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Old 10-15-2012, 12:07 PM   #1
WitchKing OP
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I got spark! Once...

The last couple months I've been trying to get my 1976 Honda MT125 to spark. I has a new coil, new spark plugs, and I set the gap to factory spec. No spark. But then, I widened the gap, and it sparked once and I haven't been able make it spark again. The spark was blue.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:09 PM   #2
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It may be your cdi.

"eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth"
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Reino View Post
It may be your cdi.
Yes it could be, except for the fact that the bike is a old school coil, points, & condenser type ignition and it doesn't have a CDI. Been trying to help this guy on his other thread about trying to get this bike running but he's not answering questions.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:19 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
Yes it could be, except for the fact that the bike is a old school coil, points, & condenser type ignition and it doesn't have a CDI. Been trying to help this guy on his other thread about trying to get this bike running but he's not answering questions.
I was actually doubting my post, I was not actually sure if the bike had a cdi or not. Maybe someday he will respond, hopefully before the world ends .
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Reino View Post
I was actually doubting my post, I was not actually sure if the bike had a cdi or not. Maybe someday he will respond, hopefully before the world ends .
He responded in a so, so way, but if you look at his profile you'll see that he's 16 years old, so we need to cut the kid some slack for even trying on his own.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
He responded in a so, so way, but if you look at his profile you'll see that he's 16 years old, so we need to cut the kid some slack for even trying on his own.
Reminds me of myself when i first started making threads, o well he will start responding quickly when he finds the subscribe button.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
Yes it could be, except for the fact that the bike is a old school coil, points, & condenser type ignition and it doesn't have a CDI. Been trying to help this guy on his other thread about trying to get this bike running but he's not answering questions.
This isn't correct for a 1976 Suzuki GT250. It has points, condenser and CDI.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:21 PM   #8
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This isn't correct for a 1976 Suzuki GT250. It has points, condenser and CDI.
Perhaps that is true for a slowzuki but he has a HONDA for crying out loud, You could tell us what a 76 Ford pickup uses too and it would be about as much help.
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Strong Bad screwed with this post 10-19-2012 at 04:29 PM Reason: grumble grumble WTF suzuki grumble grumble
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
Perhaps that is true for a slowzuki but he has a HONDA for crying out loud, You could tell us what a 76 Ford pickup uses too and it would be about as much help.


made my day
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strong bad View Post
perhaps that is true for a slowzuki but he has a honda for crying out loud, you could tell us what a 76 ford pickup uses too and it would be about as much help.


lol
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:54 AM   #11
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Here. Read and follow these instructions. BTW magnetos require clean and square point faces to deliver max spark.

Access to breaker point inspection and timing adjustment is provided by removing small cover on left side engine cover. Ignition should occur, breaker points just open, as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM-Breaker points should just open as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM). Timing ts adjusted by varying breaker point gap within recommended range of 0.3-0.4Mfyi.). Timing is adjusted by varying breaker point gap. Normal breaker point gap, with timing properly set, is 0.3-0.4MM (0.012-0.016 inch). Breaker points should be renewed if proper timing is not possible within range of 0.2-0.6MM (0.008-0.024 inch). Flywheel must be removed to renew breaker points. Flywheel retaining bolt should be torqued to 1.8-2.3 kg-m (13-16.6ft.-lbs.). High tension ignition coil and ignition
condenser are frame mounted beneath fuel tank. Alternator current is converted to DC by a silicon rectifier and used for battery charging and indicator lights. A 6V-6AH battery and a 10 A fuse are used in the system.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:19 PM   #12
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WitchKing View Post
The last couple months I've been trying to get my 1976 Honda MT125 to spark. I has a new coil, new spark plugs, and I set the gap to factory spec. No spark. But then, I widened the gap, and it sparked once and I haven't been able make it spark again. The spark was blue.
i wonder what would happen if you changed the condenser. hmm........................
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherguy View Post
Here. Read and follow these instructions. BTW magnetos require clean and square point faces to deliver max spark.

Access to breaker point inspection and timing adjustment is provided by removing small cover on left side engine cover. Ignition should occur, breaker points just open, as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM-Breaker points should just open as "F" mark on flywheel aligns with timing mark (TM). Timing ts adjusted by varying breaker point gap within recommended range of 0.3-0.4Mfyi.). Timing is adjusted by varying breaker point gap. Normal breaker point gap, with timing properly set, is 0.3-0.4MM (0.012-0.016 inch). Breaker points should be renewed if proper timing is not possible within range of 0.2-0.6MM (0.008-0.024 inch). Flywheel must be removed to renew breaker points. Flywheel retaining bolt should be torqued to 1.8-2.3 kg-m (13-16.6ft.-lbs.). High tension ignition coil and ignition
condenser are frame mounted beneath fuel tank. Alternator current is converted to DC by a silicon rectifier and used for battery charging and indicator lights. A 6V-6AH battery and a 10 A fuse are used in the system.
First of all

Question 1. How important is it that the flywheel is properly torqued? I don't mind torqueing(?) it, but would that prevent spark?
Question 2. If the rectifier is bad, would that prevent spark? And where is it?
Question 3. I have been adjusting breaker gap by loosening the screw on the points, and gently tapping the assembly in the desired direction, is that right?
Question 4. That description pretty much covers the whole ignition system right?
I apologize for the newbishness, it's a common symptom of being a newb.
Question 5. I see the "F," but no "TM." There is a pointy part poking out about 1/4 inch from the wall and is about in the right spot, might that be it?
Question 6. I've saved the newbiest of all for last. The points gap (.012-.016 inches) is the minimum or the maximum value? Should the points ever actually touch?
Newb,[greek] (-ie) (noun):one who is new, green, or inexperienced
Synonyms: Me, greenhorn, noob, newbie,
Antonyms: guru, expert, the rest of y'all.
eg.The newb proclaimed proudly that he switched his ignition coil from his 76 Ford F150 onto his 76 Honda MT125.
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WitchKing screwed with this post 10-25-2012 at 07:57 PM
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:02 AM   #14
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WitchKing View Post
First of all

Question 1. How important is it that the flywheel is properly torqued? I don't mind torqueing(?) it, but would that prevent spark?
Question 2. If the rectifier is bad, would that prevent spark? And where is it?
Question 3. I have been adjusting breaker gap by loosening the screw on the points, and gently tapping the assembly in the desired direction, is that right?
Question 4. That description pretty much covers the whole ignition system right?
I apologize for the newbishness, it's a common symptom of being a newb.
Question 5. I see the "F," but no "TM." There is a pointy part poking out about 1/4 inch from the wall and is about in the right spot, might that be it?
Question 6. I've saved the newbiest of all for last. The points gap (.012-.016 inches) is the minimum or the maximum value? Should the points ever actually touch?
Newb,[greek] (-ie) (noun):one who is new, green, or inexperienced
Synonyms: Me, greenhorn, noob, newbie,
Antonyms: guru, expert, the rest of y'all.
eg.The newb proclaimed proudly that he switched his ignition coil from his 76 Ford F150 onto his 76 Honda MT125.
1 if flywheel is not properly torqued it could spin loose/destroy keyway and potentially crank. as long as it's tight and located opn the keyway it will not effect spark, but yes, it should be properly torqued.
2. rectifier will not effect spark
3. the points should have a slot for a screwdriver to gently nudge them wider or closer.
4. kill switch, points, stator plate, charge coil, flywheel, points, condenser, ignition coil, sparkplug wire/end cap/sparkplug is the entire ignition system.
5. dunno haven't even looked to see what kinda bike we are talking about.
6. the value is the range of maximum opening - the maximum they should seperate is between .012 and .016. YES, the points need to touch at some point in the rotation. they need to open and close 1 time total during each rotation.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:24 AM   #15
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Thanks, that's very helpful.
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