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Old 10-17-2012, 04:07 PM   #70171
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank

Yes! I installed a rocker switch so I could turn off the headlight to conserve power when running my electric vest and heated grips. My high beam works as it always does but if my added switch is off then there is no low headlight. If I turn my added switch on the the stock headlight switch and light works as usual, both high and low.
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barko1 screwed with this post 10-17-2012 at 04:43 PM
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:47 PM   #70172
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
Yes, that's how my headlight is wired. I found the correct wires up in headlight Nacelle ... leave the HI/LO beam switch alone.

I originally ran the high beam wire through a separate switch I mounted in dash. In high beam position I could turn headlight light ON/OFF using my added switch. In low beam, light operates normally, switch has no affect.

When I added a single filament 35W HID I no longer had a high beam light, so now, high beam position is OFF, low beam is HID light. Wiring did not change other than to by-pass former ON/OFF switch, which is no longer needed with this set up.

Clear as mud, right?

The wires you want I think are yellow and red. (??) Trace them back from bulb and you can figure out where to cut and where to run your switch (if desired). I found this easier than trying to fiddle the delicate HI/LO switch on the handlebar.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:18 PM   #70173
dman
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just cleaning up some of the older parts on this bike, I've noticed that my turn signal switch has been very...sticky...for lack of a better word, and sometimes requires multiple strong presses to actually disengage the signals. At this point, it's mostly just irritating, but getting it moving smoothly again would go a long way towards helping the way this bike feels. Is there a particular kind of lubricant that I should use to grease it up if I took it apart, or is there maybe a relatively inexpensive place to order a brand new set of switch gear for my bike?
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #70174
DockingPilot
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Thanks fellas,
did it, easy-peasy.
If I'm riding on roads with cars I always have my hi beam on (modulated), never the low. So the low for me is kinda useless. Even at night because it just don't put out enough on either quite frankly. And I hardy ride at night. So to run my Gerbing jacket and gloves I can now just easily switch it on or off depending on the situation and what my 478c is reading for voltage.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:33 PM   #70175
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
nice catch. $8 more but it's 160cca vrs 120 on the Deka.
bike has to start really strong.
deka is us produced vrs china for the motobatt, but the chinese can produce quality if instructed to. not as many reviews of the motobatt vrs the deka (aka big crank and a bunch of other relabels). i'm on 3yrs with my deka and it still starts strong. at these prices, when the battery gets questionable after 4yrs i just pop for a new one.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:06 PM   #70176
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You want to go back to stock?

What is the jetting it's running at the moment?

Should be a 145 main and 3rd or 4th from top clip on the needle.

I loved my TwinAir, drilled pipe, ProCycle jet kit and cut airbox.

I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:57 PM   #70177
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:33 AM   #70178
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
Does the problem get worse or better as the engine warms up?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:33 AM   #70179
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
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Now that the weather is getting cooler, I have a question about the oil cooler. My commute to work is short, about 10 mins). Today it was around 45*F and the oil temp barely got to 110*F as per my vapor. That includes a 2 minute warm up prior to riding.

Should I cover my oil cooler for these short rides so that the oil can get to a better operating temp?
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:45 AM   #70180
Zapp22
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Tejas Hill Country
Oddometer: 13,676
Question Transmission Rebuilders: a question

If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:59 AM   #70181
Zapp22
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i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:04 AM   #70182
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....
This is why Derek is a life saver.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:05 AM   #70183
P-P
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings

I use Silicone Spray - more dielectric and lasts quite well.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:58 AM   #70184
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf


Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf

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Old 10-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #70185
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf
That's a lot of good information. You could put it in Krusty's DR Index.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

While you're doing that, you could include your earlier info about the clear turn signal lenses with amber bulbs. One of the first mods I did to my DR was to replace the turn sigs with some that have clear lenses/amber bulbs. Problem is they're brittle, break easily, and are no longer available.
Thanks for the good stuff.
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