on the boggy hole track
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:57 AM   #70143
greer
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Mine begins exactly as yours does, with a total of 17 digits.

Sarah


Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:50 AM   #70144
TDY
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
My VIN also starts with the same 8 characters as yours. My bike is a 2001 bought in Canada.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:29 AM   #70145
Feyala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Good work! I suspected it would be one of the several cut outs mentioned. (clutch switch, kick stand or kill button).

WD40 works wonders on these issues. Many times just a good flush with WD will chase out water and allow current to flow.

The other thing that can happen if you let the bike sit in rain too long is the starter can flood out, rust up and get nasty.
Over time if it gets wet a lot it will corrode inside. Pull it apart and scour it well, re-grease and put back together. May need new brushes but should be OK.

Sounds like a nice Bike Cover should be on your X mas list.
Especially as the starter wasn't getting power and we'd recently molested the kickstand switch, that was my first thought too.

Wd40 may have worked, will try that next time.

I also thought the starter may have died... it has recently been making that squealing "crowing" noise when cold out, but I read that this is due to low grease on one part and not terribly abnormal. It is somewhat reassuring that if it does get corroded and nasty it is something I can probably fix.

Would like a bike cover, but they all seem way too bulky to carry with me, I have too much crap as it is! . My solution is to go south for the winter, where there's less rain...

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i had a problem with the small copper spring inside the starter switch. it managed to overheat with too much current somehow, lost its spring and no longer made contact with the other little copper pieces in there. took a while to work that one out on the boggy hole track
All of the contacts (including that spring) were very tarnished on mine, and one of the solder points looked shoddy. A time out in a shot glass of vinegar fixed the tarnish.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:42 AM   #70146
oktulsa17
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
How many miles are there on the carb? What monkeying has been done?

Regards,

Derek
Not sure what has been done previously, this is just an uneducated guess on my part. I think I'm the 3rd owner on this bike. I could take it to a shop, but I'd like to do this work myself. I'll just do some searches and see what I can learn.

But in general what adjustments should be made when going to altitude? Move a clip up or down on the needle Or ????
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:16 AM   #70147
holckster
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Lodi, Ca
Oddometer: 803
Quote:
Originally Posted by oktulsa17 View Post
This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM.

It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude.
My 08 acted in a similar manner, no power, sputtering, spewed black smoke when reved (semed like choke was on, but it wasn't)
Problem was lack of air to carb due to a strap that I passed under the seat to hang storage bags in front of the Wolfman bags collapsing the rubber snorkel.
Removed rubber snorkel and repositioned strap, cleaned air filter (was not excessivly dirty) ,and 100% perfect.
BTW, stock carb with no mods.
Maybe get a stock carb from someone who has switched and start over.
Good Luck
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #70148
Ren20
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This is kind of embarrassing, I didn't know my bike has a choke. I hope I didn't leave the choke on for my first 90miles ride.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:05 AM   #70149
Krusty ...
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Location: Richardson, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
This is kind of embarrassing, I didn't know my bike has a choke. I hope I didn't leave the choke on for my first 90miles ride.
Generally speaking, I doubt if an hour and a half would hurt anything other than fuel mileage. Are you sure it was ever on? In warm weather, you hardly need to choke to get them started.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:22 AM   #70150
Fire Escape
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Location: Epsom, NH
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serial number

Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?

My 2006 serial number Begins


JS1SP............ 17 digits you should be fine.


Bruce
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:24 AM   #70151
Ren20
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The bike started up fine. It was around 55 to 60 degrees. My last bike was EFI so I am kind of spoiled.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:46 AM   #70152
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oktulsa17 View Post
This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM.

It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oktulsa17 View Post
Not sure what has been done previously, this is just an uneducated guess on my part. I think I'm the 3rd owner on this bike. I could take it to a shop, but I'd like to do this work myself. I'll just do some searches and see what I can learn.

But in general what adjustments should be made when going to altitude? Move a clip up or down on the needle Or ????
Jet kits are designed to work with an open airbox, if your snorkle is still in place (rubber tube on top of airbox), that's likely to be the problem.

Some aftermarket jet kits have been known to run rich at the suggested jet sizes. Since it's worse at higher altitudes, it's too rich. You can start by raising the needle clip one notch (dropping the needle). If this helps, try raising it another notch and test ride. You're going leaner so when rideability suffers you need to move the clip back down one (raising needle) to richen the mixture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
Me too.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:38 AM   #70153
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
This is kind of embarrassing, I didn't know my bike has a choke. I hope I didn't leave the choke on for my first 90miles ride.
Technically, BST40 carbs use a cold start enrichment circuit instead of a choke. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:46 AM   #70154
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oktulsa17 View Post
Not sure what has been done previously, this is just an uneducated guess on my part. I think I'm the 3rd owner on this bike. I could take it to a shop, but I'd like to do this work myself. I'll just do some searches and see what I can learn.

But in general what adjustments should be made when going to altitude? Move a clip up or down on the needle Or ????
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=56570.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:04 PM   #70155
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Jet kits are designed to work with an open airbox, if your snorkle is still in place (rubber tube on top of airbox), that's likely to be the problem.
In the case of the DJ kit, I think using the term "designed" is being overly kind. In the case of the FP kit, it will work just fine with the snorkel in place (obviously it would need to be jetted properly and the correct clip position selected, just like in any other instance).

Regards,

Derek
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