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Old 10-17-2012, 01:23 PM   #70186
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Antigravity batteries are the new hotness. Lot more CCA then the Shorai, better warranty and made in the US instead of China. Of course they're more expensive as well $179 for the 98 + DR's
+1 there is a couple threads on here about Shorai and Antigravity and Antigravity did much better in the tests people were doing.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:53 PM   #70187
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
That would work if you snipped and capped the low beam wire at the headlight socket, but there is a much better way to add headlight switching and retain both beams by adding a relay and two diodes, under $10, works great...see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506789
I wired a Ducati up that way and posted some additional info that might be helpful at http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=32045 (the wire colors shown below are for Ducati, Suzuki colors different (HB is yellow IIRC) but otherwise wired the same)


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Old 10-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #70188
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank

Yes! I installed a rocker switch so I could turn off the headlight to conserve power when running my electric vest and heated grips. My high beam works as it always does but if my added switch is off then there is no low headlight. If I turn my added switch on the the stock headlight switch and light works as usual, both high and low.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:47 PM   #70189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
Yes, that's how my headlight is wired. I found the correct wires up in headlight Nacelle ... leave the HI/LO beam switch alone.

I originally ran the high beam wire through a separate switch I mounted in dash. In high beam position I could turn headlight light ON/OFF using my added switch. In low beam, light operates normally, switch has no affect.

When I added a single filament 35W HID I no longer had a high beam light, so now, high beam position is OFF, low beam is HID light. Wiring did not change other than to by-pass former ON/OFF switch, which is no longer needed with this set up.

Clear as mud, right?

The wires you want I think are yellow and red. (??) Trace them back from bulb and you can figure out where to cut and where to run your switch (if desired). I found this easier than trying to fiddle the delicate HI/LO switch on the handlebar.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:18 PM   #70190
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just cleaning up some of the older parts on this bike, I've noticed that my turn signal switch has been very...sticky...for lack of a better word, and sometimes requires multiple strong presses to actually disengage the signals. At this point, it's mostly just irritating, but getting it moving smoothly again would go a long way towards helping the way this bike feels. Is there a particular kind of lubricant that I should use to grease it up if I took it apart, or is there maybe a relatively inexpensive place to order a brand new set of switch gear for my bike?
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:23 PM   #70191
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Thanks fellas,
did it, easy-peasy.
If I'm riding on roads with cars I always have my hi beam on (modulated), never the low. So the low for me is kinda useless. Even at night because it just don't put out enough on either quite frankly. And I hardy ride at night. So to run my Gerbing jacket and gloves I can now just easily switch it on or off depending on the situation and what my 478c is reading for voltage.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:33 PM   #70192
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
nice catch. $8 more but it's 160cca vrs 120 on the Deka.
bike has to start really strong.
deka is us produced vrs china for the motobatt, but the chinese can produce quality if instructed to. not as many reviews of the motobatt vrs the deka (aka big crank and a bunch of other relabels). i'm on 3yrs with my deka and it still starts strong. at these prices, when the battery gets questionable after 4yrs i just pop for a new one.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:06 PM   #70193
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You want to go back to stock?

What is the jetting it's running at the moment?

Should be a 145 main and 3rd or 4th from top clip on the needle.

I loved my TwinAir, drilled pipe, ProCycle jet kit and cut airbox.

I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:57 PM   #70194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:33 PM   #70195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
Does the problem get worse or better as the engine warms up?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:33 AM   #70196
planemanx15
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Now that the weather is getting cooler, I have a question about the oil cooler. My commute to work is short, about 10 mins). Today it was around 45*F and the oil temp barely got to 110*F as per my vapor. That includes a 2 minute warm up prior to riding.

Should I cover my oil cooler for these short rides so that the oil can get to a better operating temp?
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:45 AM   #70197
Zapp22
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Question Transmission Rebuilders: a question

If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:59 AM   #70198
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i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:04 AM   #70199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....
This is why Derek is a life saver.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:05 AM   #70200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings

I use Silicone Spray - more dielectric and lasts quite well.
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